My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"badgolferman" wrote in
message ...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems
to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer
any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet
opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix
it. Any
ideas?

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

Bad diode is common cause. But you must know what you are doing because the
hi voltage in a capacitor is deadly and can still be there after the diode
has failed. WW

WW, 1/15/2010,8:57:08 PM, wrote:


"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any
self-help on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet
opening so finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

Bad diode is common cause. But you must know what you are doing
because the hi voltage in a capacitor is deadly and can still be
there after the diode has failed. WW

Considering it is over 10 years old and I have no drawings or parts
list I assume it is not worth the effort.

On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 17:38:17 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

When I wanted a wiring diagram from Amana, I had to beg the woman and
promise up and down that I knew what I was doing and wouldn't kill
myself. It's bad that everything else seems to work. It means the
problem is serious and probably beyond your or my skill.

On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 21:42:08 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

WW, 1/15/2010,8:57:08 PM, wrote:


"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any
self-help on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet
opening so finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

Bad diode is common cause. But you must know what you are doing
because the hi voltage in a capacitor is deadly and can still be
there after the diode has failed. WW

Considering it is over 10 years old and I have no drawings or parts
list I assume it is not worth the effort.

Probably not. When my Amana model 2 Radarrange broke, about 20 years
ago the parts woman suggested it was the microwave tube, about 250
dollars. When I called again, she (another she) suggested it was the
diodes, about 125 dollars. When I actually took the thing apart, the
insulation to the diodes was crumbling, and if I couldn't see arcing,
I knew there had been some. This was the second model ever made and
pretty old. I used some GE silicone to insulate it. I figured if
they make glass out of silicon, the GE silicone must have a high
dielectric value.

That worked for another 5 years and then the transformer went out.
Again they wanted 375 but said he would give me the wholesale price of
250, dollars, for a replacement transformer. I said to him, you know
I'm the last guy in America who's going to try to fix one of these?
You know you can buy a new one that's nicer for about 100? Sell it to
me for 50 so you can make a little money from your leftover parts.

He told me to write Iowa. I liked my prototype model, that looked
just like the ones in history books, so I did. I told them to save
6 for their museum and the family of the inventor and owners, to keep
theirs working, and sell the rest for what they could get. They wrote
back and said to call a number in Pennsylvania. I called and it was
like starting over again. He still wanted 250

On Jan 15, 10:29*pm, mm wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 21:42:08 -0500, "badgolferman"





wrote:
WW, 1/15/2010,8:57:08 PM, wrote:

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. *Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. *GE website does not offer any
self-help on microwave repair. *This microwave fits in the cabinet
opening so finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. *Any
ideas?

Bad diode is common cause. But you must know what you are doing
because the hi voltage in a capacitor is deadly and can still be
there after the diode has failed. WW

Considering it is over 10 years old and I have no drawings or parts
list I assume it is not worth the effort.

Probably not. *When my Amana model 2 Radarrange broke, about 20 years
ago the parts woman suggested it was the microwave tube, about 250
dollars. * When I called again, she (another she) suggested it was the
diodes, about 125 dollars. * When I actually took the thing apart, the
insulation to the diodes was crumbling, and if I couldn't see arcing,
I knew there had been some. *This was the second model ever made and
pretty old. * I used some GE silicone to insulate it. *I figured if
they make glass out of silicon, the GE silicone must have a high
dielectric value. *

That worked for another 5 years and then the transformer went out.
Again they wanted 375 but said he would give me the wholesale price of
250, dollars, for a replacement transformer. *I said to him, you know
I'm the last guy in America who's going to try to fix one of these?
You know you can buy a new one that's nicer for about 100? Sell it to
me for 50 so you can make a little money from your leftover parts.

He told me to write Iowa. * I liked my prototype model, that looked
just like the ones in history books, so I did. * *I told them to save
6 for their museum *and the family of the inventor and owners, to keep
theirs working, and sell the rest for what they could get. *They wrote
back and said to call a number in Pennsylvania. * I called and it was
like starting over again. *He still wanted 250- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

See: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_appfaq.html for good
information on uwaves. You can probably find a wiring diagram on the
inside of the metal uwave cover. Remove screws along the back and
bottom to get the cover off. Read the FAQ carefully about electrical
hazards. Then report here what you find and we can probably walk you
thru some fairly simple checks. Do you have a voltmeter?

On Jan 15, 5:38*pm, "badgolferman"
wrote:
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. *Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. *GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. *This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. *Any
ideas?

Maybe someone replaced the Magnetron with a Cryrotron.

Sorry couldnt resist a bad joke.

Dead oven can be caused by a lot of things. There are numerous saftey
circuit and interlocks. One of the first things a tech would do is
bypass all of this and see i fit will come up. Should only be done by
a qualified tech. The circuit is very simple consisting of a very
simple power supply connected to a Magnetron. Everything else just
turns the power supply off/on. This doesnt mean it is easy to
troubleshoot and it is very unforgiving of stupid mistakes the
consequences of may be death.


Jimmie

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

Could just be a fuse.
These fuses are not readily accessible, requiring removing the
cabinet/shell.
And, these fuses can be soldered in place. God forbid the end user is kept
in mind.
--
EA

Call GE to if if there is a secret recall on the unit . Mine stopped working
and it was repaired at no charge. Not sure what model it is .


"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

mm wrote:
I used some GE silicone to insulate it. I figured if
they make glass out of silicon, the GE silicone must have a high
dielectric value.

Uh... silicone is nowhere near the same thing as silicon, or was that a
joke?

badgolferman wrote the following:
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?

Take the measurements of height, width, and depth. I'm sure that you can
find a new microwave with the same or slightly smaller dimensions.
I had a to replace an old cabinet MW with one slightly smaller. I put an
oak frame around it to hide the gaps.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?0


"Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking" - what the heck else is there? A light? The
clock? My opinion is that if the oven doesn't cook, it really doesn't
matter what else does. Microwave ovens are generally not thought to be a
DYI kind of appliance. In today's world it probably could cost more to
repair than replace. Measure its size and head to Wal-Mart. They are bound
to have one almost exactly the same size.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:34:01 -0500, Mark wrote:
"Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking" - what the heck else is there? A light? The
clock? My opinion is that if the oven doesn't cook, it really doesn't
matter what else does. Microwave ovens are generally not thought to be a
DYI kind of appliance. In today's world it probably could cost more to
repair than replace. Measure its size and head to Wal-Mart. They are bound
to have one almost exactly the same size.

You think a chinese fly by night microwave is a good idea?

Mark wrote:

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?0


"Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking" - what the heck else is there? A light?
The clock? My opinion is that if the oven doesn't cook, it really
doesn't matter what else does. Microwave ovens are generally not thought
to be a DYI kind of appliance. In today's world it probably could cost
more to repair than replace. Measure its size and head to Wal-Mart. They
are bound to have one almost exactly the same size.
Hmmm,
They're so cheap these days. Even if it is repairable, I'd replace it if
I need it. Only thing any ome can check is fuse inside and door
interlock switches.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 10:15:44 -0500, Tony
wrote:

mm wrote:
I used some GE silicone to insulate it. I figured if
they make glass out of silicon, the GE silicone must have a high
dielectric value.

Uh... silicone is nowhere near the same thing as silicon, or was that a
joke?

It's what I thought at the time. I still don't know what the
relationship is.

But it worked. I've successfully used GE silicone** for the micowave,
and for a color tv flyback transformer where the voltage is about
30,000 iirc. (The second time I had to put on several layers. Each
layer would move the spark somewhere else, and the final one stopped
it.)


**(sealer or cement?)

Mark, 1/16/2010,5:34:01 PM, wrote:


"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any
self-help on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet
opening so finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?0


"Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking" - what the heck else is there? A
light? The clock? My opinion is that if the oven doesn't cook, it
really doesn't matter what else does. Microwave ovens are generally
not thought to be a DYI kind of appliance. In today's world it
probably could cost more to repair than replace. Measure its size
and head to Wal-Mart. They are bound to have one almost exactly the
same size.

Unfortunately finding the replacement size has NOT been easy. I have
been to WalMart, BestBuy, Home Depot, Lowe's. I bought one at Lowe's
today but the wife is unhappy with it. Opening is 24Wx11Hx13D. It is
the depth that is the problem. Somehow the old microwave was big
enough to accomodate a full-sized plate but the newer ones that fit
aren't.

mm wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 10:15:44 -0500, Tony
wrote:

mm wrote:
I used some GE silicone to insulate it. I figured if
they make glass out of silicon, the GE silicone must have a high
dielectric value.
Uh... silicone is nowhere near the same thing as silicon, or was that a
joke?

It's what I thought at the time. I still don't know what the
relationship is.

There is no relationship between the two except they are both found on
planet earth and they are spelled very similar. Silicone is man made
and silicon is natural (I think silicon is the second most common
element on earth). Seriously, it's about the same as comparing
toothpaste to granite.


But it worked. I've successfully used GE silicone** for the micowave,
and for a color tv flyback transformer where the voltage is about
30,000 iirc. (The second time I had to put on several layers. Each
layer would move the spark somewhere else, and the final one stopped
it.)

Glad it worked for you. I used it once on an old video game monitor to
fix a high voltage leak also, (although I gave the guy no warranty and
told him it was patched up, not fixed.) Careful with that high voltage,
it does go that high, actually higher. Get zapped enough times and you
may end up like me and you know you wouldn't like that! And the picture
tube holds a charge like a big capacitor. Some will stay charged up for
many months.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.

I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were helpful. The
transformer has continuity on both sides. The capacitor has changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale. The diode
has no reading either way. I assume the diode is bad. I will try
Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really nice if I can get this thing
to work. So far the wife has rejected two microwaves I bought.

badgolferman wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.

I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were helpful. The
transformer has continuity on both sides. The capacitor has changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale. The diode
has no reading either way. I assume the diode is bad. I will try
Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really nice if I can get this thing
to work. So far the wife has rejected two microwaves I bought.

Yup, sounds like the diode.

Wow, what a fussy wife.

SWMBO'd would not have a microwave 25 years ago. Anyways, one day she called
me at work to say that we would be having a second child. Without her
approval, I went out and bought a microwave. With the workload I had and
commuting, it made sure that I could at least have a warm meal! These days,
she uses the thing with no thought about previous concerns!

The first one cost about £400 in 1979. I bought the equivalent replacement
gizmo in about 2000 for just over £100! (Ignoring inflation).

On Jan 17, 9:50*pm, "badgolferman"
wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.

I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. *The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were helpful. *The
transformer has continuity on both sides. *The capacitor has changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale. *The diode
has no reading either way. *I assume the diode is bad. *

Maybe the diode, some of them will always show open on some meters.
Hope that fixes it though. I used to work on the things back in the
early 70's for about 5 years doing Amana warranty work and then off
and on until the late 80's. Dont think Rat Shack has the part. Let me
know if they do.

Jimmie

On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 12:18:08 -0500, Tony
wrote:

mm wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 10:15:44 -0500, Tony
wrote:

mm wrote:
I used some GE silicone to insulate it. I figured if
they make glass out of silicon, the GE silicone must have a high
dielectric value.
Uh... silicone is nowhere near the same thing as silicon, or was that a
joke?

It's what I thought at the time. I still don't know what the
relationship is.

There is no relationship between the two except they are both found on
planet earth and they are spelled very similar. Silicone is man made
and silicon is natural (I think silicon is the second most common
element on earth). Seriously, it's about the same as comparing
toothpaste to granite.

There's no silicon in silicone!!! I feel as if I caught my wife
cheating on me. Sure, she never said she woudln't, but I assumed it.

Whew, you had me scared, but silicon is an essential ingredient in
silicones. As well as H, C, and O, and other things like Cl at
times.

But it worked. I've successfully used GE silicone** for the micowave,
and for a color tv flyback transformer where the voltage is about
30,000 iirc. (The second time I had to put on several layers. Each
layer would move the spark somewhere else, and the final one stopped
it.)

Glad it worked for you. I used it once on an old video game monitor to
fix a high voltage leak also, (although I gave the guy no warranty and
told him it was patched up, not fixed.) Careful with that high voltage,
it does go that high, actually higher. Get zapped enough times and you
may end up like me and you know you wouldn't like that!

What are you like?

And the picture
tube holds a charge like a big capacitor. Some will stay charged up for
many months.

Yeah, I know about all that stuff, but thanks for the warning. If I
have to touch a CRT, I'm careful to discharge it first.

I did get what I think was a 2000 volt shock once. I don't know how.
I was being careful. I didn't fall over or anything. I think my other
hand was 3 feet away. Either fear or the shock itself sent me
falling 6 feet back and I dislocated my shoulder for the first time in
about 10 years.** Then it came out a lot, within a year there was a
4-day period that it came out 3 times. But I had already started
looking for a doctor, and a month later I had it fixed and it hasn't
been out in 32 years. I can't sleep on my belly with my arm over my
head anymore, though.

So I too am trying hard to avoid a shock. I don't touch anything
when I put the silicone on, let it dry for a day, and don't touch
anything when the tv is on.

**(I had dislocated it about 8 times prior to that, but then I got a
job that required hard work, and I guess my increased muscle tone held
my arm in place.)

JIMMIE wrote:
On Jan 17, 9:50 pm, "badgolferman"
wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.
I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were helpful. The
transformer has continuity on both sides. The capacitor has changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale. The diode
has no reading either way. I assume the diode is bad.

Maybe the diode, some of them will always show open on some meters.
Hope that fixes it though. I used to work on the things back in the
early 70's for about 5 years doing Amana warranty work and then off
and on until the late 80's. Dont think Rat Shack has the part. Let me
know if they do.

Yes, most high voltage diodes will not test well with your average multi
meter. I used my capacitor tester to check one once. Set it on leakage
test with the voltage set at 650VDC. Now if you have a little handheld
capacitor tester, that still isn't going to help. You need one that
puts out realistic test voltages.

In my limited experience with microwave ovens, (about 5 times) the
problem was always a bad micro switch or two.

Clot wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.
I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were helpful. The
transformer has continuity on both sides. The capacitor has changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale. The diode
has no reading either way. I assume the diode is bad. I will try
Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really nice if I can get this thing
to work. So far the wife has rejected two microwaves I bought.

Yup, sounds like the diode.

Wow, what a fussy wife.

SWMBO'd would not have a microwave 25 years ago. Anyways, one day she called
me at work to say that we would be having a second child. Without her
approval, I went out and bought a microwave. With the workload I had and
commuting, it made sure that I could at least have a warm meal! These days,
she uses the thing with no thought about previous concerns!

The first one cost about £400 in 1979. I bought the equivalent replacement
gizmo in about 2000 for just over £100! (Ignoring inflation).



You had me worried there for a second. I thought you were going to
microwave the second child. 8-)

TDD

Diodes SHOULD read about 2K ohms if checked one way, and
reverse the leads, and should read infinity. I dare say
that's likely the problem. The diodes I've seen have been
12.5 KV rated, so they might be more available at appliance
parts.
http://www.google.com/products?q=mic...de+&hl=en&aq=f

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"badgolferman" wrote in
message ...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.

I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and
diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were
helpful. The
transformer has continuity on both sides. The capacitor has
changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale.
The diode
has no reading either way. I assume the diode is bad. I
will try
Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really nice if I can get
this thing
to work. So far the wife has rejected two microwaves I
bought.

In article ,
"Mark" wrote:

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My GE microwave JEM31GA 002 does not heat. Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking. GE website does not offer any self-help
on microwave repair. This microwave fits in the cabinet opening so
finding a replacement won't be that easy.

I tried unplugging it for a few minutes but that didn't fix it. Any
ideas?0


"Everything seems to work
fine on it except for cooking" - what the heck else is there? A light? The
clock? My opinion is that if the oven doesn't cook, it really doesn't
matter what else does. Microwave ovens are generally not thought to be a
DYI kind of appliance. In today's world it probably could cost more to
repair than replace. Measure its size and head to Wal-Mart. They are bound
to have one almost exactly the same size.

What's DYI stand for? Do Yourself In?

In article ,
"badgolferman" wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.

I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were helpful. The
transformer has continuity on both sides. The capacitor has changing
resistance readings with the multimeter at highest scale. The diode
has no reading either way. I assume the diode is bad. I will try
Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really nice if I can get this thing
to work. So far the wife has rejected two microwaves I bought.

So if the troubleshooting flowchart is helpful, it should help you. I
used mine to isolate the problem to one of 3 TCOs (thermal cutoff,
functions like a thermal fuse but different form factor) in the unit.

Stormin Mormon, 1/18/2010,8:01:04 AM, wrote:

Diodes SHOULD read about 2K ohms if checked one way, and
reverse the leads, and should read infinity. I dare say
that's likely the problem. The diodes I've seen have been
12.5 KV rated, so they might be more available at appliance
parts.
http://www.google.com/products?q=mic...de+&hl=en&aq=f

Radio Shack does not have the part. No one has the part locally. GE
will sell it for $42. I am hesitant to purchase it because after I
went back and checked it again with power on this time I am only
getting 6.6 V at the main side of the transformer instead of 120 V.
Now I am not so sure about the diode, especially after some of the
other comments regarding a high voltage diode.

Sounds like you have skill at troubleshooting. Keep at it, I
have a good sense about this. You'll get it.

The couple times I replaced a bad high voltage diode. The
oven would HUM 60 cycles good and loud. But not heat.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"badgolferman" wrote in
message ...
Stormin Mormon, 1/18/2010,8:01:04 AM, wrote:

Diodes SHOULD read about 2K ohms if checked one way, and
reverse the leads, and should read infinity. I dare say
that's likely the problem. The diodes I've seen have been
12.5 KV rated, so they might be more available at
appliance
parts.

http://www.google.com/products?q=mic...de+&hl=en&aq=f

Radio Shack does not have the part. No one has the part
locally. GE
will sell it for $42. I am hesitant to purchase it because
after I
went back and checked it again with power on this time I am
only
getting 6.6 V at the main side of the transformer instead of
120 V.
Now I am not so sure about the diode, especially after some
of the
other comments regarding a high voltage diode.

Stormin Mormon, 1/18/2010,6:46:22 PM, wrote:

Sounds like you have skill at troubleshooting. Keep at it, I
have a good sense about this. You'll get it.

The couple times I replaced a bad high voltage diode. The
oven would HUM 60 cycles good and loud. But not heat.

Well, we finally broke down and ordered the GE Spacemaker II off the
web. It is the exact replacement model of what we have now and will
fit perfectly in the allotted space. There was no sense in ordering a
part, waiting 1-2 weeks for it and finding out it wasn't the problem.
This way everyone is happy except for my wallet!

The Daring Dufas wrote:
Clot wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.
I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were
helpful. The transformer has continuity on both sides. The
capacitor has changing resistance readings with the multimeter at
highest scale. The diode has no reading either way. I assume the
diode is bad. I will try Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really
nice if I can get this thing to work. So far the wife has rejected
two microwaves I bought.

Yup, sounds like the diode.

Wow, what a fussy wife.

SWMBO'd would not have a microwave 25 years ago. Anyways, one day
she called me at work to say that we would be having a second child.
Without her approval, I went out and bought a microwave. With the
workload I had and commuting, it made sure that I could at least
have a warm meal! These days, she uses the thing with no thought
about previous concerns! The first one cost about £400 in 1979. I bought
the equivalent
replacement gizmo in about 2000 for just over £100! (Ignoring
inflation).

You had me worried there for a second. I thought you were going to
microwave the second child. 8-)

Well there have been times!

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
Radio Shack does not have the part. No one has the part locally. GE
will sell it for $42. I am hesitant to purchase it because after I
went back and checked it again with power on this time I am only
getting 6.6 V at the main side of the transformer instead of 120 V.
Now I am not so sure about the diode, especially after some of the
other comments regarding a high voltage diode.



The $ 42 sure sounds high for a diode. They were on line from less than $ 5
to $ 15. I don't know about the quality of the under $ 100 microwaves, but
would get one of them before trying to repair a microwave. Seems that most
things under $ 500 are throw away now the way the parts cost to repair them.

I think the one you have may be in the $ 200 to $ 300 range as it seems to
be one that hangs under the counter. They do cost more and may be the only
kind you want. I think I have had 2 microwaves at the house in many years.
One was a Litton that the timer gave up and about that time my mother
passed away so I got the one she had. It is a GE. Not sure how old it was
when she had it. Both of them are large inside, not the sandwich heater
size.

"Clot" wrote in message
...
badgolferman wrote:
SWMBO'd would not have a microwave 25 years ago. Anyways, one day she
called me at work to say that we would be having a second child. Without
her approval, I went out and bought a microwave. With the workload I had
and commuting, it made sure that I could at least have a warm meal! These
days, she uses the thing with no thought about previous concerns!


Sounds like what my mother said. Mother was an excellent cook. She did not
want one. The dad got her one and she would not do without it before she
died.

Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Clot" wrote in message
...
badgolferman wrote:
SWMBO'd would not have a microwave 25 years ago. Anyways, one day she
called me at work to say that we would be having a second child.
Without her approval, I went out and bought a microwave. With the
workload I had and commuting, it made sure that I could at least
have a warm meal! These days, she uses the thing with no thought
about previous concerns!

Sounds like what my mother said. Mother was an excellent cook. She
did not want one. The dad got her one and she would not do without
it before she died.

Moving on a slightly different tack, a friend of mine used to ridicule me
for having a cell phone years ago. I had a busy career at the time involving
conversations with folk in various time zones.

One Christmas, his partner bought him a toy cell phone which really wound
him up!

Today when we meet up at the pub, he is the first to pull out the phone and
consult the Stock Market!

Clot wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Clot wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Safety switches, and the high voltage diode, come to mind.
I took it apart and checked the capacitor, transformer and diode. The
wiring diagram inside and troubleshooting flowchart were
helpful. The transformer has continuity on both sides. The
capacitor has changing resistance readings with the multimeter at
highest scale. The diode has no reading either way. I assume the
diode is bad. I will try Radio Shack tomorrow. It will be really
nice if I can get this thing to work. So far the wife has rejected
two microwaves I bought.
Yup, sounds like the diode.

Wow, what a fussy wife.

SWMBO'd would not have a microwave 25 years ago. Anyways, one day
she called me at work to say that we would be having a second child.
Without her approval, I went out and bought a microwave. With the
workload I had and commuting, it made sure that I could at least
have a warm meal! These days, she uses the thing with no thought
about previous concerns! The first one cost about £400 in 1979. I bought
the equivalent
replacement gizmo in about 2000 for just over £100! (Ignoring
inflation).
You had me worried there for a second. I thought you were going to
microwave the second child. 8-)

Well there have been times!



I have four brothers and four sisters. Mom went through ten pregnancies
in 20 years before Dad took her down and got her spayed. He said enough
of that! Imagine growing up in a literal litter of puppies. Pun
intended. We didn't have to worry about a microwave, being put on a spit
over hot coals was more of a threat.

TDD

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in
m:


"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
Radio Shack does not have the part. No one has the part locally. GE
will sell it for $42. I am hesitant to purchase it because after I
went back and checked it again with power on this time I am only
getting 6.6 V at the main side of the transformer instead of 120 V.

could be a bad overtemp monitor(thermal cutout) or "flame sensor".
both are in line with the transformer.

Now I am not so sure about the diode, especially after some of the
other comments regarding a high voltage diode.



The $ 42 sure sounds high for a diode. They were on line from less
than $ 5 to $ 15. I don't know about the quality of the under $ 100
microwaves, but would get one of them before trying to repair a
microwave. Seems that most things under $ 500 are throw away now the
way the parts cost to repair them.

the college students around here throw them away the end of every semester.
I suspect most are functioning,too.


I think the one you have may be in the $ 200 to $ 300 range as it
seems to be one that hangs under the counter. They do cost more and
may be the only kind you want. I think I have had 2 microwaves at
the house in many years. One was a Litton that the timer gave up and
about that time my mother passed away so I got the one she had. It
is a GE. Not sure how old it was when she had it. Both of them are
large inside, not the sandwich heater size.




About 8 years ago,my MW died,and I bought a new HV cap and HV diode for $25
from a local appliance repair store.
The HV cap had blown,I replaced the diode just in case,and it's been
working fine ever since. Sharp brand.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Diodes SHOULD read about 2K ohms if checked one way, and
reverse the leads, and should read infinity. I dare say
that's likely the problem. The diodes I've seen have been
12.5 KV rated, so they might be more available at appliance
parts.
http://www.google.com/products?q=mic...de+&hl=en&aq=f



Here's a way to test the HV diodes in a microwave. Don't kill yourself.
I'm not sure if 6 volts would work with a color TV HV diode since they
go up over 35,000 volts


http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Sounds like you have skill at troubleshooting. Keep at it, I
have a good sense about this. You'll get it.

The couple times I replaced a bad high voltage diode. The
oven would HUM 60 cycles good and loud. But not heat.

Maybe it just didn't know the words?

On Jan 18, 1:31*pm, "badgolferman"
wrote:
Stormin Mormon, 1/18/2010,8:01:04 AM, wrote:

Diodes SHOULD read about 2K ohms if checked one way, and
reverse the leads, and should read infinity. *I dare say
that's likely the problem. The diodes I've seen have been
12.5 KV rated, so they might be more available at appliance
parts.
* *http://www.google.com/products?q=mic...de+&hl=en&aq=f

Radio Shack does not have the part. *No one has the part locally. *GE
will sell it for $42. *I am hesitant to purchase it because after I
went back and checked it again with power on this time I am only
getting 6.6 V at the main side of the transformer instead of 120 V.
Now I am not so sure about the diode, especially after some of the
other comments regarding a high voltage diode.

The 6.6v is probably the filament winding for the magnetron. There is
another secondary for the high voltage, usually followed by some sort
of voltage double circuitry.

Naah, it had a bad cold that day.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Sounds like you have skill at troubleshooting. Keep at it,
I
have a good sense about this. You'll get it.

The couple times I replaced a bad high voltage diode. The
oven would HUM 60 cycles good and loud. But not heat.

Maybe it just didn't know the words?