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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

Hello,

I'm installing some 4' x 8' drywall on a ceiling. Is that stuff ever
heavy. I'm wondering if the screws I have will be enough to hold it.
Should I use some sort of adhesive? What type of screws should I
use? Any other advice on how to ensure that this doesn't come
crashing down one day?

Thanks
Sam
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

On Jun 2, 10:17*am, Sammy wrote:
Hello,

I'm installing some 4' x 8' drywall on a ceiling. *Is that stuff ever
heavy. *I'm wondering if the screws I have will be enough to hold it.
Should I use some sort of adhesive? *What type of screws should I
use? *Any other advice on how to ensure that this doesn't come
crashing down one day?

Thanks
Sam


Just use regular drywall screws, no adhesive needed.
Also if you want you can rent a drywall lift at at Home depot or tool
rental place. I rented mine for $25, it was the best money I spent. I
had to hang 3 sheets of 4'X12' in my kitchen by myself.
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

Thanks for the reply. The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling


Thanks for the reply. The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?


The ceilings I've seen professionally installed seem to be spaced every
12 to 18 inches. I put them every six to eight inches on the ceiling,
but I like to over-do. Drywall screws are cheap.

Drive the screws in until the head is below the surface of the drwyall,
dimpling the paper. If you drive to far and tear the paper, put in
another screw properly next to the one that tore. The paper is what
provides the support.

Pay a couple of bucks extra for the paperless wallboard. It has
fiberglass covering instead of paper, and it is less likely to mold.

If this is a bathroom or other damp area, use the water-resistant
wallboard.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

On Jun 2, 9:17*am, Sammy wrote:
Hello,

I'm installing some 4' x 8' drywall on a ceiling. *Is that stuff ever heavy.


Standard weight of 1/2" is around 52 lbs. Not all that heavy, but very
awkward.

snip


Should I use some sort of adhesive?


No.

*What type of screws should I use?


! 1/4" bugle head drywall screws. Galvanized if near a potential wet
area. Space 8 - 12 inches.

Any other advice on how to ensure that this doesn't come crashing down one day?


Rent a drywall screwdriver, corded if possible. Use it at low speed
until you get the hang of it. Get a few drywall bits with the little
hood which prevents breaking through the paper. Download the 350 +
page pdf USG Gypsum Construction Manual for more information. Buy a
Magna Sand outfit before you start the tape-and-mud part or hire pros
to do that. Double check all your ceiling joists before starting for
level, and shim or plane as needed. Don't work alone, you need extra
hands for best results.

Joe


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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling


"Mike rock" wrote in message
...
On Jun 2, 10:17 am, Sammy wrote:
Hello,

I'm installing some 4' x 8' drywall on a ceiling. Is that stuff ever
heavy. I'm wondering if the screws I have will be enough to hold it.
Should I use some sort of adhesive? What type of screws should I
use? Any other advice on how to ensure that this doesn't come
crashing down one day?

Thanks
Sam


Just use regular drywall screws, no adhesive needed.
Also if you want you can rent a drywall lift at at Home depot or tool
rental place. I rented mine for $25, it was the best money I spent. I
had to hang 3 sheets of 4'X12' in my kitchen by myself.

Ditto....Good advice...

Inch and a quarter drywall screws should be installed as follows with screw
heads just barely dimpling the paper so they can be filled with mud...NOT TO
DEEP or they will pop through...Use a drywall screwgun or the attachment for
your cordless drill that sets them at the right depth automatically for best
results....

1 on the tapered edge , 3 in the field , and 1 on the other edge...Like
this.. |. . . . .|

On the butt or end of the sheet they should be about 6 inches apart... Like
this... |..........|

Hope this helps...Good luck with your project....If you need taping help
just ask.....

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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling



I was being vague about "water-resistant wallboard" because code
varies. If DensArmor is OK in your area for damp areas, I'd use that. I
wouldn't use it, or greenboard either, in a wet area like a shower or
tub surround, even though lots of people do. I've repaired too many
tiled walls with rotted wallboard behind.


I have seen greenboard with mold on it so many times that I wonder
what is different about it besides the color. Thanks for the
clarification.

JK

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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

Big_Jake wrote:
I was being vague about "water-resistant wallboard" because code
varies. If DensArmor is OK in your area for damp areas, I'd use that. I
wouldn't use it, or greenboard either, in a wet area like a shower or
tub surround, even though lots of people do. I've repaired too many
tiled walls with rotted wallboard behind.


I have seen greenboard with mold on it so many times that I wonder
what is different about it besides the color. Thanks for the
clarification.

JK


Gold Bond® BRAND MR (Moisture-Resistant) Board is a specially
processed gypsum wallboard with the core, face paper and back paper of
MR Board treated to withstand the effects of moisture. The facing paper
is colored light green to make it distinguishable from regular gypsum
wallboard.

BASIC USES
MR Board can be used as a tile backer board in dry areas or areas
with limited water exposure such as toilet/sink areas and areas above
tile in tubs and showers. MR Board may be extended beyond the area to
be tiled. A tapered edge is provided so that joints can be treated
in the normal manner.

MR Board is applied in the same way as regular gypsum wallboard
except that during the installation of the panels, water-resistant
tile adhesive is applied to all cut or exposed edges, utility holes
and joints, including those at wall intersections.

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/submit...29%2000-99.pdf


(Thank you mr google...)

The biggest shortcoming in application/installations w/ greenboard is
the failure to follow the recommendations/instructions in the last
paragraph above.

Depending on the brand/product, there may or may not be extra
mildewcides on the paper surface; it isn't surprising if there is
moisture penetration behind the surface covering that mold will form.

--

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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

On Jun 2, 11:35*am, "SteveBell" wrote:
Thanks for the reply. *The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? *How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?


The ceilings I've seen professionally installed seem to be spaced every
12 to 18 inches. I put them every six to eight inches on the ceiling,
but I like to over-do. Drywall screws are cheap.


12 to 18 inches on a ceiling...? That's not a professional
installation even if they were licensed and paid for the job.

USG's sag resistant 1/2" ceiling panels can have screws 12" on center,
but standard 1/2" drywall is usually 6" to 8" on center. You're not
overdoing it, you're doing it just right.

R
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

Sammy wrote:

Thanks for the reply. The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?


2x4s?

What's the span?

I think 2x4s are only rated for about 4-5ft. max.


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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

On Jun 3, 7:43*pm, "Bob(but not THAT Bob)" wrote:
Sammy wrote:

Thanks for the reply. *The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? *How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?


2x4s?

What's the span?

I think 2x4s are only rated for about 4-5ft. max.


Trusses are most commonly made with 2x4 stock. The span can be quite
large.

R
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

On Tue, 2 Jun 2009 07:17:50 -0700 (PDT), Sammy
wrote:

Hello,

I'm installing some 4' x 8' drywall on a ceiling. Is that stuff ever
heavy. I'm wondering if the screws I have will be enough to hold it.
Should I use some sort of adhesive? What type of screws should I
use? Any other advice on how to ensure that this doesn't come
crashing down one day?

Thanks
Sam



Don't need adhesive, just drywall screws. Use a little more than what
you would on the wall. Often, walls go up after the ceiling and that
provides perimeter support.
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

RicodJour wrote:

On Jun 3, 7:43 pm, "Bob(but not THAT Bob)" wrote:
Sammy wrote:

Thanks for the reply. The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?


2x4s?

What's the span?

I think 2x4s are only rated for about 4-5ft. max.


Trusses are most commonly made with 2x4 stock. The span can be quite
large.

R


Guess I missed the part about it being a truss.
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Default Installing Drywall on Ceiling

On Jun 3, 11:03*pm, "Bob(but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
RicodJour wrote:

On Jun 3, 7:43 pm, "Bob(but not THAT Bob)" wrote:
Sammy wrote:


Thanks for the reply. *The heads on the screws seem to be so small.
Won't the drywall just push down over them given time? *How far apart
should the screws be in the 2x4 they will be screwed into?


2x4s?


What's the span?


I think 2x4s are only rated for about 4-5ft. max.


Trusses are most commonly made with 2x4 stock. *The span can be quite
large.



Guess I missed the part about it being a truss.


It's unclear what the construction is. You were questioning the span
with 2x4s, seeming to indicate you were assuming it was a 2x4 joist,
and I was pointing out that it could be a truss. Only the OP knows
for sure.

The wood species, live and dead loads and deflection requirements also
have a lot to do with the allowable span. With a 10 PSF live load, a
5 PSF dead load, southern pine, #2 grade 2x4s at 16" on center, and a
1/240 deflection limit the allowable span is a bit over 11 feet.

Obviously that's way more information than the OP will have on hand,
so there's really no point asking. When in doubt, send them to an
engineer.

R
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