We have a 10x12 shed next to our house. Not sure of the exact age, but the
house is about 40 years old, and the shed was there when the previous owners
of the house bought it about 14 years ago. Structurally it seems to be in
pretty good shape, no rotting, termites, etc. Certainly good enough for the
lawn mower, yard tools, bikes, etc. I'm not sure of the wood, but it has a
rough, unsurfaced look (stained, not painted). Based on the lack of rot
maybe it is cedar or redwood. It appears that it was a "package" type,
maybe a kit, not a custom build. Inside there is a metal plate that says
"Outhouses" (seriously) "by HouseCraft".

The issue is that we want to paint it. It's a really dark brown, rough
finish that doesn't go with the rest of the house (the house has light cream
colored aluminum siding). It doesn't have much noticeable grain pattern, so
I'm not really interested in preserving the wood pattern. The vertical
boards that make up the surface are individual planks, but it has the look
of T1-11 panels I've seen on other sheds: you have about a 5 inch wide
section then a 1" wide section recessed about ½ inch. Using a roller would
only get the outer surface, and the recessed area would be a lot of brush
work.

Originally I was thinking an HVLP sprayer would be ideal for this. I
currently don't have a compressor, but thought this might be a good chance
to justify one to my wife (new project=new tool, right?). However, from
what I've researched, to do paint spraying you need a lot of air movement
capacity (hence the "HV" part..) and the compressors that seem to be able to
handle it are way beyond my "justification" ability..

To get this done (the painting, not the purchase justification), is there an
option besides painting by hand or buying/ renting a big compressor? What
kind of compressor capacity do you really need for a single user HVLP setup?

One option I've thought about is to just re-surface it with the T1-11
siding. I'd still have to paint, but at least there would be a smoother
surface. that would also take care of some other issues (some warps in the
boards have left slight gaps, there's some knot holes, etc.)

Mike O.

I forgot to mention, we did start to paint a small section (about a couple
of planks wide on the back. The wood soaked up the paint like a sponge, so
we're looking at at least two and probably three coats to get decent
coverage. Putting on new exterior T1-11 panels is starting to look more and
more appealing..


"Mike O" wrote in message
. net...
We have a 10x12 shed next to our house. Not sure of the exact age, but
the house is about 40 years old, and the shed was there when the previous
owners of the house bought it about 14 years ago. Structurally it seems
to be in pretty good shape, no rotting, termites, etc. Certainly good
enough for the lawn mower, yard tools, bikes, etc. I'm not sure of the
wood, but it has a rough, unsurfaced look (stained, not painted). Based
on the lack of rot maybe it is cedar or redwood. It appears that it was a
"package" type, maybe a kit, not a custom build. Inside there is a metal
plate that says "Outhouses" (seriously) "by HouseCraft".

The issue is that we want to paint it. It's a really dark brown, rough
finish that doesn't go with the rest of the house (the house has light
cream colored aluminum siding). It doesn't have much noticeable grain
pattern, so I'm not really interested in preserving the wood pattern. The
vertical boards that make up the surface are individual planks, but it has
the look of T1-11 panels I've seen on other sheds: you have about a 5 inch
wide section then a 1" wide section recessed about ½ inch. Using a roller
would only get the outer surface, and the recessed area would be a lot of
brush work.

Originally I was thinking an HVLP sprayer would be ideal for this. I
currently don't have a compressor, but thought this might be a good chance
to justify one to my wife (new project=new tool, right?). However, from
what I've researched, to do paint spraying you need a lot of air movement
capacity (hence the "HV" part..) and the compressors that seem to be able
to handle it are way beyond my "justification" ability..

To get this done (the painting, not the purchase justification), is there
an option besides painting by hand or buying/ renting a big compressor?
What kind of compressor capacity do you really need for a single user HVLP
setup?

One option I've thought about is to just re-surface it with the T1-11
siding. I'd still have to paint, but at least there would be a smoother
surface. that would also take care of some other issues (some warps in
the boards have left slight gaps, there's some knot holes, etc.)

Mike O.

On Oct 8, 12:41 pm, "Mike O" wrote:
We have a 10x12 shed next to our house. Not sure of the exact age, but the
house is about 40 years old, and the shed was there when the previous owners
of the house bought it about 14 years ago. Structurally it seems to be in
pretty good shape, no rotting, termites, etc. Certainly good enough for the
lawn mower, yard tools, bikes, etc. I'm not sure of the wood, but it has a
rough, unsurfaced look (stained, not painted). Based on the lack of rot
maybe it is cedar or redwood. It appears that it was a "package" type,
maybe a kit, not a custom build. Inside there is a metal plate that says
"Outhouses" (seriously) "by HouseCraft".

The issue is that we want to paint it. It's a really dark brown, rough
finish that doesn't go with the rest of the house (the house has light cream
colored aluminum siding). It doesn't have much noticeable grain pattern, so
I'm not really interested in preserving the wood pattern. The vertical
boards that make up the surface are individual planks, but it has the look
of T1-11 panels I've seen on other sheds: you have about a 5 inch wide
section then a 1" wide section recessed about ½ inch. Using a roller would
only get the outer surface, and the recessed area would be a lot of brush
work.

Originally I was thinking an HVLP sprayer would be ideal for this. I
currently don't have a compressor, but thought this might be a good chance
to justify one to my wife (new project=new tool, right?). However, from
what I've researched, to do paint spraying you need a lot of air movement
capacity (hence the "HV" part..) and the compressors that seem to be able to
handle it are way beyond my "justification" ability..

To get this done (the painting, not the purchase justification), is there an
option besides painting by hand or buying/ renting a big compressor? What
kind of compressor capacity do you really need for a single user HVLP setup?

One option I've thought about is to just re-surface it with the T1-11
siding. I'd still have to paint, but at least there would be a smoother
surface. that would also take care of some other issues (some warps in the
boards have left slight gaps, there's some knot holes, etc.)

Mike O.
..
Suggestion.
Area to be painted. (2 x 8 x 10) + (2 x 8 x 12) plus maybe a couple of
gables each (2 x 10) x 3/2 = 160 + 193 + 30 + miscellaneous trim/door/
window etc.(probably brush work anyway?) of 20 = total of say 400
sq.ft. Coupla gallons?
Sounds, even with the nooks and crannies like maybe a four hour job on
a nice afternoon with brush and roller and perhaps a step ladder?
Possibly no longer than all the effort of dragging around sprayers/
compressors etc. Also overspray with even s slight breeze?
Have somone organised to bring you some coffee, tea, or stronger
libation on a regular basis; and tell you 'how well' it is going.
Great for the ego!
Restained our pine clapboard siding, with a six inch brush, it gets
into the crevices etc. and no problems with over spray, our 60 by 35
house a few years ago. Took a couple of days including rigging some
planks etc to get around window wells. Also a ladder to do two gable
ends above the 8 foot level Age at the time = 71.
This year touched up the white trim on edge of roof/windows etc.
However you may have to do two coats to cover dark brown? The second
coat will go on faster than the first.

terry wrote:
On Oct 8, 12:41 pm, "Mike O" wrote:
We have a 10x12 shed next to our house. ...that we want to paint ...it has the look
of T1-11 panels I've seen on other sheds: you have about a 5 inch wide
section then a 1" wide section recessed about ½ inch. Using a roller would
only get the outer surface, and the recessed area would be a lot of brush
work.
....

Suggestion.
Area to be painted. ...= total of say 400 sq.ft. Coupla gallons?
Sounds, even with the nooks and crannies like maybe a four hour job on
a nice afternoon with brush and roller and perhaps a step ladder?
....
However you may have to do two coats to cover dark brown? The second
coat will go on faster than the first.

Basically agree w/ a couple of additions/modifications...

First, use a primer for the first coat, not the finish paint. Whether
it's oil- or water-based is of little real matter, but using a primer is.

Secondly, a long-nap roller will do wonders at getting the material onto
the rough surface and all you'll need is to overbrush to get it into the
crevices some. As Terry notes, w/ no more area than you have, it's not
that much effort.

Lastly, the amount of material you will use rolling/brushing vs spraying
to get it covered will be less by a fair amount and as you're learning,
there's no way you can get a high-enough decent HVLP kit cheaply enough
to begin to justify it for this alone. If you were to do anything on
the spraying side, I would recommend one of the lower-end Graco units
such as those the Orange Box store carries. They can be had for $300
neighborhood and do good work. But, they don't get you the compressor
you're craving, either! And, unless you're planning on doing the
house and have other uses, it's a fair investment for very small usage.
We used it for the barn "redo" and it was excellent for the
purpose--but that's a 40x68x40-ft ridge height building.

--

"terry" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Oct 8, 12:41 pm, "Mike O" wrote:
We have a 10x12 shed next to our house. Not sure of the exact age, but
the
house is about 40 years old, and the shed was there when the previous
owners
of the house bought it about 14 years ago. Structurally it seems to be in
pretty good shape, no rotting, termites, etc. Certainly good enough for
the
lawn mower, yard tools, bikes, etc. I'm not sure of the wood, but it has
a
rough, unsurfaced look (stained, not painted). Based on the lack of rot
maybe it is cedar or redwood. It appears that it was a "package" type,
maybe a kit, not a custom build. Inside there is a metal plate that says
"Outhouses" (seriously) "by HouseCraft".

The issue is that we want to paint it. It's a really dark brown, rough
finish that doesn't go with the rest of the house (the house has light
cream
colored aluminum siding). It doesn't have much noticeable grain pattern,
so
I'm not really interested in preserving the wood pattern. The vertical
boards that make up the surface are individual planks, but it has the look
of T1-11 panels I've seen on other sheds: you have about a 5 inch wide
section then a 1" wide section recessed about ½ inch. Using a roller
would
only get the outer surface, and the recessed area would be a lot of brush
work.

Originally I was thinking an HVLP sprayer would be ideal for this. I
currently don't have a compressor, but thought this might be a good chance
to justify one to my wife (new project=new tool, right?). However, from
what I've researched, to do paint spraying you need a lot of air movement
capacity (hence the "HV" part..) and the compressors that seem to be able
to
handle it are way beyond my "justification" ability..

To get this done (the painting, not the purchase justification), is there
an
option besides painting by hand or buying/ renting a big compressor?
What
kind of compressor capacity do you really need for a single user HVLP
setup?

One option I've thought about is to just re-surface it with the T1-11
siding. I'd still have to paint, but at least there would be a smoother
surface. that would also take care of some other issues (some warps in
the
boards have left slight gaps, there's some knot holes, etc.)

Mike O.
..
Suggestion.
Area to be painted. (2 x 8 x 10) + (2 x 8 x 12) plus maybe a couple of
gables each (2 x 10) x 3/2 = 160 + 193 + 30 + miscellaneous trim/door/
window etc.(probably brush work anyway?) of 20 = total of say 400
sq.ft. Coupla gallons?
Sounds, even with the nooks and crannies like maybe a four hour job on
a nice afternoon with brush and roller and perhaps a step ladder?
Possibly no longer than all the effort of dragging around sprayers/
compressors etc. Also overspray with even s slight breeze?
Have somone organised to bring you some coffee, tea, or stronger
libation on a regular basis; and tell you 'how well' it is going.
Great for the ego!
Restained our pine clapboard siding, with a six inch brush, it gets
into the crevices etc. and no problems with over spray, our 60 by 35
house a few years ago. Took a couple of days including rigging some
planks etc to get around window wells. Also a ladder to do two gable
ends above the 8 foot level Age at the time = 71.
This year touched up the white trim on edge of roof/windows etc.
However you may have to do two coats to cover dark brown? The second
coat will go on faster than the first.

We started painting a small section, we're definitely looking at at least
two coats, probably more. The wood soaked up the first coat like a sponge.
After looking a little closer, I'm starting to lean toward putting a new
T1-11 surface panels on before painting. I could go with the thinner 3/8"
stuff and just nail it over the existing boards and it would take care of
all the gaps, knotholes, etc, and give it a smoother base for painting (and
reduce the number of coats).

71??.. At 45 I think I'm starting to feel like a real crybaby... Although,
I didn't mention that the painting is in addition to replacing the shed roof
(tear off/replace shingles and maybe some of the roof deck) and probably
replace or at least re-hang the sagging doors.

It may not sound like it from all this stuff I need to do, but it's still a
pretty decent shed and the framing is solid, so it's still easier and
cheaper than replacing the whole thing.

In article , dpb wrote:
First, use a primer for the first coat, not the finish paint. Whether
it's oil- or water-based is of little real matter, but using a primer is.

Secondly, a long-nap roller will do wonders at getting the material onto
the rough surface and all you'll need is to overbrush to get it into the
crevices some. As Terry notes, w/ no more area than you have, it's not
that much effort.

I'd have to agree with this. Start with a good quality primer.
And just slog away with roller and brush. The first coat is
the hardest...

Spray gear will require a significant capital investment and
it will take you a while to learn how to use it effectively.
It's just not worth it on a 400 sq ft job, IMO. Chances are
a brush and roller will do the job faster, cheaper and better.

If you absolutely must have a spray finish, hire someone that
already has the gear and uses it every day. Again, that will
get the job done quickly and without too much cost.

Personally, I don't like the idea of adding a second "skin".
Too much scope for trapped moisture, bugs and even vermin.
Don't create those gaps unless you really have to. In other
words... avoid voids.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On Oct 8, 11:05 am, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article , dpb wrote:
First, use a primer for the first coat, not the finish paint. Whether
it's oil- or water-based is of little real matter, but using a primer is.

Secondly, a long-nap roller will do wonders at getting the material onto
the rough surface and all you'll need is to overbrush to get it into the
crevices some. As Terry notes, w/ no more area than you have, it's not
that much effort.

I'd have to agree with this. Start with a good quality primer.
And just slog away with roller and brush. The first coat is
the hardest...

Spray gear will require a significant capital investment and
it will take you a while to learn how to use it effectively.
It's just not worth it on a 400 sq ft job, IMO. Chances are
a brush and roller will do the job faster, cheaper and better.

If you absolutely must have a spray finish, hire someone that
already has the gear and uses it every day. Again, that will
get the job done quickly and without too much cost.

Personally, I don't like the idea of adding a second "skin".
Too much scope for trapped moisture, bugs and even vermin.
Don't create those gaps unless you really have to. In other
words... avoid voids.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
|http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It was most likely stained first, restaining is a good way to go, use
a solid color stain the color you want. Id power wash it first and
roll the stain with a thick roller for a job that small you will spend
more time cleaning the sprayer than its worth. Paint peels, stain wont
if done right. If its dark and in the shade spray on bleach to kill
any mold, use a garden sprayer.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
terry wrote:
On Oct 8, 12:41 pm, "Mike O" wrote:
We have a 10x12 shed next to our house. ...that we want to paint ...it
has the look
of T1-11 panels I've seen on other sheds: you have about a 5 inch wide
section then a 1" wide section recessed about ½ inch. Using a roller
would
only get the outer surface, and the recessed area would be a lot of
brush
work.
...

Suggestion.
Area to be painted. ...= total of say 400 sq.ft. Coupla gallons?
Sounds, even with the nooks and crannies like maybe a four hour job on
a nice afternoon with brush and roller and perhaps a step ladder?
...
However you may have to do two coats to cover dark brown? The second
coat will go on faster than the first.

Basically agree w/ a couple of additions/modifications...

First, use a primer for the first coat, not the finish paint. Whether
it's oil- or water-based is of little real matter, but using a primer is.

Secondly, a long-nap roller will do wonders at getting the material onto
the rough surface and all you'll need is to overbrush to get it into the
crevices some. As Terry notes, w/ no more area than you have, it's not
that much effort.

Lastly, the amount of material you will use rolling/brushing vs spraying
to get it covered will be less by a fair amount and as you're learning,
there's no way you can get a high-enough decent HVLP kit cheaply enough to
begin to justify it for this alone. If you were to do anything on the
spraying side, I would recommend one of the lower-end Graco units such as
those the Orange Box store carries. They can be had for $300 neighborhood
and do good work. But, they don't get you the compressor you're craving,
either! And, unless you're planning on doing the house and have other
uses, it's a fair investment for very small usage. We used it for the barn
"redo" and it was excellent for the purpose--but that's a 40x68x40-ft
ridge height building.

--


Thanks everyone for all the comments. We've decided to take the simplest
(and least cost) option of a roller & brush primer then a finish coat. This
was one of our summer projects, but with a bunch of other things going on
and we're quickly running out of "this summer". Even if it doesn't take
care of all the little issues, it will still be a big improvement in
appearance over what it is now. If we decide later it's still not what we
want, we can always look at making it a "this summer" project NEXT summer...

Mike O.