I have a relatively new metal exterior door that was thrown in by a
previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house since it
looks new and has only factory primer on it.

Anyway, being thrown in, it is not in straight. Not bad but not straight.
I really should have taken it out and put it back in before I redid the
inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...

Problem is there is 0 clearance at one end (actually 0 since it scrapes)
of the door on the bottom with the threshhold. At the other end of the
bottom there is a gap. Enough to see visable light as well as
considerable cold air in the winter.

A level on frame of the vertical hinge side shows it's off which explains
the bottom of the door issue. I guess what I need to do is be able to put
a U-channel (door shoe?) on the bottom of the door where the channel is
the width of the door thickness and has rubber on the bottom that meets
the threshold.

Having no clearance now, I assume I have to make clearance. All I can
think of is to cut a bit off the bottom of the metal door. The bottom
couple inches of the door is not solid.

Are these doors made to so they can be cut if necessary? Like with a jig
saw or circ saw with a metal blade?

Thanks,
Al...

Maybe re-hang it? Sorry. Tom
Al Bundy wrote:
I have a relatively new metal exterior door that was thrown in by a
previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house since it
looks new and has only factory primer on it.

Anyway, being thrown in, it is not in straight. Not bad but not straight.
I really should have taken it out and put it back in before I redid the
inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...

Problem is there is 0 clearance at one end (actually 0 since it scrapes)
of the door on the bottom with the threshhold. At the other end of the
bottom there is a gap. Enough to see visable light as well as
considerable cold air in the winter.

A level on frame of the vertical hinge side shows it's off which explains
the bottom of the door issue. I guess what I need to do is be able to put
a U-channel (door shoe?) on the bottom of the door where the channel is
the width of the door thickness and has rubber on the bottom that meets
the threshold.

Having no clearance now, I assume I have to make clearance. All I can
think of is to cut a bit off the bottom of the metal door. The bottom
couple inches of the door is not solid.

Are these doors made to so they can be cut if necessary? Like with a jig
saw or circ saw with a metal blade?

Thanks,
Al...

Al Bundy wrote:
I have a relatively new metal exterior door that was thrown in by a
previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house since it
looks new and has only factory primer on it.

Anyway, being thrown in, it is not in straight. Not bad but not
straight. I really should have taken it out and put it back in
before I redid the inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...

Problem is there is 0 clearance at one end (actually 0 since it
scrapes) of the door on the bottom with the threshhold. At the
other end of the bottom there is a gap. Enough to see visable light
as well as considerable cold air in the winter.

Don't cut the door. Check the threshold piece...many are made so they
can be raised/lowered/tilted with integral bolts. The door should
close against the raised part of the threshold and against a magnetic
gasket so that air/light doesn't come through.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-instal...lass-entry-sys
tems--bg-1284494.html

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Sometimes a door will sag a little with just short screws thru the hinge
into the jamb. I like to take out one of the screws in the top hinge and
replace it with a longer one that penetrates the 2X. This will usually suck
the door up off the jamb.

"tom" wrote in
ups.com:

Maybe re-hang it? Sorry. Tom
Al Bundy wrote:
I have a relatively new metal exterior door that was thrown in by a
previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house since it
looks new and has only factory primer on it.

Anyway, being thrown in, it is not in straight. Not bad but not
straight. I really should have taken it out and put it back in before
I redid the inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...

Problem is there is 0 clearance at one end (actually 0 since it
scrapes) of the door on the bottom with the threshhold. At the other
end of the bottom there is a gap. Enough to see visable light as well
as considerable cold air in the winter.

A level on frame of the vertical hinge side shows it's off which
explains the bottom of the door issue. I guess what I need to do is
be able to put a U-channel (door shoe?) on the bottom of the door
where the channel is the width of the door thickness and has rubber
on the bottom that meets the threshold.

Having no clearance now, I assume I have to make clearance. All I can
think of is to cut a bit off the bottom of the metal door. The bottom
couple inches of the door is not solid.

Are these doors made to so they can be cut if necessary? Like with a
jig saw or circ saw with a metal blade?

Thanks,
Al...


As I said...

I really should have taken it out and put it back in before I redid the
inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...

"dadiOH" wrote in news:d%PRg.2478$KK.1294
@trnddc08:

Al Bundy wrote:
I have a relatively new metal exterior door that was thrown in by a
previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house since it
looks new and has only factory primer on it.

Anyway, being thrown in, it is not in straight. Not bad but not
straight. I really should have taken it out and put it back in
before I redid the inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...

Problem is there is 0 clearance at one end (actually 0 since it
scrapes) of the door on the bottom with the threshhold. At the
other end of the bottom there is a gap. Enough to see visable light
as well as considerable cold air in the winter.

Don't cut the door. Check the threshold piece...many are made so they
can be raised/lowered/tilted with integral bolts.

Nope. Not this one. Minimum cost I assume because of what I mentioned:

...door that was thrown in by a
previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house...


The door should
close against the raised part of the threshold and against a magnetic
gasket so that air/light doesn't come through.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-instal...lass-entry-sys
tems--bg-1284494.html

"Pat" wrote in
:

Sometimes a door will sag a little with just short screws thru the
hinge into the jamb. I like to take out one of the screws in the top
hinge and replace it with a longer one that penetrates the 2X.

Yea, so do I :-)

This
will usually suck the door up off the jamb.


I mentioned:

A level on frame of the vertical hinge side shows it's off which
explains the bottom of the door issue.

This is the primary, if not only, cause. Maybe I will mess with it a bit
more. Not sure if I tried losening the bottom one before torquing the
top one. But I need to get some space under there to put either the
proper insulating strip that came with the door (which I don't have) or
a door shoe. Either way. I need more space than what's even on the gap
side now.

Thanks for the reply.

"Pat" wrote in
:

Sometimes a door will sag a little with just short screws thru the
hinge into the jamb. I like to take out one of the screws in the top
hinge and replace it with a longer one that penetrates the 2X. This
will usually suck the door up off the jamb.




Checked it out today again. I had put some longer screws in but not 2 1/2-
3"ers. Have plenty of drywall screws that size around but don't like to use
high torque with that length since the thin necks can snap.

So while out I picked up some 3" #10. Threw a couple in the top hinge and
it did pick it up off the bottom to stop the scraping. Still not enough
clearance to get any kind of weatherstripping in there to work. Will just
have to find and make do with some kind of sweep/rubber that mounts to the
outside of the door.

Thanks for urging revisiting it.