Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?

On 26 Apr 2007 08:57:27 -0700, DJW wrote:

Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?


Nail about an inch above the strip.

"DJW" wrote in message
ups.com...
Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?

I think I do not know near as much about shingles and their proper
installation as does the manufacturer. I do agree that it is nice to know
why when there is something I do not understand. I am sure that the nailing
recommendations are based on leak and blow-off testing of different nailing
methods.

Don Young

DJW wrote:
Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?

Think about what? If the manufacturer is correct?

The fact that your 27 yr old shingles were nailed differently than NEW
Owens are, is totally irrelevant to each other. Who was the old
manufacturer, and what was the nailing placement recommendation?

Your thoughts sound like something my ex-brother-in law would come up
with. Is your name Gary? If so, when did they release you?

DJW wrote in news:1177603047.234794.81190
@n15g2000prd.googlegroups.com:

Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?



Follow direction on the package for the shingle you bought. Even for the
same mfgr, different directions based on product.

On Apr 26, 7:23 pm, Al Bundy wrote:
DJW wrote in news:1177603047.234794.81190
@n15g2000prd.googlegroups.com:





Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?

Follow direction on the package for the shingle you bought. Even for the
same mfgr, different directions based on product.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Correct. If he varies from what the bundle says, any warrantee is
void.

Harry K

"DJW" wrote in message
ups.com...
| Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
| when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
| nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
| the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
| bad but still I have no leaks.
| Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
| the nail for the following reasons?
| 1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
| has done it's thing.
| 2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
| 3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
| edge.
| I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
| anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
| that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
| that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
| stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
| What do you think?
|


nail above tar strip and over each notch.
storm nailing is two nails over each slot (1 left of notch, 1right of
notch).
and one nail at each end.

the tar strip is for sealing the shingles NOT the nails.

TIP
make sure nails go thru shingle below.
if nailed above shingle below, the front of the shingle will lift. and
not seal properly.
do NOT remove plastic strip from shingles.

DJW wrote:
Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?


People fixate over that little tar strip, but the mfg. instructions are
the way to go. What shingle is it? The website might have additional
instructions and ratings for wind, etc. Be sure that all is according
to their instructions - deck, underlayment, etc. Nail length, placement
and spacing are all important. If it is a laminated shingle or steep
roof, there might be additonal options, like cementing tabs.

I am not a roofer, but I can almost guarantee that the tar strip doesn't
have any effect on nails pulling. That would be determined by what you
use to nail, and what you nail into.

If there is fascia work that needs to be done, do it before the shingles.

Nail about an inch above the strip.


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nail above tar strip and over each notch.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!


storm nailing is two nails over each slot (1 left of notch, 1right of
notch).
and one nail at each end.

the tar strip is for sealing the shingles NOT the nails.

TIP
make sure nails go thru shingle below.

IF nailed as you say, they will not do that. That is why you nail BELOW
the tar strip


if nailed above shingle below, the front of the shingle will lift. and
not seal properly.
do NOT remove plastic strip from shingles.

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip



This is what CRAPPY roofers do to avoid having nail head show, and will
degrade the life of your roof.

WHY?

Heat kills shingles.

Shingles lose their heat to the roof deck.

If you nail too high on the shingle, the shingle never sets right and
will eventually curl, losing its abilty to get rid of its heat,
accelerating the curling etc etc

If you nail properly, you will waste some shingle by inadvertantly
nailing too low, but you will NOT get leaks from the nails that are
below the tar strip

On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 20:53:46 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:


"DJW" wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and very
bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the sun
has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would be
stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?

I think I do not know near as much about shingles and their proper
installation as does the manufacturer. I do agree that it is nice to know
why when there is something I do not understand. I am sure that the nailing
recommendations are based on leak and blow-off testing of different nailing
methods.

Don Young

A standard 3-tab is 18" by 36" with an 8" exposure, right?
That means that there's a 2" band to put a nail where it
will both penetrate the back edge of the shingle below,
and be covered by the shingle above. Within that
2" strip, I expect you want the nail as low as possible
so that there's less flap to blow around in the wind,
but back far enough that wind-driven water doesn't back up
under the shingle around the nail-head.

On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 14:28:32 GMT, yourname wrote:

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip



This is what CRAPPY roofers do to avoid having nail head show, and will
degrade the life of your roof.

WHY?

Heat kills shingles.

Shingles lose their heat to the roof deck.

If you nail too high on the shingle, the shingle never sets right and
will eventually curl, losing its abilty to get rid of its heat,
accelerating the curling etc etc

If you nail properly, you will waste some shingle by inadvertantly
nailing too low, but you will NOT get leaks from the nails that are
below the tar strip


I refuse to respond to this obvious troll.

On Apr 27, 7:00 pm, (Lamey) wrote:
On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 14:28:32 GMT, yourname wrote:
Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

Do not nail above the tar strip

This is what CRAPPY roofers do to avoid having nail head show, and will
degrade the life of your roof.

WHY?

Heat kills shingles.

Shingles lose their heat to the roof deck.

If you nail too high on the shingle, the shingle never sets right and
will eventually curl, losing its abilty to get rid of its heat,
accelerating the curling etc etc

If you nail properly, you will waste some shingle by inadvertantly
nailing too low, but you will NOT get leaks from the nails that are
below the tar strip

I refuse to respond to this obvious troll.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't believe the entire thread. It should have only had two
posts. The OP and a reply that said "READ THE DIRECTIONS, STUPID".
Most of the posts are on the order of 'this is what I think'. The
manufacturer knows the proper procedure and it is printed in neat
little letters on every bundle wrapper.

Harry K

Goedjn wrote in
:

On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 20:53:46 -0500, "Don Young"
wrote:


"DJW" wrote in message
roups.com...
Ok I have read the directions on my Owens-Corning shingles. However
when I started to remove the existing old shingles I see they were
nailed in the tar seal strip. Now I am not sure if back 27 years ago
the installer had used nail guns. But the shingles are dried and
very bad but still I have no leaks.
Aside from the warranty being voided isn't this a good place to put
the nail for the following reasons?
1. The tar will seal around the nail shaft and the head after the
sun has done it's thing.
2. The sealing might stop the nail from popping up in the future.
3. The nail is a bit farther up from the above courses tab's lower
edge.
I am amazed that the nail is so close to the edge of the overlap
anyway when installed via the directions. I would think if anything
that the nail should go above the tar seal strip. That way any water
that might be pulled up under the shingle by capillary action would
be stopped by the seal of the two shingles before reaching the nail.
What do you think?

I think I do not know near as much about shingles and their proper
installation as does the manufacturer. I do agree that it is nice to
know why when there is something I do not understand. I am sure that
the nailing recommendations are based on leak and blow-off testing of
different nailing methods.

Don Young

A standard 3-tab is 18" by 36" with an 8" exposure, right?
That means that there's a 2" band to put a nail where it
will both penetrate the back edge of the shingle below,
and be covered by the shingle above. Within that
2" strip, I expect you want the nail as low as possible
so that there's less flap to blow around in the wind,
but back far enough that wind-driven water doesn't back up
under the shingle around the nail-head.




8" exposure.....OKaaaaaay.

A standard 3-tab is 18" by 36" with an 8" exposure, right?
That means that there's a 2" band to put a nail where it
will both penetrate the back edge of the shingle below,
and be covered by the shingle above. Within that
2" strip, I expect you want the nail as low as possible
so that there's less flap to blow around in the wind,
but back far enough that wind-driven water doesn't back up
under the shingle around the nail-head.


8" exposure.....OKaaaaaay.

Ok, so Certainteed's carriage house aren't as standard
as I thought. If you're using a wimpy-ass timberline
shingle that's only 12" deep, then the exposure is 5".

Which still gives you a 2" stripe to hit on the underlying
shingle.

On Apr 30, 7:59 am, Goedjn wrote:
A standard 3-tab is 18" by 36" with an 8" exposure, right?
That means that there's a 2" band to put a nail where it
will both penetrate the back edge of the shingle below,
and be covered by the shingle above. Within that
2" strip, I expect you want the nail as low as possible
so that there's less flap to blow around in the wind,
but back far enough that wind-driven water doesn't back up
under the shingle around the nail-head.

8" exposure.....OKaaaaaay.

Ok, so Certainteed's carriage house aren't as standard
as I thought. If you're using a wimpy-ass timberline
shingle that's only 12" deep, then the exposure is 5".

Which still gives you a 2" stripe to hit on the underlying
shingle.

And figuring that nailing anywhere in the 2" strip is 'good enough'
voids the warantee.

Harry K