I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

---Matt

wrote:
I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

---Matt

I wonder what he would think of spray in foam?

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
| wrote:
| I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely
replacing
| an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is
requiring
| that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just
the
| wall I'm building.
|
| One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest
on
| it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
| frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
| varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
| fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
| moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
| easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps
can't
| be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
| has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another
has
| a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a
2X10
| to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?
|
| Any help would be appreciated!
|
| Thanks,
|
| ---Matt
|
| I wonder what he would think of spray in foam?


spray foam (great stuff) is flammable and unacceptable.
unless it is icynene

a non flammable fiberglass insulation is what you want,
and flame resistant caulking for around wires and pipes running through
the top and bottom plates.


|
| --
| Joseph Meehan
|
| Dia 's Muire duit
|
|
|

On Fri, 2 Mar 2007 06:21:33 -0500, "3G" wrote:


"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
.. .
| wrote:
| I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely
replacing
| an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is
requiring
| that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just
the
| wall I'm building.
|
| One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest
on
| it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
| frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
| varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
| fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
| moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
| easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps
can't
| be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
| has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another
has
| a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a
2X10
| to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?
|
| Any help would be appreciated!
|
| Thanks,
|
| ---Matt
|
| I wonder what he would think of spray in foam?


spray foam (great stuff) is flammable and unacceptable.
unless it is icynene

a non flammable fiberglass insulation is what you want,
and flame resistant caulking for around wires and pipes running through
the top and bottom plates.


|
| --
| Joseph Meehan
|
| Dia 's Muire duit
|
|
|



I saw Lowes now sells spray in foam that has a 'fire blocking' rating.

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

wrote in message
oups.com...
Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Bedroom? Would the same code be needed if it was an office or den?
Probably too late for that now.

I see spray in foam was suggested and I was thinking that also. I'd contact
the inspector and ask him what he'd approve. Fiberglass or similar material
may satisfy him also. It does not matter what we think will work, only what
he approves.

I would have thought drywall would be the easiest and cheapest to
cut, fit, and install. Close penetrations, cuts, perimeter gaps
with either fire tape or fire caulk.

Unless you have quite a good fit on your wood blocking you may
need to fire caulk any gaps.

There is a fire rated expanding foam. As with all fire rated
items, they are pricey. Make sure to clear the product with your
AHJ prior to using, they can be quite picky, clarify whether you
working on a fire wall or a smoke partition and what materials
would be best in his opinion.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely
replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is
requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not
just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists
rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the
wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to
put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire
from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps
was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps
can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them,
one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and
another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a
2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

---Matt

"DanG" wrote in message
...
|I would have thought drywall would be the easiest and cheapest to
| cut, fit, and install. Close penetrations, cuts, perimeter gaps
| with either fire tape or fire caulk.



drywall is NOT fire resistant unless you use 5/8" with a skimcoat of
plaster on both sides. it is typically more time consuming.
fire rated fiberglass insulation is the best way to go.



|
| Unless you have quite a good fit on your wood blocking you may
| need to fire caulk any gaps.
|
| There is a fire rated expanding foam. As with all fire rated
| items, they are pricey. Make sure to clear the product with your
| AHJ prior to using, they can be quite picky, clarify whether you
| working on a fire wall or a smoke partition and what materials
| would be best in his opinion.
|
| --
| ______________________________
| Keep the whole world singing . . . .
| DanG (remove the sevens)
|
|
|
|
| wrote in message
| oups.com...
| I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely
| replacing
| an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is
| requiring
| that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not
| just the
| wall I'm building.
|
| One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists
| rest on
| it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the
| wall
| frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
| varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to
| put
| fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire
| from
| moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps
| was
| easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps
| can't
| be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them,
| one
| has the 220V line from the street running through it, and
| another has
| a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a
| 2X10
| to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?
|
| Any help would be appreciated!
|
| Thanks,
|
| ---Matt
|
|
|

3G wrote:
"DanG" wrote in message

|I would have thought drywall would be the easiest and cheapest to
| cut, fit, and install. Close penetrations, cuts, perimeter gaps
| with either fire tape or fire caulk.


drywall is NOT fire resistant unless you use 5/8" with a skimcoat of
plaster on both sides. it is typically more time consuming.
fire rated fiberglass insulation is the best way to go.

Drywall, regardless of the thickness, certainly is fire resistant.
Gypsum has a lot of moisture in it (ever wonder why it was so
heavy?). When the elevated temperature of a fire hits the drywall it
releases some of that moisture which keeps it from burning/decomposing
- at least for a while.

Fire-rated assemblies are usually built with 5/8" Firecode, but your
standard 1/2" drywall on wood frame is good for about half an hour of
rating.

Here's one you might appreciate: about 20 years ago, when I was
working as a construction manager in NYC - NYC is notorious for
whimsical and strict code - a subcontractor produced a testing agency
report that showed that standard 5/8" drywall lived up to the ratings
as well as the 5/8" Firecode drywall. Hmmm, how odd. I can't imagine
why a company would sell what is essentially an unnecessary "upgrade"
for an markedly higher price.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
ps.com...
| 3G wrote:
| "DanG" wrote in message
|
| |I would have thought drywall would be the easiest and cheapest to
| | cut, fit, and install. Close penetrations, cuts, perimeter gaps
| | with either fire tape or fire caulk.
|
|
| drywall is NOT fire resistant unless you use 5/8" with a skimcoat of
| plaster on both sides. it is typically more time consuming.
| fire rated fiberglass insulation is the best way to go.
|
| Drywall, regardless of the thickness, certainly is fire resistant.


the paper on 1/2" is different than 5/8 " and unskimmed drywall does not
meet fire codes.


| Gypsum has a lot of moisture in it (ever wonder why it was so
| heavy?). When the elevated temperature of a fire hits the drywall it
| releases some of that moisture which keeps it from burning/decomposing
| - at least for a while.
|
| Fire-rated assemblies are usually built with 5/8" Firecode, but your
| standard 1/2" drywall on wood frame is good for about half an hour of
| rating.
|
| Here's one you might appreciate: about 20 years ago, when I was
| working as a construction manager in NYC - NYC is notorious for
| whimsical and strict code - a subcontractor produced a testing agency
| report that showed that standard 5/8" drywall lived up to the ratings
| as well as the 5/8" Firecode drywall. Hmmm, how odd. I can't imagine
| why a company would sell what is essentially an unnecessary "upgrade"
| for an markedly higher price.
|
| R

the paper on 1/2" is different than 5/8 "
|

BS, Mr. 3G

I let yesterday's comment go, but now it gets ridiculous. If you
have good information, please share it; but if your information is
inaccurate, back off.

Remember, this is supposed to be a helpful source of information
for construction/home issues. The OP simply asked for something
easier than cutting wood blocks. I originally suggested drywall
and/or fire rated expanding foam. I did not attack yours or
anyone else's suggestions until you start making things up. At
issue here is whether this is a fire rated wall or a smoke
partition. It can almost not be a fire wall, so I assume it to be
a smoke partition. Anything we come up with here has little to
do with what OP's AHJ will accept. If the AHJ will buy blocks of
Thermafiber, great! The inspector would seem to be asking for
fireblocking just like putting cross blocks in stud chambers, I
think he will require holding them in place, I sure would.
Reference:
http://www.thermafiber.com/pdfs/Safe%20off%20area%20greater%20than%208%20inches%20 TB.pdf
If you have UL documentation to the contrary, I would like the
information for my own uses.

I am not aware of any fire rated fiberglass batts or purposeful
use in a fire rated assembly so do not understand your statement:
| drywall is NOT fire resistant unless you use 5/8" with a
skimcoat of
| plaster on both sides. it is typically more time consuming.
| fire rated fiberglass insulation is the best way to go.

Firecode gyp has fiberglass hairs in the slurry, there is no
difference in the paper. Firecode wallboard is manufactured with
a type X or type C core to achieve fire resistance ratings when
used in recommended systems. It is available in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4",
and 1" Shaftwall liner. There is a requirement for fire taping
the joints and spotting the nail heads, but there is no
requirement for any type of plaster, coating, or finish of any
type. It could be argued for some UL ratings it must be installed
vertically. Remember all UL testing costs tremendous money for
the manufacturer, on the order of $10,000 or more per test. What
gets written into the UL rated assembly book is and only is what
was tested in that exact configuration.

My background is not in residential or wood. On a commercial job
you would not end up with a rated assembly by stuffing rock
wool/firesafing/Thermafiber into those large joist chambers and
calling it good, there is no way to pass a hose test. What would
keep this stuff in position if the increased pressure of a hot
fire were on one side? To pass inspection you would most likely
use gyp, fire caulk, and proper sized annular spaces. I don't
think this situation would require intumescent sealants around
plastic penetrations for smoke purposes, but certainly would for
fire rated purposes. If you were to use fire safing rock wool,
you would be required to hold it position with gyp or Fire Dam
spray, or approved equal. Here is an example:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs666OjfCOrrrr Q-
This material costs over $200/5 gal so would not seem to be
appropriate for this project. I always clarify issues with AHJ
before performing the work.

If you have information or experience with an architect, fire
marshal, or AHJ on these issues, please share.

______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"3G" wrote in message
...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
ps.com...
| 3G wrote:
| "DanG" wrote in message
|
| |I would have thought drywall would be the easiest and
cheapest to
| | cut, fit, and install. Close penetrations, cuts,
perimeter gaps
| | with either fire tape or fire caulk.
|
|
| drywall is NOT fire resistant unless you use 5/8" with a
skimcoat of
| plaster on both sides. it is typically more time consuming.
| fire rated fiberglass insulation is the best way to go.
|
| Drywall, regardless of the thickness, certainly is fire
resistant.


the paper on 1/2" is different than 5/8 " and unskimmed drywall
does not
meet fire codes.


| Gypsum has a lot of moisture in it (ever wonder why it was so
| heavy?). When the elevated temperature of a fire hits the
drywall it
| releases some of that moisture which keeps it from
burning/decomposing
| - at least for a while.
|
| Fire-rated assemblies are usually built with 5/8" Firecode,
but your
| standard 1/2" drywall on wood frame is good for about half an
hour of
| rating.
|
| Here's one you might appreciate: about 20 years ago, when I
was
| working as a construction manager in NYC - NYC is notorious
for
| whimsical and strict code - a subcontractor produced a testing
agency
| report that showed that standard 5/8" drywall lived up to the
ratings
| as well as the 5/8" Firecode drywall. Hmmm, how odd. I can't
imagine
| why a company would sell what is essentially an unnecessary
"upgrade"
| for an markedly higher price.
|
| R

the paper on 1/2" is different than 5/8 "
|

On Feb 24, 12:51 pm, wrote:
I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

---Matt

How about cutting 13" pieces of blocking from the 2" x 10", scribing
the outline of the duct ( or cable hole) on the face, slicing the
blocking through the center of the scribed outline and cutting out the
opening on each piece and then installing one piece on top and one on
bottom to seal the opening. If nailing in place is a problem,
construction adhesive would work. This might pass inspection better
than cobbling up a wad of brick and mortar for example. HTH

Joe

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?


5/8" drywall should suffice. You can put in pieces and tape and spackle the
joints. I have seen contractors use some fireproofing caulk around the
joints, but I can't remember the name. I have also seen them use the sound
proof type insulation and another type of caulk on top of it to fill bigger
gaps. Sorry I can't remember the names of this stuff, but a building supply
company may have what you need. I've never seen a spray foam product used
for fire proofing, but that doesn't mean that there isn't any out there.

On Feb 24, 1:51 pm, wrote:
I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

---Matt

Use mineral wool. My AHJ swears by it and requires it instead of wood
for fire blocking. Your local contractors supply shop should carry it
(not Home Depot or Lowes; a real supply shop).

MB

"MB" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Feb 24, 1:51 pm, wrote:
I'm repairing a basement bedroom, which involved completely replacing
an exterior wall, and as a side effect the city inspector is requiring
that the entire room be brought up to code for a bedroom, not just the
wall I'm building.

One of the walls is an interior bearing wall (i.e. the joists rest on
it), so there is a vertical gap between the top plate of the wall
frame and the sub-floor above of about 9". The width of each gap
varies, but is about 13" between joists. I'm told that I need to put
fireblocks in place in these gaps to prevent drafts and fire from
moving from one space to another. Blocking off most of the gaps was
easy (I used 2" X 10" x 8' cut to length), but some of the gaps can't
be easily blocked off. Three have 6" ducts running through them, one
has the 220V line from the street running through it, and another has
a bunch of romex. Short of driving myself insane trying to cut a 2X10
to an exact fit, what can I use to block these spaces off?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

---Matt

Use mineral wool. My AHJ swears by it and requires it instead of wood
for fire blocking. Your local contractors supply shop should carry it
(not Home Depot or Lowes; a real supply shop).

MB


That's the stuff. Mineral wool. When I did jobs in NYC the contractors would
use that and apply some fireproofing paste or caulk over it to make it fire
rated.

That's the stuff. Mineral wool. When I did jobs in NYC the contractors would
use that and apply some fireproofing paste or caulk over it to make it fire
rated.- Hide quoted text -

I checked and mineral wool is indeed the stuff! Thanks for the tip! I
picked some up yesterday.

Thanks to all of you for helping me out with this. I appreciate it!