I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.

However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?

Thanks

blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.

However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?

Thanks

What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the
plunger passes thru (the one that you see when you have
installed the mortise lock). For the interior, it is not that
critical. You can do it with a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one
for the plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a
rectangle). Select the proper size drill bit and drill a
series of holes within the layout marks for the lock. Use the
chisel to clean out the rest. Then, use the chisel to mortise
for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from
both sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Robert Allison writes:
blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks

What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed the mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can do it with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a rectangle). Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling "plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole and the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a mistake you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)

blueman wrote:

Robert Allison writes:

blueman wrote:

I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks

What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed the mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can do it with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a rectangle). Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.


My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling "plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole and the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a mistake you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)

Yes, but I think that you are overestimating the difficulty.
If you place the door on the ground and brace it to hold it
still, it is not hard to do. I have often done this with the
doors still hanging in the frame. I have never had a problem
with either the drill or the chisels coming out the face of
the door.

Try it with a 2x4 or 2x6 and you will see that it is not that
difficult.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

blueman wrote:
Robert Allison writes:
blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks
What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed the mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can do it with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a rectangle). Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling "plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole and the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a mistake you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)

I'm not sure what the Baldwin lock is, but
normally any lock has a big hole in the side of
the door (key part) and a small hole in the edge
(plunger part). Some also require the edge around
the small hole to be chiseled for a plate.

If it is a normal lock then both Lowe's and HD
carry a jig plus hole drills for locating and
drilling the holes accurately (about $12 for a
wood door and a bit more for a steel door).
Chiseling for the flat plate (plunger end) is
usually done freehand.

The jig is nailed or screwed to the edge of the
door and the nail/screw holes are filled after use.

blueman wrote:

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling "plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door.

Drill through a hardwood block and use it as a guide when drilling into
the door. Handheld doweling jigs also make great drill guides if you
don't have a drill press or other accurate way to make the guide block.

"blueman" wrote in message
...
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.

However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?

Thanks

I've always just done them by hand with a chisel and then drill out the hole
for the bolt. If you're bent on using a router (which makes sense if
you've got a bunch to do), there are templates available but you can easily
make one with a small piece of ply. Just cut the template taking into
account the bearing on your router and voila! you've got a template.
Cheers,
cc

Practice on some scrap pieces of wood until you get good at it. Then
do the door.

You, sir, need to find out what a mortise lock is.

Here is a definition:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_lock

Here is an example:
http://www.sargentlock.com/products/...duct_group.php

______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
...
blueman wrote:
Robert Allison writes:
blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise
lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors
being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with
a fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local
tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable
alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks
What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the
plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed the
mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can do
it with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one
for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a rectangle).
Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within
the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the
rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from
both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling
"plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is
that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole
and the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a
mistake you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and
get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)

I'm not sure what the Baldwin lock is, but normally any lock has
a big hole in the side of the door (key part) and a small hole
in the edge (plunger part). Some also require the edge around
the small hole to be chiseled for a plate.

If it is a normal lock then both Lowe's and HD carry a jig plus
hole drills for locating and drilling the holes accurately
(about $12 for a wood door and a bit more for a steel door).
Chiseling for the flat plate (plunger end) is usually done
freehand.

The jig is nailed or screwed to the edge of the door and the
nail/screw holes are filled after use.

Right you are, and I did. I've never seen a
mortise lock in a newer home. But, it sounded
like the OP simply meant a standard lock with a
plate around the plunger mortised into edge of the
door. On rereading it, he probably did mean a
true mortise lock. He ought to have someone else
do it for him if he isn't skilled with hand tools
and be prepared to pay a lot.

DanG wrote:
You, sir, need to find out what a mortise lock is.

Here is a definition:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_lock

Here is an example:
http://www.sargentlock.com/products/...duct_group.php

______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
...
blueman wrote:
Robert Allison writes:
blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise
lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors
being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with
a fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local
tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable
alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks
What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the
plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed the
mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can do
it with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one
for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a rectangle).
Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within
the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the
rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from
both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling
"plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is
that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole
and the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a
mistake you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and
get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)
I'm not sure what the Baldwin lock is, but normally any lock has
a big hole in the side of the door (key part) and a small hole
in the edge (plunger part). Some also require the edge around
the small hole to be chiseled for a plate.

If it is a normal lock then both Lowe's and HD carry a jig plus
hole drills for locating and drilling the holes accurately
(about $12 for a wood door and a bit more for a steel door).
Chiseling for the flat plate (plunger end) is usually done
freehand.

The jig is nailed or screwed to the edge of the door and the
nail/screw holes are filled after use.

Fast work for one of these.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/welcome.pl?ref=froogle+page=/a/port/pr513.htm
I own one, but for only one door, I usually do it with bits and
chisels. The fit for the mortise box and scalp plate on the door
edge do call for a router template whether one or many.


Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
...
Right you are, and I did. I've never seen a mortise lock in a
newer home. But, it sounded like the OP simply meant a standard
lock with a plate around the plunger mortised into edge of the
door. On rereading it, he probably did mean a true mortise
lock. He ought to have someone else do it for him if he isn't
skilled with hand tools and be prepared to pay a lot.

DanG wrote:
You, sir, need to find out what a mortise lock is.

Here is a definition:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_lock

Here is an example:
http://www.sargentlock.com/products/...duct_group.php

______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
...
blueman wrote:
Robert Allison writes:
blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise
lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors
being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router
with a fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local
tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable
alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks
What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the
plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed
the mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can
do it with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be
one for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a rectangle).
Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within
the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the
rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from
both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling
"plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is
that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole
and the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a
mistake you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and
get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)
I'm not sure what the Baldwin lock is, but normally any lock
has a big hole in the side of the door (key part) and a small
hole in the edge (plunger part). Some also require the edge
around the small hole to be chiseled for a plate.

If it is a normal lock then both Lowe's and HD carry a jig
plus hole drills for locating and drilling the holes
accurately (about $12 for a wood door and a bit more for a
steel door). Chiseling for the flat plate (plunger end) is
usually done freehand.

The jig is nailed or screwed to the edge of the door and the
nail/screw holes are filled after use.

"George E. Cawthon" writes:
Right you are, and I did. I've never seen a mortise lock in a newer
home. But, it sounded like the OP simply meant a standard lock with a
plate around the plunger mortised into edge of the door. On rereading
it, he probably did mean a true mortise lock. He ought to have
someone else do it for him if he isn't skilled with hand tools and be
prepared to pay a lot.

Yes I did mean a true mortise lock and our home is by no means new (at
least by U.S. standards) since parts of it were built back in the
1700's and the rest in 1870.

Even so, true mortise locks, like the Baldwin Estate series, are used
commonly today in many high end homes.

Personally, I love the solid feel of the hardware and the ability to
have both a standard plunger and a dead bolt in the same mechanism.

Still debating though whether to do it myself or pay the several
hundred dollars the local locksmith wants for the installation (plus
his marckup on the lock itself).



DanG wrote:
You, sir, need to find out what a mortise lock is.
Here is a definition:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_lock
Here is an example:
http://www.sargentlock.com/products/...duct_group.php
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
...
blueman wrote:
Robert Allison writes:
blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being
pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a
fancy
mortising jig.
However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool
rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable
alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?
Thanks
What is really tight is the mortise for the plate that the plunger
passes thru (the one that you see when you have installed the
mortise
lock). For the interior, it is not that critical. You can do it
with
a drill and a good chisel.

First lay out the two areas to be mortised. There will be one
for the
plate and one for the lock (a rectangle within a
rectangle). Select
the proper size drill bit and drill a series of holes within the
layout marks for the lock. Use the chisel to clean out the rest.
Then, use the chisel to mortise for the plate.

You should drill the handle holes after doing this, and from both
sides, rather than straight through the whole door.

My concern is that I need to keep the drilling & chiselling
"plumb" or
otherwise I will "poke" through the door. My understanding is that
there is not much wood left standing between the mortise hole and
the
door faces.

I guess I could always just be careful, but this is not a mistake
you
want to make (and maybe I should just dig into my pockets and get a
locksmith to come out to my house...)
I'm not sure what the Baldwin lock is, but normally any lock has a
big hole in the side of the door (key part) and a small hole in the
edge (plunger part). Some also require the edge around the small
hole to be chiseled for a plate.

If it is a normal lock then both Lowe's and HD carry a jig plus
hole drills for locating and drilling the holes accurately (about
$12 for a wood door and a bit more for a steel door). Chiseling for
the flat plate (plunger end) is usually done freehand.

The jig is nailed or screwed to the edge of the door and the
nail/screw holes are filled after use.

"DanG" writes:
Fast work for one of these.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/welcome.pl?ref=froogle+page=/a/port/pr513.htm
I own one, but for only one door, I usually do it with bits and
chisels. The fit for the mortise box and scalp plate on the door
edge do call for a router template whether one or many.


Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


Yeah -- that's the exact tool I would love to rent.
But for $979 can't really justify for one door...

Well that's what I get for assuming, but I would
have assume correctly about 95 percent of the
time. And the date of your house explains it.
Don't know about a high end house. High end here
currently means $500,000 and above, but in CA
my low end house would be above $500,000.

In the west a house built before 1850 is old, old,
but then only a few trappers were around before
1850 in many places. You ought to see a one of
the first houses in Boise -- log cabin about 10
feet by 15 feet. Not exactly high end. Kind of
high end with all the money the spent on
preserving the wreck.



blueman wrote:
"George E. Cawthon" writes:
Right you are, and I did. I've never seen a mortise lock in a newer
home. But, it sounded like the OP simply meant a standard lock with a
plate around the plunger mortised into edge of the door. On rereading
it, he probably did mean a true mortise lock. He ought to have
someone else do it for him if he isn't skilled with hand tools and be
prepared to pay a lot.

Yes I did mean a true mortise lock and our home is by no means new (at
least by U.S. standards) since parts of it were built back in the
1700's and the rest in 1870.

Even so, true mortise locks, like the Baldwin Estate series, are used
commonly today in many high end homes.

Personally, I love the solid feel of the hardware and the ability to
have both a standard plunger and a dead bolt in the same mechanism.

Still debating though whether to do it myself or pay the several
hundred dollars the local locksmith wants for the installation (plus
his marckup on the lock itself).

On Sunday, October 15, 2006 10:20:30 PM UTC-7, blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.

However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?

Thanks

Yes there is but you need patience.

I had a chinese mortise lock set my friends got in China of all places.
First of course you will need to router your outer flange area that will hold the mortise lock in place.
Next, I was able to go to Home Depot and buy a 5/8" dia hole drill bit for my drill. I installed the bit on my drill with the shaft at it's "utmost extended portion" of the shaft. (I used a drill with a hand tightened chuck). Usually the lock set has a pattern so I marked were my lock set was going to be using this pattern. You have to make sure your drill is at a 90 degree angel at all times while drilling the gap out. I had to use about 7 holes befroe I was done.
Next, I got a very sharp wood chisel and a hammer and cleaned up the edges going deep into the wood. Get a vacuum cleaner to clean out the hole from time to time so you can see what you are doing.
It may be rugged but if you are careful you will get the mortise hardware in the gap easily.
Next using your stencil pattern mark your holes, drill the holes then install the lock.
Taa Daa!
Mine turned out pretty god.

On 2/27/2014 7:26 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, October 15, 2006 10:20:30 PM UTC-7, blueman wrote:
I need to mortise out a door to accept a Baldwin mortise lock.
I know that the tolerances are really tight (with errors being pretty
disasterous) and that locksmiths typically use a router with a fancy
mortising jig.

However, I have not been able to find the jig in the local tool rental
shops, so I was wondering whether there are any reliable alternative
approaches or sources for a good jig?

Thanks

Yes there is but you need patience.

I had a chinese mortise lock set my friends got in China of all places.
First of course you will need to router your outer flange area that will hold the mortise lock in place.
Next, I was able to go to Home Depot and buy a 5/8" dia hole drill bit for my drill. I installed the bit on my drill with the shaft at it's "utmost extended portion" of the shaft. (I used a drill with a hand tightened chuck). Usually the lock set has a pattern so I marked were my lock set was going to be using this pattern. You have to make sure your drill is at a 90 degree angel at all times while drilling the gap out. I had to use about 7 holes befroe I was done.
Next, I got a very sharp wood chisel and a hammer and cleaned up the edges going deep into the wood. Get a vacuum cleaner to clean out the hole from time to time so you can see what you are doing.
It may be rugged but if you are careful you will get the mortise hardware in the gap easily.
Next using your stencil pattern mark your holes, drill the holes then install the lock.
Taa Daa!
Mine turned out pretty god.

2006 is what, seven years ago? Wonder if the guy
ever got a lock on his door?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

Mine turned out pretty god.


Praise the lord!

--
Tekkie