Hi all,

I bought an older cast iron franklin fireplace for my new cottage. It was
a bit of an impulse buy. I realize that for heating, an airtight is the
only way to go, but the snap crackle pop effect of a fireplace is hard to
beat.

The roof is 12/12 pitch with cathedral ceiling and I plan to put the
insulated chimney up above the peak to ensure good draft.

Anyone have experience with a franklin? Do they work well?

Any suggestings how to make a nice but reasonably easy to build hearth?

Thanks,
John

John van Gurp wrote:
Hi all,

I bought an older cast iron franklin fireplace for my new cottage. It was
a bit of an impulse buy. I realize that for heating, an airtight is the
only way to go, but the snap crackle pop effect of a fireplace is hard to
beat.

The roof is 12/12 pitch with cathedral ceiling and I plan to put the
insulated chimney up above the peak to ensure good draft.

Keep in mind that heat rises and you absolutely must have a cieling
fan at the peak, maybe even thermostatically controlled.

Anyone have experience with a franklin? Do they work well?

Grew up with parlor stoves years ago. They work fine but need lots of
TLC. The chimney fire and creosote specter is always prsent, so plan
accordingly.

Any suggestings how to make a nice but reasonably easy to build hearth?

Find a store that sells granite countertops and negociate for sdome
cut-offs or rejects of sutable size. Don't pay the $ per square foot
that countertops go for...remember you're just buying some rock to put
under a stove. Standard tiling tchniques ought to do just fine. HTH

Joe

"John van Gurp" wrote in message
bucto.ns.ca...

I bought an older cast iron franklin fireplace for my new cottage. It was
a bit of an impulse buy. I realize that for heating, an airtight is the
only way to go, but the snap crackle pop effect of a fireplace is hard to
beat. . . .
Any suggestings how to make a nice but reasonably easy to build hearth?

In towns, any fireplace or stove must conform to
the current building code, sometimes by a WETT-
licensed installer. The provincial fire safety code
(5 to 15 pages for "solid fuel appliances") is also
full of practical information to do the job yourself
(hearth, spacing for clearances, chimney collar etc.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007, Joe wrote:


John van Gurp wrote:
Hi all,

I bought an older cast iron franklin fireplace for my new cottage. It was
a bit of an impulse buy. I realize that for heating, an airtight is the
only way to go, but the snap crackle pop effect of a fireplace is hard to
beat.

The roof is 12/12 pitch with cathedral ceiling and I plan to put the
insulated chimney up above the peak to ensure good draft.

Keep in mind that heat rises and you absolutely must have a cieling
fan at the peak, maybe even thermostatically controlled.


Yup this is in my plans, although I am half-way thinking of some kind of
rigid pipe with internal fan so I can pull heat from the very peak and
then either redistribute it at floor level or dump it outside.


Anyone have experience with a franklin? Do they work well?

Grew up with parlor stoves years ago. They work fine but need lots of
TLC. The chimney fire and creosote specter is always prsent, so plan
accordingly.

Any suggestings how to make a nice but reasonably easy to build hearth?

Find a store that sells granite countertops and negociate for sdome
cut-offs or rejects of sutable size. Don't pay the $ per square foot
that countertops go for...remember you're just buying some rock to put
under a stove. Standard tiling tchniques ought to do just fine. HTH

Joe

Thanks for the tips!
John

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007, Don Phillipson wrote:

"John van Gurp" wrote in message
bucto.ns.ca...

I bought an older cast iron franklin fireplace for my new cottage. It was
a bit of an impulse buy. I realize that for heating, an airtight is the
only way to go, but the snap crackle pop effect of a fireplace is hard to
beat. . . .
Any suggestings how to make a nice but reasonably easy to build hearth?

In towns, any fireplace or stove must conform to
the current building code, sometimes by a WETT-
licensed installer. The provincial fire safety code
(5 to 15 pages for "solid fuel appliances") is also
full of practical information to do the job yourself
(hearth, spacing for clearances, chimney collar etc.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)


We're well outside any boundaries of civilization but I plan to follow or
exceed code for clearances.

Cheers,
John