With the standard 3 foot three tab shingles what is the best order of
courses to stager the joints?
After the starter course I use a full three tab shingles. Then cut 6
inches off the end tab of the next course. At this point is where I am
not sure what to do. Do I cut a full tab off for the number three
course? And use a two full tab section. Then go to a cut down t 6 inch
and a full tab for number 4 course. And then repeat? At course five to
8 and so on?

On Apr 20, 9:03 am, DJW wrote:
With the standard 3 foot three tab shingles what is the best order of
courses to stager the joints?
After the starter course I use a full three tab shingles. Then cut 6
inches off the end tab of the next course. At this point is where I am
not sure what to do. Do I cut a full tab off for the number three
course? And use a two full tab section. Then go to a cut down t 6 inch
and a full tab for number 4 course. And then repeat? At course five to
8 and so on?

Take a look here..........
http://www.malarkey-rfg.com/PDFFiles...nstrct0305.pdf

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2shingle

Do I cut a full tab off for the number three
course?
No, a full course......you can wait for the cutting......let it hang
over the edge..........when roof is complete then you can
cut..........this leaves a nice straight edge if your roof isnt 100%
square.

On Apr 20, 6:03 am, DJW wrote:
With the standard 3 foot three tab shingles what is the best order of
courses to stager the joints?
After the starter course I use a full three tab shingles. Then cut 6
inches off the end tab of the next course. At this point is where I am
not sure what to do. Do I cut a full tab off for the number three
course? And use a two full tab section. Then go to a cut down t 6 inch
and a full tab for number 4 course. And then repeat? At course five to
8 and so on?

Read the instructions on the bundle. They are (usually) very clear.
Note that there are options on staggering the courses. A sign of an
amatueur job is where the cutouts line up in a straight line up the
roof (skipping every other course). An offset (bundle gives the
measurement) where the cutouts go up at an angle both look much better
and hide errors.

Took me several jobs (okay, so I'm slow) to learn that investing in a
shingle hatchet (hammer) makes the job go much faster and more
accurate. It spaces the shingle both vertically (for each shingle)
and horizontally (when starting a row).

Harry K