hi,

I'm redoing my floor in the basement. Basically on the concrete slab we put a .006 vapor barrier and then the 2x3 on which will be installed 2 layers of 5/8" plywood. The slab is not leveled so basically all the 2x3's are on shingles/shims. We're using tapcon screws through the 2x3 and the shingle into the concrete.

QUESTION: every how many inches/feet are we supposed to support the 2x3 with a shingle and a screw?

(the 2x3 are spaced every 16 inches and on top there will be 2 layers of 5/8 plywood placed "perpendicular" to each other)

thanks in advance

greg

On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, greg gstusio[at]hotmail[dot]com wrote:
hi,

I'm redoing my floor in the basement. Basically on the concrete slab we put a .006 vapor barrier and then the 2x3 on which will be installed 2 layers of 5/8" plywood. The slab is not leveled so basically all the 2x3's are on shingles/shims. We're using tapcon screws through the 2x3 and the shingle into the concrete.

QUESTION: every how many inches/feet are we supposed to support the 2x3 with a shingle and a screw?

(the 2x3 are spaced every 16 inches and on top there will be 2 layers of 5/8 plywood placed "perpendicular" to each other)

thanks in advance

greg

Out of respect for the concrete, I'd simply glue the firring strips
down, shimmed as necessary. put the vapor barrier on top and screw and/
or glue the plywood down. We tend to be obsessed with mechanical
fasteners sometimes when a good adhesive will actually do a better
job. Sorry this doesn't answer your question but it seemed like a good
time to present a logical alternative to folks who might be planning
some similar installations.

Joe

On Dec 16, 9:00�pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, greg gstusio[at]hotmail[dot]com wrote:

hi,

I'm redoing my floor in the basement. Basically on the concrete slab we put a .006 vapor barrier and then the 2x3 on which will be installed 2 layers of 5/8" plywood. The slab is not leveled so basically all the 2x3's are on shingles/shims. We're using tapcon screws through the 2x3 and the shingle into the concrete.

QUESTION: every how many inches/feet are we supposed to support the 2x3 with a shingle and a screw?

(the 2x3 are spaced every 16 inches and on top there will be 2 layers of 5/8 plywood placed "perpendicular" to each other)

thanks in advance

greg

Out of respect for the concrete, I'd simply glue the firring strips
down, shimmed as necessary. put the vapor barrier on top and screw and/
or glue the plywood down. We tend to be obsessed with mechanical
fasteners sometimes when a good adhesive will actually do a better
job. Sorry this doesn't answer your question but it seemed like a good
time to present a logical �alternative to folks who might be planning
some similar installations.

Joe

I need to ask does this basement have any water troubles at all? even
the once every 8 years can muck up a newly remodeled basement very bad.

First, don't use spruce or pine construction grade 2 x 3s, a little moisture
and they will quickly rot. Use red cedar, redwood or pressure treated rated
for basements.

You only need a screw to hold the 2 x 3 where needed, probably about every 4
feet, but will depend on what you require to keep the wood in place without
curling. Spacing of the shims can be determined by walking on the 2 x 3s and
see how much it bends.

With 16" spacing of the runners, two layers of 5/8 plywood is overkill. One
layer is all you need. That vapor barrier really should be on top of the 2 x
3s, if you install it on the concrete it can hold moisture under the plastic
sheet as well as on top where it will damage the 2 x 3s. Water will still
leak through the screw holes. Vapor barrier on top of the runners will
protect the plywood which will otherwise be subject to mould from the damp
conditions underneath it.

You may want to install some foam sheeting between the runners for some
insulation, however be sure you do not block any waterflow to the drains, as
any water that does get in the basement needs to be able to run to the
drain.

Screw not nail everything together so that if the worst happens and you have
to lift part of the floor, you can do it relatively easy.

"greg" gstusio[at]hotmail[dot]com wrote in message
...
hi,
I'm redoing my floor in the basement. Basically on the concrete slab we
put a .006 vapor barrier and then the 2x3 on which will be installed 2
layers of 5/8" plywood. The slab is not leveled so basically all the 2x3's
are on shingles/shims. We're using tapcon screws through the 2x3 and the
shingle into the concrete.

QUESTION: every how many inches/feet are we supposed to support the 2x3
with a shingle and a screw?
(the 2x3 are spaced every 16 inches and on top there will be 2 layers of
5/8 plywood placed "perpendicular" to each other)

thanks in advance

greg

Oh pshaw, on Sun 16 Dec 2007 07:00:52p, Joe meant to say...

On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, greg gstusio[at]hotmail[dot]com wrote:
hi,

I'm redoing my floor in the basement. Basically on the concrete slab we
put a .006 vapor barrier and then the 2x3 on which will be installed 2
layers of 5/8" plywood. The slab is not leveled so basically all the
2x3's are on shingles/shims. We're using tapcon screws through the 2x3
and the shingle into the concrete.

QUESTION: every how many inches/feet are we supposed to support the 2x3
with a shingle and a screw?

(the 2x3 are spaced every 16 inches and on top there will be 2 layers
of 5/8 plywood placed "perpendicular" to each other)

thanks in advance

greg

Out of respect for the concrete, I'd simply glue the firring strips
down, shimmed as necessary. put the vapor barrier on top and screw and/
or glue the plywood down. We tend to be obsessed with mechanical
fasteners sometimes when a good adhesive will actually do a better
job. Sorry this doesn't answer your question but it seemed like a good
time to present a logical alternative to folks who might be planning
some similar installations.

Joe


I agree with the glue installation. As far as spacing of the shims, I'm
obssessive enough to put a shim anywhere I see a gap.

--
Wayne Boatwright

Date: Dec(XII) 18(XVIII),2007(MMVII)

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