I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

Thanks for any input.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Here is a photo of the table top
http://www.imagegenie.net/uploads/2861d40444.jpg

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
"Walter R." wrote in message
.. .
I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet
floor, but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but
the stain has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It
does not now have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table
is heavy and looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put
several layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

Thanks for any input.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Walter R. wrote:


What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?


I would try an orbital sander, you might screw it up with a belt
sander.


Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

You know about epoxy resin? Much more durable for a table.

http://www.cherrytreetoys.com/prodin...em=11&dept=295

also ask at www.refinishwizard.com

On Sun, 6 May 2007 17:27:00 -0700, "Walter R."
wrote:

I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

Thanks for any input.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-

Do not use a belt sander!!!

I would use a 1/3 sheet sander.

On May 6, 7:27 pm, "Walter R." wrote:
I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?
---

I use belt sander all the time, but if you're not practiced with one,
I'll agree w/ the others it's potential gouge time...

The picture isn't the best so couldn't tell what the wood itself is,
but if there's no finish other than a penetrating stain at present and
you want to retain a dark color then a sanding starting w/ 80 grit or
so and working your way up to 180 or thereabouts w/ a ROS would be
pretty simple work. W/ the parquet look you'll want the ROS or you'll
have trouble w/ grain direction that will be difficult to remove.

After a smooth surface is achieved, I'd restain to match color again
and then make a choice of finish depending on what you want it to look
like and how it is used. Poly varnishes are hard but can have a
"plastic" look. Personally, I'm partial to the oiled finish unless
the use is extremely wet, plus it's simple and easily renewed.

Thanks dpb

What does ROS stand for?

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
"dpb" wrote in message
s.com...
On May 6, 7:27 pm, "Walter R." wrote:
I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet
floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the
stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not
now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put
several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest
finish
available?
---

I use belt sander all the time, but if you're not practiced with one,
I'll agree w/ the others it's potential gouge time...

The picture isn't the best so couldn't tell what the wood itself is,
but if there's no finish other than a penetrating stain at present and
you want to retain a dark color then a sanding starting w/ 80 grit or
so and working your way up to 180 or thereabouts w/ a ROS would be
pretty simple work. W/ the parquet look you'll want the ROS or you'll
have trouble w/ grain direction that will be difficult to remove.

After a smooth surface is achieved, I'd restain to match color again
and then make a choice of finish depending on what you want it to look
like and how it is used. Poly varnishes are hard but can have a
"plastic" look. Personally, I'm partial to the oiled finish unless
the use is extremely wet, plus it's simple and easily renewed.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

I use belt sander all the time, but if you're not practiced with one,
I'll agree w/ the others it's potential gouge time...



I don't see potential gouges as the major issue. I think the major issue
is that the wood is laid in two different directions -- how you gonna
belt sand a parquet surface "with the grain?"

HI Walter,

I've refinished a number of old things.I am just terrible about saving old
pieces, dragging them home and loving them back to life. I'm in the middle
of refinishing an old sideboard right now.

The tabletop you have looks really nice to me. It has a lot of personality.
I like the rustic look of the wood. It's a nice piece.

First, I would use an orbital sancer, not a belt sancer. Belt sanders have a
tendancy to gouge and are very directional in their use. An orbital will
work nicely with the changing direction of the wood grain.

You've said that the table has no finish on it presently, though from the
photo it looks as if it does.

Before staining or sanding get a can of paint stripper and strip it first.
Then wash it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner with just a dollop of
paint thinner mixed in to slow the drying time.
Wear gloves, stripper will burn your hands.

When it's all clean and dry, then start with about a 100 grit sandpaper on
your sander and get it smooth, then on to a 220 to get all of the sanding
scratches out of it.

Next, if you want to stain it, go ahead, then apply a clear coat.

For a DIY project like this I would use a Minwax Polyurethan finish and put
a minimum of three coats on it. The first being a light coat and the next
two medium.
If you get bumps you can lightly sand them out with a 400 grit before the
final coat to give it a nice even finish.

You will need to have patience for this project but in the end you will be
so happy with it and be proud of your accomplishment.

For folks who really know their woodworking try the guys in rec.woodworking

Best of luck, I'd like to see some photos when you've finished it!

Kate
O|||||||O


"Walter R." wrote in message
.. .
I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

Thanks for any input.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Oh and by the way, a satin finish wears nicely to a soft glow in no time at
all.

Kate
O|||||||O

On May 7, 11:27 am, Smitty Two wrote:
I use belt sander all the time, but if you're not practiced with one,
I'll agree w/ the others it's potential gouge time...

I don't see potential gouges as the major issue. I think the major issue
is that the wood is laid in two different directions -- how you gonna
belt sand a parquet surface "with the grain?"

For initial surface removal isn't critical if the point is to remove
the present stain. Go "catty-wampus" across both, then go to finer
grits, then go to the ROS.

Walter R. wrote:
Thanks dpb

What does ROS stand for?

Random orbit sander -- recommend Porter-Cable as combination of
inexpensive yet good -- probably available locally at one of the big
box stores for about what it is online. (BTW, the Orange Borg has
Ryobi that may be cheaper -- I recommend strongly against it because
of the case design is _terribly_ uncomfortable in my opinion. It'll
do the job, but is much less of a tool and the price differential if
any is well worth it for the P-C). Don't need the VS (variable speed)
for this job. I prefer the pressure-sensitive pad instead of hook &
loop because the paper is half the cost or less, but I do a lot of
woodworking so it matters. For the occasional user, the convenience
may be more advantage than the extra cost of paper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B000GIO1UG

Somebody else recommend Minwax polyurethane -- I am partial to Minwax
Original Oil Finish and have no problems w/ most of their other
products as well _EXCEPT_ for the relatively new "Polyshades" line --
it is terrible. Daughter had used some on refinishing her kitchen
cabinets and was a real pita to get something even half-way acceptable
out of the mess it left. Avoid that like the plague.

--

"Kate" wrote

Before staining or sanding get a can of paint stripper and strip it first.
Then wash it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner with just a dollop of
paint thinner mixed in to slow the drying time.
Wear gloves, stripper will burn your hands.

snip

You really know your stuff. Any advice on stripping an
oak table with what I believe is polyurethane finish? I have a
heat gun and was wondering if that would be the way to go.

nancy

Thanks for your detailed instructions, Kate. Looks like I have my work cut
out for me.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
"Kate" wrote in message
...
HI Walter,

I've refinished a number of old things.I am just terrible about saving old
pieces, dragging them home and loving them back to life. I'm in the middle
of refinishing an old sideboard right now.

The tabletop you have looks really nice to me. It has a lot of
personality.
I like the rustic look of the wood. It's a nice piece.

First, I would use an orbital sancer, not a belt sancer. Belt sanders have
a
tendancy to gouge and are very directional in their use. An orbital will
work nicely with the changing direction of the wood grain.

You've said that the table has no finish on it presently, though from the
photo it looks as if it does.

Before staining or sanding get a can of paint stripper and strip it first.
Then wash it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner with just a dollop of
paint thinner mixed in to slow the drying time.
Wear gloves, stripper will burn your hands.

When it's all clean and dry, then start with about a 100 grit sandpaper on
your sander and get it smooth, then on to a 220 to get all of the sanding
scratches out of it.

Next, if you want to stain it, go ahead, then apply a clear coat.

For a DIY project like this I would use a Minwax Polyurethan finish and
put
a minimum of three coats on it. The first being a light coat and the next
two medium.
If you get bumps you can lightly sand them out with a 400 grit before the
final coat to give it a nice even finish.

You will need to have patience for this project but in the end you will be
so happy with it and be proud of your accomplishment.

For folks who really know their woodworking try the guys in
rec.woodworking

Best of luck, I'd like to see some photos when you've finished it!

Kate
O|||||||O


"Walter R." wrote in message
.. .
I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet
floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not
now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put
several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

Thanks for any input.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On May 7, 12:44 pm, "Walter R." wrote:
Thanks for your detailed instructions, Kate. Looks like I have my work cut
out for me.

....

Unless there is a finish coat of varnish or shellac or similar on top,
the stripper will do very little if anything on a penetrating stain.
But, if it is a finish laid on top of the wood instead of being soaked
in, it will allow you to remove it first.

It depends on what you're after as a finished product -- if you want
to simply refurbish an existing finish and there isn't a varnish or
other layer as you suggested initially, a quick sanding to remove
dings/scratches and a new similar oil-based penetrating stain will
blend into the existing and leave a uniform color. After that, it's a
choice of whether you want a hard finish like a varnish or something
more subtle like an oil--both have advantages/disadvantages...

If you want to get back closer to the original wood color before
staining, you could try the oxalic acid bleaching route...

There are as many ways in detail as there are people to supply their
ideas...

I just bought a Ridgid, available at Home Depot... I LOVE it.
It's quiet, uses velcro adhesive for the sanding discs, is variable speed
with a pretty good dust collector.
Nice long cord too and of course a storage case.

Kate
O|||||||O


"dpb" wrote in message
oups.com...

Walter R. wrote:
Thanks dpb

What does ROS stand for?

Random orbit sander -- recommend Porter-Cable as combination of
inexpensive yet good -- probably available locally at one of the big
box stores for about what it is online. (BTW, the Orange Borg has
Ryobi that may be cheaper -- I recommend strongly against it because
of the case design is _terribly_ uncomfortable in my opinion. It'll
do the job, but is much less of a tool and the price differential if
any is well worth it for the P-C). Don't need the VS (variable speed)
for this job. I prefer the pressure-sensitive pad instead of hook &
loop because the paper is half the cost or less, but I do a lot of
woodworking so it matters. For the occasional user, the convenience
may be more advantage than the extra cost of paper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B000GIO1UG

Somebody else recommend Minwax polyurethane -- I am partial to Minwax
Original Oil Finish and have no problems w/ most of their other
products as well _EXCEPT_ for the relatively new "Polyshades" line --
it is terrible. Daughter had used some on refinishing her kitchen
cabinets and was a real pita to get something even half-way acceptable
out of the mess it left. Avoid that like the plague.

--

Hi Nancy,

I can't say I know everything, far from it! But - I've made enough mistakes
to know a lot of things NOT to do LOL.

I've tried heat guns to strip and all that seems to happen (in my world) is
that it turns to goo and I end up using stripper on it anyway.
It's tedious at best and slow going.

For removing urethane I think I would use this:
http://www.homaxproducts.com/product.../10/index.html

Then just keep on pluggin

Kate
O|||||||O


"Nancy Young" wrote in message
. ..

"Kate" wrote

Before staining or sanding get a can of paint stripper and strip it first.
Then wash it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner with just a dollop of
paint thinner mixed in to slow the drying time.
Wear gloves, stripper will burn your hands.

snip

You really know your stuff. Any advice on stripping an
oak table with what I believe is polyurethane finish? I have a
heat gun and was wondering if that would be the way to go.

nancy

My Pleasure Walter,
It sounds a LOT harder than it is but the feeling you get when you have it
all done is wonderful.

My solid walnut dining room table is about 100 years old. I resued it from
under a carport where the rain was pouring down onto it.
It's now a wonderful piece of furniture that everyone admires. It still has
some carachter marks that I chose not to fix and I had to paint the legs
because they were so badly damaged but I still love it!

Good luck, and if you get stuck, holler maybe I can help!
svtkate AT selby DOT ws

Kate
O|||||||O


"Walter R." wrote in message
.. .
Thanks for your detailed instructions, Kate. Looks like I have my work cut
out for me.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
"Kate" wrote in message
...
HI Walter,

I've refinished a number of old things.I am just terrible about saving old
pieces, dragging them home and loving them back to life. I'm in the middle
of refinishing an old sideboard right now.

The tabletop you have looks really nice to me. It has a lot of
personality.
I like the rustic look of the wood. It's a nice piece.

First, I would use an orbital sancer, not a belt sancer. Belt sanders have
a
tendancy to gouge and are very directional in their use. An orbital will
work nicely with the changing direction of the wood grain.

You've said that the table has no finish on it presently, though from the
photo it looks as if it does.

Before staining or sanding get a can of paint stripper and strip it first.
Then wash it with a scotch brite and lacquer thinner with just a dollop of
paint thinner mixed in to slow the drying time.
Wear gloves, stripper will burn your hands.

When it's all clean and dry, then start with about a 100 grit sandpaper on
your sander and get it smooth, then on to a 220 to get all of the sanding
scratches out of it.

Next, if you want to stain it, go ahead, then apply a clear coat.

For a DIY project like this I would use a Minwax Polyurethan finish and
put
a minimum of three coats on it. The first being a light coat and the next
two medium.
If you get bumps you can lightly sand them out with a 400 grit before the
final coat to give it a nice even finish.

You will need to have patience for this project but in the end you will be
so happy with it and be proud of your accomplishment.

For folks who really know their woodworking try the guys in
rec.woodworking

Best of luck, I'd like to see some photos when you've finished it!

Kate
O|||||||O


"Walter R." wrote in message
.. .
I would like to refinish (do "something" to improve the appearance of) my
octagonal breakfast table.

The top is a composite of small pieces of wood, similar to a parquet
floor,
but smaller individual pieces. It was stained a dark walnut, but the stain
has been partially worn off causing an unsightly appearance. It does not
now
have a varnish or other finish, except the stain. The table is heavy and
looks somewhat rustic, rather than elegant.

What is the best way to enhance the appearance of the table top? Should I
use a belt sander to remove the top layer, re-stain it and then put
several
layers of clear polyurethane finish on it?

Is there a better or easier way to go? Is polyurethane the toughest finish
available?

Thanks for any input.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"dpb" wrote
*snip*

There are as many ways in detail as there are people to supply their
ideas...

Boy, you said it all right there.
What works for one person may not work for the next guy.
(or gal)

Kate
O|||||||O

On May 7, 2:26 pm, "Kate" wrote:
I just bought a Ridgid, available at Home Depot... I LOVE it.
It's quiet, uses velcro adhesive for the sanding discs, is variable speed
with a pretty good dust collector.
Nice long cord too and of course a storage case.

I have same basic complaint against the Ridgid as the Ryobi -- to me
they are not comfortable to hold for any length of time. No idea how
well one would hold up in comparison to the P-C, either. I've done
complete sanding job in paint prep on old barn w/ 3-1/8" siding w/ the
cove so can't use anything larger to follow the edge w/ the P-C's.
Used 12-14 hr/day almost continous for hours over a structure 66-ft
long by 38-ft wide, 14-ft high to the bottom eave edge, 40-ft high to
the center ridge on each end. After that abuse, they're still going
strong w/ only a replacement set of bearings on one of them. One (and
the recommendation is good because I can't tell which) was dropped on
the concrete slab from the manlift platform while working near the top
so it was well over 30-ft. Went down, picket it up, plugged it in and
away it went...

Only complaint I have w/ the newer models is the "brake" system -- it
is only a large o-ring around a post inside. The friction builds up a
tremendous amount of heat and over a long time fried the bearings
(hence the new in the one) and makes it imperative to wear gloves if
run it for hours at a time. I now open them up before ever using them
and simply take the o-ring out and throw it in the spares bin...