Hi, I have a mid-1980s house with an older pressure reducing valve
(PRV) from the street. I imagine it's at least 8 yrs old (owned for 8
yrs).

I have had 3 significant leaks in the place since I bought. First one
was in the slab, but the other two in the pipes between upstairs and
down.

The plumber who fixed the last one (recently) tested the water
pressure at the front hose bibb. When he turned on the water, the
meter said 50 PSI. We were both relieved that it wasn't something
unusual that would require yet another fix (the PRV). However, I
decided to buy a meter from Home Depot just to be sure and monitor on
a regular basis.

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. But
unfortunately, it started to build! After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?

So my question:

Is the PSI at the time of just turning on the valve the one you read
or do you read it after the time that it stabilizes? I did adjust the
PRV down a bit but it would only go to just under 80 PSI. I think I
need a new PRV, correct?

I want to manage the water pressure to have minimal wear and tear on
the pipes.

Thanks for your help.

Matt

Hi, I have a mid-1980s house with an older pressure reducing valve
(PRV) from the street. I imagine it's at least 8 yrs old (owned for 8
yrs).

I have had 3 significant leaks in the place since I bought. First one
was in the slab, but the other two in the pipes between upstairs and
down.

The plumber who fixed the last one (recently) tested the water
pressure at the front hose bibb. When he turned on the water, the
meter said 50 PSI. We were both relieved that it wasn't something
unusual that would require yet another fix (the PRV). However, I
decided to buy a meter from Home Depot just to be sure and monitor on
a regular basis.

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. But
unfortunately, it started to build! After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?

So my question:

Is the PSI at the time of just turning on the valve the one you read
or do you read it after the time that it stabilizes? I did adjust the
PRV down a bit but it would only go to just under 80 PSI. I think I
need a new PRV, correct?

I want to manage the water pressure to have minimal wear and tear on
the pipes.

The conventional wisdom is that 80 PSI is the maximum acceptable static
pressure. Go adjust your PRV downward.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

I had the same thing happen to me some time ago. The pressure rises because
it is a closed system, it cannot vent over-pressure to the street side of
PRV. The pressure rises because your water heater causes the water in your
heater to expand and create pressure. I solved it by using an expansion
pipe. Just a 3' long 4" riser of PVC pipe mounted anywhere in the system,
such as above an outdoor faucet. You can also buy expansion tanks (google)

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
wrote in message
...
Hi, I have a mid-1980s house with an older pressure reducing valve
(PRV) from the street. I imagine it's at least 8 yrs old (owned for 8
yrs).

I have had 3 significant leaks in the place since I bought. First one
was in the slab, but the other two in the pipes between upstairs and
down.

The plumber who fixed the last one (recently) tested the water
pressure at the front hose bibb. When he turned on the water, the
meter said 50 PSI. We were both relieved that it wasn't something
unusual that would require yet another fix (the PRV). However, I
decided to buy a meter from Home Depot just to be sure and monitor on
a regular basis.

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. But
unfortunately, it started to build! After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?

So my question:

Is the PSI at the time of just turning on the valve the one you read
or do you read it after the time that it stabilizes? I did adjust the
PRV down a bit but it would only go to just under 80 PSI. I think I
need a new PRV, correct?

I want to manage the water pressure to have minimal wear and tear on
the pipes.

Thanks for your help.

Matt

"SteveBell" wrote in message
la.org...

I want to manage the water pressure to have minimal wear and tear
on the pipes.

The conventional wisdom is that 80 PSI is the maximum acceptable
static pressure. Go adjust your PRV downward.

When you adjust the valve, you may have to open a valve to let off
some of the pressure, then close it back and wait to see if the
pressure builds back up.

When the water is first turned on, if the pipes have any air in them,
or a bladder system the pressure will be lower and build up as
everything equalizes.

Good point, Ralph.

I recommend setting the PRV to the _lowest_ setting that the OP finds
acceptable. 80 PSI is the upper limit.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

"SteveBell" wrote in message
a.org...



I want to manage the water pressure to have minimal wear and tear on
the pipes.

The conventional wisdom is that 80 PSI is the maximum acceptable static
pressure. Go adjust your PRV downward.

--
Steve Bell

When you adjust the valve, you may have to open a valve to let off some of
the pressure, then close it back and wait to see if the pressure builds back
up.

When the water is first turned on, if the pipes have any air in them , or a
bladder system the pressure will be lower and build up as everything
equalizes.

wrote in message

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. But
unfortunately, it started to build! After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?


No. The tubing should be able to take much more pressure than that with no
problem. While not certified for operational pressure, I've seen testing
done at over 300 psi and at work, we have constant pressure in excess of 100
psi and have never had a problem.

If pipes are bursting, you may have other problems, such as corrosion from
very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in certain parts of the
country.

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. But
unfortunately, it started to build! After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?


No. The tubing should be able to take much more pressure than that with
no problem. While not certified for operational pressure, I've seen
testing done at over 300 psi and at work, we have constant pressure in
excess of 100 psi and have never had a problem.

If pipes are bursting, you may have other problems, such as corrosion
from very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in certain parts
of the country.



*I agree with Edwin. Another reason you are having leaks could be because
third world copper pipes were used when the house was built. It is not
unusual for that stuff to develop leaks over time. Did you ever ask your
plumber what he thought was causing the leaks?

wrote

Hi, I have a mid-1980s house with an older pressure reducing valve
(PRV) from the street. I imagine it's at least 8 yrs old (owned for 8
yrs).

Hi Annie! I can't answer any of your questions but I can tell you about an
apartment and a situation with one that blew. It's true. 1984, sumer time
this happened to me.

I was in Universal city (area around Randolpf AFB, San Antonio TX) in an
apartment complex. The city was doing some periodic pressure testing of
some sort out at the street. I found it out the hard way. Darn all the bad
luck but I was the first apartment in-line to the water main. The valve to
control the pressure to the complex blew.

I was sitting downstairs and simultaneously 2 things happened. A huge sound
of 'whoosh and crack' and an incredibly loud 'YYYOOOOWWWLLLL!!!!'. Possibly
..5 seconds later 2 other sounds came simultaneously. A second 'whump/crack'
and a sound of tearing cloth.

The first whoosh and crack was the pressure hitting my toilet which was the
weak spot. It hit so hard, the back lid flew up and hit the ceiling. The
second whump/crack' was that old 'what goes up must come down' as the back
lid hit the bowl and cracked it in 2.

The other sounds were my 35lb 'Bobby-cat' (Half tabby, half bobcat, happens
in Texas pretty often) who'd been snoozing on my bed upstairs, then the
ripping cloth was when he launched over the balcony to the curtins which
hung down both storys in a loft sort of place.

I'm sitting there looking at the cat and the next thing that happens is
water is POURING down the stairs and out the front door.

I ran to the managers post haste as the only water shutoff is below in the
kitchen and the floor is flooding fast and the overhead light has blown out
as it's below the bathroom and now pouring rain inside. I aint dumb! Nope!
Not in bare feet on a wet floor with frazzling electronics all over!

Grin, thought you might enjoy that. Moral though is this: Get the pressure
valve fixed to handle what the city can toss at ya.

John Grabowski wrote:

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. But
unfortunately, it started to build! After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?


No. The tubing should be able to take much more pressure than that with
no problem. While not certified for operational pressure, I've seen
testing done at over 300 psi and at work, we have constant pressure in
excess of 100 psi and have never had a problem.

If pipes are bursting, you may have other problems, such as corrosion
from very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in certain parts
of the country.

*I agree with Edwin. Another reason you are having leaks could be because
third world copper pipes were used when the house was built. It is not
unusual for that stuff to develop leaks over time. Did you ever ask your
plumber what he thought was causing the leaks?

It doesn't need to be "third world" pipes, there are different types
with different wall thickness commonly used M and L with M being quite a
bit thinner than L and as a result lasting a lot less time under
difficult water and service conditions. Type L is usually marked in blue
and type M in red.

"AZ Nomad" wrote in message
If pipes are bursting, you may have other problems, such as corrosion
from
very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in certain parts of the
country.

You've been listening to people talking out their asses.

Water acidic enough to affect plumbing would be unsafe to drink.

May the water corrode your asshole.


http://www.askthebuilder.com/084_Cop...ve_Water.shtml
Aggressive water is drinking water that can cause corrosion. It is a real
and growing problem in many parts of the country. Leaks are developing in
new homes that are less than 2 years old in some cases. These leaks can
cause high water bills and structural damage. Homeowners or municipal water
systems that obtain their water from wells are susceptible. Rarely, does
surface water (that obtained from rivers, lakes, etc.) become aggressive.
The causes and mechanisms that are responsible for the corrosion are not
always the same. Water that is slightly acidic is sometimes to blame. High
levels of dissolved minerals and carbon dioxide also can cause problems.
High levels of chloride or sulfate can be serious.



http://www.epa.gov/nrmrl/wswrd/cr/corr_res_copper.html

There are two types of copper corrosion: uniform and nonuniform. Both types
are caused by certain characteristics of water chemistry, including low pH,
high alkalinity, and the presence of sulfates or nitrates.

a.. Uniform corrosion is identified by the presence of a relatively
uniform deposition of copper corrosion by-products across the inner surface
of a pipe wall and is typically associated with elevated copper levels at
our taps.
b.. Nonuniform corrosion, or pitting, is the isolated development of
corrosion cells across the inner surface of a pipe wall. Although pitting
corrosion is seldom associated with elevated levels of copper at our taps,
excessive pitting corrosion can lead to "pinhole" leaks in the pipe, which
could result in water damage and mold growth.

On Wed, 3 Jun 2009 05:53:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"AZ Nomad" wrote in message
If pipes are bursting, you may have other problems, such as corrosion
from
very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in certain parts of the
country.

You've been listening to people talking out their asses.

Water acidic enough to affect plumbing would be unsafe to drink.

May the water corrode your asshole.




http://www.askthebuilder.com/084_Cop...ve_Water.shtml
absolute bull****.

water that acidic would be like drinking lemon juice.

On Jun 2, 9:36*am, "SteveBell" wrote:
Hi, I have a mid-1980s house with an older pressure reducing valve
(PRV) from the street. *I imagine it's at least 8 yrs old (owned for 8
yrs).

I have had 3 significant leaks in the place since I bought. *First one
was in the slab, but the other two in the pipes between upstairs and
down.

The plumber who fixed the last one (recently) tested the water
pressure at the front hose bibb. *When he turned on the water, the
meter said 50 PSI. *We were both relieved that it wasn't something
unusual that would require yet another fix (the PRV). *However, I
decided to buy a meter from Home Depot just to be sure and monitor on
a regular basis.

So I put on the meter, sure enough, it said about 50 PSI. Great. *But
unfortunately, it started to build! *After a few seconds it was at 90
psi. *I think 90 PSI could contribute to pipes bursting, correct?

So my question:

Is the PSI at the time of just turning on the valve the one you read
or do you read it after the time that it stabilizes? *I did adjust the
PRV down a bit but it would only go to just under 80 PSI. *I think I
need a new PRV, correct?

I want to manage the water pressure to have minimal wear and tear on
the pipes.

The conventional wisdom is that 80 PSI is the maximum acceptable static
pressure. Go adjust your PRV downward.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

In general, 60 psi is the recommended max for residential unless there
is a good reason to be higher. 60 will give you all the pressure you
need and will run impulse sprinklers with no problems.

Harry K

In article ,
AZ Nomad wrote:
...skipped...very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in
certain parts of the
country.

You've been listening to people talking out their asses.

Water acidic enough to affect plumbing would be unsafe to drink.

Actually pinhole leaks caused by corrosive pitting of copper pipes are
most commonly associated alkaline water, not acidic, though the exact
cause has not been determined. See for example

http://www.toolbase.org/Building-Sys...-pinhole-leaks




--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Wed, 3 Jun 2009 20:12:34 +0000 (UTC), Larry W wrote:
In article ,
AZ Nomad wrote:
...skipped...very acidic water. I've heard that is a problem in
certain parts of the
country.

You've been listening to people talking out their asses.

Water acidic enough to affect plumbing would be unsafe to drink.

Actually pinhole leaks caused by corrosive pitting of copper pipes are
most commonly associated alkaline water, not acidic, though the exact
cause has not been determined. See for example

http://www.toolbase.org/Building-Sys...-pinhole-leaks

Sounds to me like substandard materials.

I'd look for a galvanic reaction instead of looking for some
mysterious PH inbalance that somehow can't be tasted.