It was so dull I had to compare it to the diagram to be sure it wasn't on
backwards...

It hasn't been used much, so I presume I "must" have gotten it into the
dirt, but I don't recall doing that.
Is it possible it came dull?

I realize there is no accurate answer to this, but how many cuts through 12"
fresh pine should it be able to do before it needs to be sharpened, if dirt
is avoided?
1? 10? 100? 1000?

On Jul 11, 10:58 am, "Toller" wrote:
It was so dull I had to compare it to the diagram to be sure it wasn't on
backwards...

It hasn't been used much, so I presume I "must" have gotten it into the
dirt, but I don't recall doing that.
Is it possible it came dull?

I realize there is no accurate answer to this, but how many cuts through 12"
fresh pine should it be able to do before it needs to be sharpened, if dirt
is avoided?
1? 10? 100? 1000?

You should be cutting for half a day or a day before you are worrying
about sharpening anything.

Just a few questions. First, forget the diagram. Go get and saw and
look at it. The teeth have two elements: a rake and a cutting
surface. The chain spins from the top to the tip to the bottom. The
chain cuts on the bottom and pulls the saw towards you.

On the top of the bar, when you look at the teeth, there should be a
rake in the front of the tooth, a small gap then the sharpened
surface. The sharpened surface should be pointing forward, on the top
of the chain.

On the bottom of the bar, the teeth should form a slight sag and be
slightly away from the chain, but the guides should still be inside
the bar.

Got get the chainsaw and push the safety shield all of the way away
from you. Now pull it all of the way back towards you. Next, go
start the chainsaw and open it up full throttle. It should make a
heck of a noise and sound like a chainsaw. The blade should be
spinning WAY beyond what you can see and their shouldn't be any
apparent drag on the motor -- it shouldn't sound like it's working.

Also, when you gas it up, do you add oil to the chain's reservoir?
How much oil gets used when you burn a tank of gas?

Try this, look at the saw, and get back to us and someone will be able
to help.

On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 09:00:34 -0700, Pat
wrote:

On Jul 11, 10:58 am, "Toller" wrote:
It was so dull I had to compare it to the diagram to be sure it wasn't on
backwards...

It hasn't been used much, so I presume I "must" have gotten it into the
dirt, but I don't recall doing that.
Is it possible it came dull?

I realize there is no accurate answer to this, but how many cuts through 12"
fresh pine should it be able to do before it needs to be sharpened, if dirt
is avoided?
1? 10? 100? 1000?

You should be cutting for half a day or a day before you are worrying
about sharpening anything.

Just a few questions. First, forget the diagram. Go get and saw and
look at it. The teeth have two elements: a rake and a cutting
surface. The chain spins from the top to the tip to the bottom. The
chain cuts on the bottom and pulls the saw towards you.

On the top of the bar, when you look at the teeth, there should be a
rake in the front of the tooth, a small gap then the sharpened
surface. The sharpened surface should be pointing forward, on the top
of the chain.

On the bottom of the bar, the teeth should form a slight sag and be
slightly away from the chain, but the guides should still be inside
the bar.

Got get the chainsaw and push the safety shield all of the way away
from you. Now pull it all of the way back towards you. Next, go
start the chainsaw and open it up full throttle. It should make a
heck of a noise and sound like a chainsaw. The blade should be
spinning WAY beyond what you can see and their shouldn't be any
apparent drag on the motor -- it shouldn't sound like it's working.

Also, when you gas it up, do you add oil to the chain's reservoir?
How much oil gets used when you burn a tank of gas?

Try this, look at the saw, and get back to us and someone will be able
to help.

50 or so then sharpen with a chain saw file and do another 50.

Toller wrote:
It was so dull I had to compare it to the diagram to be sure it
wasn't on backwards...

It hasn't been used much, so I presume I "must" have gotten it into
the dirt, but I don't recall doing that.
Is it possible it came dull?

Not likely
___________

I realize there is no accurate answer to this, but how many cuts
through 12" fresh pine should it be able to do before it needs to
be sharpened, if dirt is avoided?
1? 10? 100? 1000?

White pine? Yellow pine? Dry? Wet? When you start to get saw dust
instead of wood flakes, sharpen it.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Toller wrote:

SNIPS

I realize there is no accurate answer to this, but how many cuts through 12"
fresh pine should it be able to do before it needs to be sharpened, if dirt
is avoided?
1? 10? 100? 1000?


16" - 30" Doug fir, properly lifted with a Peavy, or up on sawbucks, or
*very* carefully ground cut 2/3, rolled and cut the other 1/3, maybe 300
rounds cut. Keep it out of the dirt.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
. ..
Toller wrote:

SNIPS

I realize there is no accurate answer to this, but how many cuts through
12" fresh pine should it be able to do before it needs to be sharpened,
if dirt is avoided?
1? 10? 100? 1000?

16" - 30" Doug fir, properly lifted with a Peavy, or up on sawbucks, or
*very* carefully ground cut 2/3, rolled and cut the other 1/3, maybe 300
rounds cut. Keep it out of the dirt.

That would be a lifetime for me. I will be careful from here out!