On Feb 2, 5:36*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
David Nebenzahl wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:

I wish they would allow one way mirror glass in nurseries.

There is no such thing. *It's just a semitransparent mirror--you
can see through it to whichever side has the brighter light.
When
used, for example, in a police lineup, the bright light is on the
lineup side, the dim light on the witness side, so the lineup
sees
a mirror. If you dim the lights on that side and turn them up on
the witness side then you can see the other way.

Hmmm, you say there is no such thing, then go on to describe how
that very thing works.

I'm confused. * :-)

There's no such thing as a "one-way" mirror--that is, a mirror that
can always be seen through from one side and that always reflects
from the other side. As he explained, it depends on different light
levels on each side.

Read my reply to John.

Do you guys get woodies from bringing up pointless and useless
semantics? * :-)

Welcome to USENET.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Please, let's have a round of applause for our newly appointed
WallMart greeter....

On Sun, 01 Feb 2009 23:05:19 -0600, zxcvbob
wrote:

SteveBell wrote:

If code requires a window in the door, then you'll likely have to have
one even if you make it a Dutch door. How else would you look in if
both halves of the door are closed?

The upper door needs a window... or there could just be a lower door.

'Round here, all glass within four feet of a door is required to be of
the safety variety--either tempered (breaks into crumbs), or laminated
(has a central layer of plastic like auto glass), or both.

Both? So it breaks into crumbs, but sticks to the middle layer?
Cool.

Definitely some kind of safety glass, or Plexiglas. I knew that much.

If you can't get Plexiglas, limit your enrolment to Plexikids.

Bob

zxcvbob wrote:
SteveBell wrote:

If code requires a window in the door, then you'll likely have to have
one even if you make it a Dutch door. How else would you look in if
both halves of the door are closed?

The upper door needs a window... or there could just be a lower door.

'Round here, all glass within four feet of a door is required to be of
the safety variety--either tempered (breaks into crumbs), or laminated
(has a central layer of plastic like auto glass), or both.


Definitely some kind of safety glass, or Plexiglas. I knew that much.

Bob


Woman from the church talked to a finish carpenter (or maybe a cabinet
maker) yesterday and he said it couldn't be done -- even with a solid
core door because the panels would come apart if it was cut. ??? Of
course, I don't know what she really asked him.

I have a table saw, jointer, and router. I may just make a door from
scratch and use Formica for the door skins instead of Luan to make it
more durable. How hard could it be? (if it's a disaster, I'll learn
something, and no one else has to know :-) Spruce 2x6's aren't that
expensive...

I should probably hang it before I apply the skins so they don't chip at
the edges if the door needs to be trimmed.

(Somebody stop me)

Bob

On Feb 10, 1:28*am, zxcvbob wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:
SteveBell wrote:

If code requires a window in the door, then you'll likely have to have
one even if you make it a Dutch door. How else would you look in if
both halves of the door are closed?

The upper door needs a window... or there could just be a lower door.

'Round here, all glass within four feet of a door is required to be of
the safety variety--either tempered (breaks into crumbs), or laminated
(has a central layer of plastic like auto glass), or both.

Definitely some kind of safety glass, or Plexiglas. *I knew that much..

Bob

Woman from the church talked to a finish carpenter (or maybe a cabinet
maker) yesterday and he said it couldn't be done -- even with a solid
core door because the panels would come apart if it was cut. *??? *Of
course, I don't know what she really asked him.

I have a table saw, jointer, and router. *I may just make a door from
scratch and use Formica for the door skins instead of Luan to make it
more durable. *How hard could it be? *(if it's a disaster, I'll learn
something, and no one else has to know :-) *Spruce 2x6's aren't that
expensive...

I should probably hang it before I apply the skins so they don't chip at
the edges if the door needs to be trimmed.

(Somebody stop me)

Bob

The skins will need a substrate if you're going to use Formica. 1/4"
ply would do you.

Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 10, 1:28 am, zxcvbob wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:

I have a table saw, jointer, and router. I may just make a door from
scratch and use Formica for the door skins instead of Luan to make it
more durable. How hard could it be? (if it's a disaster, I'll learn
something, and no one else has to know :-) Spruce 2x6's aren't that
expensive...

I should probably hang it before I apply the skins so they don't chip at
the edges if the door needs to be trimmed.

(Somebody stop me)

Bob

The skins will need a substrate if you're going to use Formica. 1/4"
ply would do you.


To keep the rails and stiles and blocking from telegraphing thru? I was
planning to have quite a bit of internal bracing (because of the window)
and fill the voids with foam sheeting (to deaden the noise.) Not
arguing, just trying to understand what you mean. Thanks.

There are hollow-core slab doors with windows in them at work. I'm
gonna take some measurements today.

Bob

Not true about the hollow core doors.

I had to make some off standard size doors and started with hollow cores. I
cut them to size, knocked the cardboard stiffener out of the way on the open
edge and milled a piece to fit the gap and glued it in.

Once I sanded the edges it looked almost like the factory edge.


"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
zxcvbob wrote:
SteveBell wrote:

If code requires a window in the door, then you'll likely have to have
one even if you make it a Dutch door. How else would you look in if
both halves of the door are closed?

The upper door needs a window... or there could just be a lower door.

'Round here, all glass within four feet of a door is required to be of
the safety variety--either tempered (breaks into crumbs), or laminated
(has a central layer of plastic like auto glass), or both.


Definitely some kind of safety glass, or Plexiglas. I knew that much.

Bob


Woman from the church talked to a finish carpenter (or maybe a cabinet
maker) yesterday and he said it couldn't be done -- even with a solid core
door because the panels would come apart if it was cut. ??? Of course, I
don't know what she really asked him.

I have a table saw, jointer, and router. I may just make a door from
scratch and use Formica for the door skins instead of Luan to make it more
durable. How hard could it be? (if it's a disaster, I'll learn
something, and no one else has to know :-) Spruce 2x6's aren't that
expensive...

I should probably hang it before I apply the skins so they don't chip at
the edges if the door needs to be trimmed.

(Somebody stop me)

Bob

Jay Giuliani wrote:
Not true about the hollow core doors.

I had to make some off standard size doors and started with hollow
cores. I cut them to size, knocked the cardboard stiffener out of the
way on the open edge and milled a piece to fit the gap and glued it in.

Once I sanded the edges it looked almost like the factory edge.


I thought so.

I'll see if Menard's has any prehung hollow core slab doors. Hollow
core probably has only 2 hinges, so it'll be easier to add another pair
before I cut it (instead of having to move the center hinge and add a
4th.) I've been looking at windowed hollow doors at work and they have
a relatively small window off-center and away from the hinges -- doesn't
reduce the strength as much that way.

I might can do the whole thing in a weekend for $100. If I ruin it, I
haven't ruined much. (the window will be trickier than cutting and
reblocking the edges) Thanks.

Bob