Hi -

I don't know how to describe those peel-off, stick-on cloth-like
protectors that you cut & fit to the base of lamps, vases, etc. to
avoid scratching the surface on which they are placed.

I must be a slow learner! I have sustained serious staining damage
to (a) wood floor from file cabinets (b) TWO table tops, from this
stuff.

The stains are so bad, I can' get them out with anything
I've tried: several brands of wood cleaners - even bleach.
(the bleach ruined adjacent wood; didn't removed the stain.)
Not even Jasco got it out. Nor did steel or bronze wool or even light
hand sanding.

Question: Is this stain removable, period?

Or do I have to have the surface refinished?

If so, how deep would the refinisher have to go to get
stain out?

Thanks for any input.

Amiga

Amiga wrote in message
...

I have sustained serious staining damage to
(a) wood floor from file cabinets (b) TWO table tops, from this stuff.

The stains are so bad, I can' get them out with anything
I've tried: several brands of wood cleaners - even bleach.
(the bleach ruined adjacent wood; didn't removed the stain.)
Not even Jasco got it out. Nor did steel or bronze wool or even light
hand sanding.

Question: Is this stain removable, period?

Or do I have to have the surface refinished?

If so, how deep would the refinisher have to go to get
stain out?

Consult a woodworker or vendors of speciality timber
or cabinet-making tools. Your main problem is that
stains penetrate under the top surface of finished
wood, thus usually requiring sanding to remove the
whole top surface, then refinishing all (smoothing,
sealing, coating etc.) Finishing methods vary, e.g. a
wood floor coating needs to be much harder than the
finish on a table top.

Stick-on protectors for wood should be stuck to the objects
(e.g. filing cabinets) and not to the wood.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Don Phillipson wrote:
Amiga wrote in message
...

I have sustained serious staining damage to
(a) wood floor from file cabinets (b) TWO table tops, from this stuff.

The stains are so bad, I can' get them out with anything
I've tried: several brands of wood cleaners - even bleach.
(the bleach ruined adjacent wood; didn't removed the stain.)
Not even Jasco got it out. Nor did steel or bronze wool or even light
hand sanding.

Question: Is this stain removable, period?

Or do I have to have the surface refinished?

If so, how deep would the refinisher have to go to get
stain out?

Consult a woodworker or vendors of speciality timber
or cabinet-making tools. Your main problem is that
stains penetrate under the top surface of finished
wood, thus usually requiring sanding to remove the
whole top surface, then refinishing all (smoothing,
sealing, coating etc.) Finishing methods vary, e.g. a
wood floor coating needs to be much harder than the
finish on a table top.

Stick-on protectors for wood should be stuck to the objects
(e.g. filing cabinets) and not to the wood.

Even if you stick them to the object, sometimes they leak, especially if
the plastic/rubber or felt breaks down and/or ever gets wet. BTDT. For
heavy stuff like file cabinets, I prefer to use carefully cut squares of
wood or hard plastic, whatever is laying around. Same with computer
cases, back when desktop machines weighed 50 pounds. The damn cheap
factory feet always fused into the wood, and pulled off the case when
you went to move it. Critical to make sure no grit is between the item
and the wood finish, and never slide stuff.

As to how to fix the damage- I'm no woodworker, but have had decent luck
with Minwax gel stain, rubbed hard into the damaged spot. It often
disguises it well enough to get by. If it was a sun-faded desktop, I'd
rub it into the whole top and hand-buff it. Of course, almost all my
furniture is old when I get it, so my standards may be loose.

--
aem sends....

On Fri, 23 Jan 2009 00:12:17 GMT, aemeijers wrote:

Don Phillipson wrote:
Amiga wrote in message
...

I have sustained serious staining damage to
(a) wood floor from file cabinets (b) TWO table tops, from this stuff.

The stains are so bad, I can' get them out with anything
I've tried: several brands of wood cleaners - even bleach.
(the bleach ruined adjacent wood; didn't removed the stain.)
Not even Jasco got it out. Nor did steel or bronze wool or even light
hand sanding.

Question: Is this stain removable, period?

Or do I have to have the surface refinished?

If so, how deep would the refinisher have to go to get
stain out?

Consult a woodworker or vendors of speciality timber
or cabinet-making tools. Your main problem is that
stains penetrate under the top surface of finished
wood, thus usually requiring sanding to remove the
whole top surface, then refinishing all (smoothing,
sealing, coating etc.) Finishing methods vary, e.g. a
wood floor coating needs to be much harder than the
finish on a table top.

Stick-on protectors for wood should be stuck to the objects
(e.g. filing cabinets) and not to the wood.

Even if you stick them to the object, sometimes they leak, especially if
the plastic/rubber or felt breaks down and/or ever gets wet. BTDT. For
heavy stuff like file cabinets, I prefer to use carefully cut squares of
wood or hard plastic, whatever is laying around. Same with computer
cases, back when desktop machines weighed 50 pounds. The damn cheap
factory feet always fused into the wood, and pulled off the case when
you went to move it. Critical to make sure no grit is between the item
and the wood finish, and never slide stuff.

As to how to fix the damage- I'm no woodworker, but have had decent luck
with Minwax gel stain, rubbed hard into the damaged spot. It often
disguises it well enough to get by. If it was a sun-faded desktop, I'd
rub it into the whole top and hand-buff it. Of course, almost all my
furniture is old when I get it, so my standards may be loose.

OF COURSE I stuck the felt protectors to the objects, not the wood!!!

Why the color leaked out onto the wood objects, I do not know. Though
I am a slow learner g I have now resolved to used only glass or good
quality plastic "dots" to separate object from wood, especially not
the colored felt found on the backs of tiles.

Also, in a thrift shop, I found neat-o glass "saucers" w/little legs
-- obviously meant, inter alia, for things like planters.

I'm not handy enough to attempt sanding the large coffee table. The
stain is only a very small area, in the shape of the glass bricks
that support large books. ( I must have lined the bricks
with that infamous green felt so they wouldn't scratch the wood!}
But I gather that it wouldn't be safe to sand just the small area.

Of course the table, which I commissioned 'n' years ago, has
sustained various other insults over time, so it might be worth
getting a quote on professional sanding the whole thing -- if they can
guarantee removing the stains. Now to count my pennies!

Thanks for all for help.