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Default new HVAC not cooling

We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?
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Default new HVAC not cooling

On Jun 9, 5:11 pm, wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


Not expert here, but it sounds like the guy is trying to swat you
away, at least for awhile. Exactly how 'cool' does the new unit
actually get the house now, vs what your old one got it to?

I would wait for some good feedback here and get your ducks in a row
before you pressure the AC guy too much more. That way you'll maybe be
able see through some of the smoke screen excuses he might be giving
you.

Good luck. Post how it all gets resolved.

Brian
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Default new HVAC not cooling

wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


I'm in Texas. It's hot here. My house is bigger than yours, and 3 tons
will cool it as low as I want to go.

The "20 degree" rule of thumb is across the A/C. So if your house is
at 100 degrees, the A/C should be able to blow (more or less -- it's
just a rule of thumb, not Gospel) 80 degrees. Then, once the house is
cooled down to 80 degrees, it should be able to blow 60 degrees. Etc.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .
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Default new HVAC not cooling


"CJT" wrote in message
...
wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower
temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can
remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control
where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be
at least as good at reducing the temperature.

I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was
something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the
air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop
across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the
differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think
there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such
as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak.

There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit
won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the
old one did, the new one should.



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Default new HVAC not cooling

On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us...


"CJT" wrote in message
...
wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower
temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity
can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity
control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5
ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature.

I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was
something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of
the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree
drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I
mean the differential between outside and inside temperature.
Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back
to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been
a leak.

There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized
unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside,
but if the old one did, the new one should.


The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you
live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95
degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can
easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we
usually keep it at 75 degrees.


--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
If laughter is the best medicine,
shouldn't we be regulating it?
-------------------------------------------





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Default new HVAC not cooling

Wayne,

Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be
able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living
space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months?
Thanks,

Smarty


"Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message
6.120...
On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us...


"CJT" wrote in message
...
wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower
temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity
can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity
control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5
ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature.

I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was
something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of
the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree
drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I
mean the differential between outside and inside temperature.
Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back
to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been
a leak.

There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized
unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside,
but if the old one did, the new one should.


The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you
live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with
95
degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can
easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we
usually keep it at 75 degrees.


--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
If laughter is the best medicine,
shouldn't we be regulating it?
-------------------------------------------




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It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. House is 1500 sq. ft. The walls have a
6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. The house is 1-
1/2 years old. We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. year round.
It's also an all-electric home.

Wayne...

On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us...

Wayne,

Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to
be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of
living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer
months? Thanks,

Smarty


"Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message
6.120...
On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us...


"CJT" wrote in message
...
wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the
house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below
78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said
that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the
fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse.
Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the
house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can
you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling
the house better than it's doing now?

Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower
temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher
capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like
humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good,
the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature.

I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was
something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of
the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree
drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I
mean the differential between outside and inside temperature.
Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him
back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may
have been a leak.

There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized
unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside,
but if the old one did, the new one should.


The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where
you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy
with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential.
We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day,
although we usually keep it at 75 degrees.


--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it?
-------------------------------------------








--
Wayne Boatwright
-------------------------------------------
Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII)
-------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
He has the right to criticize who has
the heart to help. - A. Lincoln
-------------------------------------------



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Default new HVAC not cooling


wrote in message
...
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


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Default new HVAC not cooling

"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my
problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


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Default new HVAC not cooling

"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe:

"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help
for my problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on
there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike




It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that.


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Red Green wrote in message ...
"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe:

"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of

help
for my problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on
there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike




It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that.


NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup.
This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't.

Cheri


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Very good point. I've lurked about over there. Those guys are assholes.

s


"Cheri" gserviceatinreachdotcom wrote in message
. ..

NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup.
This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't.

Cheri




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Default new HVAC not cooling

"Cheri" gserviceatinreachdotcom wrote in
:


Red Green wrote in message ...
"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe:

"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of

help
for my problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on
there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike



It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that.


NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup.
This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't.

Cheri



Oh, thanks for the clarification Cheri. That was nice & helpful :-)
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"Cheri" gserviceatinreachdotcom wrote in message
. ..

Red Green wrote in message ...
"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe:

"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of

help
for my problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on
there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike



It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that.


NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup.
This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't.

Cheri

Hi Cheri,
I probably should have posted a warning (it did cross my mind).
I still think they would get him a good answer. It's like like much of
Usenet, a bunch of good people and then a couple that seem to get their
self esteem by calling other people names and ridiculing them for not
knowing the answer to their question.
Thanks, Mike
Mike


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dm440c wrote in message 857011a62794a@uwe...
"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help

for my
problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on

there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


Don't do it, unless you like to be abused. :-)

Cheri




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Default new HVAC not cooling


"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in message news:857011a62794a@uwe...
"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for
my
problem, too


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


It's a newsgroup, just like this one.
Mike


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amdx wrote:

wrote in message
...
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


Don't waste your time with alt.hvac; it's a newsgroup filled with
also-rans who take out their frustrations on "homemoaners"

I haven't visited hvac-talk.com in quite a while but the following forum
there, frequented by HVAC pros helpful to homeowners, likely would be a
good source of info:

http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1
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"Erma1ina" wrote in message
...
amdx wrote:

wrote in message
...
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on
there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


Don't waste your time with alt.hvac; it's a newsgroup filled with
also-rans who take out their frustrations on "homemoaners"

I haven't visited hvac-talk.com in quite a while but the following forum
there, frequented by HVAC pros helpful to homeowners, likely would be a
good source of info:

http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1



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Default new HVAC not cooling


I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on
there,
I think you'll get good answer.
Mike


Don't waste your time with alt.hvac; it's a newsgroup filled with
also-rans who take out their frustrations on "homemoaners"

I haven't visited hvac-talk.com in quite a while but the following forum
there, frequented by HVAC pros helpful to homeowners, likely would be a
good source of info:

http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1


I think his questions is good for aly.hvac. The pros don't like it when
another one does a poor installation. They will tell him what needs to be
done.
Mike


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wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


Got a thermometer? Put it in front of the AC air intake. Record the number.

Now put the thermometer in an outlet vent. Record the number.

That's the 20 degrees difference he's talking about. Outside temperature is
irrelevant.

Even if it's 100° outside, you should be able to cool your inside to
astonishingly low temperatures (given suitable insulation, leakproofing,
etc.). I've seen ice storage sheds keep blocks frozen with a piddly 1/4 ton
window unit (and two feet of cork on the walls, ceiling, and floor).

Now *IF* you get a 20° differential AND you still can't cool below 76°, then
the heat's getting IN faster than the AC can pump it OUT (insulation, open
doors, etc.).




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2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. Unless you have very high dollar
windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. Should have been 3 or even
3.5 ton.

s


wrote in message
...
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?



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"S. Barker" wrote in message
...
2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. Unless you have very high
dollar windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. Should have been 3
or even 3.5 ton.

s


wrote in message
...

I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).


But a 2 ton did the job before. I do my 2000 sq. ft. house with 2 1/2 ton
no problem.


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Default new HVAC not cooling

I totally missed that input point. Strike my reply as non-valid.


steve


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news

"S. Barker" wrote in message
...
2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. Unless you have very high
dollar windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. Should have been 3
or even 3.5 ton.

s


wrote in message
...

I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).


But a 2 ton did the job before. I do my 2000 sq. ft. house with 2 1/2 ton
no problem.



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Default new HVAC not cooling

On Jun 9, 6:32*pm, "S. Barker" wrote:
2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. *Unless you have very high dollar
windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. *Should have been 3 or even
3.5 ton.

s

wrote in message

...



We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.


We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).


What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


we have 3 ton and space pack cooling a 3500 sq ft 90 yr old original
window, poorly to non insulated all original leaker. It was even
guarnteed in writing by the installer to give a 30f drop which it
exceeded when it reached 113f here in chgo after it was installed 20
years ago. I dont know where you get your numbers.
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Default new HVAC not cooling

On Jun 9, 4:11*pm, wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


If you had 2 ton and it cooled you fine before why did he want to put
in a more expensive 2.5 ton and why did you agree to it, a larger unit
will run less, but remove less humidity and that you didnt want, but
to the point of cooling something must be wrong on the install if you
are sure you had 2 ton before and it cooled better. The new larger
unit wont remove as much humidity since it will run less, if it was
put in right.


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Default new HVAC not cooling

On Jun 9, 4:11*pm, wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


Did you pull a permit, is one required in your area, what does the
contract say because inspectors help by checking work for free. If I
had a non performing , wrongly oversized AC that will now leave me
more humid I would make the installer put in the right unit, I bet he
didnt do a load calc in writing, which is to your benefit if you did
have 2 ton before, You hired a crooked hack if he oversized you, as
you state you cooled before with 2 ton.
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Default new HVAC not cooling

wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week
we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s
nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house.
The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78
degrees. Our older unit never had this problem.

We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that
was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20
degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact
that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something
doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine
and that unit was smaller (2 ton).

What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you
guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the
house better than it's doing now?


A couple of things you can check.
1. I figure when they upgraded you to a 2.5-ton from a 2-ton condensing unit
they replaced the evaporator coil. If so, look around the system and see if
you have any air leaks.
2. The system may have never been charged properly in the first place. I
would have another service tech out from another company come out double
check their work and see if you need further work. Just have him check the
system, labor only, and if he finds problems then contact the company that
did the work.

--
Moe Jones
http://www.MoeJones.info



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