This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...1fe2c8f8?hl=en

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

On Feb 1, 8:42*pm, sid wrote:
This is a continuation of the following thread:http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...hread/thread/2...

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos:http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

There is no reason to start a new thread - there is nothing wrong with
the existing one.

"sid" wrote in message
...
This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...1fe2c8f8?hl=en

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.


*Looks like a nice easy run. Post some after pictures so we can see the
change.

On Feb 1, 11:12*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...

This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...hread/thread/2...

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos:http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

*Looks like a nice easy run. *Post some after pictures so we can see the
change.

There were some suggestions on finding a tin shop and having them
fabricate a piece that would transition from 6" round to rectangle
bend under the microlam and back up.

Why can't I just buy some tin from the hardware store and fabricate my
own from tin and pop-rivets ?
It would save a lot of time and money designing and explaining it to
someone else.

Does it have to be Tin or can it be galvanized steel ? and do I have
to worry about aluminum rivets corroding with the steel ?

Thanks

"sid" wrote in message
...
On Feb 1, 11:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...

This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...hread/thread/2...

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos:http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

*Looks like a nice easy run. Post some after pictures so we can see the
change.

There were some suggestions on finding a tin shop and having them
fabricate a piece that would transition from 6" round to rectangle
bend under the microlam and back up.

Why can't I just buy some tin from the hardware store and fabricate my
own from tin and pop-rivets ?
It would save a lot of time and money designing and explaining it to
someone else.

Does it have to be Tin or can it be galvanized steel ? and do I have
to worry about aluminum rivets corroding with the steel ?


*From what I see in your photos, you don't need any special transition. It
looks as though you can run your 2 1/4" x 12" duct directly under the
existing round. You just need to insert a round collar into the 12" and
connect the round duct directly to that.

Normally galvanized sheet metal is used for ducts. I have also seen ducts
made from aluminum. If you think that you can do it faster than a sheet
metal shop go ahead. When I have something made I give them a crude drawing
with dimensions. They enter the dimensions into a computer. The plasma
cutter cuts the pieces and a tin knocker rivets or crimps the pieces
together. Takes about an hour or so and they have the materials in stock.

On Feb 2, 1:00*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...
On Feb 1, 11:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:

"sid" wrote in message

....

This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...hread/thread/2....

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos:http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

*Looks like a nice easy run. Post some after pictures so we can see the
change.

There were some suggestions on finding a tin shop and having them
fabricate a piece that would transition from 6" round to rectangle
bend under the microlam and back up.

Why can't I just buy some tin from the hardware store and fabricate my
own from tin and pop-rivets ?
It would save a lot of time and money designing and explaining it to
someone else.

Does it have to be Tin or can it be galvanized steel ? *and do I have
to worry about aluminum rivets corroding with the steel ?

*From what I see in your photos, you don't need any special transition. *It
looks as though you can run your 2 1/4" x 12" duct directly under the
existing round. *You just need to insert a round collar into the 12" and
connect the round duct directly to that.

Normally galvanized sheet metal is used for ducts. *I have also seen ducts
made from aluminum. * If you think that you can do it faster than a sheet
metal shop go ahead. *When I have something made I give them a crude drawing
with dimensions. *They enter the dimensions into a computer. *The plasma
cutter cuts the pieces and a tin knocker rivets or crimps the pieces
together. *Takes about an hour or so and they have the materials in stock.

What does it cost you for an hours labor to fabricate a unique piece

"sid" wrote in message
...
On Feb 2, 1:00 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...
On Feb 1, 11:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:

"sid" wrote in message

...

This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...hread/thread/2...

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos:http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

*Looks like a nice easy run. Post some after pictures so we can see the
change.

There were some suggestions on finding a tin shop and having them
fabricate a piece that would transition from 6" round to rectangle
bend under the microlam and back up.

Why can't I just buy some tin from the hardware store and fabricate my
own from tin and pop-rivets ?
It would save a lot of time and money designing and explaining it to
someone else.

Does it have to be Tin or can it be galvanized steel ? and do I have
to worry about aluminum rivets corroding with the steel ?

*From what I see in your photos, you don't need any special transition. It
looks as though you can run your 2 1/4" x 12" duct directly under the
existing round. You just need to insert a round collar into the 12" and
connect the round duct directly to that.

Normally galvanized sheet metal is used for ducts. I have also seen ducts
made from aluminum. If you think that you can do it faster than a sheet
metal shop go ahead. When I have something made I give them a crude
drawing
with dimensions. They enter the dimensions into a computer. The plasma
cutter cuts the pieces and a tin knocker rivets or crimps the pieces
together. Takes about an hour or so and they have the materials in stock.

What does it cost you for an hours labor to fabricate a unique piece



*I have paid $25.00 to $70.00 for various pieces over the past few years
here in NJ. They seem to give me a better price when they are slow like
now. Summer is a busy time for them and I usually have to wait a few days
while this time of year they may have it ready the same or next day. Shop
around. I have had some work done at another place and it was real nice and
fast, but the price was quite high.

On Feb 2, 5:27*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"sid" wrote in message

...
On Feb 2, 1:00 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:





"sid" wrote in message

...
On Feb 1, 11:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:

"sid" wrote in message

....

This is a continuation of the following thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.h...hread/thread/2...

I visited HD and found a transition to 2-1/4" x 12". (27sq")
Here are some photos:http://picasaweb.google.com/basement009/Duct#
I need to flatten out the ductwork and have it hug the microlam to
recover about 3" and make room for a header for a standard door. View
full size to see the labels.

*Looks like a nice easy run. Post some after pictures so we can see the
change.

There were some suggestions on finding a tin shop and having them
fabricate a piece that would transition from 6" round to rectangle
bend under the microlam and back up.

Why can't I just buy some tin from the hardware store and fabricate my
own from tin and pop-rivets ?
It would save a lot of time and money designing and explaining it to
someone else.

Does it have to be Tin or can it be galvanized steel ? and do I have
to worry about aluminum rivets corroding with the steel ?

*From what I see in your photos, you don't need any special transition. It
looks as though you can run your 2 1/4" x 12" duct directly under the
existing round. You just need to insert a round collar into the 12" and
connect the round duct directly to that.

Normally galvanized sheet metal is used for ducts. I have also seen ducts
made from aluminum. If you think that you can do it faster than a sheet
metal shop go ahead. When I have something made I give them a crude
drawing
with dimensions. They enter the dimensions into a computer. The plasma
cutter cuts the pieces and a tin knocker rivets or crimps the pieces
together. Takes about an hour or so and they have the materials in stock.

What does it cost you for an hours labor to fabricate a unique piece

*I have paid $25.00 to $70.00 for various pieces over the past few years
here in NJ. *They seem to give me a better price when they are slow like
now. *Summer is a busy time for them and I usually have to wait a few days
while this time of year they may have it ready the same or next day. *Shop
around. *I have had some work done at another place and it was real nice and
fast, but the price was quite high.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It’s going to be 2 weeks before I can get to the other side of the
basement finished and then work on this side.
I will post some more pictures when I get that far.

Thanks for your feedback.

Sid.