Anyone has an idea of how to tell if a well is ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year old well with a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a new well?

On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:
Anyone has an idea of how to tell if a well is ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year old well with a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a new well?

Hows its production water wise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:

Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?

Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...

wrote:
On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:

Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?
Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...

Best guess is there's no way anybody here can guess. Talk to you well
man. Very little likelihood of having to drill a new well but might
need some rework of this one at some point.

--

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:

Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?

Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...


I know very little about wells. So before I popped off and said it could be
relined I toured Google.

The good news is YES they can be. Sand and silt in the water supply are the
first signs of failure. Here is a link for your reading pleasu
http://www.krwa.net/lifeline/currentissue/0511save.pdf

Colbyt

Colbyt wrote:

wrote in message
oups.com...

On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:

On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:


Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?

Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...



I know very little about wells. So before I popped off and said it could be
relined I toured Google.

The good news is YES they can be. Sand and silt in the water supply are the
first signs of failure. Here is a link for your reading pleasu
http://www.krwa.net/lifeline/currentissue/0511save.pdf

Colbyt


Unfortunately, that article was about relining a 16" well with a 10" casing.
Residential wells usually don't have any margin for such a size reduction.

M Q wrote:

Colbyt wrote:

wrote in message
oups.com...

On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:

On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:


Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?

Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...



I know very little about wells. So before I popped off and said it could be
relined I toured Google.

The good news is YES they can be. Sand and silt in the water supply are the
first signs of failure. Here is a link for your reading pleasu
http://www.krwa.net/lifeline/currentissue/0511save.pdf

Colbyt


Unfortunately, that article was about relining a 16" well with a 10" casing.
Residential wells usually don't have any margin for such a size reduction.

6" seems pretty typical for a residential casing. Would seem you could
reline with a 5" casing and still comfortably fit a standard 4"
submersible pump.

On Jul 3, 11:32?pm, "Pete C." wrote:
M Q wrote:

Colbyt wrote:

wrote in message
roups.com...

On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:

On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:

Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?

Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...

I know very little about wells. So before I popped off and said it could be
relined I toured Google.

The good news is YES they can be. Sand and silt in the water supply are the
first signs of failure. Here is a link for your reading pleasu
http://www.krwa.net/lifeline/currentissue/0511save.pdf

Colbyt

Unfortunately, that article was about relining a 16" well with a 10" casing.
Residential wells usually don't have any margin for such a size reduction.

6" seems pretty typical for a residential casing. Would seem you could
reline with a 5" casing and still comfortably fit a standard 4"
submersible pump.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

dig around casing at top if possible. how badly rusted is the outside?

the main danger is contaminates can get into your well from shallow
sources.

like a dead animal or car antifreeze leak

Just had my well dug up yesterday to replace the pipe going into the house.
Surprize, surprize. the well casing had been replaced once before. Looked
like the casing had been cut off 3 ft below grade and a new one somehow
attached. The well guy postulated that maybe the pitless adaptor had rusted
in place and they couldnt get the pump out so they just sliced the whole
thing off. My point: they can replace casings so maybe you don't need to do
a whole new well.


"Pete C." wrote in message
...
M Q wrote:

Colbyt wrote:

wrote in message
oups.com...

On Jul 3, 2:20 pm, " wrote:

On Jul 3, 5:19?pm, wrote:


Anyone has an idea of how to tell if awellis ready to be replaced?
I have a 30 year oldwellwith a steel casing that is rusting at the
top. Should I start thinking of drilling a newwell?

Hows its productionwaterwise? is the rust surface rust or rusted out?

The well production is still good: 13 gallons per minute.
There are holes in the cap caused by the rusting (the holes are now
covered). The question is, what is the best guess about the state of
the casing in the well itself...



I know very little about wells. So before I popped off and said it
could be
relined I toured Google.

The good news is YES they can be. Sand and silt in the water supply
are the
first signs of failure. Here is a link for your reading pleasu
http://www.krwa.net/lifeline/currentissue/0511save.pdf

Colbyt


Unfortunately, that article was about relining a 16" well with a 10"
casing.
Residential wells usually don't have any margin for such a size
reduction.

6" seems pretty typical for a residential casing. Would seem you could
reline with a 5" casing and still comfortably fit a standard 4"
submersible pump.

On Jul 4, 10:34 am, "jmagerl" wrote:
the well casing had been replaced once before. Looked
like the casing had been cut off 3 ft below grade and a new one somehow
attached. The well guy postulated that maybe the pitless adaptor had rusted

Perhaps the well was once in a pit and a previous owner extended the
casing and converted to a pitless adapter.

According to jmagerl :
Just had my well dug up yesterday to replace the pipe going into the house.
Surprize, surprize. the well casing had been replaced once before. Looked
like the casing had been cut off 3 ft below grade and a new one somehow
attached. The well guy postulated that maybe the pitless adaptor had rusted
in place and they couldnt get the pump out so they just sliced the whole
thing off. My point: they can replace casings so maybe you don't need to do
a whole new well.

As the other poster suggested, this was probably a pit-type well -
the well head was covered with dirt, and the owner got it extended
above ground level.

We're in the throes of deciding to do this ourselves - digging
up the head gets tiresome after the second time of having to replace
a blown out fitting on the foot valve.

Here, above-ground well heads is mandatory, and the provincial
govt used to (hopefully still is) issuing rebates for extending
it.

[It's pricey according to one quote - ~$1500 - has to be welded
and grouted. "You mean I can't just use a fernco?"]
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Jul 7, 7:47 pm, (Chris Lewis) wrote:

Here, above-ground well heads is mandatory, and the provincial
govt used to (hopefully still is) issuing rebates for extending
it.

[It's pricey according to one quote - ~$1500 - has to be welded
and grouted. "You mean I can't just use a fernco?"]


I did mine with a Fernco and a couple bags of concrete.

According to The Reverend Natural Light :
On Jul 7, 7:47 pm, (Chris Lewis) wrote:

Here, above-ground well heads is mandatory, and the provincial
govt used to (hopefully still is) issuing rebates for extending
it.

[It's pricey according to one quote - ~$1500 - has to be welded
and grouted. "You mean I can't just use a fernco?"]


I did mine with a Fernco and a couple bags of concrete.

Man am I tempted....
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Jul 9, 10:35 am, (Chris Lewis) wrote:

I did mine with a Fernco and a couple bags of concrete.

Man am I tempted....


I have photos of the entire procedure if you're interested.

According to The Reverend Natural Light :
On Jul 9, 10:35 am, (Chris Lewis) wrote:

I did mine with a Fernco and a couple bags of concrete.

Man am I tempted....


I have photos of the entire procedure if you're interested.

I'd love to see them. I tried emailing, but your DNS server
returns FAILED for MX lookups, and that stalls most mail servers.

Let me know at

Thanks!
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.