"SteveB" wrote in message
...
I want to put in a wood burning stove to help heat my single story 1900 sf
house. It has a heat pump now. It is either running inefficiently, or is
undersized. It is 3.5 tons. The ducting, to me, looks like it needs to be
upsized in strategic areas.

That aside, what are your experiences and suggestions with wood burners?
I would like an old black and chrome antique. But I know that takes room
air for combustion. How much more efficient are the new ones that pull in
outside air for combustion? And what are some of the top brands as far as
good construction, reliability, and parts availability?

Please share your opinions, experiences and caveats with me.

Steve

I have a Vermont Castings http://www.vermontcastings.com/

You do not want an old black and chrome antique. You may want one that
looks that way, but newer stoves are much more efficient and cleaner
burning.

You also need to find a good location in a home that size so you can
optimize air circulation. I use a small 10" box fan to move the warm air
out of the room with the stove but I still get a temperature differential of
15 to 20 degrees from one end of the house to the other if I rely strictly
on the wood stove.

Wood stoves are a lot of work. The amount of work will vary depending on
the stove size you buy and the amount of heating it will do as compared to
your heat pump. If it is just a small supplement on really cold days you
may burn a cord or two, but if you are going to use it as the main heat
source, burning 5 or more cords of wood is possible.

Find a place to keep some wood in the house. It burns better if warmed to
room temperature as opposed to tossing in logs at 5 degrees. You want dry
wood also. That is a subject for another post if you do get a stove.

I want to put in a wood burning stove to help heat my single story 1900 sf
house. It has a heat pump now. It is either running inefficiently, or is
undersized. It is 3.5 tons. The ducting, to me, looks like it needs to be
upsized in strategic areas.

That aside, what are your experiences and suggestions with wood burners? I
would like an old black and chrome antique. But I know that takes room air
for combustion. How much more efficient are the new ones that pull in
outside air for combustion? And what are some of the top brands as far as
good construction, reliability, and parts availability?

Please share your opinions, experiences and caveats with me.

Steve

On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 19:37:36 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:


That aside, what are your experiences and suggestions with wood burners?

I've eaten plenty of toast from a wood stove; tossed on top. I just
hated fetching the wood.

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

"SteveB" wrote in message


I did notice when surfing their site and others that there are catalytic
and non-catalytic models. What's the ups and downs of those?

Catalytic are required in some areas to reduce pollution. I have no
experience with them though. It shoudl also reduce chimney cleanign so that
is a plus.



Does yours have the external intake for combustion air, or does it use
room air? Is there a big difference in the two? I know for fireplaces,
they are about worthless as a heater because you have to let in so much
outside air for good combustion. Or at least, that was my experience.

Mine is 26 years old and they did not have external air inlets back then but
I imagine it would be a bit more efficient.


We are familiar with wood stoves and wood. We do live in an area where
wood is plentiful and a permit for five cords is $20. No one has ever
checked us, but we still buy the permits anyway. They bulldoze it into
large piles, so getting a trailer load is not too hard. We have a 28 ton
log splitter.

Then you already know anything I'd tell you. Good price for the wood. It is
getting tougher to find around here.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote

I have a Vermont Castings http://www.vermontcastings.com/

You do not want an old black and chrome antique. You may want one that
looks that way, but newer stoves are much more efficient and cleaner
burning.

You also need to find a good location in a home that size so you can
optimize air circulation. I use a small 10" box fan to move the warm air
out of the room with the stove but I still get a temperature differential
of 15 to 20 degrees from one end of the house to the other if I rely
strictly on the wood stove.

Wood stoves are a lot of work. The amount of work will vary depending on
the stove size you buy and the amount of heating it will do as compared to
your heat pump. If it is just a small supplement on really cold days you
may burn a cord or two, but if you are going to use it as the main heat
source, burning 5 or more cords of wood is possible.

Find a place to keep some wood in the house. It burns better if warmed to
room temperature as opposed to tossing in logs at 5 degrees. You want dry
wood also. That is a subject for another post if you do get a stove.

Thanks for the helpful reply. I have a Vermont Castings barbecue, and love
it. I had just looked at Vermont Castings at a local builders show last
week, but the salesman was busy with other people, and didn't get any time
with him. I would buy VC just on the name.

I did notice when surfing their site and others that there are catalytic and
non-catalytic models. What's the ups and downs of those?

Does yours have the external intake for combustion air, or does it use room
air? Is there a big difference in the two? I know for fireplaces, they are
about worthless as a heater because you have to let in so much outside air
for good combustion. Or at least, that was my experience.

We are familiar with wood stoves and wood. We do live in an area where wood
is plentiful and a permit for five cords is $20. No one has ever checked
us, but we still buy the permits anyway. They bulldoze it into large piles,
so getting a trailer load is not too hard. We have a 28 ton log splitter.

We have a wood burner at the cabin, so are familiar with the drying and
aging of wood, the mess and importance of the upkeep of the waste, keeping
ash in a closed can more than 72 hours before dumping, keeping aging wood
sheltered, lots of things one wouldn't initially think of when just going
out and gathering some firewood.

My BIL has a three axle trailer, and we both have 2500 series diesel
pickups, so when we to on a trip for firewood, with all the gear, it's
almost like going deer hunting. He has two Stihls, and I have a Husky. We
like making one trip, cutting down six to eight foot sections, getting a
full load, then bringing them back to the properties to buzz up, split, and
stack. There's a few shortcuts and pointers, but no easy way to do it.
It's just work. Or you can have it delivered and stacked for $130 a cord
for soft pine.

I like the classy looking black and chrome old stoves, but when I see the
prices they are going for, I think we may just go for the modern model.

Steve

"Oren" wrote in message

I've eaten plenty of toast from a wood stove; tossed on top. I just
hated fetching the wood.

--
Oren


My VC has a griddle on the top. I also made up a cooking grid so I could
open the doors to grill steaks.

On top, I had a metal box fitted with a handle to lift it off and I used it
for roasting. Stews and pot roast just sat on the top in a Dutch oven.

All of that cooking, but I never made toast. After some years, it became a
chore to haul in wood too.
Ed

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

I want to put in a wood burning stove to help heat my single story 1900 sf
house. It has a heat pump now. It is either running inefficiently, or is
undersized. It is 3.5 tons. The ducting, to me, looks like it needs to
be
upsized in strategic areas.

That aside, what are your experiences and suggestions with wood burners?
I
would like an old black and chrome antique. But I know that takes room
air
for combustion. How much more efficient are the new ones that pull in
outside air for combustion?

You need to know about the two different codes:
1 = Fire Safety Code: this information is free from municipal
building licence offices where I live. Most municipalities require
a building licence before a stove is retrofitted.
2 = Environmental Protection Agency efficiency ratings of
stoves on the US market. These measure "efficiency" in
terms of chimney smoke contents (not the efficiency of
fuel in proportion to heat generated.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 16:57:04 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message

I've eaten plenty of toast from a wood stove; tossed on top. I just
hated fetching the wood.


My VC has a griddle on the top. I also made up a cooking grid so I could
open the doors to grill steaks.

On top, I had a metal box fitted with a handle to lift it off and I used it
for roasting. Stews and pot roast just sat on the top in a Dutch oven.

All of that cooking, but I never made toast. After some years, it became a
chore to haul in wood too.
Ed


In the early/mid fifties my great aunts cooked and heated their home
with a cast iron stove. If you were cold or hungry - cut and split
wood. They would toss bread on top and toast it for me.

They made a mean chicken in dumplings on top of that stove, yep also
had to catch the chicken

The stove was similar to this one.

http://tsezana.en.ecplaza.net/2s.gif

The last wood stove I had was in upstate New York. It has a
thermostat/dial on top..iirc it went to 1100 degrees. I got it so hot
one day it was scary. I was burning some good maple wood.

I did cook on it now and then with a dutch oven.

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:26:36 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

We are familiar with wood stoves and wood. We do live in an area where wood
is plentiful and a permit for five cords is $20. No one has ever checked
us, but we still buy the permits anyway. They bulldoze it into large piles,
so getting a trailer load is not too hard. We have a 28 ton log splitter.

Clark County, NV or further north?

I could sure use some cured wood for the next pig roast

--
Oren

"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."

On Mon, 8 Oct 2007 17:05:08 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:26:36 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

We are familiar with wood stoves and wood. We do live in an area where
wood
is plentiful and a permit for five cords is $20. No one has ever checked
us, but we still buy the permits anyway. They bulldoze it into large
piles,
so getting a trailer load is not too hard. We have a 28 ton log splitter.

Clark County, NV or further north?

I could sure use some cured wood for the next pig roast
Oren

Iron and Washington counties, Utah. We're out of Vegas as soon as we can
sell the houses. Living here in Utah mostly, just going to Vegas when we
have to.

Steve


I just recently had the best tasting tomatoes; from Utah, up HWY 15.
The best in many, many years; since I pasts the MS river.

Here is your cabin, notice wood burner {GRIN}.

http://news.webshots.com/photo/12856...33289962bohStE


bfg

--
Oren

"I didn’t say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you."

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 20:26:36 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

We are familiar with wood stoves and wood. We do live in an area where
wood
is plentiful and a permit for five cords is $20. No one has ever checked
us, but we still buy the permits anyway. They bulldoze it into large
piles,
so getting a trailer load is not too hard. We have a 28 ton log splitter.

Clark County, NV or further north?

I could sure use some cured wood for the next pig roast

--
Oren

Iron and Washington counties, Utah. We're out of Vegas as soon as we can
sell the houses. Living here in Utah mostly, just going to Vegas when we
have to.

Steve

On Oct 8, 10:37 am, "Don Phillipson"
wrote:
"SteveB" wrote in message

...



I want to put in a wood burning stove to help heat my single story 1900 sf
house. It has a heat pump now. It is either running inefficiently, or is
undersized. It is 3.5 tons. The ducting, to me, looks like it needs to
be
upsized in strategic areas.

That aside, what are your experiences and suggestions with wood burners?
I
would like an old black and chrome antique. But I know that takes room
air
for combustion. How much more efficient are the new ones that pull in
outside air for combustion?

You need to know about the two different codes:
1 = Fire Safety Code: this information is free from municipal
building licence offices where I live. Most municipalities require
a building licence before a stove is retrofitted.
2 = Environmental Protection Agency efficiency ratings of
stoves on the US market. These measure "efficiency" in
terms of chimney smoke contents (not the efficiency of
fuel in proportion to heat generated.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

And check with your insurance agent. Some companies won't insure for
a wood stove. Mine insisted on inspecting the installation. That was
over years ago and I have heard they are getting even more strict.

Harry K.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message


I did notice when surfing their site and others that there are catalytic and
non-catalytic models. What's the ups and downs of those?

Catalytic are required in some areas to reduce pollution. I have no
experience with them though. It shoudl also reduce chimney cleanign so that
is a plus.

I don't believe that is true. They do, however have to be "EPA certified" to be
legally installed. Where I live, an uncertified stove cannot legally even be put
back into the fireplace after cleaning. Certified stoves do not necessarily have
a catalyst.

An "illegally installed" stove could put your insurance at risk. Permits could
be required to install stoves..

Bob

I want to put in a wood burning stove to help
heat my single story 1900 sf house.
what are your experiences and suggestions with wood burners?
I would like an old black and chrome antique. But I know
that takes room air for combustion. How much more efficient are the
new ones that pull in outside air for combustion? And what are some
of the top brands as far as good construction, reliability, and parts
availability?

We have a small "Patriot" model woodstove made by Lopi woodstoves to heat
our 1456 sq/ft house. We use it mostly in the evenings for supplemental
heat, to provide that "romantic atmosphere", and to provide heat during
power outages. We've had it about four years now and have been very happy
with it.

Our stove is centrally located and can easily heat the entire house
within an hour or two. We do have a fairly open floor plan with 12-14'
vaulted ceilings, and a ceiling fan to help circulate the air, but even
so our master bedroom in the back corner stays a little cooler than the
rest of the house. That's actually a nice advantage when it comes time to
sleep. Though most of the time I don't bother turning on the ceiling fan,
and the heat seems to circulate just fine.

I installed the woodstove myself, and here in Washington state you have
to get a woodstove permit. It's only about $40 or so, and all they really
do is come out and look at the owners manual (or stamp on the back of the
stove) to make sure you have all the proper clearances recommended by the
manufacturer, and that it's a rated stove. I allowed an extra inch or so
to the side and back clearances and had no problems passing the
inspection. By the way, your home insurance company will want a copy of
the woodstove permit to prove it's installed properly. Mine also sent a
guy out to take a photo of the installation. If you don't get a permit,
you risk losing your insurance or they might not pay out if a fire should
occur. Otherwise, the woodstove made no difference in our insurance
rates.

Our Patriot woodstove seems to be very clean burning. Other than a little
smoke when starting the fire, there's very little smoke coming from the
chimney. I clean our chimney every summer, and there's usually less than
a 1/4 cup of soot and creosote built up inside the chimney (about 18'
tall).

Because houses are built so tight now, we were required to supply an
external source of air for the woodstove. Basically, I just cut a hole
into the crawlspace, covered it with a wire mesh to keep out critters,
and the woodstove has a metal boot that extends to the floor over the
hole (optional equipment of course). It pulls fresh air in through the
foundation vents, instead of using the air from the living space. It
seems to work quite well. However, if I turn on the kitchen stove fan
before I have a fire going to get a good draft, it will pull a little
smoke into the room where the chimney sits on the woodstove (it's not an
air tight connection). Once the fire is going, it's no longer an issue.

We wanted the all-black look of the Patriot model, as it fit best with
the rustic nature of our house. But, my sister-in-law cleans houses for a
living and has said many of the woodstoves with chrome trim have the trim
come loose after a while. I can't confirm that, but it's something to
think about.

Don't apply the "bigger is better" mentality to a woodstove. Even our
little Patriot model can overheat the house rather quickly if I get the
fire too hot. Hot fires burn cleaner (the door glass stays cleaner), but
it usually gets too hot in the house if I don't close the damper down.
Even so, I never start a fire unless it's under 50 degrees outside. It
just gets too hot.

Other than cleaning the chimney, there's virtually no maintenance other
than cleaning the door glass and dumping ashes occasionally (usually once
2-3 times each season for me).

The only downside to the woodstove is it dries out the air. Makes your
nose a little dry inside, and we get a lot more static shocks. We've been
meaning to get a "steamer" to go on top of the stove which is supposed to
help counteract the drying effect, but that hasn't happened yet.

Anthony