news wrote:

although a common misconception, the valve should be
left closed for soldering..........



I used to think that this was the best way too. I reasoned that if the
polymer seals were to flow I'd rather have them do so into the closed
configuration. You may be correct, but lately I've had better luck with
open valves than closed valves but my "experiments" are not well
designed scientific experiments. Experience however has shown that the
most important thing by far is to use a hot enough, and big enough torch
(acetylene) to do the job quickly.

Boden




"Boden" wrote in message
...

Phisherman wrote:


I need to tap in on the main water supply lines for a new bathroom and
decided to install two brass ball valves (leading to the new bathroom)
to make appliance installations easier. My 3/4" ball valves are r858
150 WSP 600 WOG made by Mueller Industries B&K. My question is
about the inner parts that may be damaged by a propane torch. I've
seen plumbers who do not remove the inner parts of a ball valve, but
I've read somewhere that the stem should be removed before soldering
to prevent any heat damage.

If you use a propane torch it will take too long to get the valve hot
enough to flow solder and you may damage the valve. Leave the valve open,
make sure that it is dry, and get in and out quickly. I prefer an
acetylene torch.

Boden