I'm making a 12-foot valance with 8x13" sides. It will be made from
white pine and have a recessed top set into a groove in the back of
the front valance piece. My question is how to properly attach it to
the wall? I know I will be finding and using studs, but how are
valances usually securely attached?

On Jun 25, 8:15?am, Phisherman wrote:
I'm making a 12-foot valance with 8x13" sides. It will be made from
white pine and have a recessed top set into a groove in the back of
the front valance piece. My question is how to properly attach it to
the wall? I know I will be finding and using studs, but how are
valances usually securely attached?

expanding toggles allow easier locating, studs arent where you want
them

Metal angle brackets, screws, moly bolts, as appropriate, do the
trick. If you put the angle bracket BEHIND the pine piece, you will
see very little of it. Sort of depends on how close you are. Try to
hook into studs with screws, otherwise use moly bolts.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
I'm making a 12-foot valance with 8x13" sides. It will be made from
white pine and have a recessed top set into a groove in the back of
the front valance piece. My question is how to properly attach it to
the wall? I know I will be finding and using studs, but how are
valances usually securely attached?

It the drapery world valences and cornices (more like what you described)
have a top board, the side legs and the face board. They are attached to
the wall using angle brackets. There is really no need to worry about
hitting studs as the legs add a measure of support. One angle bracket every
4' screwed to a stud or attached with a toggle will keep it on the wall as
long as you want. With an 8" projection I would suggest that you use at
least a 5x5 angles and a 6x6 would be better.

You simply attach the angle bracket, set the top board on that and secure
with screws.

To achieve"level" you simply measure down from the ceiling the same amount
for each angle.

Colbyt