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Default Old Water Heater

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott
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Default Old Water Heater

In article , Scott
wrote:

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace
before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott


Uh-oh. Now you've gone and given the anti-trolls and the appliance
peddlers something to fret about. But since they're snoring now, I'll
just pop in and say that I wouldn't touch the thing to do any preventive
maintenance at this point.

Replace it before it breaks or after? That's a personal call, and
depends on your philosophy. None of us are qualified to address that.
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Default Old Water Heater

I wouldn't try to flush the bottom of it at this age. If it hasn't been
done regularly, it'll probably fail shortly after you clean it out. If it's
still recovering in a reasonable length of time, i'd leave well enough
alone. If it seems to take forever to recover, then it's probably time to
consider a new one.

s


"Scott" wrote in message
...
Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric
water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace
before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott



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Default Old Water Heater

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 23:12:00 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article , Scott
wrote:

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace
before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott


Uh-oh. Now you've gone and given the anti-trolls and the appliance
peddlers something to fret about. But since they're snoring now, I'll
just pop in and say that I wouldn't touch the thing to do any preventive
maintenance at this point.

Replace it before it breaks or after? That's a personal call, and
depends on your philosophy. None of us are qualified to address that.



I'd have to agree with that. Since it has not rusted out it may be
glass-lined.
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Default Old Water Heater

on 9/21/2007 1:58 AM Scott said the following:
Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

On a heater that old, you'll probably have to replace the valve after
draining the tank.
I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott

If it ain't broke...

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @


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Default Old Water Heater

Change it..it's way beyond it's planned life, could leak and make a mess at
any time. An electric water heater isn't all that much money, so unless your
planning on moving change it. I wouldn't tinker with draining it now, you
might cause a problem by disturbing things at this late date, and there is a
pretty good chance you won't be able to drain it anyway, the drain is
probably clogged up if it hasn't been drained periodically. I just replaced
mine after 14 years and had a hell of a time getting the water ( and a ton
of sediment) out of the old one so I could get it up the stairs, there was a
solid plug behind the drain and even after I took the valve off the sediment
didn't let the water out without a lot of poking and prodding.

--

Mike S.

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric
water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace
before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott



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Default Old Water Heater

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 14:26:09 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 00:58:45 -0500, Scott wrote:

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott


Don't fix what aint broke.


I agree with the above.

It's been my experience that water heaters made 30 plus years ago seem
to last almost indefinitely. They may eventually sludge up (lime up)
and become inefficient but they seem to not corrode through.

I contrast that to newer ones that seem to have a life of 6 to 12
years, typically a year or two after the warranty expires. They seem
to be made with a minimal life expectancy in mind.

Most electric water heaters fail by developing an initial leak that is
generally quite small. Unless it is in an area where a small amount of
leakage will really ruin things (such as a second floor utility room),
I'd leave it alone.

Doug


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On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 12:28:42 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 23:12:00 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article , Scott
wrote:

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace
before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott


Uh-oh. Now you've gone and given the anti-trolls and the appliance
peddlers something to fret about. But since they're snoring now, I'll
just pop in and say that I wouldn't touch the thing to do any preventive
maintenance at this point.

Replace it before it breaks or after? That's a personal call, and
depends on your philosophy. None of us are qualified to address that.



I'd have to agree with that. Since it has not rusted out it may be
glass-lined.


It probably is glass lined or it would have died long ago. A.O. Smith
was a very good brand years ago, (I dont know anything about their
newer stuff). However, I dont consider draining some water out of the
bottom valve to be maintenance that should affect the heater in any
manner. ALL water heaters should be drained at least once a year. It
will keep crud out of the heater, which reduces the efficency of the
heating source, because the gas flame or electric element has to heat
the crud before the water. It also makes for cleaner water which some
people use out of the tap for hot beverages and cooking, and it
prevents the buildup from clogging pipes in the house. Definately
drain it. About the only problem that could occur is the drain faucet
may need a new washer once it's opened. That's not a real big deal,
it's just a washer. If it only drips a little, you can put a hose cap
on the threads too. I had to do that on one of those newer cheap
plastic faucets they use on water heaters. Those things are pure
garbage, and they dont contain a normal washer. I knew I'd likely
break off the plastic, so I just used a hose cap with hose washer.
The next time the tank needs draining, just unscrew the cap. However,
you will still have a good metal one.
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On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 14:26:09 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 00:58:45 -0500, Scott wrote:

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott


Don't fix what aint broke.


I agree. Whats the point of replacing it if it works. i still opt to
drain it though. If the valve leaks and you dont want to tear it
apart, that 99 cent hose cap works fine. I can almost guarantee you
wont get 30 years out of any new heater. They just are not made as
well these days, unless you were to buy a costly commercial model.
I am curious about one thing. Have you ever replaced a heating
element in it? I can see the tank lasting 30 years, or maybe 40
years, but not the element. Lightning and power surges like to ruin
elements as well as corrosion.
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wrote:

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 14:26:09 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 00:58:45 -0500, Scott wrote:

Our 30-year old house has it's original A.O. Smith 52-gallon electric water
heater, which is still working fine. Is it a good idea to periodically
hook up a garden hose and drain some water from the bottom of the tank,
or should I leave well enough alone?

I'm getting worried about the age of this water heater. Should I replace before
something goes wrong...or wait until it does?

Thanks!
Scott


Don't fix what aint broke.


I agree. Whats the point of replacing it if it works. i still opt to
drain it though. If the valve leaks and you dont want to tear it
apart, that 99 cent hose cap works fine. I can almost guarantee you
wont get 30 years out of any new heater. They just are not made as
well these days, unless you were to buy a costly commercial model.
I am curious about one thing. Have you ever replaced a heating
element in it? I can see the tank lasting 30 years, or maybe 40
years, but not the element. Lightning and power surges like to ruin
elements as well as corrosion.



I haven't replaced the heating element or anything else. Once in awhile, the
thermostat seems to stick on, since I have to turn the shower valve to a cooler
setting. But most of the time, the temperature is where it should be. Some years
ago, I turned the thermostat down to it's lowest point, which I believe is 120.

I'll consider draining it, just to clean out the crud.

And, yes, it's a Permaglas I model, which must mean it has some kind of fiberglass
inside.

We do have organic iron in our water, which necessitates maintenance on our water
softener every 6 months to clean out the clogs.

Scott


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"Scott" wrote in message
...

I haven't replaced the heating element or anything else. Once in awhile,
the
thermostat seems to stick on, since I have to turn the shower valve to a
cooler
setting. But most of the time, the temperature is where it should be. Some
years
ago, I turned the thermostat down to it's lowest point, which I believe is
120.


That needs to be fixed. If the t-stat is stuck on when you're not using the
heater, you could end up with an exploding heater....when was the last time
you tested the T&P valve? (comes out the side near the top, or on the top,
and drains down the outside of the heater) They need to be tested yearly
because they lime up.

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"Bob M." wrote:

"Scott" wrote in message
...

I haven't replaced the heating element or anything else. Once in awhile,
the
thermostat seems to stick on, since I have to turn the shower valve to a
cooler
setting. But most of the time, the temperature is where it should be. Some
years
ago, I turned the thermostat down to it's lowest point, which I believe is
120.


That needs to be fixed. If the t-stat is stuck on when you're not using the
heater, you could end up with an exploding heater....when was the last time
you tested the T&P valve? (comes out the side near the top, or on the top,
and drains down the outside of the heater) They need to be tested yearly
because they lime up.


Bob,

How to I test the T&P valve?

Scott
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On Sep 22, 7:40 pm, Scott wrote:
"Bob M." wrote:

"Scott" wrote in message
...


I haven't replaced the heating element or anything else. Once in awhile,
the
thermostat seems to stick on, since I have to turn the shower valve to a
cooler
setting. But most of the time, the temperature is where it should be. Some
years
ago, I turned the thermostat down to it's lowest point, which I believe is
120.


That needs to be fixed. If the t-stat is stuck on when you're not using the
heater, you could end up with an exploding heater....when was the last time
you tested the T&P valve? (comes out the side near the top, or on the top,
and drains down the outside of the heater) They need to be tested yearly
because they lime up.


Bob,

How to I test the T&P valve?

Scott- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Quickly flick the tab on the unit up for 5 secounds with a pail under
the dischage

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"Scott" wrote in message
...


"Bob M." wrote:

"Scott" wrote in message
...

I haven't replaced the heating element or anything else. Once in
awhile,
the
thermostat seems to stick on, since I have to turn the shower valve to
a
cooler
setting. But most of the time, the temperature is where it should be.
Some
years
ago, I turned the thermostat down to it's lowest point, which I believe
is
120.


That needs to be fixed. If the t-stat is stuck on when you're not using
the
heater, you could end up with an exploding heater....when was the last
time
you tested the T&P valve? (comes out the side near the top, or on the
top,
and drains down the outside of the heater) They need to be tested yearly
because they lime up.


Bob,

How to I test the T&P valve?

Scott.



Lift up on the tab. when you do that, HOT water will come out the tube so
don't have your feet right under it. ;-) It may be handy to have a hammer
or a block of wood with you, since the T&P valves tend to leak after being
tested. Bop it a few times, if that stops the leak you're good, if not it
needs to be replaced.

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