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#1
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For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I
always had trouble at the end of the cutting. Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult. Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders? Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough? Or is this related to the quality of the saw? Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle? Thanks, |
#2
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#3
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On Nov 17, 11:50*am, wrote:
For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I always had trouble at the end of the cutting. Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. *The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. *I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult. Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders? Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough? Or is this related to the quality of the saw? Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle? Thanks, One reason for the bucking could be binding. As you put pressure on the pipe while cutting, you are closing the kerf causing the pipe to grab the blade. Try bracing or wedging the pipe so it doesn't bind. |
#4
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![]() wrote in message ... For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I always had trouble at the end of the cutting. Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult. Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders? Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough? Or is this related to the quality of the saw? Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle? You need to brace at least one "end" of the pipe with something. Just holding the pipe and pulling it hard against the foot of the saw might do it. Or, a brick or board slipped under the pipe so you can push down firmly as you cut. |
#5
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On Nov 17, 10:50*am, wrote:
For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I always had trouble at the end of the cutting. Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. *The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. *I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult. Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders? Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough? Or is this related to the quality of the saw? Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle? Thanks, You are not using the latest design SawzAll. These have a different mechanism from most others on the market. The net effect is a lot less recoil, hence smoother cutting with reduced shaking of the work piece. Read the blurb about it on the MIlwaukee web site for more detail. From personal experience, I upgraded to the 13 Amp model from the older 10 Amp and have used it extensively in a major home rehab. Even one handed cuts were possible on overhead 2 x 10's with little kick back. Well worth the extra $$ IMO. Joe |
#6
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![]() "Joe" wrote in message ... On Nov 17, 10:50 am, wrote: For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I always had trouble at the end of the cutting. Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult. Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders? Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough? Or is this related to the quality of the saw? Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle? Too much downward pressure of the saw's shoe on the pipe may have bowed it, causing the blade to bind in the kerf. |
#7
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On Nov 17, 11:50*am, wrote:
For some reason, when I use a recipricating saw to cut something, I always had trouble at the end of the cutting. Say a PVC pipe that is already in the ground and I made a trench to expose it. *The pipe is 2" in diameter, I exposed enough of the soil to make sure the blade when fully extended would not cut into some stones or pebbles or roots. *I start the cut, no problem, it's ripping through real nice and smooth, but when I am 75% of my way through, the pipe and saw started shaking and vibrating violently to make the cut exceedingly difficult. Now this is probably because the enough of the pipe has been cut so it no longer is "biting" onto the blade hard enough so the blade wanders? Is it because I am not holding it tightly enough? Or is this related to the quality of the saw? Ot should I always cut something from both directions - instead of starting a cut and carry it all the way through, cut it half way then start the cut from the opposing side and meet in the middle? Thanks, Hose clamp a piece of wood to the pipe to keep it stiff, cut through into the wood. Light even pressure enough to keep the chips flowing with the shoe tight to the pipe. |
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