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#1
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Guys, quick, is this a load bearing wall?
To me it looks like it can't be a load bearing wall with an alcove
directly above it. I want to put in a pocket door that will slide almost all the way to the black vent pipe. The header is what I'm trying to find out about. http://usera.imagecave.com/ronnald/wall.jpg Thanks! |
#3
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Guys, quick, is this a load bearing wall?
According to Mike Paulsen :
wrote: I'm assuming it's a load bearing wall. In which I'll have to use a 30" pocket door now, wanted 32 though.. What size header do I use? Here is my new sketch http://usera.imagecave.com/ronnald/wall1.jpg If this turns out impossible, I'll put in a swing door, although I'd rather go with pocket. What's on the other side of the wall you tore open? You could leave the current framing alone and steal some space from that room for the pocket door. This also guarantees that the pocket door frame won't bow inwards. [He says after installing a pocket door (3.5" framing) that has about a 1/4" inward bow on one side, that I'm trying to figure out how to correct. Perhaps I should have aimed for 5.5" framing...] -- Chris Lewis, Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
#4
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Guys, quick, is this a load bearing wall?
On Jan 22, 1:08*pm, wrote:
On Jan 22, 11:07*am, wrote: I'm assuming it's a load bearing wall. In which I'll have to use a 30" pocket door now, wanted 32 though.. What size header do I use? Here is my new sketchhttp://usera.imagecave.com/ronnald/wall1.jpg If this turns out impossible, I'll put in a swing door, although I'd rather go with pocket. Green = header, yellow is jack stud and red is king studs. Have you ever done this, just cutting out everthing to get a header in place is risky, you should have support jacks in place, but where. Once a guy hired me to remove an attic wall, I told him to get an architect or engineer, he did, I removed the wall, in 30 minutes down came the ceiling and beams, he paid me alot extra to fix it all. What is below the 4x4, a basement, if you move the support over what holds it up from below, it needs a support too. |
#5
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Guys, quick, is this a load bearing wall?
On Jan 22, 2:09*pm, ransley wrote:
On Jan 22, 1:08*pm, wrote: On Jan 22, 11:07*am, wrote: I'm assuming it's a load bearing wall. In which I'll have to use a 30" pocket door now, wanted 32 though.. What size header do I use? Here is my new sketchhttp://usera.imagecave.com/ronnald/wall1.jpg If this turns out impossible, I'll put in a swing door, although I'd rather go with pocket. Green = header, yellow is jack stud and red is king studs. Have you ever done this, just cutting out everthing to get a header in place is risky, you should have support jacks in place, but where. Once a guy hired me to remove an attic wall, I told him to get an architect or engineer, he did, I removed the wall, in 30 minutes down came the ceiling and beams, he paid me alot extra to fix it all. What is below the 4x4, a basement, if you move the support over what holds it up from below, it needs a support too. Yup, done it before. This time it's too questionable, so I'm going with a swing door. I agree, that it's too much at stake just for a pocket door. Sorry I couldn't get back earlier. I've reconsidered and will be installing a 32" prehung door. I appreciate everyones help with this. Even after much observation in the attic, it's was questionable if it was a non-load bearing, which in case I'll assume load bearing to be safe. Thanks guys! |
#6
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Guys, quick, is this a load bearing wall?
On Jan 22, 11:22*am, BobK207 wrote:
On Jan 22, 10:50 am, wrote: On Jan 22, 10:47 am, ransley wrote: On Jan 22, 12:07 pm, wrote: To me it looks like it can't be a load bearing wall with an alcove directly above it. I want to put in a pocket door that will slide almost all the way to the black vent pipe. The header is what I'm trying to find out about. http://usera.imagecave.com/ronnald/wall.jpg Thanks! Are you only taking out the middle 2x4, because I see 4x4s surrounding everything for support I'm going to have to take out the end 4x4. A pocket door will be sliding in there. OP- I'm going to have to take out the end 4x4 That wall (esp the end 4x4) supports the top plate of the wall, which supports the that 6x spanning the hall. The end of the 6x catches the corner features above it. Builders tend not to put in unneeded timber. That 4x & 6x are there for a reason, if you remove the 4x you've got to add something to do what it was doing. OR perhaps the 4x is not necessary but (I doubt it) My suggestion is use regular doors to close the hall OR hide the pocket doors in the bedroom(?) that is behind the demo'd wall. You'll loose about 5" out of it but your life will be a whole lot easier. removing that 4x is a risky choice. cheers Bob- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agree. It's bathtub on the otherside. I'm installing a swing door. I'll post a pic when finished. Thanks for the help though! |
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