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new HVAC not cooling
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5
ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? |
new HVAC not cooling
On Jun 9, 5:11 pm, wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Not expert here, but it sounds like the guy is trying to swat you away, at least for awhile. Exactly how 'cool' does the new unit actually get the house now, vs what your old one got it to? I would wait for some good feedback here and get your ducks in a row before you pressure the AC guy too much more. That way you'll maybe be able see through some of the smoke screen excuses he might be giving you. Good luck. Post how it all gets resolved. Brian |
new HVAC not cooling
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new HVAC not cooling
wrote in message ... We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike |
new HVAC not cooling
"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my
problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike |
new HVAC not cooling
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new HVAC not cooling
"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe:
"alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that. |
new HVAC not cooling
2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. Unless you have very high dollar
windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. Should have been 3 or even 3.5 ton. s wrote in message ... We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? |
new HVAC not cooling
Red Green wrote in message ... "dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe: "alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that. NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup. This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't. Cheri |
new HVAC not cooling
dm440c wrote in message 857011a62794a@uwe... "alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike Don't do it, unless you like to be abused. :-) Cheri |
new HVAC not cooling
Very good point. I've lurked about over there. Those guys are assholes.
s "Cheri" gserviceatinreachdotcom wrote in message . .. NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup. This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't. Cheri |
new HVAC not cooling
amdx wrote:
wrote in message ... We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike Don't waste your time with alt.hvac; it's a newsgroup filled with also-rans who take out their frustrations on "homemoaners" ;) I haven't visited hvac-talk.com in quite a while but the following forum there, frequented by HVAC pros helpful to homeowners, likely would be a good source of info: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 |
new HVAC not cooling
"Cheri" gserviceatinreachdotcom wrote in
: Red Green wrote in message ... "dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe: "alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that. NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup. This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't. Cheri Oh, thanks for the clarification Cheri. That was nice & helpful :-) |
new HVAC not cooling
"CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. |
new HVAC not cooling
"S. Barker" wrote in message ... 2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. Unless you have very high dollar windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. Should have been 3 or even 3.5 ton. s wrote in message ... I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). But a 2 ton did the job before. I do my 2000 sq. ft. house with 2 1/2 ton no problem. |
new HVAC not cooling
I totally missed that input point. Strike my reply as non-valid.
steve "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message ... "S. Barker" wrote in message ... 2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. Unless you have very high dollar windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. Should have been 3 or even 3.5 ton. s wrote in message ... I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). But a 2 ton did the job before. I do my 2000 sq. ft. house with 2 1/2 ton no problem. |
new HVAC not cooling
On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us...
"CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
On Jun 9, 4:11*pm, wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? If you had 2 ton and it cooled you fine before why did he want to put in a more expensive 2.5 ton and why did you agree to it, a larger unit will run less, but remove less humidity and that you didnt want, but to the point of cooling something must be wrong on the install if you are sure you had 2 ton before and it cooled better. The new larger unit wont remove as much humidity since it will run less, if it was put in right. |
new HVAC not cooling
"dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in message news:857011a62794a@uwe... "alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike It's a newsgroup, just like this one. Mike |
new HVAC not cooling
"Cheri" gserviceatinreachdotcom wrote in message . .. Red Green wrote in message ... "dm440c" u44157@uwe wrote in news:857011a62794a@uwe: "alt.hvac" ?? is that a website? I'd like to get that level of help for my problem, too I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike It's a newsgroup just like this one. "alt." should tell you that. NO, it's not a newsgroup just like this one, though it is a newsgroup. This one has nice, helpful people posting, that one doesn't. Cheri Hi Cheri, I probably should have posted a warning (it did cross my mind). I still think they would get him a good answer. It's like like much of Usenet, a bunch of good people and then a couple that seem to get their self esteem by calling other people names and ridiculing them for not knowing the answer to their question. Thanks, Mike Mike |
new HVAC not cooling
On Jun 9, 6:32*pm, "S. Barker" wrote:
2.5 ton is not big enough for 1500 sq. ft. *Unless you have very high dollar windows and are super insulated with 6" walls. *Should have been 3 or even 3.5 ton. s wrote in message ... We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - we have 3 ton and space pack cooling a 3500 sq ft 90 yr old original window, poorly to non insulated all original leaker. It was even guarnteed in writing by the installer to give a 30f drop which it exceeded when it reached 113f here in chgo after it was installed 20 years ago. I dont know where you get your numbers. |
new HVAC not cooling
On Jun 9, 4:11*pm, wrote:
We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Did you pull a permit, is one required in your area, what does the contract say because inspectors help by checking work for free. If I had a non performing , wrongly oversized AC that will now leave me more humid I would make the installer put in the right unit, I bet he didnt do a load calc in writing, which is to your benefit if you did have 2 ton before, You hired a crooked hack if he oversized you, as you state you cooled before with 2 ton. |
new HVAC not cooling
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new HVAC not cooling
Wayne,
Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
"Erma1ina" wrote in message ... amdx wrote: wrote in message ... We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike Don't waste your time with alt.hvac; it's a newsgroup filled with also-rans who take out their frustrations on "homemoaners" ;) I haven't visited hvac-talk.com in quite a while but the following forum there, frequented by HVAC pros helpful to homeowners, likely would be a good source of info: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 |
new HVAC not cooling
I'd run this question over on alt.hvac Lots of professionals on there, I think you'll get good answer. Mike Don't waste your time with alt.hvac; it's a newsgroup filled with also-rans who take out their frustrations on "homemoaners" ;) I haven't visited hvac-talk.com in quite a while but the following forum there, frequented by HVAC pros helpful to homeowners, likely would be a good source of info: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 I think his questions is good for aly.hvac. The pros don't like it when another one does a poor installation. They will tell him what needs to be done. Mike |
new HVAC not cooling
It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. House is 1500 sq. ft. The walls have a
6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. The house is 1- 1/2 years old. We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- He has the right to criticize who has the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
Check the basics first. See if the pipe leaving the compressor is cold
and sweating, if it is, its probably charged right. Also check to see if some ducts were closed inadverdantly. Was there a new air handler put in too? Its possible the fan speed has changed. Also check if your filters are clean. |
new HVAC not cooling
That is a lot smaller than I would have guessed. I too am in a 1500 square
foot house, but in the northeast, have 3 tons of a/c, and probably average about the same electricty cost as you do, but I have a 60 year old house with much less insulation and never need to pull the temperature down more than about 25 degrees, usually only 15 degrees. I also have a hefty winter gas bill for heating. I would have imagined that Phoenix was a lot more tonnage of a/c but apparently not. Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. House is 1500 sq. ft. The walls have a 6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. The house is 1- 1/2 years old. We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- He has the right to criticize who has the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
I'd be curious as to what material you were ripped off for that claimed R-50
in five and a half inches of wall.... do tell.... s "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. House is 1500 sq. ft. The walls have a 6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. The house is 1- 1/2 years old. We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- He has the right to criticize who has the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
On Jun 11, 9:49*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: The pipe leaving the compressor should be about 200 degrees F. When the system is running. Or even hotter. Fortunately, it's encased, and you can't touch it unless you remove access panels. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . "Mikepier" wrote in message ... Check the basics first. See if the pipe leaving the compressor is cold and sweating, if it is, its probably charged right. Also check to see if some ducts were closed inadverdantly. Was there a new air handler put in too? Its possible the fan speed has changed. Also check if your filters are clean. Sorry, I meant the pipe going into the compressor should be cold The pipe could also be checked at the air handler. |
new HVAC not cooling
Not always. This may be the case with r22, but with 410a, the line barely
feels warm at all. s "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... The pipe leaving the compressor should be about 200 degrees F. When the system is running. Or even hotter. Fortunately, it's encased, and you can't touch it unless you remove access panels. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org . "Mikepier" wrote in message ... Check the basics first. See if the pipe leaving the compressor is cold and sweating, if it is, its probably charged right. Also check to see if some ducts were closed inadverdantly. Was there a new air handler put in too? Its possible the fan speed has changed. Also check if your filters are clean. |
new HVAC not cooling
The major difference is that my house is new and heavily insulated.
Similar size houses here that are older and less insulated might need up to a 5 ton unit. On Wed 11 Jun 2008 04:38:31a, Smarty told us... That is a lot smaller than I would have guessed. I too am in a 1500 square foot house, but in the northeast, have 3 tons of a/c, and probably average about the same electricty cost as you do, but I have a 60 year old house with much less insulation and never need to pull the temperature down more than about 25 degrees, usually only 15 degrees. I also have a hefty winter gas bill for heating. I would have imagined that Phoenix was a lot more tonnage of a/c but apparently not. Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. House is 1500 sq. ft. The walls have a 6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. The house is 1- 1/2 years old. We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- He has the right to criticize who has the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Wednesday, 06(VI)/11(XI)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- 43% of all statistics are worthless. ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
On Wed 11 Jun 2008 05:55:04a, S. Barker told us...
I'd be curious as to what material you were ripped off for that claimed R-50 in five and a half inches of wall.... do tell.... s I have no idea what it is. Only a certification of the builder that the insulation was rated at R50. "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. House is 1500 sq. ft. The walls have a 6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. The house is 1- 1/2 years old. We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? Check the temperature of the air entering and leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. We live in the Phoenix area. Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- He has the right to criticize who has the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Wednesday, 06(VI)/11(XI)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- All the world's a stage, and .....line!.......LINE!! ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
On Jun 11, 11:15*pm, Wayne Boatwright wrote:
On Wed 11 Jun 2008 05:55:04a, S. Barker told us... I'd be curious as to what material you were ripped off for that claimed R-50 in five and a half inches of wall.... do tell.... s I have no idea what it is. *Only a certification of the builder that the insulation was rated at R50. "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 86.120... It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. *House is 1500 sq. ft. *The walls have a 6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. *The house is *1- 1/2 years old. *We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. *year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message .186.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. *If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. *Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. *Proper sizing gets into things like humidity control where to big is no good. *If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. *Are the duct leaking? Was something left undone or is airflow blocked? *Check the temperature of the air entering and *leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? *By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. *There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. *At 100 degrees, a properly sized unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. *We live in the Phoenix area. *Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- * * * * * * Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- * * Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- * * If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- * * * * * * Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- * * Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- * He has the right to criticize who has * * *the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- -- * * * * * * *Wayne Boatwright * * * * * * ------------------------------------------- * * *Wednesday, 06(VI)/11(XI)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- * * * *All the world's a stage, and * * * * * * * * .....line!.......LINE!! * * * * * -------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You better look into the "certification" because I think you are entitled to a refund and have an easy claim. I know of no foam that is more than R 7.2" new, before stabilising at near R 6.7". I would like to know of any product that is better than R 7.2" foam, at even 6" thick that is only R 43.2 , 5.5" of R 6.7 foam = R 36.85. There are also different foams which range from R 4 and up. Maybe he put in something like "reflextic" but I dont believe their "independant" rating and question product life. In reality I dont see how a wall 6" total, with 5.5" of the best product on the market could be advertised at maybe more than R 43. I would like to buy a R 50 wall, so would anybody. |
new HVAC not cooling
On Thu 12 Jun 2008 06:22:36a, ransley told us...
On Jun 11, 11:15*pm, Wayne Boatwright wrote: On Wed 11 Jun 2008 05:55:04a, S. Barker told us... I'd be curious as to what material you were ripped off for that claimed R-50 in five and a half inches of wall.... do tell.... s I have no idea what it is. *Only a certification of the builder that the insulation was rated at R50. "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... It's a 3 ton high efficiency unit. *House is 1500 sq. ft. *The wall s have a 6" insulation space with R50 insulation, as does the roof. *Th e house is *1- 1/2 years old. *We're on "averaged billing" which runs $165/mo. *year round. It's also an all-electric home. Wayne... On Tue 10 Jun 2008 06:56:12a, Smarty told us... Wayne, Your reply makes me curious........how many tons of a/c do you need to be able to get a 50 degree temperature drop for how many square feet of living space? What would be a typical electric bill during the summer months? Thanks, Smarty "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... On Mon 09 Jun 2008 06:52:50p, Edwin Pawlowski told us... "CJT" wrote in message ... wrote: We recently had a contractor install a new unit (a Bryant Puron 2.5 ton in a 1500sq/ft 3br/2ba home) a couple of months ago. This week we've had some really warm weather with temperatures in the 90s nearing 100 degrees. The problem is the unit is not cooling the house. The unit runs all day and doesn't drop the temperature below 78 degrees. Our older unit never had this problem. We called the contractor that installed the unit out and he said that was normal. He told us that these units won't cool more than 20 degrees below the ambient air temperature. He also said that the fact that our ducts are in the celing makes this problem worse. Something doesn't sound right here. I mean, our old unit cooled the house fine and that unit was smaller (2 ton). What's going on here? Is he correct, ignorant or simply lying? Can you guys educate me on this? Should this unit be capable of cooling the house better than it's doing now? Btu is Btu. *If the new unit is larger, it should cool to a lower temperature than the old one. *Proper sizing aside, the higher capacity can remove more heat. *Proper sizing gets into things lik e humidity control where to big is no good. *If the 2 ton unit was good, the 2.5 ton should be at least as good at reducing the temperature. I'd do a quick check of the basics first. *Are the duct leaking? W as something left undone or is airflow blocked? *Check the temperatur e of the air entering and *leaving the AC. It should have about a 20 degree drop across the coil. Cooler at night with no sun load? *By cooler, I mean the differential between outside and inside temperature. Personally, I think there is a problem and since it is new, get him back to check things, such as the pressures in the unit. *There may have been a leak. There is a lower limit, of course. *At 100 degrees, a properly siz ed unit won't get it much more than 20 to 25 degrees cooler than outside, but if the old one did, the new one should. The design and sizing of a system is also somewhat dependent on where you live. *We live in the Phoenix area. *Few people here would be happy with 95 degrees inside on a 120 degree day, a 25 degree differential. We can easily cool our house down to 70 degrees on a 120 degree day, although we usually keep it at 75 degrees. -- * * * * * * Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- * * Monday, 06(VI)/09(IX)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- * * If laughter is the best medicine, shouldn't we be regulating it? ------------------------------------------- -- * * * * * * Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- * * Tuesday, 06(VI)/10(X)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- * He has the right to criticize who has * * *the heart to help. - A. Lincoln ------------------------------------------- -- * * * * * * *Wayne Boatwright * * * * * * ------------------------------------------- * * *Wednesday, 06(VI)/11(XI)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- * * * *All the world's a stage, and * * * * * * * * .....line!.......LINE!! * * * * * -------------------------------------------- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You better look into the "certification" because I think you are entitled to a refund and have an easy claim. I know of no foam that is more than R 7.2" new, before stabilising at near R 6.7". I would like to know of any product that is better than R 7.2" foam, at even 6" thick that is only R 43.2 , 5.5" of R 6.7 foam = R 36.85. There are also different foams which range from R 4 and up. Maybe he put in something like "reflextic" but I dont believe their "independant" rating and question product life. In reality I dont see how a wall 6" total, with 5.5" of the best product on the market could be advertised at maybe more than R 43. I would like to buy a R 50 wall, so would anybody. As I said, I have no idea, and I don't even know if it's foam or another material. In any event, it's the best insulated house we've ever owned. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- Thursday, 06(VI)/12(XII)/08(MMVIII) ------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- What if the purpose of intelligent life is only to get all that carbon back into the ecosystem? ------------------------------------------- |
new HVAC not cooling
Beats me. I didn't design the ****. I have 3 systems with 410a and all of
them just barely feel warm right out of the outdoor unit, and they all work great. s "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ... How does the system release heat, if the discharge refrigerant is "barely feels warm"? -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org |
new HVAC not cooling
He lied. It takes about a foot of cellulose in an attic to get R-49.
There's no way to get it in a wall. s "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... I have no idea what it is. Only a certification of the builder that the insulation was rated at R50. "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message |
new HVAC not cooling
or so you've been told anyway.....
s "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message 6.120... In any event, it's the best insulated house we've ever owned. -- Wayne Boatwright ------------------------------------------- |
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