Hi Group,

Got a question about installing laminate. I'll be installing glueless
laminate in a small bedroom which has a closet. I want to continue the
laminate into the closet. I intend to cut away the door jamb molding
and don't expect a problem with that and I understand that I may need
to cut away the locking lip from the laminate in the doorway and glue
those pieces together.

In this room the laminate will have to run parallel with the closet
door frame. Can anyone give me any tips as to how to make the work
around the door jamb as painless as possible? My alternative will be
to install a transition piece in the closet doorway even though the
same material will be in the closet.

Thanks,
Vic

Vic wrote:
Hi Group,

Got a question about installing laminate. I'll be installing glueless
laminate in a small bedroom which has a closet. I want to continue the
laminate into the closet. I intend to cut away the door jamb molding
and don't expect a problem with that

Okay.

and I understand that I may need
to cut away the locking lip from the laminate in the doorway and glue
those pieces together.

Huh? I can't imagine a case where gluing laminate pieces together is
appropriate. Further, the locking edge will be hidden beneath the door jamb
but part will be available for hooking the continuation piece inside the
closet.



In this room the laminate will have to run parallel with the closet
door frame. Can anyone give me any tips as to how to make the work
around the door jamb as painless as possible? My alternative will be
to install a transition piece in the closet doorway even though the
same material will be in the closet.


1. Take off the baseboards - fit the laminate under. This is a good excuse
to clean them up and repaint.
2. You can make GOOD use of a cheap table saw (HD has a Ryobi for $99, B&D
has a cheap model also).
3. To cut the door jamb molding, get a Harbor Freight Multifunction tool, or
a hand saw made for the purpose.
4. You can make good use of this "laminate floor ratchet clamp." No matter
how much cussing and beating on the thing with a rubber hammer, there will
be some planks that just refuse to click together.
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...trap&Submit=Go

It's really easier than your think it might be and looks swell when you're
done.

Vic wrote in
:

Hi Group,

Got a question about installing laminate. I'll be installing glueless
laminate in a small bedroom which has a closet. I want to continue the
laminate into the closet. I intend to cut away the door jamb molding
and don't expect a problem with that and I understand that I may need
to cut away the locking lip from the laminate in the doorway and glue
those pieces together.

In this room the laminate will have to run parallel with the closet
door frame. Can anyone give me any tips as to how to make the work
around the door jamb as painless as possible? My alternative will be
to install a transition piece in the closet doorway even though the
same material will be in the closet.

Thanks,
Vic




Not sure I understand exactly what you are getting at but I've run it in
into doorways both length and width-wise.

Use a piece of scrap laminate. Lay it against where you want to undercut
the doorway trim and cut with a dovetail/jamb hand saw. This one is nice
in that the blade easily reverses on a center pivot for left or right
cutting.

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2128/212805_300.jpg

If pieces don't just fall out, just knock out with some tool you have.
Pcs of laminate can be locked in to what's already down then slid under
things by tapping on it's end. Butt a pc of scrap againt the end of the
pc your install and tap it as not to damage the finished pc. There is
also a laminate pull bar tool for for this.


http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...d5c3e7_400.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...7799/97751.gif

50% or more of all this stuff is just improvising.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
2. You can make GOOD use of a cheap table saw (HD has a Ryobi for $99, B&D
has a cheap model also).
3. To cut the door jamb molding, get a Harbor Freight Multifunction tool,
or

Or a miter saw since a lot of cross cuts are needed. In either case, use a
carbide tipped blade. It will need sharpening when the job is done.
Laminate is tough on blades.

On Jan 6, 9:12*am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
2. You can make GOOD use of a cheap table saw (HD has a Ryobi for $99, B&D
has a cheap model also).
3. To cut the door jamb molding, get a Harbor Freight Multifunction tool,
or

Or a miter saw since a lot of cross cuts are needed. In either case, use a
carbide tipped blade. *It will need sharpening when the job is done.
Laminate is tough on blades.

Thanks for the links and advice. I'm feeling pretty confident that I
can do a pretty good job now.

Regards,
Vic

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
2. You can make GOOD use of a cheap table saw (HD has a Ryobi for
$99, B&D has a cheap model also).
3. To cut the door jamb molding, get a Harbor Freight Multifunction
tool, or

Or a miter saw since a lot of cross cuts are needed. In either case,
use a carbide tipped blade. It will need sharpening when the job is
done. Laminate is tough on blades.

Yeah, I tried to do a room with a miter saw. It worked well enough, but,
damnit, there WERE planks that had to be ripped! I soldiered on with the
miter saw and taking planks to the garage where the radial arm saw was
located. Got it done.

For the next, much bigger, room, I bought the cheap table saw and used it
for both trimming and ripping. Much more satisfactory.