Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2" copper
rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

Probably because resistance is dependent upon length as well as diameter.


"Rudy" wrote in message
...
Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2"
copper rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

Joe wrote:
Probably because resistance is dependent upon length as well as diameter.


"Rudy" wrote in message
...
Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2"
copper rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.



Sure, but that is a reasonable question. Typically 1/2" PEX works fine
for domestic water but since no details were offered about why 3/4" was
chosen it makes sense to question it.

"George" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:
Probably because resistance is dependent upon length as well as diameter.


"Rudy" wrote in message
...
Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2"
copper rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying
into 1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.



Sure, but that is a reasonable question. Typically 1/2" PEX works fine for
domestic water but since no details were offered about why 3/4" was chosen
it makes sense to question it.

Quite true

On Feb 10, 8:48*pm, "John F. F." wrote:
Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX *3/4 "
tubing? * * I'm using *Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

http://www.toolbase.org/Design-Const...x-design-guide

The guide recommends 1/2" lines for most residential applications, and
3/8" lines for lower volume fixture runs.

R

On Feb 10, 10:42*pm, "Rudy" wrote:
Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2" copper
rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX *3/4 "
tubing? * * I'm using *Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

Because; bigger is always better, I'd do my house in 3" if it was
feasible, then I could use flushvalve toilets.

flushomters only require 1"
"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
...
On Feb 10, 10:42 pm, "Rudy" wrote:
Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2"
copper
rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

Because; bigger is always better, I'd do my house in 3" if it was
feasible, then I could use flushvalve toilets.

On Feb 11, 2:21*pm, "Don & Lucille" wrote:
flushomters only require 1"

I'll bet they work better with bigger pipes.
The minimum requirement for Windows XP is 128mb ram, 1.5 gigabytes
(GB) of available hard disk space, try that some time.
The minimum requirement for sky diving is a paper towel with 4 strings
tied to the corners.

Sure, but that is a reasonable question. Typically 1/2" PEX works fine for
domestic water but since no details were offered about why 3/4" was chosen
it makes sense to question it.

Thats where I was coming from George. I've seen plenty of PEX manifolds for
regular homes and all of them had 1/2" runs to the risers. Seems to work
well since most of the faucets etc are actually fed by 3/8" pipe anyway

On Feb 11, 8:50*am, Eric in North TX wrote:
On Feb 10, 10:42*pm, "Rudy" wrote:

Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2" copper
rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX *3/4 "
tubing? * * I'm using *Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

Because; bigger is always better, I'd do my house in 3" if it was
feasible, then I could use flushvalve toilets.


No...bigger is NOT always better.

In most residential installations 1/2" is just fine, larger tubing &
the associated fittings are more expensive.

In fact using larger diameter tubing than necessary will only increase
hot water wait time.



OP - Short answer about 3/4" PEX, dont use it .... not necessary.

Long answer - unless you have an unusual installation or
requirements OR are doing a branch & main installation, I do not
see the need for 3/4" PEX.

IMO the best PEX system is Wirsbo tubing & expander type connections
and home run installation with copper valved manifolds, all 1/2"
tubing.

cheers
Bob

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 21:42:53 -0700, Rudy wrote:

Using Hot & cold separate manifolds ? Why use 3/4" PEX to go to 1/2" copper
rather than use 1/2" all the way ?

Are there are tips the collective group can offer to using PEX 3/4 "
tubing? I'm using Watts Quik Connect fittings and will be tying into
1/2" copper fixture risers.
Thanks.

My son-in-law just hooked up his bathtub with 3/4" and it fills VERY fast,
much nicer than 1/2" supply lines. Unless it is a very long run, 1/2"
would do well for most other applications.