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Default Applying Pliobond - directions on bottle and on package aren't thesame

In this case, looking to apply to running shoes per a recommendation
in the running group.

Bottle says:

Apply Pliobond contact cement on both surfaces. If absorbed apply
additional coats.
Allow cement to almost dry
Hold under pressure 10-15 minutes until dry, preferably overnight

Package says:

To clean dry surfaces apply a thin uniform coast to each surface.
Permit both to dry completely. If one surface is extremely porous,
apply a second coat and also permit to dry. When ready to assemble,
apply an additional coast to either surface and when tacky press
firmly together. Use pressure if possible during final bonding. The
resulting bond permits rapid handling but total cure strength develops
in about 7 days.

Any thoughts from previous experience? How would one apply pressure
when using on running shoes? Someone mentioned using heat during
application, how would that be done?

Thanks for all input
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Default Applying Pliobond - directions on bottle and on package aren'tthe same

On Nov 13, 9:25�pm, James wrote:
In this case, looking to apply to running shoes per a recommendation
in the running group.

Bottle says:

Apply Pliobond contact cement on both surfaces. If absorbed apply
additional coats.
Allow cement to almost dry
Hold under pressure 10-15 minutes until dry, preferably overnight

Package says:

To clean dry surfaces apply a thin uniform coast to each surface.
Permit both to dry completely. If one surface is extremely porous,
apply a second coat and also permit to dry. When ready to assemble,
apply an additional coast to either surface and when tacky press
firmly together. Use pressure if possible during final bonding. �The
resulting bond permits rapid handling but total cure strength develops
in about 7 days.

Any thoughts from previous experience? How would one apply pressure
when using on running shoes? Someone mentioned using heat during
application, how would that be done?

Thanks for all input


Having used plibond daily for many years at work, but not on shoes, on
rubber pads glued to metal.

coat thinly let dry, on both surfaces.

apply thin coat on both surfaces again let almost dry then put
together, the longer the pressure the better.

do in well ventilated area, and let sit oivernite under pressure.

plibond is basic contact cement, its a brand name.

its very good bond, as long as you leave partially dry or it will take
days to dry and stick
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Default Applying Pliobond - directions on bottle and on package aren't the same


"James" wrote in message
...
In this case, looking to apply to running shoes per a recommendation
in the running group.

Bottle says:

Apply Pliobond contact cement on both surfaces. If absorbed apply
additional coats.
Allow cement to almost dry
Hold under pressure 10-15 minutes until dry, preferably overnight

Package says:

To clean dry surfaces apply a thin uniform coast to each surface.
Permit both to dry completely. If one surface is extremely porous,
apply a second coat and also permit to dry. When ready to assemble,
apply an additional coast to either surface and when tacky press
firmly together. Use pressure if possible during final bonding. The
resulting bond permits rapid handling but total cure strength develops
in about 7 days.

Any thoughts from previous experience? How would one apply pressure
when using on running shoes? Someone mentioned using heat during
application, how would that be done?

Thanks for all input


Heat: Hair dryer, mounted 1-3 ft away.

Pressu some sort of vise system.
Possibly a pipe clamp with two pcs of wood, or a bigger 2 pieces of wood,
and 4 C-clamps.
Or, no clamps, two pieces of wood, four 1/4" holes, and some threaded rod,
washers, nuts for tightening. 7/16 wrench will help enormously.

Or 3+ pcs of wood:
The two big pcs for the over all tightening, and an insert pc like an inner
sole, and then a pc of a 2x4 between that and the big pc of wood. Least
deformation of the shoe, best pressure were needed.

I'm assuming you are bonding a sole or sumpn on the shoe?

If just adding pliobond to one surface, with no other surface being bonded,
then the notion of pressure in moot.

Altho, if you insist on pressure with just one surface, you could do exactly
as above, and put paper between the pliobond and wood, and cut away the
paper/let it wear off with use.

Pliobond is sort of hard to get (NYC, even). Where do you get yours?
--
PV'd


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Default Applying Pliobond - directions on bottle and on package aren'tthe same

On Nov 14, 7:20*pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:


Pliobond is sort of hard to get (NYC, even). *Where do you get yours?



At ACE Hardware, though I see it's available online which is where I
would have gone if I hadn't located it locally.
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Default Applying Pliobond - directions on bottle and on package aren'tthe same

On Nov 13, 9:25 pm, James wrote:
In this case, looking to apply to running shoes per a recommendation
in the running group.

Bottle says:

Apply Pliobond contact cement on both surfaces. If absorbed apply
additional coats.
Allow cement to almost dry
Hold under pressure 10-15 minutes until dry, preferably overnight

Package says:

To clean dry surfaces apply a thin uniform coast to each surface.
Permit both to dry completely. If one surface is extremely porous,
apply a second coat and also permit to dry. When ready to assemble,
apply an additional coast to either surface and when tacky press
firmly together. Use pressure if possible during final bonding. The
resulting bond permits rapid handling but total cure strength develops
in about 7 days.

Any thoughts from previous experience? How would one apply pressure
when using on running shoes? Someone mentioned using heat during
application, how would that be done?

Thanks for all input


You can use large rubber bands to hold it together. I use bands that I
made from old bike tubes. Bands of any size can be made by cutting a
tube lengthwise.
You can let the glue set up as long as half an hour before bringing
together.
After mating the surfaces, turn the shoe over and beat on the sole
with a mallet or hammer over the entire surface. This is called
"stitching" in the industry.

Here is an alternate means of repairing without using pressure or
contact cement.
Shoe Goo, Plumber's Goop, RV Goop, Automotive Goop and so on are the
same formula. Buy the cheapest. It sticks very well to clean buffed
rubber. However, it does not wear very well. So find a source of
rubber such as pieces from old shoes, floor mats, or tire shreds. The
best wearing surface I have found is from sliced up tires. You want
pieces no larger than about 3/4" square. They can be of any shape and
can be smaller. Coat the surface to be repaired with a thin layer of
Goop. Then take your small repair pieces and coat each and place it on
the shoe, moving it back and forth to smear the glue. When the area is
"tiled" with pieces no closer than1/8" apart, fill in the missing
space with more Goop. The product dries by solvent evaporation so it
will shrink somewhat. After it sets, you can add more Goop to the
receded areas. Allow two days before running on the shoe. Fumes from
this glue are harmful to breath so work outdoors or take the shoes
outside to dry.
Goop is available at hardware stores and department store hardware
departments. Wal-Mart has the cheapest at about $2.97 for the Plumbing
Goop.
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