Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

GB wrote:
Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have
gotten conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because
it is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can
cause the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof
structure has irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install
drip edge.
Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

Both ways work when done properly. I would suggest that if a specific
contractor has had good experience with one and poor experience with the
other, only a fool would tell them to use the method they have had problems
with in the past.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

On Mar 1, 2:05 am, GB wrote:
Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

NRCA ( National Roofing Contractors Association ) Manual say
perimeter flashing / drip edge "should be considered" depending on
climate, amount of snow and rain. It Then says NRCA " recommends " its
use to allow water to drip off roof without affecting underlying
construction.
T

On Mar 1, 7:27?am, wrote:
On Mar 1, 2:05 am, GB wrote:





Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

NRCA ( National Roofing Contractors Association ) Manual say
perimeter flashing / drip edge "should be considered" depending on
climate, amount of snow and rain. It Then says NRCA " recommends " its
use to allow water to drip off roof without affecting underlying
construction.
T- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

JERK ROOFER failed to install drip edge here, pittsburgh snow and ice.:
(

Well extended bad weather had water and ice get between gutter and
home, 2 foot wide 1 foot deep ice flow down side of 2 story home, ice
flowed in window area. I was out chipping and melting ice flow daily.

had another roofer by oh no drip edge

That summer he added drip edge and no futher troubles! over 10 yeears
ago,

I wouldnt consider a roofer who didnt want to install a drip edge,
wonder what other corners he is cutting.

drip edge is cheap too.

"GB" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip
edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB
Why depend on "No drip edge if shingles are installed properly"? What if
they're not?
MLD

On Mar 1, 7:16 am, " wrote:
On Mar 1, 7:27?am, wrote:



On Mar 1, 2:05 am, GB wrote:

Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

NRCA ( National Roofing Contractors Association ) Manual say
perimeter flashing / drip edge "should be considered" depending on
climate, amount of snow and rain. It Then says NRCA " recommends " its
use to allow water to drip off roof without affecting underlying
construction.
T- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

JERK ROOFER failed to install drip edge here, pittsburgh snow and ice.:
(

Well extended bad weather had water and ice get between gutter and
home, 2 foot wide 1 foot deep ice flow down side of 2 story home, ice
flowed in window area. I was out chipping and melting ice flow daily.

had another roofer by oh no drip edge

That summer he added drip edge and no futher troubles! over 10 yeears
ago,

I wouldnt consider a roofer who didnt want to install a drip edge,
wonder what other corners he is cutting.

drip edge is cheap too.

Drip edge into a gutter? Here in WI we would always use gutter apron
or site built flashing into gutters, and drip edge on all the rakes.
Both are very easy to install, and very cheap. I can't imagine doing
a roof without them.

JK

On Mar 1, 6:40 am, "Big_Jake" wrote:
On Mar 1, 7:16 am, " wrote:





On Mar 1, 7:27?am, wrote:

On Mar 1, 2:05 am, GB wrote:

Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GB

NRCA ( National Roofing Contractors Association ) Manual say
perimeter flashing / drip edge "should be considered" depending on
climate, amount of snow and rain. It Then says NRCA " recommends " its
use to allow water to drip off roof without affecting underlying
construction.
T- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

JERK ROOFER failed to install drip edge here, pittsburgh snow and ice.:
(

Well extended bad weather had water and ice get between gutter and
home, 2 foot wide 1 foot deep ice flow down side of 2 story home, ice
flowed in window area. I was out chipping and melting ice flow daily.

had another roofer by oh no drip edge

That summer he added drip edge and no futher troubles! over 10 yeears
ago,

I wouldnt consider a roofer who didnt want to install a drip edge,
wonder what other corners he is cutting.

drip edge is cheap too.

Drip edge into a gutter? Here in WI we would always use gutter apron
or site built flashing into gutters, and drip edge on all the rakes.
Both are very easy to install, and very cheap. I can't imagine doing
a roof without them.

JK- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Same here. Worst case for installing them is 'they do not add
anything'. They for sure aren't going to 'hurt' anything and the cost
of material and time installing is miniscule. I would move on rapidly
past any roofer claiming they would cause the shingles to lay badly.

Harry K

"GB" wrote
Hi,

I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have gotten
conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.

The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because it
is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can cause
the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure has
irregularities.

The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install drip
edge.

Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer ratings
service (Washington Checkbook).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Drip edge "is" neccessary, depending on a lot of circumstances. For
instance, if your structure has a aluminum or such covering, the drip
covers the top edge of it. If drip edge isn't installed, you will get
blown, or dripping infiltration which will eventually cause substantial
damage.

There are different types of drip edge. Do _not_ let anyone install a "c"
channel drip edge, under any circumstances. I could write pages on why not
to have this type of drip edge. Even in my area, city localities will not
let this type of drip edge installed.

As far as the first roofer telling you his version. I say BS, and this is
coming from someone that had close to 30 years in the business.

Drip edge isn't really isn't "cheap", as some others have said. It's priced
about 28 cents a lineal foot, at suppliers in my area. If you have a hip
style home, it adds up fast. But, having an after-thought about getting it
installed after a new roof is installed, is too late.

As a side note: Shingles are supposed to over hang the drip edge, never
even with it.

"Moe" wrote in message
...
|
| "GB" wrote
| Hi,
|
| I am getting reroofing bids for my 25 year old house, and I have
gotten
| conflicting advice regarding installation of drip edge.
|
| The first roofer told me he does not recommend installing it because
it
| is not necessary when the shingles are installed properly, and can
cause
| the shingles not to lay straight if the underlying roof structure
has
| irregularities.
|
| The second roofer said that was nonsense, and they always install
drip
| edge.
|
| Both of these roofers have highest ratings in a local consumer
ratings
| service (Washington Checkbook).
|
| Any advice would be appreciated.
|
| Thanks.
|
| Drip edge "is" neccessary, depending on a lot of circumstances. For
| instance, if your structure has a aluminum or such covering, the drip
| covers the top edge of it.

why not just bend the aluminum so it is tucked under the shingles?



If drip edge isn't installed, you will get
| blown, or dripping infiltration which will eventually cause
substantial
| damage.

that's BS
my wood shingled roof has no drip edge
haven't seen any substantial damage yet (20 yrs.later).
it's the gutters that seem to always cause the damage from what I have
replaced for customers.





|
| There are different types of drip edge. Do _not_ let anyone install a
"c"
| channel drip edge, under any circumstances. I could write pages on why
not
| to have this type of drip edge. Even in my area, city localities will
not
| let this type of drip edge installed.


sometimes for the right application "C" channel is needed, it all
depends on the trim.
for instance, on a bitumen roof application it hides the nailing strip
around the perimeter.



|
| As far as the first roofer telling you his version. I say BS, and this
is
| coming from someone that had close to 30 years in the business.
|
| Drip edge isn't really isn't "cheap", as some others have said. It's
priced
| about 28 cents a lineal foot, at suppliers in my area. If you have a
hip
| style home, it adds up fast. But, having an after-thought about
getting it
| installed after a new roof is installed, is too late.
|
| As a side note: Shingles are supposed to over hang the drip edge,
never
| even with it.
|
|


I am a firm believer in drip edge for the bottom so it overlaps the
fascia board
but not on the rake boards unless it is a re-roof (it hides the edges of
the original roof nicely).

have rentals, use the drip edge. it helps the edge of the roof
wood covered to keep it from rotting.been there.lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

"3G" wrote
why not just bend the aluminum so it is tucked under the shingles?

You can, if you have a brake. It's called a drip edge.

If drip edge isn't installed, you will get
| blown, or dripping infiltration which will eventually cause
substantial
| damage.

that's BS
my wood shingled roof has no drip edge
haven't seen any substantial damage yet (20 yrs.later).
it's the gutters that seem to always cause the damage from what I have
replaced for customers.

If you're going to reply to something, don't take it out of context. It's
not BS to what I said. WTF, you have a reading comprehension problem also?

I said: "Drip edge "is" neccessary, depending on a lot of circumstances.
For
instance, if your structure has a aluminum or such covering, the drip
covers the top edge of it. If drip edge isn't installed, you will get
blown, or dripping infiltration which will eventually cause substantial
damage."








|
| There are different types of drip edge. Do _not_ let anyone install a
"c"
| channel drip edge, under any circumstances. I could write pages on why
not
| to have this type of drip edge. Even in my area, city localities will
not
| let this type of drip edge installed.


sometimes for the right application "C" channel is needed, it all
depends on the trim.
for instance, on a bitumen roof application it hides the nailing strip
around the perimeter.

Ut oh, I think I smell a butcher.

I am a firm believer in drip edge for the bottom so it overlaps the
fascia board
but not on the rake boards unless it is a re-roof (it hides the edges of
the original roof nicely).

It is, it's a butcher. Someone to lazy to trim edges. I've seen hundreds of
your kind in my days. The faces change, the name remains the same, butcher.

"Moe" wrote in message
...
|
| "3G" wrote
| why not just bend the aluminum so it is tucked under the shingles?
|
| You can, if you have a brake. It's called a drip edge.

I meant bend the aluminum rake trim to fit under the shingles.
it is called "rake trim"


|
| If drip edge isn't installed, you will get
| | blown, or dripping infiltration which will eventually cause
| substantial
| | damage.
|
| that's BS
| my wood shingled roof has no drip edge
| haven't seen any substantial damage yet (20 yrs.later).
| it's the gutters that seem to always cause the damage from what I
have
| replaced for customers.
|
| If you're going to reply to something, don't take it out of context.
It's
| not BS to what I said. WTF, you have a reading comprehension problem
also?
|
| I said: "Drip edge "is" neccessary, depending on a lot of
circumstances.
| For
| instance, if your structure has a aluminum or such covering, the drip
| covers the top edge of it. If drip edge isn't installed, you will get
| blown, or dripping infiltration which will eventually cause
substantial
| damage."
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| | There are different types of drip edge. Do _not_ let anyone
install a
| "c"
| | channel drip edge, under any circumstances. I could write pages on
why
| not
| | to have this type of drip edge. Even in my area, city localities
will
| not
| | let this type of drip edge installed.
|
|
| sometimes for the right application "C" channel is needed, it all
| depends on the trim.
| for instance, on a bitumen roof application it hides the nailing
strip
| around the perimeter.
|
| Ut oh, I think I smell a butcher.
|
| I am a firm believer in drip edge for the bottom so it overlaps the
| fascia board
| but not on the rake boards unless it is a re-roof (it hides the
edges of
| the original roof nicely).
|
| It is, it's a butcher. Someone to lazy to trim edges. I've seen
hundreds of
| your kind in my days. The faces change, the name remains the same,
butcher.
|
|

On Mar 3, 3:03 am, "3G" wrote:
"Moe" wrote in message

...
|
| "3G" wrote
| why not just bend the aluminum so it is tucked under the shingles?
|
| You can, if you have a brake. It's called a drip edge.

I meant bend the aluminum rake trim to fit under the shingles.
it is called "rake trim"


Now just why would you go to all that trouble when standard drip edge
does the same thing? Clue, drip edge is used on the rake also. The
drip edge and installation would be cheaper than the time spend
dicking around bending your 'rake trim'. I have to agree with MOe =
yo don't know WTF you are talking about.

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
oups.com...
| On Mar 3, 3:03 am, "3G" wrote:
| "Moe" wrote in message
|
| ...
| |
| | "3G" wrote
| | why not just bend the aluminum so it is tucked under the
shingles?
| |
| | You can, if you have a brake. It's called a drip edge.
|
| I meant bend the aluminum rake trim to fit under the shingles.
| it is called "rake trim"
|
|
| Now just why would you go to all that trouble when standard drip edge
| does the same thing?


wind gets under drip edge
it can not get behind a bent rake trim.
that IS the difference
a high wind can rip off the drip edge on a rake causing substanial
damage.
you obviosly have little or no experience in repairs.
wind is more of a problem than rain
rain falls down
wind................well.................goes every direction.

so if your drip edge is over lapping the rake trim and wind gets in
there it will rip off the drip edge, aluminum rake trim and some roof
shingles.

my way
you may get a shingle or 2 ripped off from the wind.
repair is much faster and less expensive for the home owner.

I understand that those of you who install drip edge on rakes are
looking for job security.................for me...................I'm
already secure.


Clue, drip edge is used on the rake also. The
| drip edge and installation would be cheaper than the time spend
| dicking around bending your 'rake trim'.


it is the repairs that get costly for the homeowner.




I have to agree with MOE =
| yo don't know WTF you are talking about.
|
| Larry Fine


no wonder why you agree Larry..........where's Curley.
that's the way stooges always do it.
|
|

On Mar 4, 5:28 am, "3G" wrote:
"Harry K" wrote in message

oups.com...
| On Mar 3, 3:03 am, "3G" wrote:
| "Moe" wrote in message
|
| ...
| |
| | "3G" wrote
| | why not just bend the aluminum so it is tucked under the
shingles?
| |
| | You can, if you have a brake. It's called a drip edge.
|
| I meant bend the aluminum rake trim to fit under the shingles.
| it is called "rake trim"
|
|
| Now just why would you go to all that trouble when standard drip edge
| does the same thing?

wind gets under drip edge
it can not get behind a bent rake trim.
that IS the difference
a high wind can rip off the drip edge on a rake causing substanial
damage.
you obviosly have little or no experience in repairs.
wind is more of a problem than rain
rain falls down
wind................well.................goes every direction.

so if your drip edge is over lapping the rake trim and wind gets in
there it will rip off the drip edge, aluminum rake trim and some roof
shingles.

my way
you may get a shingle or 2 ripped off from the wind.
repair is much faster and less expensive for the home owner.

I understand that those of you who install drip edge on rakes are
looking for job security.................for me...................I'm
already secure.

Clue, drip edge is used on the rake also. The
| drip edge and installation would be cheaper than the time spend
| dicking around bending your 'rake trim'.

it is the repairs that get costly for the homeowner.

I have to agree with MOE =
| yo don't know WTF you are talking about.
|
| Larry Fine

no wonder why you agree Larry..........where's Curley.
that's the way stooges always do it.
|
|

Strange. I just did a google on 'roofing rake edge'. Guess what.
Not one entry on the first page (I didn't go beyond that) mentioned a
thing called a 'rake edge' to be applied to the 'rake edge'. Every
place that 'rake edge' was mentioned it referred to that part of a
roof and specifically said to apply "drip edge'.

I have roofed in Texas in the heat (repairs), Wa. Built my own house,
reroofed my house and my mothers house, helped my brother reroof his
house and put a roof on his new machine shed...
Drip edge applied to the rake as follows - tarpaper, drip edge,
shingle. Just as the shingle bundle always says. i;.e., 'apply DRIP
EDGE to the rake' (I don't have a bundle laying around or I would
quote the exact phrase).

What are your qualifications?

Perhaps you can tell all of use experience types who don't know what
we have been doing just what the hell that magical 'rake edge' is your
are talking about.

Drip edge is a 'bent piece' of trim, It is bent at 90 with a very
short back bend on the long leg. It comes with both short and long
sides so you have a choice. In all the roof damage I have both worked
on and seen, never once did I see where the 'drip edge' was damaged by
the wind unless the entire roof was destroyed.

Work on your reading comprehension. My name is not "Larry".

Harry K

I forgot to ask you to give a description of just what that mysterious
'rake edge' is that you are talking about.

Harry K