I have a window that I used dap 33 to set the glass, and it's been sitting
in my basement for two weeks. I checked it yesterday, and it was still
pretty soft though it had seemed to skin over a bit. My basement is
unheated, so it's pretty cool down there.

Question: Should the putty be hard to the touch before I paint it? It is so
soft right now that I think the paint brush would damage the surface.

In article 31, Zootal wrote:
I have a window that I used dap 33 to set the glass, and it's been sitting
in my basement for two weeks. I checked it yesterday, and it was still
pretty soft though it had seemed to skin over a bit. My basement is
unheated, so it's pretty cool down there.

DAP 33 is perhaps the worst window glazing compound I've ever used. It seems
to take forever to skin over and get firm -- and cold temperatures make it
actually *be* forever instead of just seeming like it.

Question: Should the putty be hard to the touch before I paint it?

Firm, at least. Doesn't need to be hard, but it ought to have the consistency
of a medium cheese before you paint it:
Brie -- definitely too soft
Monterey jack -- probably too soft
mozzarella -- a bit on the soft side, but probably ok
Colby -- just about perfect
cheddar -- harder than necessary


It is so
soft right now that I think the paint brush would damage the surface.

That certainly can happen if you don't wait for it to get firm.

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
I have a window that I used dap 33 to set the glass, and it's been
sitting in my basement for two weeks. I checked it yesterday, and it
was still pretty soft though it had seemed to skin over a bit. My
basement is unheated, so it's pretty cool down there.

DAP 33 is perhaps the worst window glazing compound I've ever used. It
seems to take forever to skin over and get firm -- and cold
temperatures make it actually *be* forever instead of just seeming
like it.

Question: Should the putty be hard to the touch before I paint it?

Firm, at least. Doesn't need to be hard, but it ought to have the
consistency of a medium cheese before you paint it:
Brie -- definitely too soft
Monterey jack -- probably too soft
mozzarella -- a bit on the soft side, but probably ok
Colby -- just about perfect
cheddar -- harder than necessary


It is so
soft right now that I think the paint brush would damage the surface.

That certainly can happen if you don't wait for it to get firm.


Thanks - exactly what I needed to know

I know some people like DAP. For those that don't, what do you use, what do
you recommend?

On Jan 15, 4:27*pm, Zootal wrote:
In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
I have a window that I used dap 33 to set the glass, and it's been
sitting in my basement for two weeks. I checked it yesterday, and it
was still pretty soft though it had seemed to skin over a bit. My
basement is unheated, so it's pretty cool down there.

DAP 33 is perhaps the worst window glazing compound I've ever used. It
seems to take forever to skin over and get firm -- and cold
temperatures make it actually *be* forever instead of just seeming
like it.

Question: Should the putty be hard to the touch before I paint it?

Firm, at least. Doesn't need to be hard, but it ought to have the
consistency of a medium cheese before you paint it:
Brie -- definitely too soft
Monterey jack -- probably too soft
mozzarella -- a bit on the soft side, but probably ok
Colby -- just about perfect
cheddar -- harder than necessary

It is so
soft right now that I think the paint brush would damage the surface.

That certainly can happen if you don't wait for it to get firm.

Thanks - exactly what I needed to know

I know some people like DAP. For those that don't, what do you use, what do
you recommend?

I know of no "normal" replacement for DAP33.

And as many have commented....it takes a LONG time to skin / harden
to the point where it can be painted. I no longer use the stuff but
when I did, exposure to direct sunlight during the day & brought
inside at night if cold / wet weather (SoCal cold not real cold)

I now use a linseed oil glazing compound & linseed oil paint (just oil
& pigments) ...no need to wait, just glaze & paint.

cheers
Bob

In article 31, Zootal wrote:

I know some people like DAP. For those that don't, what do you use, what do
you recommend?

The best I've ever used was the house brand from S&T Hardware, but I haven't
seen an S&T here in Indiana for more than 20 years. Ace Hardware's house brand
is pretty good, though. Ideally, the stuff should be really stiff the moment
you open the can -- about like a really hard cheese. You work it around in
your hands to warm it and soften it, until the consistency is about like
modeling clay (remember playing with that when you were a kid? that's the
consistency you want) then roll it between your hands to make a snake (just
like you did when you played with clay and wanted to scare your little
sister). Press the snake into the window frame and smooth it with a putty
knife while it's still warm and pliable. As it cools, it stiffens, and should
skin over within a few hours.

(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:

I know some people like DAP. For those that don't, what do you use,
what do you recommend?

The best I've ever used was the house brand from S&T Hardware, but I
haven't seen an S&T here in Indiana for more than 20 years. Ace
Hardware's house brand is pretty good, though. Ideally, the stuff
should be really stiff the moment you open the can -- about like a
really hard cheese. You work it around in your hands to warm it and
soften it, until the consistency is about like modeling clay (remember
playing with that when you were a kid? that's the consistency you
want) then roll it between your hands to make a snake (just like you
did when you played with clay and wanted to scare your little sister).
Press the snake into the window frame and smooth it with a putty knife
while it's still warm and pliable. As it cools, it stiffens, and
should skin over within a few hours.


I saw a bucket of their stuff when I was in the store last week. From the
description on the container, it sounded to me like the same as DAP,
including the one or two week drying time.

I have some acrylic stuff that can be painted in a day, but I haven't tried
it yet. I'm no expert on this - I've used DAP and know how to work with it.
If I botch it with something else I would have to remove it and start over
LOL. I have 12 panes to go....

On Jan 15, 5:07*pm, Zootal wrote:
I have a window that I used dap 33 to set the glass, and it's been sitting
in my basement for two weeks. I checked it yesterday, and it was still
pretty soft though it had seemed to skin over a bit. My basement is
unheated, so it's pretty cool down there.

Question: Should the putty be hard to the touch before I paint it? It is so
soft right now that I think the paint brush would damage the surface.

Cant you move the window to where its heated, a few days to weeks is
needed, you only need it skinned so the brush doesnt rip it up, and
use old fashioned Oil Primer.

Cant you move the window to where its heated, a few days to weeks is
needed, you only need it skinned so the brush doesnt rip it up, and
use old fashioned Oil Primer.


Actually, yes, I moved it into the front room where the wood stove is last
night so it could get some warmth