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circuit breaker boxes
We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded)
to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta |
circuit breaker boxes
In article .com,
"bubblegummom" wrote: We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Go for the 200 amp, it's becoming the standard. You do not have to use all that capacity. |
circuit breaker boxes
I'd go for 200 amp service, if at all possible, what with all the
electrical appliances, big and small, that are in a modern house. Amazing that you have survived this far! Get some estimates, etc., from a couple of electricians. Likely some other wiring might need some work as well. |
circuit breaker boxes
Also,
If we got a 125 amp ciruit breaker panel, how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? Loretta |
circuit breaker boxes
In article . com, "bubblegummom" wrote:
If we got a 125 amp ciruit breaker panel, how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
circuit breaker boxes
It's partially figured by square feet. It also matters if you have electric
range, clothes dryer, AC, etc. Typically a small house with gas appliances is fine with a 100 amp service, but if you intend to expand or get major electric appliances, you may want to consider a 200 amp service. The price difference between the two is generally only a few hundred dollars. How did you make out with your open circuit problem? "bubblegummom" wrote in message oups.com... We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta |
circuit breaker boxes
Typical 100 amp panel has about 20 spaces
"bubblegummom" wrote in message ups.com... Also, If we got a 125 amp ciruit breaker panel, how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? Loretta |
circuit breaker boxes
In article .com, "bubblegummom" wrote:
We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. For a house that small, you should be able to easily get by with 125A service, even it's total-electric with central A/C. However, 200A would be a nice feature to have when you eventually sell the house. The *labor* cost of installation should be almost exactly the same, so the cost difference should be pretty much just the difference in the cost of the panels. Add another five or ten bucks, maybe, to account for needing to use heavier service entrance conductors for the 200A service. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
circuit breaker boxes
how many spaces would be
already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc. |
circuit breaker boxes
On 2 Feb 2007 12:29:02 -0800, "bubblegummom"
wrote: We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! It's figured by what you estimate the electrical demand to be, and then again by how many different circuts you want. What's the price difference, and what size wire is your service drop? The only reason I can think of to go with a smaller panel than you can is if the price difference is a deal-breaker, or if the larger size requires a new service drop and the smaller one doesn't. |
circuit breaker boxes
It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground
fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message ps.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc. |
circuit breaker boxes
GO WITH 200, it costs little more and leaves room for expansion. years
ago I went from 60 to 100 and now need 200 amp primarily because I am out of space. Adding seperate breakers for furnace, and other dedicated outlets can easily use up your space. FAST:( |
circuit breaker boxes
If you have electric Dryer, AND central a/c, AND an electric range, then go
all the way to 200. If you have only 1 or 2 of these 3 items, then you can probably go less. But why? Just go the 200 and be done. -- Steve Barker "bubblegummom" wrote in message oups.com... We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta |
circuit breaker boxes
On Feb 2, 4:42�pm, "Steve Barker" wrote:
If you have electric Dryer, AND central a/c, AND an electric range, then go all the way to 200. *If you have only 1 or 2 of these 3 items, then you can probably go less. *But why? *Just go the 200 and be done. -- Steve Barker "bubblegummom" wrote in message oups.com... We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - then you upgrade your kitchen..... code calls for at least 2 dedicated 20 amp GFCI circuits plus one for dishwasher, one for fridge, just a kitchen can eat up 6 breakers |
circuit breaker boxes
On Feb 2, 2:29 pm, "bubblegummom" wrote:
We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta Figure one breaker for each fuse , and two each if you have doubled up on circuits to fuses. Get the cost from your utility for the monthly charges of 125 and 200 amp supplies. Get the cost to upgrade from your current service to 125 or 200 amp. If its the same go for 200 amp. If you are planning on selling the home go for 200 amp supply. Plan out your breaker panel, seperate kitchen from the rest of the house , allow for water heater , stove , air conditioning on seperate breakers. |
circuit breaker boxes
Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message ps.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
circuit breaker boxes
It's fine to do that, but unless your bedrooms were wired on dedicated
circuits, maybe not practical given the issues with the current crop of AFCI breakers, also if you buy a full sized panel, such as a forty circuit 200 amp panel, there are no half size breakers allowed. You only have provisions for half sized breakers with reduced size panels "N8N" wrote in message oups.com... Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message ps.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
circuit breaker boxes
On Fri, 2 Feb 2007 15:53:44 -0500, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote: Typical 100 amp panel has about 20 spaces That's how many mine does (100A Square D Q0). I don't know about a 125A. "bubblegummom" wrote in message oups.com... Also, If we got a 125 amp ciruit breaker panel, how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? Loretta -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has no place in the curriculum of our nation's public school classes." -- Ted Kennedy |
circuit breaker boxes
On 2 Feb 2007 13:44:47 -0800, "
wrote: On Feb 2, 4:42?pm, "Steve Barker" wrote: If you have electric Dryer, AND central a/c, AND an electric range, then go all the way to 200. f you have only 1 or 2 of these 3 items, then you can probably go less. ut why? ust go the 200 and be done. -- Steve Barker "bubblegummom" wrote in message oups.com... We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - then you upgrade your kitchen..... code calls for at least 2 dedicated 20 amp GFCI circuits plus one for dishwasher, one for fridge, just a kitchen can eat up 6 breakers My kitchen is using 8 spaces. Double-pole breakers for oven and cooktop (these are separate built-in units), a dedicated circuit for the dishwasher, and 3 additional circuits. -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has no place in the curriculum of our nation's public school classes." -- Ted Kennedy |
circuit breaker boxes
I don't know that I've ever seen a factory built 125 amp main breaker panel.
I've seen 125 amp main lug panels, and 125 amp main disconnect panels. I can't even find one googling for it "Mark Lloyd" wrote in message ... On Fri, 2 Feb 2007 15:53:44 -0500, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: Typical 100 amp panel has about 20 spaces That's how many mine does (100A Square D Q0). I don't know about a 125A. "bubblegummom" wrote in message roups.com... Also, If we got a 125 amp ciruit breaker panel, how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? Loretta -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has no place in the curriculum of our nation's public school classes." -- Ted Kennedy |
subpanel question was circuit breaker boxes
My bedrooms are all on the same circuit, and the only other room on that
circuit is the bathroom. I would like to split that off anyway so in my case I really don't care. At the same time I do that I will probably pull another homerun from the 2nd floor back to the breaker panel so that I can split the bedrooms into two circuits (yes I have another AFCI standing by.) I actually have a 40 ckt. 200A panel in my house, but it only has 20 full sized breaker spaces, so there's lots of half height breakers in there (now.) If *I* were the guy doing the upgrade, I would have spec'd a larger panel, but that's water under the bridge. I'm digressing a bit, but sort of on the same topic, I have a question regarding the wiring between my house and my garage. The house's breaker panel has a 100A 2-pole breaker in it, which feeds the subpanel in the garage. The other end of that wire connects to a 100A 2-pole breaker in the sub-panel. That just seems weird and redundant to me. Is this common practice, and what is the reason for it? Or did someone improvise "on the fly" and what would be the right way to do it? nate RBM wrote: It's fine to do that, but unless your bedrooms were wired on dedicated circuits, maybe not practical given the issues with the current crop of AFCI breakers, also if you buy a full sized panel, such as a forty circuit 200 amp panel, there are no half size breakers allowed. You only have provisions for half sized breakers with reduced size panels "N8N" wrote in message oups.com... Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message roups.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
circuit breaker boxes
"bubblegummom" wrote in message oups.com... We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta Always check with your utility company when doing an upgrade. If you have been getting by with a 60 ampere service you probably do not need more than a 100 or 125 ampere upgrade. Per Code Section 220.83(A) for upgrading an existing service for additional loads where air conditioning and electric heat are not added the following is used: First 8 KVA of load at 100 per cent Remainder of load at 40 per cent Where load is 3 VA/ sq.ft or for you 3 x 1240 = 3720 VA Small appliance load = 3000 VA Household range (usually 8000 VA) All other appliances pemanently connected (like a boiler motor or bathroom fan) or fastened in place (dishwasher) at nameplate ratings. (For good measure just add 3000 VA here.) This gives 3720+3000+8000+3000 = 17720 First 8000 VA at 100 per cent + 0.40 x (17720-8000) = 11888 VA 11888 VA / 240 volts = 99 amperes So using this calculation a 100 ampere service would suffice. If you are adding or have air conditioning and electric heat or are planning to add a two car garage and a shop, etc upgrade to a 200 ampere service. |
subpanel question was circuit breaker boxes
The breaker in the main panel protects the wiring to the garage. If the
garage is detached, it's required to have a disconnect in it. If it's attached, the electrician probably got a good deal on a panel with a main breaker "Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... My bedrooms are all on the same circuit, and the only other room on that circuit is the bathroom. I would like to split that off anyway so in my case I really don't care. At the same time I do that I will probably pull another homerun from the 2nd floor back to the breaker panel so that I can split the bedrooms into two circuits (yes I have another AFCI standing by.) I actually have a 40 ckt. 200A panel in my house, but it only has 20 full sized breaker spaces, so there's lots of half height breakers in there (now.) If *I* were the guy doing the upgrade, I would have spec'd a larger panel, but that's water under the bridge. I'm digressing a bit, but sort of on the same topic, I have a question regarding the wiring between my house and my garage. The house's breaker panel has a 100A 2-pole breaker in it, which feeds the subpanel in the garage. The other end of that wire connects to a 100A 2-pole breaker in the sub-panel. That just seems weird and redundant to me. Is this common practice, and what is the reason for it? Or did someone improvise "on the fly" and what would be the right way to do it? nate RBM wrote: It's fine to do that, but unless your bedrooms were wired on dedicated circuits, maybe not practical given the issues with the current crop of AFCI breakers, also if you buy a full sized panel, such as a forty circuit 200 amp panel, there are no half size breakers allowed. You only have provisions for half sized breakers with reduced size panels "N8N" wrote in message oups.com... Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message groups.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
subpanel question was circuit breaker boxes
The garage is detached; the subpanel doesn't have a main breaker, it's
just fed through a regular 100A breaker. The home inspector didn't seem to think it was weird, except for the fact that the ground terminal strip was mounted too close to the front of the panel. nate RBM wrote: The breaker in the main panel protects the wiring to the garage. If the garage is detached, it's required to have a disconnect in it. If it's attached, the electrician probably got a good deal on a panel with a main breaker "Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... My bedrooms are all on the same circuit, and the only other room on that circuit is the bathroom. I would like to split that off anyway so in my case I really don't care. At the same time I do that I will probably pull another homerun from the 2nd floor back to the breaker panel so that I can split the bedrooms into two circuits (yes I have another AFCI standing by.) I actually have a 40 ckt. 200A panel in my house, but it only has 20 full sized breaker spaces, so there's lots of half height breakers in there (now.) If *I* were the guy doing the upgrade, I would have spec'd a larger panel, but that's water under the bridge. I'm digressing a bit, but sort of on the same topic, I have a question regarding the wiring between my house and my garage. The house's breaker panel has a 100A 2-pole breaker in it, which feeds the subpanel in the garage. The other end of that wire connects to a 100A 2-pole breaker in the sub-panel. That just seems weird and redundant to me. Is this common practice, and what is the reason for it? Or did someone improvise "on the fly" and what would be the right way to do it? nate RBM wrote: It's fine to do that, but unless your bedrooms were wired on dedicated circuits, maybe not practical given the issues with the current crop of AFCI breakers, also if you buy a full sized panel, such as a forty circuit 200 amp panel, there are no half size breakers allowed. You only have provisions for half sized breakers with reduced size panels "N8N" wrote in message egroups.com... Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message egroups.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
subpanel question was circuit breaker boxes
That's fine, he just back fed a main lug panel
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... The garage is detached; the subpanel doesn't have a main breaker, it's just fed through a regular 100A breaker. The home inspector didn't seem to think it was weird, except for the fact that the ground terminal strip was mounted too close to the front of the panel. nate RBM wrote: The breaker in the main panel protects the wiring to the garage. If the garage is detached, it's required to have a disconnect in it. If it's attached, the electrician probably got a good deal on a panel with a main breaker "Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... My bedrooms are all on the same circuit, and the only other room on that circuit is the bathroom. I would like to split that off anyway so in my case I really don't care. At the same time I do that I will probably pull another homerun from the 2nd floor back to the breaker panel so that I can split the bedrooms into two circuits (yes I have another AFCI standing by.) I actually have a 40 ckt. 200A panel in my house, but it only has 20 full sized breaker spaces, so there's lots of half height breakers in there (now.) If *I* were the guy doing the upgrade, I would have spec'd a larger panel, but that's water under the bridge. I'm digressing a bit, but sort of on the same topic, I have a question regarding the wiring between my house and my garage. The house's breaker panel has a 100A 2-pole breaker in it, which feeds the subpanel in the garage. The other end of that wire connects to a 100A 2-pole breaker in the sub-panel. That just seems weird and redundant to me. Is this common practice, and what is the reason for it? Or did someone improvise "on the fly" and what would be the right way to do it? nate RBM wrote: It's fine to do that, but unless your bedrooms were wired on dedicated circuits, maybe not practical given the issues with the current crop of AFCI breakers, also if you buy a full sized panel, such as a forty circuit 200 amp panel, there are no half size breakers allowed. You only have provisions for half sized breakers with reduced size panels "N8N" wrote in message legroups.com... Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message legroups.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
circuit breaker boxes
bubblegummom wrote:
We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! Loretta It sounds to me like you're using a lot of electricity for such a small house; is it all-electric? -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
circuit breaker boxes
Goedjn wrote:
On 2 Feb 2007 12:29:02 -0800, "bubblegummom" wrote: We're thinking of upgrading our 60 amp fuse box (presently overloaded) to a circuit breaker panel. How do I know if we should get a 125 amp or a 200 amp panel? According to Zillow.com our house is 1,240 square feet, in case it's figured by square feet. Thanks! It's figured by what you estimate the electrical demand to be, and then again by how many different circuts you want. What's the price difference, and what size wire is your service drop? The only reason I can think of to go with a smaller panel than you can is if the price difference is a deal-breaker, or if the larger size requires a new service drop and the smaller one doesn't. I'm of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school. The OP might find the upgrade requires bringing everything else up to current code, which could get very expensive. A bit of conservation could pay big dividends. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
circuit breaker boxes
Steve Barker wrote:
If you have electric Dryer, AND central a/c, AND an electric range, then go all the way to 200. If you have only 1 or 2 of these 3 items, then you can probably go less. But why? Just go the 200 and be done. In other words, it's only money ... -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
circuit breaker boxes
|
circuit breaker boxes
N8N wrote:
Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. What electrician will be willing to bring something "closer than it was" to code? My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message oups.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
circuit breaker boxes
CJT wrote:
N8N wrote: Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. What electrician will be willing to bring something "closer than it was" to code? I didn't say I was a professional. But the only items not to code that I'm aware of right now are the lack of a dedicated 20A circuit to the bathroom, one kitchen counter outlet that's on a 15A general lighting/receptacle circuit, and a few remaining receptacles that aren't grounded. I'm picking away at those issues, but my point was I don't particularly see the point of saying "well, it still won't be perfectly code compliant for new construction, so why bother?" nate -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
circuit breaker boxes
Nate Nagel wrote:
CJT wrote: N8N wrote: Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. What electrician will be willing to bring something "closer than it was" to code? I didn't say I was a professional. But the only items not to code that I'm aware of right now are the lack of a dedicated 20A circuit to the bathroom, one kitchen counter outlet that's on a 15A general lighting/receptacle circuit, and a few remaining receptacles that aren't grounded. I'm picking away at those issues, but my point was I don't particularly see the point of saying "well, it still won't be perfectly code compliant for new construction, so why bother?" nate There's no indication the OP would be willing to make the changes on their own. So an electrician will be involved. My question stands. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
circuit breaker boxes
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circuit breaker boxes
bubblegummom wrote:
Also, If we got a 125 amp ciruit breaker panel, how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? Loretta Wrong question. No one here is going to consider a 125A box when a 200A box is the standard, costs no more to install, has plenty of room for expansion, and is a negligble increase in price over a 125A. |
circuit breaker boxes
RBM wrote:
It's partially figured by square feet. It also matters if you have electric range, clothes dryer, AC, etc. Typically a small house with gas appliances is fine with a 100 amp service, but if you intend to expand or get major electric appliances, you may want to consider a 200 amp service. The price difference between the two is generally only a few hundred dollars. How did you make out with your open circuit problem? A few hundred dollars? Try $65. Here's two kits: The 200Amp kit is $125.00 and comes with 14 breakers. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=39537-296-HOMVP9&lpage=none Here's the corresponding 100A kit for $60.00 (with a mere 5 breakers) http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...VP5&lpage=none Mind you, these are RETAIL prices. |
circuit breaker boxes
Where I live, and work,(as an electrical contractor) electrical services,
regardless of their amperage, don't install themselves, and while the price of installing a service is determined not only by the equipment being installed but also by particulars of each job, in general a 200 amp overhead service costs about three hundred dollars more than a 100 amp service. We also don't have a "standard" service, most new houses do have 200 amp services installed, but the NEC requires a minimum of 100 amps, and for a very small house with gas cooking 100 amps should be more than adequate "HeyBub" wrote in message ... RBM wrote: It's partially figured by square feet. It also matters if you have electric range, clothes dryer, AC, etc. Typically a small house with gas appliances is fine with a 100 amp service, but if you intend to expand or get major electric appliances, you may want to consider a 200 amp service. The price difference between the two is generally only a few hundred dollars. How did you make out with your open circuit problem? A few hundred dollars? Try $65. Here's two kits: The 200Amp kit is $125.00 and comes with 14 breakers. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=39537-296-HOMVP9&lpage=none Here's the corresponding 100A kit for $60.00 (with a mere 5 breakers) http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...VP5&lpage=none Mind you, these are RETAIL prices. |
circuit breaker boxes
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subpanel question was circuit breaker boxes
If the garage panel has 6 or less breakers (a two-pole breaker with the
handles tied only counts as one), it doesn't need a main disconnect. Best regards, Bob Nate Nagel wrote: The garage is detached; the subpanel doesn't have a main breaker, it's just fed through a regular 100A breaker. The home inspector didn't seem to think it was weird, except for the fact that the ground terminal strip was mounted too close to the front of the panel. nate RBM wrote: The breaker in the main panel protects the wiring to the garage. If the garage is detached, it's required to have a disconnect in it. If it's attached, the electrician probably got a good deal on a panel with a main breaker "Nate Nagel" wrote in message ... My bedrooms are all on the same circuit, and the only other room on that circuit is the bathroom. I would like to split that off anyway so in my case I really don't care. At the same time I do that I will probably pull another homerun from the 2nd floor back to the breaker panel so that I can split the bedrooms into two circuits (yes I have another AFCI standing by.) I actually have a 40 ckt. 200A panel in my house, but it only has 20 full sized breaker spaces, so there's lots of half height breakers in there (now.) If *I* were the guy doing the upgrade, I would have spec'd a larger panel, but that's water under the bridge. I'm digressing a bit, but sort of on the same topic, I have a question regarding the wiring between my house and my garage. The house's breaker panel has a 100A 2-pole breaker in it, which feeds the subpanel in the garage. The other end of that wire connects to a 100A 2-pole breaker in the sub-panel. That just seems weird and redundant to me. Is this common practice, and what is the reason for it? Or did someone improvise "on the fly" and what would be the right way to do it? nate RBM wrote: It's fine to do that, but unless your bedrooms were wired on dedicated circuits, maybe not practical given the issues with the current crop of AFCI breakers, also if you buy a full sized panel, such as a forty circuit 200 amp panel, there are no half size breakers allowed. You only have provisions for half sized breakers with reduced size panels "N8N" wrote in message oups.com... Why not? I've added an AFCI to my house, along with a TVSS. I used receptacles where GFCIs would be required. It takes minimal effort "while you're in there" and while it may not be 100% compliant with modern codes, it's closer than it was. My advice would be to use full sized breakers exclusively, but get a panel that allows half height breakers, that way there's room for expansion in the future. nate On Feb 2, 4:25 pm, "RBM" rbm2(remove wrote: It's an old house so they probably wouldn't be using any arc fault or ground fault breakers, which incidentally take the same space as any other full sized breaker wrote in message ps.com... how many spaces would be already filled by the items in our present fuse box and how many extra spaces would there be? You'll use the same number of breakers as the number of fuses you're using now. True, but on a breaker box more space is better. What I can't say for sure is how many arc fault or ground fault breakers that they might want to put in. Those take up a lot of space. More space is beneficial because then you can put all your applicnaces on separate breakers, and then your toaster oven and microwave on separate breakers as well, etc.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
circuit breaker boxes
In article , "HeyBub" wrote:
A few hundred dollars? Try $65. Here's two kits: The 200Amp kit is $125.00 and comes with 14 breakers. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...537-296-HOMVP9 &lpage=none Here's the corresponding 100A kit for $60.00 (with a mere 5 breakers) http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...32-296-HOMVP5& lpage=none Mind you, these are RETAIL prices. Now add in the difference between 2/0 copper (or 4/0 aluminum) vs. #2 copper (or 1/0 aluminum) service entrance conductors. Don't forget that 200A service requires a heavier grounding conductor, too. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
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