My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two wires from
it and connect those two from the bell to the same two posts on the
transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the brown ones in
place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post. Since it's direct
current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Use a small
bell/chime ...a big one could overload the transformer when both upstairs
and down ring.


"willshak" wrote in message
...
My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

willshak wrote:
My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?


The transformer (converter) provides low voltage
Alternating Current (typically 16V) to the bell.
If those are the only wires accessible, you can't
simply connect a second bell.

If running more wires isn't an option, you could
purchase a remote current sensing device made just
for doorbell use or replace the existing bell button
with an RF type with remotes. Or, replace the existing
bell with something louder, etc.

How much are you willing to spend in $ and/or effort?

Jim

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current, not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by
the transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to interrupt the power.

To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best
approach, although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to parallel the new bell/chime directly across
the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but they make wireless things to do this. You install a
little transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much
easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message . ..
That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the
same two posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two
wires on each post. Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Use a small bell/chime ...a
big one could overload the transformer when both upstairs and down ring.


"willshak" wrote in message ...
My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires
connected to the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the doorbell rings in the
basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

curmudgeon wrote:

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two wires from
it and connect those two from the bell to the same two posts on the
transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the brown ones in
place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post. Since it's direct
current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Use a small
bell/chime ...a big one could overload the transformer when both upstairs
and down ring.

Wrong!

on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:
Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current, not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by
the transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to interrupt the power.


I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to the
converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the two
wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed? What I
can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable that has
three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that looks grey and
black striped ( it could be another color than grey, but looks grey).
The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into one
of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to complete
the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to complete the circuit?
To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best
approach, although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to parallel the new bell/chime directly across
the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but they make wireless things to do this. You install a
little transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much
easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message . ..

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the
same two posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two
wires on each post. Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Use a small bell/chime ...a
big one could overload the transformer when both upstairs and down ring.


"willshak" wrote in message ...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires
connected to the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the doorbell rings in the
basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @







--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:
on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:
Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.


I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.

To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
. ..

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.


"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @









--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Aug 21, 12:33 pm, willshak wrote:
on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current, not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by
the transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to the
converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the two
wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed? What I
can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable that has
three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that looks grey and
black striped ( it could be another color than grey, but looks grey).
The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into one
of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to complete
the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to complete the circuit?





To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best
approach, although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to parallel the new bell/chime directly across
the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but they make wireless things to do this. You install a
little transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much
easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in th.net...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the
same two posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two
wires on each post. Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which post. Use a small bell/chime ...a
big one could overload the transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in ...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires
connected to the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the doorbell rings in the
basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Measure it with a multimeter while someone holds the button down, its
only 16 or 24 volts AC. If it goes hot while the button is down then
that is your place to connect the trigger terminals for the new
electronic bell or just any AC bell.

On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:
on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:





on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:
Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.





To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
t...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:


|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|


To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.


Some chimes do not connect in series. The transformer connects
directly to terminals on the chimes and the switch connects to
another set of terminals on the chimes. I have one like that.
Pressing the door switch gets a motor in the chimes running and it
continues through the cycle by itself.


Fortunately my chimes has a set of termials for a second bell.

Rich256 wrote:
On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:






on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.






To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
. net...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:


|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|


To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.



Quote from OP:
"What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used..."

That may be the clue.
If the 3-wire cable goes directly to the bell,
it would be possible to use the 3rd wire to connect
a remote bell at the transformer location.

Jim

On Aug 21, 1:47 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:
Rich256 wrote:
On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:

on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.

To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
. net...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:

|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|

To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.

Quote from OP:
"What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used..."

That may be the clue.
If the 3-wire cable goes directly to the bell,
it would be possible to use the 3rd wire to connect
a remote bell at the transformer location.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

First have to know more about you present bell. What type is your
present bell? One that has just a "Ding - Dong" or a series of
notes?. Look at the wires to your present bell. I think that same
three wire cable may end there and that third wire is probably tied
back there as well. Also note if there is another cable coming in
from the door switch. Do you have both front and rear switchs? If so
there would be two cables coming in.

on 8/21/2007 4:05 PM Rich256 said the following:
On Aug 21, 1:47 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:

Rich256 wrote:

On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:

on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.

To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
. ..

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:

|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|

To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.

Quote from OP:
"What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used..."

That may be the clue.
If the 3-wire cable goes directly to the bell,
it would be possible to use the 3rd wire to connect
a remote bell at the transformer location.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


First have to know more about you present bell. What type is your
present bell? One that has just a "Ding - Dong" or a series of
notes?. Look at the wires to your present bell. I think that same
three wire cable may end there and that third wire is probably tied
back there as well. Also note if there is another cable coming in
from the door switch. Do you have both front and rear switchs? If so
there would be two cables coming in.


OP: There is only one ringer on the wall next to the front door. It is
a simple ding-dong ringer. There are no other door buttons in the back
of the house or any other door. Looking in the ringer, the two wires
mentioned previously are connected to the ringer. The red wire is not
connected and is wrapped around the brown cable.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Aug 21, 2:44 pm, willshak wrote:
on 8/21/2007 4:05 PM Rich256 said the following:



On Aug 21, 1:47 pm, Speedy Jim wrote:

Rich256 wrote:

On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:

on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.

To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
h.net...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
.. .

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:

|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|

To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.

Quote from OP:
"What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used..."

That may be the clue.
If the 3-wire cable goes directly to the bell,
it would be possible to use the 3rd wire to connect
a remote bell at the transformer location.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

First have to know more about you present bell. What type is your
present bell? One that has just a "Ding - Dong" or a series of
notes?. Look at the wires to your present bell. I think that same
three wire cable may end there and that third wire is probably tied
back there as well. Also note if there is another cable coming in
from the door switch. Do you have both front and rear switchs? If so
there would be two cables coming in.

OP: There is only one ringer on the wall next to the front door. It is
a simple ding-dong ringer. There are no other door buttons in the back
of the house or any other door. Looking in the ringer, the two wires
mentioned previously are connected to the ringer. The red wire is not
connected and is wrapped around the brown cable.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

AH SO. How does the outside button connect to the ringer?

Some how pressing the button has to complete a circuit through the two
wires from the transformer to the coils of the plungers. Like the
diagram I tried to draw..

So any n

On Aug 21, 9:05 am, willshak wrote:
My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.

I just googled "wireless doorbell". The first hit was on Amazon.com,
selling a wireless doorbell with 1 remote (button) and 2 chimes for
$15. Gonna be difficult to beat that price and simplicity. No wires,
you just attach the battery-powered button outside, and plug in the
indoor unit(s).

I have had a wireless doorbell in my house for about a year now, still
on the original battery for the button.

Jerry

on 8/21/2007 6:05 PM Jerry said the following:
On Aug 21, 9:05 am, willshak wrote:

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.


I just googled "wireless doorbell". The first hit was on Amazon.com,
selling a wireless doorbell with 1 remote (button) and 2 chimes for
$15. Gonna be difficult to beat that price and simplicity. No wires,
you just attach the battery-powered button outside, and plug in the
indoor unit(s).

I have had a wireless doorbell in my house for about a year now, still
on the original battery for the button.

Jerry

Thanks, but I don't want to have to rely on batteries to add an extra
ringer to what I have already have. I have batteries ( coin type) in my
garage door opener and they have failed me too often. If I can't
hardwire it, then I would like to have a wireless remote ringer that
operates on the AC power I already have at the button and ringer.


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 18:11:24 -0400, willshak
wrote:

on 8/21/2007 6:05 PM Jerry said the following:
On Aug 21, 9:05 am, willshak wrote:

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.


I just googled "wireless doorbell". The first hit was on Amazon.com,
selling a wireless doorbell with 1 remote (button) and 2 chimes for
$15. Gonna be difficult to beat that price and simplicity. No wires,
you just attach the battery-powered button outside, and plug in the
indoor unit(s).

I have had a wireless doorbell in my house for about a year now, still
on the original battery for the button.

Jerry

Thanks, but I don't want to have to rely on batteries to add an extra
ringer to what I have already have. I have batteries ( coin type) in my
garage door opener and they have failed me too often. If I can't
hardwire it, then I would like to have a wireless remote ringer that
operates on the AC power I already have at the button and ringer.

Wireless devices add unreliability, and batteries AREN'T the only
reason. It could work OK, or could be much more trouble than it's
worth.

I know someone who had a wireless system and got rid of it quickly
because of the excessive false alarms.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"God was invented by man for a reason, that
reason is no longer applicable."

On Aug 21, 12:05 pm, willshak wrote:
My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

wow you got some replies..
you need to run 2 or 3 wire (depending on if you have1 or 2 doorbell
buttons.) from your chime to your new (additional) location. one wire
for each frnt/xfmer/rear then hook the wires up the same in your new
chime.

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 19:47:31 +0000, Speedy Jim wrote:

Rich256 wrote:
On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:






on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.






To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
.net...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:


|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|


To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.



Quote from OP:
"What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used..."

That may be the clue.
If the 3-wire cable goes directly to the bell,
it would be possible to use the 3rd wire to connect
a remote bell at the transformer location.

Jim



I might try this since it is simple:

Find a low impedance buzzer at the hardware store.

Detach one lead from the transformer and then wire buzzer in series
between transformer and lead you disconnected. When doorbell switch is
activated, current should then flow through buzzer through the switch to
complete the circuit and ring the upstairs doorbell. Buzzer should ring
in basement.

One problem with this is if either buzzer or doorbell become defective,
neither will work.

To avoid this, wiring both bells in parallel after the switch would be
best but this means you have to add most likely additional wires.

I'd opt for the buzzer in series.

On Aug 21, 8:28 pm, franz frippl wrote:
On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 19:47:31 +0000, Speedy Jim wrote:
Rich256 wrote:
On Aug 21, 12:03 pm, willshak wrote:

on 8/21/2007 1:33 PM willshak said the following:

on 8/21/2007 1:02 PM Eric said the following:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current,
not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring
all the time! This is because it'll be fed directly by the
transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to
interrupt the power.

I'm the OP: This is what I was wondering about. Are the two wires to
the converter a complete circuit as they are connected now, or do the
two wires only complete the circuit when the door bell is pressed?
What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used and is wrapped around the cable.
If it is not a complete circuit as is, could a ringer be tapped into
one of the wires in series, so that when the doorbell is pressed to
complete the circuit, it has to go through the second ringer to
complete the circuit?

I answered my own question. Using a multimeter set at AC, I get 19.9
volts across the two terminals, so it completes a circuit as it is now.

To avoid this problem, the new bell/chime must be connected to a
point in the circuit that is *after* the button. Best approach,
although possibly difficult to get the wire to the right place, is to
parallel the new bell/chime directly across the old one.

One other possibility, I don't know exactly what they're called but
they make wireless things to do this. You install a little
transmitter inside the existing bell/chime, and there's a wireless
receiver that plugs into any AC outlet. Much easier to set up!

EL

"curmudgeon" wrote in message
.net...

That's a transformer, likely 24 volt.
Yes, you should be able to add a bell in the basement; take two
wires from it and connect those two from the bell to the same two
posts on the transformer where the brown wires are now (keep the
brown ones in place)...so you wind up with two wires on each post.
Since it's direct current, doesn't matter which wire goes on which
post. Use a small bell/chime ...a big one could overload the
transformer when both upstairs and down ring.

"willshak" wrote in message
...

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell,
I cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to
the converter box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box
somehow so that the doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Somewhere else it has to be a complete circuit. If you have a simple
bell type it will be something like:

|--------switch-----|
Transformer |
|--------bell---------|

To add another bell you need to find where they are connected

|--------switch---|
Transformer |
|-------Bell 1 ----|
|-------Bell 2 ----|

I am thinking that the wires are connected at the present bell
location.

Quote from OP:
"What I can tell you is that the two wires come out of a brown cable
that has three wires. The three wires are white, red, and one that
looks grey and black striped ( it could be another color than grey,
but looks grey). The red is not used..."

That may be the clue.
If the 3-wire cable goes directly to the bell,
it would be possible to use the 3rd wire to connect
a remote bell at the transformer location.

Jim

I might try this since it is simple:

Find a low impedance buzzer at the hardware store.

Detach one lead from the transformer and then wire buzzer in series
between transformer and lead you disconnected. When doorbell switch is
activated, current should then flow through buzzer through the switch to
complete the circuit and ring the upstairs doorbell. Buzzer should ring
in basement.

One problem with this is if either buzzer or doorbell become defective,
neither will work.

To avoid this, wiring both bells in parallel after the switch would be
best but this means you have to add most likely additional wires.

I'd opt for the buzzer in series.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

May not be enough voltage to drive two in series.

One of the Transformer wires must go to the switch.
Possible at the old ringer, to connect that third unused wire to the
wire from other side of the switch. Then the other end of that wire
to a new ringer and then the other wire from the new ringer to the
side of the transfomer that goes to the old ringer. Difficult to
explain without a diagram but that would end up with two ringers in
parallel driven by a single switch.

on 8/21/2007 8:42 PM sym said the following:
On Aug 21, 12:05 pm, willshak wrote:

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @


wow you got some replies..
you need to run 2 or 3 wire (depending on if you have1 or 2 doorbell
buttons.) from your chime to your new (additional) location. one wire
for each frnt/xfmer/rear then hook the wires up the same in your new
chime.



OP Thanks, but rewiring was considered and dismissed. I don't want to
have to cut into the walls to run a new wire. I was looking for a
non-invasive solution.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Interesting to find out how many people have no clue how a simple door bell
works, and they offer help! If the OP is not confused now, he never will
be

Al

willshak wrote:
on 8/21/2007 8:42 PM sym said the following:

On Aug 21, 12:05 pm, willshak wrote:


My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @



wow you got some replies..
you need to run 2 or 3 wire (depending on if you have1 or 2 doorbell
buttons.) from your chime to your new (additional) location. one wire
for each frnt/xfmer/rear then hook the wires up the same in your new
chime.




OP Thanks, but rewiring was considered and dismissed. I don't want to
have to cut into the walls to run a new wire. I was looking for a
non-invasive solution.


All you need to do is confirm that the 3-wire cable does
indeed go from the transformer directly up to the existing bell.
If it does, the unused Red wire can "return" the bell signal
down to the baasement with no rewiring.

Jim

on 8/22/2007 11:02 AM Speedy Jim said the following:
willshak wrote:
on 8/21/2007 8:42 PM sym said the following:

On Aug 21, 12:05 pm, willshak wrote:


My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the
converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @



wow you got some replies..
you need to run 2 or 3 wire (depending on if you have1 or 2 doorbell
buttons.) from your chime to your new (additional) location. one wire
for each frnt/xfmer/rear then hook the wires up the same in your new
chime.




OP Thanks, but rewiring was considered and dismissed. I don't want
to have to cut into the walls to run a new wire. I was looking for a
non-invasive solution.


All you need to do is confirm that the 3-wire cable does
indeed go from the transformer directly up to the existing bell.
If it does, the unused Red wire can "return" the bell signal
down to the baasement with no rewiring.

Jim

OP As far as I can see, the red wire does run from the transformer to
the ringer, and both ends of the red wire are unused and wrapped around
the brown cable. I suspect that I would connect it to the FRONT (door)
terminal in the ringer, and in series to one or the other wires at the
transformer. I'll pick up a cheap ringer in the next few days and try
it, and let you know how it works.
Thanks

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Aug 22, 8:24 am, willshak wrote:

OP As far as I can see, the red wire does run from the transformer to
the ringer, and both ends of the red wire are unused and wrapped around
the brown cable. I suspect that I would connect it to the FRONT (door)
terminal in the ringer, and in series to one or the other wires at the
transformer. I'll pick up a cheap ringer in the next few days and try
it, and let you know how it works.

Here's a couple of links to some sites about doorbell wiring (watch
for wrap):

http://www.forteelectric.com/Doorbell.html

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homew...bell/index.htm

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2installadoorbell

Jerry

on 8/22/2007 12:18 PM Jerry said the following:
On Aug 22, 8:24 am, willshak wrote:


OP As far as I can see, the red wire does run from the transformer to
the ringer, and both ends of the red wire are unused and wrapped around
the brown cable. I suspect that I would connect it to the FRONT (door)
terminal in the ringer, and in series to one or the other wires at the
transformer. I'll pick up a cheap ringer in the next few days and try
it, and let you know how it works.


Here's a couple of links to some sites about doorbell wiring (watch
for wrap):

http://www.forteelectric.com/Doorbell.html

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homew...bell/index.htm

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2installadoorbell

Jerry



Thanks.


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Aug 22, 9:24 am, willshak wrote:
on 8/22/2007 11:02 AM Speedy Jim said the following:





willshak wrote:
on 8/21/2007 8:42 PM sym said the following:

On Aug 21, 12:05 pm, willshak wrote:

My office is in the basement. Whenever someone rings the doorbell, I
cannot hear it.
The electrical converter box for the ringer is in the basement
under my
breaker panel. There are only two brown wires connected to the
converter
box. Can I hook up a ringer to that converter box somehow so that the
doorbell rings in the basement as well?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

wow you got some replies..
you need to run 2 or 3 wire (depending on if you have1 or 2 doorbell
buttons.) from your chime to your new (additional) location. one wire
for each frnt/xfmer/rear then hook the wires up the same in your new
chime.

OP Thanks, but rewiring was considered and dismissed. I don't want
to have to cut into the walls to run a new wire. I was looking for a
non-invasive solution.

All you need to do is confirm that the 3-wire cable does
indeed go from the transformer directly up to the existing bell.
If it does, the unused Red wire can "return" the bell signal
down to the baasement with no rewiring.

Jim

OP As far as I can see, the red wire does run from the transformer to
the ringer, and both ends of the red wire are unused and wrapped around
the brown cable. I suspect that I would connect it to the FRONT (door)
terminal in the ringer, and in series to one or the other wires at the
transformer. I'll pick up a cheap ringer in the next few days and try
it, and let you know how it works.
Thanks

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Connect the red unused wire to the wire that comes from the switch to
the old ringer. The basement end of that wire will go to the new
ringer. The return wire from the new ringer will then go to a
transformer tap. If you get the wrong transformer tap it won't
ring. What I mean is that it will not short out anything.

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 13:02:13 -0400, "Eric"
wrote:

Sounds like someone's a little confused...

Minor point: the output from the transformer is alternating current, not direct. This is why polarity doesn't matter.

Major point: if you connect a bell as described below, it will ring all the time!

That's good. That way he'll always be ready.


This is because it'll be fed directly by
the transformer, without the doorbell button being in the circuit to interrupt the power.

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 16:44:04 -0400, willshak
wrote:



OP: There is only one ringer on the wall next to the front door. It is
a simple ding-dong ringer. There are no other door buttons in the back
of the house or any other door. Looking in the ringer, the two wires
mentioned previously are connected to the ringer. The red wire is not
connected and is wrapped around the brown cable.

The thing is that one of the two wires connected to the bell now goes
to the button. The other one goes to the transformer in the
basement.

Either that, which is the way mine was, or they all go to the
basement and there is another pair of wires from the button to the
basement.

Figure out which wire is which and connect the second bell to the two
connections on the first bell. If your house is like mine, you can
use the unused red wire to go from the bell (the screw that is
connected to the button) to the basement bell.

And the other wire to the first bell already runs to the basement.
You can use that for the second wire to the new bell.

I had the same problem you did and first go a little bell with a
circle at the top and a clapper at the side. It worked well enough
that I knew someone was there, and the main floor ding dong also
worked. Years later Home Depot had 75% off a nicer ding dong than the
one I had, so I put the new one on the first floor and moved the old
one to the basement. Then neither rang! So I had to go to the next
bigger transformer, which is an inconvenience, but not impossible.
Althought in your case it might mean taking the cover off the fuse
box, which is also possible but requires extra safety things we'd have
to go over.

That was fine but then came the intennet, and I needed a bell on the
second floor. No wires already run and no easy way to run wires. So
I used my mother's old wireless doorbell, but without batteries.

I took the 18 volt transformer, put a little diode in the circuit to
make 9 volts DC (ripple doesn't matter) and ran parallel to the wires
on the downstairs bell to the 9 volt battery conector of the wireless
push button. This means when somone pushes the front door button, the
wirelss button is activated. Oh, yeah, I soldered a little wire to
short out the wireless pushbutton button, so that switch is always
closed. Then I plugged in the receiver in the 2nd floor hall and
everything works fine. No batteries to worry about.

I paid 3 dollars iirc from Sunset House for this wireless one 18 years
ago.
--

Bill