Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
more electrical installation questions
I just realized while rewiring my upstairs that some of the existing,
original wiring apparently does not meet current NEC. An example: a switch box in the wall contains a toggle switch, a 14/3, and a 14/2. 5 conductors, 2 more for the yoke, and 1 for the clamps = 8 "conductors." A 2-3/4" switch box is only 14 in^3. If I repull and add a ground, that only makes the situation worse. Even in the case of a receptacle with two cables, it would seem that this is still not acceptable, even without a ground. I can only assume that this was not a violation when the house was built, as all of the original wiring appears to have been done in a proper, workmanlike manner. What do I do? Just repull and leave as is, or do I need to break all the boxes out where I have a situation like this and use a 3-1/2" deep box with plaster ears and Madison hangers? 'nother question. I need to replace a box in my bathroom for various reasons. Are there any limitations on what kind of box I can use in there? What about hanging from the rafters of an unfinished attic? (would like to have a lampholder up there and possibly a receptacle as well, so I don't need to keep using my construction lights and an extension cord when I need to be up there. Ironically, it is primarily for electrical work that I need to be there...) nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
more electrical installation questions
I just realized while rewiring my upstairs that some of the existing,
original wiring apparently does not meet current NEC. An example: a switch box in the wall contains a toggle switch, a 14/3, and a 14/2. 5 conductors, 2 more for the yoke, and 1 for the clamps = 8 "conductors." A 2-3/4" switch box is only 14 in^3. If I repull and add a ground, that only makes the situation worse. Even in the case of a receptacle with two cables, it would seem that this is still not acceptable, even without a ground. I can only assume that this was not a violation when the house was built, as all of the original wiring appears to have been done in a proper, workmanlike manner. What do I do? Just repull and leave as is, or do I need to break all the boxes out where I have a situation like this and use a 3-1/2" deep box with plaster ears and Madison hangers? 'nother question. I need to replace a box in my bathroom for various reasons. Are there any limitations on what kind of box I can use in there? What about hanging from the rafters of an unfinished attic? (would like to have a lampholder up there and possibly a receptacle as well, so I don't need to keep using my construction lights and an extension cord when I need to be up there. Ironically, it is primarily for electrical work that I need to be there...) *The short answer is that you will better off with the deeper box. The older codes did not require a deduction for wiring devices. If you are going to be adding wiring for the ceiling fans that you proposed in an earlier post then I suggest removing the one gang box and installing a two gang box. Removal of the one gang box can usually be done without doing too much damage to the existing wall, but you must go slow and be a little gentle. Sometimes prying with a big screwdriver is all you need to do. Other times a sawzall is needed. You can use a plastic two gang box or gang together two 3.5" metal gem boxes. In addition to the madison bars I usually drill a hole in the side of the gem box and shoot a #8 sheet metal screw into the wood. I do this with the plastic boxes as well. You can usually use whatever kind of box is acceptable anywhere else in a bathroom unless there is something in your local code that requires something specific. You can mount electrical boxes in your attic on the roof trusses or anything else that is solid and permanent. Just keep the light bulb away from direct contact with anything combustible. You can run the wiring on the surface of the roof trusses, but you cannot have wiring run along top of the ceiling joists unless you have a board running along side of it. You could also drill out the ceiling joists and run your wires through the holes. An outlet in the attic must be GFI protected. |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
more electrical installation questions
In ,
Nate Nagel typed: I just realized while rewiring my upstairs that some of the existing, original wiring apparently does not meet current NEC. An example: a switch box in the wall contains a toggle switch, a 14/3, and a 14/2. 5 conductors, 2 more for the yoke, and 1 for the clamps = 8 "conductors." A 2-3/4" switch box is only 14 in^3. If I repull and add a ground, that only makes the situation worse. Even in the case of a receptacle with two cables, it would seem that this is still not acceptable, even without a ground. I can only assume that this was not a violation when the house was built, as all of the original wiring appears to have been done in a proper, workmanlike manner. What do I do? Just repull and leave as is, or do I need to break all the boxes out where I have a situation like this and use a 3-1/2" deep box with plaster ears and Madison hangers? 'nother question. I need to replace a box in my bathroom for various reasons. Are there any limitations on what kind of box I can use in there? What about hanging from the rafters of an unfinished attic? (would like to have a lampholder up there and possibly a receptacle as well, so I don't need to keep using my construction lights and an extension cord when I need to be up there. Ironically, it is primarily for electrical work that I need to be there...) nate For definite answers, you really need to check with your Local Code Enforcement office. Local codes often have additional requirements they add to NEC requirements. Consider the NEC as the "minimum" requirements and your local code enforcement office as the last word. You don't even need to identify yourself when you call them unless you want to. I'd say that due to the type of work you're doing you really should have it inspected anyway. I've had them in quite a few times to approve changes I've made here in NY state and they don't inspect anything but the new work that you've done. Everything else is assumed to be grandfathered in and they don't go looking for it. The box with all the wires in it is almost certainly not to code of any kind. Deeper boxes might be fine, but you still need their advice since apparently all the wires thru the box are not related to what the switch controls? It's possible another box might be needed (and preferable anyway since your attic is open?). In the bathroom and attic, etc., simply be sure you use the approved boxes for your jurisdiction. Plastic, for instance, may not be allowed though it's OK per the NEC codes in some cases. And remember, GFCI's are required there too. Again, your local guys will give you the best answers. What they say is what their inspectors in theory look for. To get around the attic, get yourself a sheet or two of plywood and lay it across the rafters to work from; it's safer than knee-busting on the raftersg. Just be sure it's sufficiently thick to hold you on the span of the rafters. I often use 5/8" or whatever its actual final measurement turns out to be. Put two screws in each piece at opposite ends, just to keep it from jumping up if you lean on one end too hard, and twisting as you move about. But whether you have it inspected now or never, or after you get reported, get you local code enforcement's final reading on your plans. They're simple questions and they should be able to answer off the top of their heads. Twayne -- -- Cats land on their feet. but Toast lands PB side down; A cat glued to some jelly toast will hover in quantum indecision forever. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
more electrical installation questions
In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote: I just realized while rewiring my upstairs that some of the existing, original wiring apparently does not meet current NEC. An example: a switch box in the wall contains a toggle switch, a 14/3, and a 14/2. 5 conductors, 2 more for the yoke, and 1 for the clamps = 8 "conductors." A 2-3/4" switch box is only 14 in^3. If I repull and add a ground, that only makes the situation worse. Even in the case of a receptacle with two cables, it would seem that this is still not acceptable, even without a ground. I can only assume that this was not a violation when the house was built, as all of the original wiring appears to have been done in a proper, workmanlike manner. What do I do? Just repull and leave as is, or do I need to break all the boxes out where I have a situation like this and use a 3-1/2" deep box with plaster ears and Madison hangers? 'nother question. I need to replace a box in my bathroom for various reasons. Are there any limitations on what kind of box I can use in there? What about hanging from the rafters of an unfinished attic? (would like to have a lampholder up there and possibly a receptacle as well, so I don't need to keep using my construction lights and an extension cord when I need to be up there. Ironically, it is primarily for electrical work that I need to be there...) nate Serious question, Nate, why are you going to all this trouble to add grounds to your outlets? Seems like a non-issue to me. |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
more electrical installation questions
Smitty Two wrote:
In article , Nate Nagel wrote: I just realized while rewiring my upstairs that some of the existing, original wiring apparently does not meet current NEC. An example: a switch box in the wall contains a toggle switch, a 14/3, and a 14/2. 5 conductors, 2 more for the yoke, and 1 for the clamps = 8 "conductors." A 2-3/4" switch box is only 14 in^3. If I repull and add a ground, that only makes the situation worse. Even in the case of a receptacle with two cables, it would seem that this is still not acceptable, even without a ground. I can only assume that this was not a violation when the house was built, as all of the original wiring appears to have been done in a proper, workmanlike manner. What do I do? Just repull and leave as is, or do I need to break all the boxes out where I have a situation like this and use a 3-1/2" deep box with plaster ears and Madison hangers? 'nother question. I need to replace a box in my bathroom for various reasons. Are there any limitations on what kind of box I can use in there? What about hanging from the rafters of an unfinished attic? (would like to have a lampholder up there and possibly a receptacle as well, so I don't need to keep using my construction lights and an extension cord when I need to be up there. Ironically, it is primarily for electrical work that I need to be there...) nate Serious question, Nate, why are you going to all this trouble to add grounds to your outlets? Seems like a non-issue to me. The ones that were added in the renovations were already pulled with grounded Romex, seemed like it would be a simple matter to get it done. Of course as you can see that was something of a can of worms, but it's taken care of now. Now that I've gone that far it really wouldn't be that difficult to do the rest of them as well. A lot of the reason is that I like the look of the antique pressed brass cover plates, and it wouldn't be correct to use them on an ungrounded, non-GFCI circuit. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Electrical Installation Q | UK diy | |||
Electrical installation questions | UK diy | |||
Questions About Modern Electrical Installation | UK diy | |||
Electrical installation tubes | Home Repair | |||
New Electrical installation help | UK diy |