I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay

You've probably got an open circuit. Try removing the fixture and testing
each wire to ground


"Reddwarf" wrote in message
...
I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay

On Jan 2, 6:44*pm, Reddwarf wrote:
I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay

Its bad wiring at some point. Dirty or lose connections at the
junction box or at the breaker/fuse box. Or perhaps a bad breaker.
You can check the voltage back at the breaker box if you know how to
keep from electrocuting yourself. If its good there you can trace it
through the junction boxes or the throw switch. Somewhere you have a
bad connection. You have to trace it down. Also do you have a dimmer
somewhere?
That would do it also.

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 18:44:57 -0800 (PST), Reddwarf
wrote:

I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay

Let me guess.....
You got one of those old round florescent fixtures that were so
popular in the 1940's and early 50's. The heat above this fixture,
from the old iron core ballast caused the wiring to burn up and you no
longer have any neutral connection. What you are seeing is bleed
through from the ballast.

First off, replace the fixture with something new. Then rewire all
burnt cables. Replace the switch at the same time. Then, go into the
basement and replace the old plug-fuse box with some modern breakers.
I'd recommend a licensed electrician for this part of the job, if not
the whole job. You should be back to normal lighting.



PS. The size of the house has no effect on the voltage. Big houses
and small houses all have 120volts (or close to that).

PS2. Even if you wanted to save that old round florescent fixture,
(and I know you love it), you can not find bulbs for them anymore.

IT

On Jan 2, 9:44*pm, Reddwarf wrote:
I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay

Thanks for the many responses, this has given me food for thought -
and work for the weekend...

Reddwarf wrote:
I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....


No. A reading of 120V = okay. A reading of 0 to 90 or so means zero volts.

The 33v or 18v is simply your meter lying to you.

Don't believe me? Stick your tongue on the wire. You'll be okay.

Get an analog volt meter. I think you'll find drastically different reading
than what you're seeing on the digital. Then ask again.


s


"Reddwarf" wrote in message
...
I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay

S. Barker wrote:
Get an analog volt meter. I think you'll find drastically different reading
than what you're seeing on the digital. Then ask again.


s


"Reddwarf" wrote in message
...

I just purchased a home, and in the kitchen is a light that doesn't
work (there are others, with their own switches - that work)

the light that doesn't work has 33v going to it when I tested it with
a multimeter... if I flip the switch, it drops to like 18v. (i'm
testing the bulb holder) does anyone know what causes this? I haven't
looked much further down the line and traced the wiring... but I
thought someone might have some idea as to what causes this. i figured
in a house this small, it's either going to read 120v - or 0....

Thanks folks...

- Jay





Or, just wire a 6 watt night light in parallel with a digital meter's
test leads and see if you still measure those "lower" voltages.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.