What is the layout order of starting three tab shingles rows?
With the standard 3 foot three tab shingles what is the best order of
courses to stager the joints? After the starter course I use a full three tab shingles. Then cut 6 inches off the end tab of the next course. At this point is where I am not sure what to do. Do I cut a full tab off for the number three course? And use a two full tab section. Then go to a cut down t 6 inch and a full tab for number 4 course. And then repeat? At course five to 8 and so on? |
What is the layout order of starting three tab shingles rows?
On Apr 20, 9:03 am, DJW wrote:
With the standard 3 foot three tab shingles what is the best order of courses to stager the joints? After the starter course I use a full three tab shingles. Then cut 6 inches off the end tab of the next course. At this point is where I am not sure what to do. Do I cut a full tab off for the number three course? And use a two full tab section. Then go to a cut down t 6 inch and a full tab for number 4 course. And then repeat? At course five to 8 and so on? Take a look here.......... http://www.malarkey-rfg.com/PDFFiles...nstrct0305.pdf http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2shingle Do I cut a full tab off for the number three course? No, a full course......you can wait for the cutting......let it hang over the edge..........when roof is complete then you can cut..........this leaves a nice straight edge if your roof isnt 100% square. |
What is the layout order of starting three tab shingles rows?
On Apr 20, 6:03 am, DJW wrote:
With the standard 3 foot three tab shingles what is the best order of courses to stager the joints? After the starter course I use a full three tab shingles. Then cut 6 inches off the end tab of the next course. At this point is where I am not sure what to do. Do I cut a full tab off for the number three course? And use a two full tab section. Then go to a cut down t 6 inch and a full tab for number 4 course. And then repeat? At course five to 8 and so on? Read the instructions on the bundle. They are (usually) very clear. Note that there are options on staggering the courses. A sign of an amatueur job is where the cutouts line up in a straight line up the roof (skipping every other course). An offset (bundle gives the measurement) where the cutouts go up at an angle both look much better and hide errors. Took me several jobs (okay, so I'm slow) to learn that investing in a shingle hatchet (hammer) makes the job go much faster and more accurate. It spaces the shingle both vertically (for each shingle) and horizontally (when starting a row). Harry K |
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