The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
flattening the folds with glue.)

From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

"Ray K" wrote in message
...
.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue the
poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

Any other suggestions?

Nothing is going to work well. Glue does not stick to poly. You may get it
to lay down with the heat of a hair dryer.

On Oct 5, 12:40*am, Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
flattening the folds with glue.)

*From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces..

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

I thought pergo sheeting came in a roll, a hair dryer as EP said
should work or electric paint stripper gun, just dont melt it.

Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
years, it still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable
springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to
be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern
is flattening the folds with glue.)

From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable
surfaces.

6-mil poly can actuall push up an interlocked wood floor? One great sage
said it best:

"I've been to one world fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the
stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones."

I'd suspect a dip in the concrete. Are you sure the base floor is (gulp)
level?

On Oct 5, 1:40*am, Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
flattening the folds with glue.)

*From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces..

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
question:

How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?

Are you sure the subfloor itself isn't the issue?

On Oct 5, 1:40�am, Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in a
roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long but a
more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the weight
of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is noticeably
raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to glue
the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to be
overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern is
flattening the folds with glue.)

�From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt mastic
with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing the poly
into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact cement
instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as acceptable surfaces..

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

must be a sub floor issue, whats the sub floor made of?

sounds like concrete the plastic sheet is generally a vapor barrier.

might still be moisture issues if its concrete

bob haller wrote:
On Oct 5, 1:40?am, Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged in
a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet long
but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting, it
didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness at
some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
noticeably raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have to
be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only concern
is flattening the folds with glue.)

?From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
the poly into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
acceptable surfaces.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

must be a sub floor issue, whats the sub floor made of?

sounds like concrete the plastic sheet is generally a vapor barrier.

might still be moisture issues if its concrete

Ah, good catch! The untaped (!) poly sheeting could let sufficient moisture
through to ever-so-slightly warp the boards.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 5, 1:40 am, Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged
in a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet
long but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting,
it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness
at some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
noticeably raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have
to be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only
concern is flattening the folds with glue.)

From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
the poly into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
acceptable surfaces.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
question:

How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?

6-mil is not 6 millimeters, the short form is 6mm. 6-mil is 6 thousands of
an inch, about two sheets of 20 pound (now that is another complicated
scale) paper thick.

On Oct 5, 4:38*pm, "EXT" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 5, 1:40 am, Ray K wrote:
The polyethylene sheeting I used under a Pergo floor was packaged
in a roll, but folded in thirds so the roll wouldn't be 12'feet
long but a more manageable 4' long. When I unfolded the sheeting,
it didn't lay
flat against the concrete where the folds had been. I thought the
weight of the Pergo would flatten the folds with time. After two
years, it
still hasn't, with the result that there is noticeable springiness
at some of the folds, and the edges of some of the flooring is
noticeably raised.

Now I have to pick up a portion of the flooring and figure how to
glue the poly to the on-grade concrete slab.

(Pergo says that seams between adjacent poly sheeting merely have
to be overlapped several inches, not taped or glued. So my only
concern is flattening the folds with glue.)

From googling around, I found suggestions for applying asphalt
mastic with a fine-toothed trowel, waiting two hours, then pressing
the poly into the mastic.

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive. Contact
cement instructions don't mention either concrete or poly as
acceptable surfaces.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Ray

I've never done a Pergo floor, so this might seems like a stupid
question:

How does a sheet of plastic that measures 6 millimeters in thickness
keep a wooden floor raised off the subfloor?

6-mil is not 6 millimeters, the short form is 6mm. 6-mil is 6 thousands of
an inch, about two sheets of 20 pound (now that is another complicated
scale) paper thick.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Other than the unit of measure error, I'm thinking it's still a valid
question.

about two sheets of 20 pound paper thick

Actually, it's about 1.5 sheets...

20 lb. Bond thickness =
50 lb. Regular Offset thickness =
70 lb. Smooth Offset thickness =
80 lb. Gloss Coated Book thickness =
20 lb. CB Carbonless thickness=
0.004"

What's so complicated about that scale? g

DerbyDad03 wrote in
:



20 lb. Bond thickness 50 lb. Regular Offset thickness 70 lb. Smooth
Offset thickness 80 lb. Gloss Coated Book thickness 20 lb. CB
Carbonless thickness0.004"

What's so complicated about that scale? g



It's pretty silly, yes. And "basis weight" is so steeped in time that no
one can change it now.

Each type of paper's descriptor weight is based on a particular "basis"
sheet size, that sheet size varying with the type of paper: 500 sheets of
that basis size would weigh that many pounds. That's what's called the
"basis weight".

I have a book at work that gives this in detail, including the basis sheet
size for each paper type (we use a lot of 100# offset in our business).

And since you can compress paper fibers quite a lot or just a little, the
overall thickness will be very close between the different weights. You
need to get up into boxboard before thickness (8pt, 10pt, 24pt, etc)
becomes the descriptor rather than basis weight.

To make things even more confusing, Europe and China use gsm (grams per
square meter) as the descriptor, so it can be hard to find exact
equivalents between theirs and ours unless you have a physical sample of
the gsm board.


--
Tegger

This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.

http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh

That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave
enough expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I
found it when I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it
when I originally laid the plank.

If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold
of the type I originally thought caused the problem.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Dummy Ray

"Ray K" wrote in message
...
This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.

http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh

That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave enough
expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I found it when
I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it when I originally
laid the plank.

If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold of
the type I originally thought caused the problem.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Dummy Ray


That makes more sense than the fold in the poly.

On Oct 5, 9:52*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Ray K" wrote in message

...





This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.

http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh

That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave enough
expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I found it when
I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it when I originally
laid the plank.

If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold of
the type I originally thought caused the problem.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Dummy Ray

That makes more sense than the fold in the poly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And a lesson to be learned by all of us.

hr(bob) wrote:
On Oct 5, 9:52 pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Ray K" wrote in message

...





This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.
http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh
That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave enough
expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I found it when
I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it when I originally
laid the plank.
If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold of
the type I originally thought caused the problem.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Dummy Ray
That makes more sense than the fold in the poly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And a lesson to be learned by all of us.

Chuckle. True story- 71 ford full size wagon, had a lump under the
carpet on the front passenger footwell. Lived with it for over a year
like that, finally one day I couldn't take it anymore. Removed enough
trim to roll the carpet back, and damned if there wasn't a brand new
ignition key assembly, with key, sitting there under the carpet. Some
sort of production line oopsie, I guess. Wonder what they did with the
next car down the line when they didn't have an ignition cylinder to
match the doors?

Moral of the story- you ain't the only one to look at something and not
see it, and lay floor covering over it.

--
aem sends...

Ray K wrote:
This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem
really turned out to be.

http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh

That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave
enough expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I
found it when I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it
when I originally laid the plank.

If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal
fold of the type I originally thought caused the problem.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Dummy Ray

Thanks for reporting the cause of the problem. Many of us can quit
scratching what hair we have left.

On Oct 5, 11:41�pm, aemeijers wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:
On Oct 5, 9:52 pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Ray K" wrote in message

...

This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.
http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh
That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave enough
expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I found it when
I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it when I originally
laid the plank.
If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold of
the type I originally thought caused the problem.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Dummy Ray
That makes more sense than the fold in the poly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And a lesson to be learned by all of us.

Chuckle. True story- 71 ford full size wagon, had a lump under the
carpet on the front passenger footwell. Lived with it for over a year
like that, finally one day I couldn't take it anymore. Removed enough
trim to roll the carpet back, and damned if there wasn't a brand new
ignition key assembly, with key, sitting there under the carpet. Some
sort of production line oopsie, I guess. Wonder what they did with the
next car down the line when they didn't have an ignition cylinder to
match the doors?

Moral of the story- you ain't the only one to look at something and not
see it, and lay floor covering over it.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

had noise in trunk, going around bends.

finally traced to wrench in gas tank,

1968 mailbu

On Tue, 6 Oct 2009 05:16:50 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Oct 5, 11:41?pm, aemeijers wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:
On Oct 5, 9:52 pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Ray K" wrote in message

...

This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.
http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh
That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave enough
expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I found it when
I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it when I originally
laid the plank.
If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold of
the type I originally thought caused the problem.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Dummy Ray
That makes more sense than the fold in the poly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And a lesson to be learned by all of us.

Chuckle. True story- 71 ford full size wagon, had a lump under the
carpet on the front passenger footwell. Lived with it for over a year
like that, finally one day I couldn't take it anymore. Removed enough
trim to roll the carpet back, and damned if there wasn't a brand new
ignition key assembly, with key, sitting there under the carpet. Some
sort of production line oopsie, I guess. Wonder what they did with the
next car down the line when they didn't have an ignition cylinder to
match the doors?

Moral of the story- you ain't the only one to look at something and not
see it, and lay floor covering over it.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

had noise in trunk, going around bends.

finally traced to wrench in gas tank,

1968 mailbu

1972 Ambassador - noise in rear parcel shelf area - rolling on turns -
rattle on bumps. A few trim screwa in a "box section" ov the bodywork
- solved with a Shutz gun of accoustic undercoating (rubberized tar) -
shot a layer into the chanel and the noise went away on the next left
hand turn.

Same problem and solution on a 76 Dodge? - ball bearings inside the
frame section under the floor. Squirt. Brake. Quiet.

Ray K wrote:
This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.

http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh

That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave
enough expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I
found it when I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it
when I originally laid the plank.

If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal fold
of the type I originally thought caused the problem.

Thanks to all for your comments.

Dummy Ray

Don't feel bad. The same thing happened to me, and there were three
other people helping me.

I just found this thread. Sorry I did not see it earlier.

Kate

aemeijers wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:
On Oct 5, 9:52 pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Ray K" wrote in message

...





This is embarrassingly stupid. Here's a look at what the problem really
turned out to be.
http://tinyurl.com/yab9hfh
That black thing, 1/4" thick at one end, is one of the spacers that's
supposed to go at the base of the walls, to guide you so you leave
enough
expansion space around the perimeter. It's in the position I found
it when
I lifted the plank. I can't believe I missed seeing it when I
originally
laid the plank.
If you look closely at the top right corner, you'll see a diagonal
fold of
the type I originally thought caused the problem.
Thanks to all for your comments.
Dummy Ray
That makes more sense than the fold in the poly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And a lesson to be learned by all of us.

Chuckle. True story- 71 ford full size wagon, had a lump under the
carpet on the front passenger footwell. Lived with it for over a year
like that, finally one day I couldn't take it anymore. Removed enough
trim to roll the carpet back, and damned if there wasn't a brand new
ignition key assembly, with key, sitting there under the carpet. Some
sort of production line oopsie, I guess. Wonder what they did with the
next car down the line when they didn't have an ignition cylinder to
match the doors?

Moral of the story- you ain't the only one to look at something and not
see it, and lay floor covering over it.

--
aem sends...

My late brother in law worked for a VW dealer back when they
were selling the air cooled Beatles. He once told me that
when they prepped the cars, they would often find German beer
bottles inside door panels.

TDD

On Monday, October 5, 2009 1:40:18 AM UTC-4, Ray K wrote:

One person had success with 3M super 77 spray adhesive.

found this thread while googling. i realize your problem turned out to be something else, but according to the 3M website, "3M™ Blue 72 Spray Adhesive" is exactly the right tool for the job. it specifically lists polyethylene sheeting and construction vapor barriers.

(another site says double-sided pressure sensitive foam tape will work, though that would't have worked in your case.)