I'm having a section of new vinyl fencing put up.
Straight run, nothing fancy - about 50 feet. The
manufacturer is "Country Club Vinyl".

The fence company said they put their posts 3'
under grade (the posts are 6' tall above grade).
And use concrete around the posts.

Now from reading another thread on concrete and
fence posts (albeit for wood ones). Is the best
way to have them do a "quality" install, request
they -

(a). pre mix the concrete OUTSIDE the hole
(b). have them put some gravel in the hole first,
then the concrete

This installation is in NJ southern ocean county.
relatively sandy soil.

What about "frost heave" ? should there be some
specific forms to make the concrete a certain shape?
(say an upside down cone with larger end facing
down).

No contracts signed yet and I want to make sure I
spec out the best way for them to do do it.

Any suggestions/advice on "best practices" to have
it done the right way ?

on 6/17/2007 9:51 AM Joe said the following:
I'm having a section of new vinyl fencing put up.
Straight run, nothing fancy - about 50 feet. The
manufacturer is "Country Club Vinyl".

The fence company said they put their posts 3'
under grade (the posts are 6' tall above grade).
And use concrete around the posts.

Now from reading another thread on concrete and
fence posts (albeit for wood ones). Is the best
way to have them do a "quality" install, request
they -

(a). pre mix the concrete OUTSIDE the hole
(b). have them put some gravel in the hole first,
then the concrete

This installation is in NJ southern ocean county.
relatively sandy soil.

What about "frost heave" ? should there be some
specific forms to make the concrete a certain shape?
(say an upside down cone with larger end facing
down).

No contracts signed yet and I want to make sure I
spec out the best way for them to do do it.

Any suggestions/advice on "best practices" to have
it done the right way ?






I am in NY and my professionally installed posts (4" x 4" wooden PT) are
3' deep and have no concrete except for the corners and gate posts,
which were poured dry some 20 years ago. I wouldn't expect yours to
frost heave any more than mine do, which is negligible, so I don't see
the need for conical shaped holes.
Just a suggestion; I don't know how those pvc posts are constructed, but
if they are hollow 4" x 4"s, I would stuff a 4" x 4" wooden post inside
before installation. When I replaced the wooden picket fence around my
pool, I left the wooden 4x4 posts installed, and just replaced the old
wooden fencing with vinyl. After installation, the 2" x 3" x 8' plastic
rails were not very sturdy and would bend easily when leaned upon. I
removed them all and filled them with 2" x 3" studs which made a big
difference in their sturdiness.


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Jun 17, 8:51 am, "Joe" wrote:
What about "frost heave" ? should there be some
specific forms to make the concrete a certain shape?

It is a fence not a house. Three feet is plenty deep esp considering
that mud will be poured. It sounds to me like your guys know what
they are doing. If they are filling every hole with concrete then
they are doing more than many would. Usually only corner and bracing
posts are set in concrete in good soil.

over time posts can & will fall over. Not saying its fool-proofed, but it
certainly would help. Though not necc., and is overkill unless wanted



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