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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?

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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?


Darryl wrote:
I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?


The usual method is to use a scrap piece of the T&G edge. mate it to
the big sheet then pound on the the scrap. You can do the same thing
by scabbing something to the sleepers back a bit and then prying
againsst the t&g scrap. It helps to have a helper who can step on the
edge you are trying to mate to make the t meet the g right.

Harry K

Harry K

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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

Darryl wrote:
I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers.
This is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in
the adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found
out that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering
just smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.


If you can't beat it in after protecting edge with a piece of matching
scrap, try a couple of pipe clamps.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

Place a 2x4 flat along the "hammer" side of the OSB. Hit the 2x4 with a
sledgehammer. Take care not to get overly aggressive with your hammering.
Most subfloor panels specify 1/8" gap at all sides for expansion.

Shannon Pate

"Darryl" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?



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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

Darryl wrote:

I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?



I will bet that you mean 1-1/4" as I have never heard of
1-3/4". But to get back to your question, lay a 2x4 along the
free edge, then tap the sheet into the groove with a sledge
hammer. Doesn't take much effort.

For future installations, I always use the tongue as a leading
edge and tap the groove onto it. It is easier to install that
way.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX


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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

Having a gap on T&G subfloor kinda defeats the purpose of using T&G, don't
it?

"Shannon Pate" wrote in message
...
Place a 2x4 flat along the "hammer" side of the OSB. Hit the 2x4 with a
sledgehammer. Take care not to get overly aggressive with your hammering.
Most subfloor panels specify 1/8" gap at all sides for expansion.

Shannon Pate

"Darryl" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?





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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

On 2006-10-04, Chas Hurst wrote:

Having a gap on T&G subfloor kinda defeats the purpose of using T&G,
don't it?


Not if the gap is small (1/8") compared to the tongue size (1"). Wayne
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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?

You'd think that, wouldn't ya?

However, if you nail it tight and it gets wet, the wood will try to swell.
If it has room, it will expand in the gap you left around the edges. If you
left no edge, it will expand anyway, raising the seam, and probably
delaminating the sheets.

Then you call the supplier to complain of this horrible product he shipped
and demand that it be replaced. So he sends the rep to your jobsite and
thirty seconds later the rep shows you the stamp on the panel that says to
maintain 1/8" gap.

After the rep leaves, you learn how difficult it is to remove screwed and
glued sheets of subflooring.

Therefore, although it may "defeat the purpose," I follow the instructions
as much as possible.

Shannon Pate

"Chas Hurst" wrote in message
. ..
Having a gap on T&G subfloor kinda defeats the purpose of using T&G, don't
it?

"Shannon Pate" wrote in message
...
Place a 2x4 flat along the "hammer" side of the OSB. Hit the 2x4 with a
sledgehammer. Take care not to get overly aggressive with your hammering.
Most subfloor panels specify 1/8" gap at all sides for expansion.

Shannon Pate

"Darryl" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?







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Default t&g osb: how to get it to connect?


"Shannon Pate" wrote in message
...
You'd think that, wouldn't ya?

However, if you nail it tight and it gets wet, the wood will try to swell.
If it has room, it will expand in the gap you left around the edges. If
you left no edge, it will expand anyway, raising the seam, and probably
delaminating the sheets.

Then you call the supplier to complain of this horrible product he shipped
and demand that it be replaced. So he sends the rep to your jobsite and
thirty seconds later the rep shows you the stamp on the panel that says to
maintain 1/8" gap.

After the rep leaves, you learn how difficult it is to remove screwed and
glued sheets of subflooring.

Therefore, although it may "defeat the purpose," I follow the instructions
as much as possible.

Shannon Pate


The last floor (and only floor) I put down was 3/4 T&G ply and I followed
the lead of TOH and butted it up tight. I nailed it down with ring shanks
and after 3 years there's no problems. I waited till the building was
completely closed so the floor has never got wet.

"Chas Hurst" wrote in message
. ..
Having a gap on T&G subfloor kinda defeats the purpose of using T&G,
don't it?

"Shannon Pate" wrote in message
...
Place a 2x4 flat along the "hammer" side of the OSB. Hit the 2x4 with a
sledgehammer. Take care not to get overly aggressive with your
hammering. Most subfloor panels specify 1/8" gap at all sides for
expansion.

Shannon Pate

"Darryl" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm installing 1 3/4 t&g osb for a basment floor on 2x4 sleepers. This
is my first subfloor project.

How do I get the tongue of one 4x8 sheet to mesh with the groove in the
adjoining one? Pushing doesn't seem to do it (although I found out
that construction glue is really, really sticky), and hammering just
smashes the hammered side. Kicking it didn't work.

I'm wishing for something like a come-along that would PULL the two
sheets together, but I have no idea if such a thing exists.

I'm doing this myself, so I'm wondering if the normal method is to have
several beefy guys just lean into each sheet to make it snap in. If
so, the damn book neglected to mention that in the "needed tools" list!

Maybe use a hydraulic jack to push, & a 6' 2x4 along the edge?









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