I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

On Apr 6, 5:08 pm, " wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

Also, pay attention to vapor barrier at ceiling level, insulation of
ducts above the insulation, & venting.
T

On Apr 6, 6:11�pm, wrote:
On Apr 6, 5:08 pm, " wrote:





I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. *(about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

Also, pay attention to vapor barrier at ceiling level, insulation of
ducts above the insulation, & venting.
T- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

or install foam blown in place, R6 per inch

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Need or want? Generally, the more the better, but there is some diminishing
return. In your area, it is probably a better benefit for AC than for
heating. What is the cost difference doing it the two different ways?
$100? Then go for the most. $1000? then I'd go closer to the R30.

As the cost of energy goes up, the return for more insulation gets better.
Your energy cost may be 20% to 50% higher in a couple of years so factor
that into your decision.

wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is always
better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical to go higher.
Few people go that high. More efficient systems will mean less payback from
insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet the cost of energy is going
nowhere but up so I would suggest erroring on the high side. Don't forget
to add additional insulation for any ducts that are running up in that
attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan" wrote:
wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is always
better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical to go higher.
Few people go that high. More efficient systems will mean less payback from
insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet the cost of energy is going
nowhere but up so I would suggest erroring on the high side. Don't forget
to add additional insulation for any ducts that are running up in that
attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes more
trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

On Apr 6, 5:08 pm, " wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****


the more you can afford to put into the space, the more comfortable
the house will be. we have always added new insulation into every
affordable wall and floor.

On Apr 6, 11:45 pm, wrote:
On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan" wrote:



wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is always
better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical to go higher.
Few people go that high. More efficient systems will mean less payback from
insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet the cost of energy is going
nowhere but up so I would suggest erroring on the high side. Don't forget
to add additional insulation for any ducts that are running up in that
attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes more
trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman


Thanks.

I'm working on the soffit vents and baffels.

WOW! This stuff makes a yoga class look like a walk in the
park. :-)

Lewis.

*****

On Apr 6, 11:45 pm, wrote:
On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan" wrote:



wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is always
better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical to go higher.
Few people go that high. More efficient systems will mean less payback from
insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet the cost of energy is going
nowhere but up so I would suggest erroring on the high side. Don't forget
to add additional insulation for any ducts that are running up in that
attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes more
trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

We are adding on to our house, and when I talked to my inspector about
vapor barrier, he downplayed the need for it, indicating that we could
use a primer under our paint which would be rated as a vapor barrier.
He said that as long it had a rating of 1 perm, it would be ok.

JK

Big_Jake wrote:
On Apr 6, 11:45 pm, wrote:
On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:



wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the
'R' value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49.
(about 14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill
and that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would
appreciate it if someone who has done this themselves, in this
area, would care to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will
need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is
always better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical
to go higher. Few people go that high. More efficient systems will
mean less payback from insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet
the cost of energy is going nowhere but up so I would suggest
erroring on the high side. Don't forget to add additional
insulation for any ducts that are running up in that attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes
more trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

We are adding on to our house, and when I talked to my inspector about
vapor barrier, he downplayed the need for it, indicating that we could
use a primer under our paint which would be rated as a vapor barrier.
He said that as long it had a rating of 1 perm, it would be ok.

JK

If he made that remark related to the idea of removing existing
insulation in order to add a vapor barrier, I would suggest that it might
not be a bad idea. On the other hand if he is talking about skipping the
install of a conventional vapor barrier during a conventional install, I
would suggest ignoring almost anything he says.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

On 6 Apr 2007 14:08:31 -0700, "
wrote:

I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

I looked up Pa codes, and found something weird. Eventhough R49 was
in the IRC, Pa said 30 was ok. I thought about it this way further,
money into insulation or money into the utilitie company's pockets.
Needless to say I invested in my home.

tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com

On Apr 7, 7:34 am, "Big_Jake" wrote:
On Apr 6, 11:45 pm, wrote:



On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan" wrote:

wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is always
better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical to go higher.
Few people go that high. More efficient systems will mean less payback from
insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet the cost of energy is going
nowhere but up so I would suggest erroring on the high side. Don't forget
to add additional insulation for any ducts that are running up in that
attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes more
trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

We are adding on to our house, and when I talked to my inspector about
vapor barrier, he downplayed the need for it, indicating that we could
use a primer under our paint which would be rated as a vapor barrier.
He said that as long it had a rating of 1 perm, it would be ok.

JK

I know they make a paint that is supposed to be a vapor barrier. I
would want to hear it from the paint dealer that his product is a full
and complete replacement for the attic vapor barrier, not just a
supplement. I owned and operated a home inspection company in the
early 90's. You would be amazed at how many houses had the insulation
installed upside down. Obviously, the city code inspector passed them
when it was built. This traps vapor (read water) in the fiberglass
with no means to disperse. Molded drywall results. If the warm moist
inside air contacts the colder atmospheric temperature of a properly
vented attic, condensation occurs. I know you don't have varying
temperature like we see in Chicago but if they specify that much
insulation they must expect it to insulate the home interior envelope
from some exterior temperature extreme. Better safe than sorry.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

On Apr 7, 8:47 pm, wrote:
On Apr 7, 7:34 am, "Big_Jake" wrote:





On Apr 6, 11:45 pm, wrote:

On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan" wrote:

wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is always
better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical to go higher.
Few people go that high. More efficient systems will mean less payback from
insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet the cost of energy is going
nowhere but up so I would suggest erroring on the high side. Don't forget
to add additional insulation for any ducts that are running up in that
attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes more
trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

We are adding on to our house, and when I talked to my inspector about
vapor barrier, he downplayed the need for it, indicating that we could
use a primer under our paint which would be rated as a vapor barrier.
He said that as long it had a rating of 1 perm, it would be ok.

JK

I know they make a paint that is supposed to be a vapor barrier. I
would want to hear it from the paint dealer that his product is a full
and complete replacement for the attic vapor barrier, not just a
supplement. I owned and operated a home inspection company in the
early 90's. You would be amazed at how many houses had the insulation
installed upside down. Obviously, the city code inspector passed them
when it was built. This traps vapor (read water) in the fiberglass
with no means to disperse. Molded drywall results. If the warm moist
inside air contacts the colder atmospheric temperature of a properly
vented attic, condensation occurs. I know you don't have varying
temperature like we see in Chicago but if they specify that much
insulation they must expect it to insulate the home interior envelope
from some exterior temperature extreme. Better safe than sorry.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Codes on insulation are minimums never the optimal, nor do they
reflect present utility costs or future increases, most are way
outdated. Whatever you put in it will settle, cellulose will settle
the most and deteriorate as its only paper. My fiberglass settled 15%,
for cellulose Id figure double as a guess. If winter heating is
minimal a vapor barrier may noy be as big an issue as it is up north,
Put in what is optimal, your DIY store employees really dont know.

On Apr 7, 10:46 am, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:
Big_Jake wrote:
On Apr 6, 11:45 pm, wrote:
On Apr 6, 6:31 pm, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the
'R' value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49.
(about 14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill
and that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would
appreciate it if someone who has done this themselves, in this
area, would care to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will
need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

There are local minimums. I consider them just that. More is
always better, but there comes a time when it becomes un-economical
to go higher. Few people go that high. More efficient systems will
mean less payback from insulation, but as time goes on, you can bet
the cost of energy is going nowhere but up so I would suggest
erroring on the high side. Don't forget to add additional
insulation for any ducts that are running up in that attic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your original post said you were blowing yourself. I hope you saw the
reply about vapor barrier. I am near Chicago and our requirement is R
30. Typically a 6" R-19 batt with vapor barrier (always facing the
inside) then blow on about 6 inches to get a consistant blown R-11
after settling. The next big issue is the attic ventilation. Buy foam
chutes at the local home store to prevent the insulation from
contacting the sheathing near the edges. This allows air to travel
from the soffit vent up to the high roof vents. Without proper vapor
barrier and ventilation you don't gain from insulation, it causes
more trouble.

Dave Scudamore
Aroundtoit Handyman

We are adding on to our house, and when I talked to my inspector about
vapor barrier, he downplayed the need for it, indicating that we could
use a primer under our paint which would be rated as a vapor barrier.
He said that as long it had a rating of 1 perm, it would be ok.

JK

If he made that remark related to the idea of removing existing
insulation in order to add a vapor barrier, I would suggest that it might
not be a bad idea. On the other hand if he is talking about skipping the
install of a conventional vapor barrier during a conventional install, I
would suggest ignoring almost anything he says.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Since he will be signing off on my permit, ignoring him would be
really bad. :-)

JK

:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the
'R' value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49.
(about 14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill
and that about 30 will do about all I need.


The electric utility in Tucson AZ (where its hotter than FW) says to go with
R 30
Above that is a waste of $$

R-49 is not practical in an attic that will be finished. R 30 seems
to be standard in most places. If you can ft more and want to pay
thats on youbut 30 will suit most people fine especially when combined
with a radiant barrier like reflectix.


On Apr 7, 7:59 pm, Just Joshin wrote:
On 6 Apr 2007 14:08:31 -0700, "





wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

I looked up Pa codes, and found something weird. Eventhough R49 was
in the IRC, Pa said 30 was ok. I thought about it this way further,
money into insulation or money into the utilitie company's pockets.
Needless to say I invested in my home.

tom @www.WorkAtHomePlans.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On 12 Apr 2007 05:09:50 -0700, wrote:

R-49 is not practical in an attic that will be finished. R 30 seems
to be standard in most places. If you can ft more and want to pay
thats on youbut 30 will suit most people fine especially when combined
with a radiant barrier like reflectix.

I pointed out that it seems that local codes only require R30. However
I never saw anything about using any radiant barriers.

Just saying, I'm guessing, the cost of fuels will go up. Just a
guess... and with global warming causing the potential for more snow
now. Don't ask me, ask Gore why we had a threat of wet snow lately.
Having more insulation in the attic space, where able, might be a good
investment in your home.

Just what I did, not an R-expert.

tom




On Apr 7, 7:59 pm, Just Joshin wrote:
On 6 Apr 2007 14:08:31 -0700, "





wrote:
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the 'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49. (about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Thanks.

Lewis.

*****

I looked up Pa codes, and found something weird. Eventhough R49 was
in the IRC, Pa said 30 was ok. I thought about it this way further,
money into insulation or money into the utilitie company's pockets.
Needless to say I invested in my home.

tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

fwfrog had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...on-208024-.htm
:
Although this post is nearly 2 years old, I find I'm in the same boat, in
the same part of town as the original author of this thread. Can anyone
advise?

We have a house that's over 80 years old, most brick exterior, roughly
1000 sq. feet with an open attic. We have a gas furnace in the attic as
well.

There's a very thin layer of cellulose in place - but it's so bare you can
see the 2x4's sticking up all along the attic floor.

We have two companies that have bid to blow insulation in our attic (as
they put it, the "white stuff" that looks like "snow").

Here are the bids:
R-30 (12 inches) for $200
R-38 (17 inches) for $460
-or-
R-49 (inches unknown) for $698

According to the Energy Star chart, we need R-30 at the minimum.

Would R-38 or R-49 be worth the extra cost? Or is this overkill?

Do you have to live in the house for a long time afterwards to see a
return in your investment (based on monthly savings in your A/C or heating
bill)?

I should also mention that we had a brand new A/C unit (with, I believe, a
SEER rating of 14) installed not even 18 months ago.

Any tips would be appreciated! Thanks!

-------------------------------------
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the
'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49.
(about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill
and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would
appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would
care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.

Need or want? Generally, the more the better, but there is some
diminishing
return. In your area, it is probably a better benefit for AC than for
heating. What is the cost difference doing it the two different ways?
$100? Then go for the most. $1000? then I'd go closer to the R30.

As the cost of energy goes up, the return for more insulation gets
better.
Your energy cost may be 20% to 50% higher in a couple of years so
factor
that into your decision.







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On Feb 19, 10:16*pm, (fwfrog)
wrote:
fwfrog had written this in response tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/maintenance/Re-Question-about-R-value...
*:
Although this post is nearly 2 years old, I find I'm in the same boat, in
the same part of town as the original author of this thread. *Can anyone
advise?

We have a house that's over 80 years old, most brick exterior, roughly
1000 sq. feet with an open attic. *We have a gas furnace in the attic as
well.

There's a very thin layer of cellulose in place - but it's so bare you can
see the 2x4's sticking up all along the attic floor.

We have two companies that have bid to blow insulation in our attic (as
they put it, the "white stuff" that looks like "snow").

Here are the bids:
R-30 (12 inches) for $200
R-38 (17 inches) for $460
-or-
R-49 (inches unknown) for $698

According to the Energy Star chart, we need R-30 at the minimum.

Would R-38 or R-49 be worth the extra cost? *Or is this overkill?

Do you have to live in the house for a long time afterwards to see a
return in your investment (based on monthly savings in your A/C or heating
bill)?

I should also mention that we had a brand new A/C unit (with, I believe, a
SEER rating of 14) installed not even 18 months ago.

Any tips would be appreciated! *Thanks!

-------------------------------------





Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
wrote in message
roups.com...
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the
'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49.
(about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill
and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would
appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would
care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.
Need or want? Generally, the more the better, but there is some
diminishing
return. *In your area, it is probably a better benefit for AC than for
heating. *What is the cost difference doing it the two different ways?
$100? *Then go for the most. *$1000? *then I'd go closer to the R30.
As the cost of energy goes up, the return for more insulation gets
better.
Your energy cost may be 20% to 50% higher in a couple of years so
factor
that into your decision.

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- Show quoted text -

White Stuff? what Crack, be specific. www.energystar.gov will help. R
30 is below Minimal. R 40 Is better. R 60 Is great but it will settle
15-20%. I did R 100 and it settled to R 80. Heat rises so insulate
better than the Minimal codes require.

On Feb 20, 3:13*am, ransley wrote:
On Feb 19, 10:16*pm, (fwfrog)
wrote:





fwfrog had written this in response tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/maintenance/Re-Question-about-R-value...
*:
Although this post is nearly 2 years old, I find I'm in the same boat, in
the same part of town as the original author of this thread. *Can anyone
advise?

We have a house that's over 80 years old, most brick exterior, roughly
1000 sq. feet with an open attic. *We have a gas furnace in the attic as
well.

There's a very thin layer of cellulose in place - but it's so bare you can
see the 2x4's sticking up all along the attic floor.

We have two companies that have bid to blow insulation in our attic (as
they put it, the "white stuff" that looks like "snow").

Here are the bids:
R-30 (12 inches) for $200
R-38 (17 inches) for $460
-or-
R-49 (inches unknown) for $698

According to the Energy Star chart, we need R-30 at the minimum.

Would R-38 or R-49 be worth the extra cost? *Or is this overkill?

Do you have to live in the house for a long time afterwards to see a
return in your investment (based on monthly savings in your A/C or heating
bill)?

I should also mention that we had a brand new A/C unit (with, I believe, a
SEER rating of 14) installed not even 18 months ago.

Any tips would be appreciated! *Thanks!

-------------------------------------

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
wrote in message
roups.com...
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online chart for the
'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it tells me 49.
(about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is really overkill
and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I would
appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this area, would
care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.
Need or want? Generally, the more the better, but there is some
diminishing
return. *In your area, it is probably a better benefit for AC than for
heating. *What is the cost difference doing it the two different ways?
$100? *Then go for the most. *$1000? *then I'd go closer to the R30.
As the cost of energy goes up, the return for more insulation gets
better.
Your energy cost may be 20% to 50% higher in a couple of years so
factor
that into your decision.

##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via *http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 341416 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

White Stuff? what Crack, be specific.www.energystar.govwill help. R
30 is below Minimal. R 40 Is better. R 60 Is great but it will settle
15-20%. * I did R 100 and it settled to R 80. Heat rises so insulate
better than the Minimal codes require.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


A lot depends on how long you intend to live there. Even if it's a
couple years, I would not go with R30 minimum. Not only will you
save some on energy, but when you go to sell, it looks better on
inspection. Another factor to consider, in addition to $$ of energy,
is that the higher insulation can help keep the upstairs feeling cool
during summer in TX, especially if you have marginal cooling upstairs
to begin with. For the small diff in price you're talking about, and
with energy prices likely to be higher in the future, I'd go with the
R49. But, I'd make sure to find out how many inches it will be first,
so you know if you got what you paid for.

fwfrog had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...on-360452-.htm
:
Thank you everyone for the quick replies. To address your questions...

The quotes for R-30 and R-38 were for blown-in fiberglass (the
"non-itchy", "doesn't catch on your clothes"-kind).

The quote for the R-49 was from a different company. Although I don't
know the number of inches, it was written on the estimate as "Climate Pro
Blown Insulation". Is this a brand name?

If you can't tell, I don't really know much about the material-type--as
most of my descriptions are vague. Sorry 'bout that!

What's a good amount of inches of R-49 to have blown-in?

It should also be noted that we live in a single story house (no upstairs
to worry about).

Finally, there's a chance we could sell the house sometime in the middle
of summer, due to a (potential) career change.

Then again, with today's economy, we might just stay put for a while.

The R-49 is $500 more than the lowest bid from the other contractor. His
R-30 bid is part of a government subsidy program here in Texas.
(normally, he'd charge about $450 for R-30, but the program knocks the
price down to $200)

I've read that R-type doesn't matter in Texas as much. Or that R-38/R-49
do more for cold weather areas than hot climates.

I'm trying to learn on the fly- but it seems there's so much contradicting
information out there!

Thanks again, everyone...

-------------------------------------
fwfrog had written this in response
tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/m=
aintenance/Re-Question-about-R-value...
=A0:
Although this post is nearly 2 years old, I find I'm in the
same boat, =
in
the same part of town as the original author of this thread.
=A0Can any=
one
advise?

We have a house that's over 80 years old, most brick
exterior, roughly
1000 sq. feet with an open attic. =A0We have a gas furnace in
the attic=
as
well.

There's a very thin layer of cellulose in place - but it's so
bare you =
can
see the 2x4's sticking up all along the attic floor.

We have two companies that have bid to blow insulation in our
attic (as
they put it, the "white stuff" that looks like
"snow").

Here are the bids:
R-30 (12 inches) for $200
R-38 (17 inches) for $460
-or-
R-49 (inches unknown) for $698

According to the Energy Star chart, we need R-30 at the
minimum.

Would R-38 or R-49 be worth the extra cost? =A0Or is this
overkill?

Do you have to live in the house for a long time afterwards
to see a
return in your investment (based on monthly savings in your
A/C or heat=
ing
bill)?

I should also mention that we had a brand new A/C unit (with,
I believe=
, a
SEER rating of 14) installed not even 18 months ago.

Any tips would be appreciated! =A0Thanks!

-------------------------------------

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
wrote in message

groups.com...
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online
chart for the
'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it
tells me 49.
(about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is
really overkill
and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I
would
appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this
area, would
care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.
Need or want? Generally, the more the better, but there
is some
diminishing
return. =A0In your area, it is probably a better benefit
for AC than =
for
heating. =A0What is the cost difference doing it the two
different wa=
ys?
$100? =A0Then go for the most. =A0$1000? =A0then I'd go
closer to the=
R30.
As the cost of energy goes up, the return for more
insulation gets
better.
Your energy cost may be 20% to 50% higher in a couple of
years so
factor
that into your decision.

##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via =A0http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 341416 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

White Stuff? what Crack, be specific.www.energystar.govwill help.
R
30 is below Minimal. R 40 Is better. R 60 Is great but it will
settle
15-20%. =A0 I did R 100 and it settled to R 80. Heat rises so
insulate
better than the Minimal codes require.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


A lot depends on how long you intend to live there. Even if it's a
couple years, I would not go with R30 minimum. Not only will you
save some on energy, but when you go to sell, it looks better on
inspection. Another factor to consider, in addition to $$ of energy,
is that the higher insulation can help keep the upstairs feeling cool
during summer in TX, especially if you have marginal cooling upstairs
to begin with. For the small diff in price you're talking about, and
with energy prices likely to be higher in the future, I'd go with the
R49. But, I'd make sure to find out how many inches it will be first,
so you know if you got what you paid for.





##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 341488 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

On Feb 20, 12:18*pm, (fwfrog)
wrote:
fwfrog had written this in response tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/maintenance/Re-Question-about-R-value...
*:
Thank you everyone for the quick replies. *To address your questions...

The quotes for R-30 and R-38 were for blown-in fiberglass (the
"non-itchy", "doesn't catch on your clothes"-kind).

The quote for the R-49 was from a different company. *Although I don't
know the number of inches, it was written on the estimate as "Climate Pro
Blown Insulation". *Is this a brand name?

Don;t know, but if it is, you can probably find it by googling a bit.



If you can't tell, I don't really know much about the material-type--as
most of my descriptions are vague. *Sorry 'bout that!

What's a good amount of inches of R-49 to have blown-in?


It's not that you get X inches of R49 blown in. It's the number of
inches that determine the R value. Using the same material, you
could get any R value. Which is why I suggested you nail down what
they are using and how many inches you're getting.





It should also be noted that we live in a single story house (no upstairs
to worry about).

Finally, there's a chance we could sell the house sometime in the middle
of summer, due to a (potential) career change.

Then again, with today's economy, we might just stay put for a while.

One things for sure, you're not going to recover the $500 diff in cost
in 6 months, or even a couple years. I would think there might be
some calculators online to help guestimate. Try googling for
"insulation savings calculator"




The R-49 is $500 more than the lowest bid from the other contractor. *His
R-30 bid is part of a government subsidy program here in Texas.
(normally, he'd charge about $450 for R-30, but the program knocks the
price down to $200)

I'd check for state websites for info on how this program works.
Usually, they are trying to encourage people to put in more than the
minimum. It would be stupid for the govt to have a program where
they just give a credit towards the minimum and you get nothing if you
do better. But then from what I've seen lately, nothing would
surprise me.





I've read that R-type doesn't matter in Texas as much. *Or that R-38/R-49
do more for cold weather areas than hot climates.

There is some truth to the cold weather part. Heat loss is
proportional to the temp difference. So, if you're keeping it at 70
inside, if it get's to 100 outside, that's a delta of 30. I it gets
down to 20, that's a delta of 50. So, there are more areas of the US
where the heat loss in winter is going to be the greater concern.



I'm trying to learn on the fly- but it seems there's so much contradicting
information out there!








Thanks again, everyone...

-------------------------------------





fwfrog had written this in response
tohttp://www.thestuccocompany.com/m=
aintenance/Re-Question-about-R-value...
=A0:
Although this post is nearly 2 years old, I find I'm in the
same boat, =
in
the same part of town as the original author of this thread.
=A0Can any=
one
advise?

We have a house that's over 80 years old, most brick
exterior, roughly
1000 sq. feet with an open attic. =A0We have a gas furnace in
the attic=
*as
well.

There's a very thin layer of cellulose in place - but it's so
bare you =
can
see the 2x4's sticking up all along the attic floor.

We have two companies that have bid to blow insulation in our
attic (as
they put it, the "white stuff" that looks like
"snow").

Here are the bids:
R-30 (12 inches) for $200
R-38 (17 inches) for $460
-or-
R-49 (inches unknown) for $698

According to the Energy Star chart, we need R-30 at the
minimum.

Would R-38 or R-49 be worth the extra cost? =A0Or is this
overkill?

Do you have to live in the house for a long time afterwards
to see a
return in your investment (based on monthly savings in your
A/C or heat=
ing
bill)?

I should also mention that we had a brand new A/C unit (with,
I believe=
, a
SEER rating of 14) installed not even 18 months ago.

Any tips would be appreciated! =A0Thanks!

-------------------------------------

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
wrote in message

groups.com...
I'm in Fort Worth, TX and when I look at an online
chart for the
'R'
value of insulation I would need for my attic, it
tells me 49.
(about
14" of cellulose. I think)

At the local DIY store they tell me that this is
really overkill
and
that about 30 will do about all I need.

Since we will be doing the 'blowing in' ourselves, I
would
appreciate
it if someone who has done this themselves, in this
area, would
care
to give their opinion of what 'R' value I will need.
Need or want? Generally, the more the better, but there
is some
diminishing
return. =A0In your area, it is probably a better benefit
for AC than =
for
heating. =A0What is the cost difference doing it the two
different wa=
ys?
$100? =A0Then go for the most. =A0$1000? =A0then I'd go
closer to the=
*R30.
As the cost of energy goes up, the return for more
insulation gets
better.
Your energy cost may be 20% to 50% higher in a couple of
years so
factor
that into your decision.

##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via =A0http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 341416 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

White Stuff? what Crack, be specific.www.energystar.govwillhelp.
R
30 is below Minimal. R 40 Is better. R 60 Is great but it will
settle
15-20%. =A0 I did R 100 and it settled to R 80. Heat rises so
insulate
better than the Minimal codes require.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
A lot depends on how long you intend to live there. * Even if it's a
couple years, I would not go with R30 minimum. * Not only will you
save some on energy, but when you go to sell, it looks better on
inspection. * Another factor to consider, in addition to $$ of energy,
is that the higher insulation can help keep the upstairs feeling cool
during summer in TX, especially if you have marginal cooling upstairs
to begin with. *For the small diff in price you're talking about, and
with energy prices likely to be higher in the future, I'd go with the
R49. *But, I'd make sure to find out how many inches it will be first,
so you know if you got what you paid for.

##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via *http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 341488 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Shaun Eli" wrote in message

So I bought rolls of R-30, a few at a time (have a small car). Every
trip that went past Home Depot-- stopped in and bought a few rolls
(around $16 for a 25 foot roll).

With all that insulation it took a long time for the house to cool
down. Without all that insulation I'm sure it would have been a lot
less comfortable.

I'm sure I got more than my money's worth in one winter, and the
savings will continue every summer and every winter...

When energy was cheap, the cost of insulation was a fairly long payback by
today's standards. R value requirements were based on some formula that
made sense 20 or 30 years ago. Today, when heating oil can hit $4.50 a
gallon, more is better. Much better. You did good.

If your blowing in the insulation yourself, calculate how much your
going to save vs having it done by someone else. Reinvest that savings
in insulation.
R-100 like the other post might be overkill if you only have a 2x4
construction would be like having a insulated covered porch!
this said, i'd go for the R-49, with the settling of that blown
insulation you might end up with R-30!!

Nobody has mention this yet but,
Don't forget to seal the holes around all vents, lights, chimney,
electrical line holes, skylight ... with canned spray foam.
OH and that 'manhole' your going to use, is it just a sheet of 3/4inch
plywood? add 2"+ rigid insulation on one side. [Can't help you if you
have one of those folding ladders]

Your joists should be covered. a 2x4 has a very low r value (R-1 i
believe) so if they are not covered, you will get heat loss just in
the wood... search Google for images and you will find things like
this:
You can easily see the framing and heat/ac loss.

http://www.floridamold.net/images/ir...om_windows.jpg
http://www.thermal-imaging-survey.co...on%20Small.jpg
http://www.imaging1.com/gallery/imag...age%208273.jpg

and make sure you are not filling in the soffit vents, blocking the
air circulation in your attic.
http://www.statefarm.com/learning/lo...on_icedams.asp

have fun