My kitchen has 5 recessed 30-W flood lights controlled by a single
switch (i.e. all in series). The bulb closest to the switch keep on
going out, but the others have not been replaced so far. I am
thinking that there may a loose connection in the culprit light, or is
it just pure happenstance? Thanks.

wrote:
My kitchen has 5 recessed 30-W flood lights controlled by a single
switch (i.e. all in series). The bulb closest to the switch keep on
going out, but the others have not been replaced so far. I am
thinking that there may a loose connection in the culprit light, or is
it just pure happenstance? Thanks.

It could be several things. I wonder if you are replacing them with
exactly the same kind of lamp? I also wonder if maybe the ventilation of
that fixture may not be as good as the others, causing overheating. Another
possibility is a poor connection at the socket, maybe some corrosion or even
some vibration near it like a vent fan.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

wrote in message
ups.com...
My kitchen has 5 recessed 30-W flood lights controlled by a single
switch (i.e. all in series). The bulb closest to the switch keep on
going out, but the others have not been replaced so far. I am
thinking that there may a loose connection in the culprit light, or is
it just pure happenstance? Thanks.



Heat caused by a loose connection or bad socket is a common culprit. Also
vibration can be a factor. What kind of bulbs are you using?

On Mar 8, 5:46 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Heat caused by a loose connection or bad socket is a common culprit. Also
vibration can be a factor. What kind of bulbs are you using?
-----------------
Thanks to both of you for the info. I am using a 30 W SYLVANIA
Reflector. The only "vibration" under it is the frig. But that does
not sound excessive, plus 30 W can't generate that much heat.

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 8, 5:46 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Heat caused by a loose connection or bad socket is a common culprit.
Also
vibration can be a factor. What kind of bulbs are you using?
-----------------
Thanks to both of you for the info. I am using a 30 W SYLVANIA
Reflector. The only "vibration" under it is the frig. But that does
not sound excessive, plus 30 W can't generate that much heat.


I would start by changing the socket.

John Grabowski wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 8, 5:46 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Heat caused by a loose connection or bad socket is a common
culprit. Also vibration can be a factor. What kind of bulbs are
you using?
-----------------
Thanks to both of you for the info. I am using a 30 W SYLVANIA
Reflector. The only "vibration" under it is the frig. But that does
not sound excessive, plus 30 W can't generate that much heat.


I would start by changing the socket.

I agree. I would add that 30W can cause a lot of heat under the wrong
conditions.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Joseph Meehan wrote:

... 30W can cause a lot of heat under the wrong conditions.

Exactly 30x3.412 = 102.36 Btu/h of heat, under any conditions.

Nick

On 7 Mar 2007 19:57:47 -0800, wrote:

My kitchen has 5 recessed 30-W flood lights controlled by a single
switch (i.e. all in series). The bulb closest to the switch keep on
going out, but the others have not been replaced so far. I am
thinking that there may a loose connection in the culprit light, or is
it just pure happenstance? Thanks.


Is this can over a sink? Humidity is a guess.

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

On Mar 8, 5:30 pm, Just Joshin wrote:


Is this can over a sink? Humidity is a guess.

------------------------
The culprit light sits on top of the frig. The other (exactly equal)
lights are closer to microwaveoven, kitchen range, and sink with no
problem. The units are rated for 60 W and I use only 30 W. The
minimum required 5" space (no insulation) around each can is
observed. I looked at the wiring inside the junction box (which is
part of the housing) and made sure all three connections were "good
and solid." I noticed that there is a capacitor (I believe) that is
part of the circiut, but had no way to check it. Could it be
defective? What does the capacitor do anyway? Thanks.

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Mar 8, 5:30 pm, Just Joshin wrote:


Is this can over a sink? Humidity is a guess.

------------------------
The culprit light sits on top of the frig. The other (exactly equal)
lights are closer to microwaveoven, kitchen range, and sink with no
problem. The units are rated for 60 W and I use only 30 W. The
minimum required 5" space (no insulation) around each can is
observed. I looked at the wiring inside the junction box (which is
part of the housing) and made sure all three connections were "good
and solid." I noticed that there is a capacitor (I believe) that is
part of the circiut, but had no way to check it. Could it be
defective? What does the capacitor do anyway? Thanks.


It is not a capacitor. It is a thermal cut-out to prevent the light from
overheating.