In article , wrote:

On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 16:34:20 -0600, Steve IA
wrote:

Other answers:
The REC said they had many neutral lines down yet and they were
repairing them as the could, thus the 1 line vs. 2 line question.

How can you have power without a neutral?
Impossible !!!!!
You cant just rely on the ground rods.

That alone could make the electronics in your meter go whacky.

Hmmmm, I would seem that if one were in a USA type Distribution System,
AND one had 120/240 Single Phase, and the Neutral was open, that ALL
the 240 Vac Loads would still work, just Peachie..... Or, if one
had a 240/120 Vac Transformer in their System, again if the Feed Neutral
was open, they would still have 120 Vac at the output of the
Transformer..... Or, if one was feed 3 Phase Delta, no Neutral is
REQUIRED......

Does that meet your Power requirement??? Impossible!!!!! NOT.....

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 01:28:09 -0500, Neon John wrote:

let's go back to that Stefan-Boltzmann calculator and do a little
math.

Forget Stefan-Boltzmann and look at the volts, amps and ohms *that* is
what matters.



--

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 12:24:25 -0500, wrote:

What you are totally missing is why we buy power in the first place.
We buy it to do work. If my AC is getting less power, it has to work
longer to cool the same space. Since air conditioning is about 1/2 to
3/4 of the total power consumed in the summer, that becomes a
significant issue. If a light burns a little less, or the pool pump
runs a little slower, I might not notice it or bother to compensate
for it. However, the thermostat on the AC compensates automatically,
and the AC runs longer without my doing anything. Therefore, the
power wasted in heating the wiring has to be made up by using an
equivalent amount of power to allow the AC to do its work.

If utility companies (worldwide) want to reduce demand they have three
standard approaches - although not all are used in every country.

They either:

1) dynamically constrain demand from commercial users (AC/heating
setpoint changes for instance)

2) drop the volts at the consumers point of service by transformer
tapping at the HV-Distribution voltage transformer

3) block load shed.

A resistive joint upstream of your supply simply drops volts but
doesn't EVER make your local meter turn faster by increasing your
instantaneous power consumption.

A resistive joint, of the magnitude that doesn't set fire to your
house makes bugger all difference to your power consumption.


--

On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 22:47:37 +0000, Mike wrote:

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 01:28:09 -0500, Neon John wrote:

let's go back to that Stefan-Boltzmann calculator and do a little
math.

Forget Stefan-Boltzmann and look at the volts, amps and ohms *that* is
what matters.

Actually, it is a good fire, a cold one, and a suitable wench that
matters.

On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 22:48:34 +0000, Mike wrote:

A resistive joint, of the magnitude that doesn't set fire to your
house makes bugger all difference to your power consumption.

Clinton already talked about resisting joints. Old news. Re-read my
second post for comprehension. I'm beginning to understand why N-J
tends to be abrupt and abrasive.

If your premise were true, then we would have trolley cars that were
fed 600 vdc and operated fine even 15 miles from the power source.

Tell yah what, big boy. Stick a few 100 watt light bulbs upstream of
your load. You might get illuminated.

"Mike" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 12:24:25 -0500, wrote:

What you are totally missing is why we buy power in the first place.
We buy it to do work. If my AC is getting less power, it has to work
longer to cool the same space. Since air conditioning is about 1/2 to
3/4 of the total power consumed in the summer, that becomes a
significant issue. If a light burns a little less, or the pool pump
runs a little slower, I might not notice it or bother to compensate
for it. However, the thermostat on the AC compensates automatically,
and the AC runs longer without my doing anything. Therefore, the
power wasted in heating the wiring has to be made up by using an
equivalent amount of power to allow the AC to do its work.

If utility companies (worldwide) want to reduce demand they have three
standard approaches - although not all are used in every country.

They either:

1) dynamically constrain demand from commercial users (AC/heating
setpoint changes for instance)

2) drop the volts at the consumers point of service by transformer
tapping at the HV-Distribution voltage transformer

3) block load shed.

A resistive joint upstream of your supply simply drops volts but
doesn't EVER make your local meter turn faster by increasing your
instantaneous power consumption.

A resistive joint, of the magnitude that doesn't set fire to your
house makes bugger all difference to your power consumption.





Hey, anybody know that formula that goes like

P equals I over E or something like that