The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
Any advise is appreciated.

kstar wrote:
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
Any advise is appreciated.

Correction that's 6" white IPS PVC. What I am doing is replacing clay
pipes that have developed a leak. The whole thing is complicated by
the number of exits from the house on this run and a chipmunk that has
created a cavity under part of the pipe. . There are 3 cast iron
exits within 12 feet. It is a septic conversion. Would also like to
ask about fitting all the connections together. I bought rubber donuts
that will convert the 2" and 3" cast iron to 4" plastic. And I have a
4" to 4" rubber ring for the 4" cast iron. It seems like the only way
to make this work is to make one connection at a time starting from the
clay to PVC connection. Plan is to:
Dry fit and mark the pipe to the first connection to make sure it will
fit.
Disconnect and install the donut on the first connection so that it is
back far enough to not interfere with the putting the last PVC piece
in place.
Then connect the PV to clay (rubber boot) and glue my way to the first
connection off a PVC T connector.
Finally pounding the donut into the PVC. Then repeat to the next
connection.
Having difficulty imagining how to make sure it all fits correctly.
Using cross marks at the connectors will help on the PVC. But the clay
to pvc connection will be harder to mark and get correct. Any
corrections to the above or other ideas would be helplful.

I am having difficulty following your post.

Are you sure about 6" pipe? Schools and office buildings and
cities have 6" runs, but they would be rare in residential.

White PVC is the norm. Green is usually light weight drainage
pipe or really heavy pressure pipe with O ring seals.

Fernco or Mission couplings would be my choice for tying onto the
cast iron stub outs. These are made with different diameter ends
to transition from cast to clay or whatever and to change
diameters. Establish the fittings on the cast iron stub outs
first, cut the pipe runs as required. Make sure you have a clean
out at the head end of the pipe so you can rooter through the main
line and catch all the stubs outs.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"kstar" wrote in message
oups.com...
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core.
I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white
PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the
DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The
building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But
is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually
used.
Any advise is appreciated.

Thanks for the post. Yes it is 6". I have it exposed and it matches
size with the 6" PVC. The donuts I referred to are Fernco. The 4" to
4" connector is a Pipeconx and has two metal straps at each end to seal
the connection so I am OK there.
Question: If I start at the cast iron and work to the T won't I have
trouble fitting into the T and making sure I don't change the position
and grade of the 6" line. The problem with the leak started because
there is a low spot in the line at the connections. I want to make
sure I don't recreate the problem.

Diagram
-- I I I
6" ============== each = is 1 foot
Low spot

DanG wrote:
I am having difficulty following your post.

Are you sure about 6" pipe? Schools and office buildings and
cities have 6" runs, but they would be rare in residential.

White PVC is the norm. Green is usually light weight drainage
pipe or really heavy pressure pipe with O ring seals.

Fernco or Mission couplings would be my choice for tying onto the
cast iron stub outs. These are made with different diameter ends
to transition from cast to clay or whatever and to change
diameters. Establish the fittings on the cast iron stub outs
first, cut the pipe runs as required. Make sure you have a clean
out at the head end of the pipe so you can rooter through the main
line and catch all the stubs outs.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"kstar" wrote in message
oups.com...
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core.
I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white
PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the
DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The
building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But
is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually
used.
Any advise is appreciated.

I'm sure you will live to regret your decision.

Why not tear up and replace the whole thing while you doing the
hatchet job.





On 23 Sep 2006 05:29:31 -0700, "kstar" wrote:


kstar wrote:
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
Any advise is appreciated.

Correction that's 6" white IPS PVC. What I am doing is replacing clay
pipes that have developed a leak. The whole thing is complicated by
the number of exits from the house on this run and a chipmunk that has
created a cavity under part of the pipe. . There are 3 cast iron
exits within 12 feet. It is a septic conversion. Would also like to
ask about fitting all the connections together. I bought rubber donuts
that will convert the 2" and 3" cast iron to 4" plastic. And I have a
4" to 4" rubber ring for the 4" cast iron. It seems like the only way
to make this work is to make one connection at a time starting from the
clay to PVC connection. Plan is to:
Dry fit and mark the pipe to the first connection to make sure it will
fit.
Disconnect and install the donut on the first connection so that it is
back far enough to not interfere with the putting the last PVC piece
in place.
Then connect the PV to clay (rubber boot) and glue my way to the first
connection off a PVC T connector.
Finally pounding the donut into the PVC. Then repeat to the next
connection.
Having difficulty imagining how to make sure it all fits correctly.
Using cross marks at the connectors will help on the PVC. But the clay
to pvc connection will be harder to mark and get correct. Any
corrections to the above or other ideas would be helplful.

Line runs as diagrammed behind the house (this was a septic conversion
in the '70's)
makes a turn at the house corner goes 15' concrete pad and then 80+'
to the street at 10' to 12'. Two other house lines combine with the
line somewhere in the front of the house.
Don't want to tacke that. Just want to fix the problem.

DK wrote:
I'm sure you will live to regret your decision.

Why not tear up and replace the whole thing while you doing the
hatchet job.





On 23 Sep 2006 05:29:31 -0700, "kstar" wrote:


kstar wrote:
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
Any advise is appreciated.

Correction that's 6" white IPS PVC. What I am doing is replacing clay
pipes that have developed a leak. The whole thing is complicated by
the number of exits from the house on this run and a chipmunk that has
created a cavity under part of the pipe. . There are 3 cast iron
exits within 12 feet. It is a septic conversion. Would also like to
ask about fitting all the connections together. I bought rubber donuts
that will convert the 2" and 3" cast iron to 4" plastic. And I have a
4" to 4" rubber ring for the 4" cast iron. It seems like the only way
to make this work is to make one connection at a time starting from the
clay to PVC connection. Plan is to:
Dry fit and mark the pipe to the first connection to make sure it will
fit.
Disconnect and install the donut on the first connection so that it is
back far enough to not interfere with the putting the last PVC piece
in place.
Then connect the PV to clay (rubber boot) and glue my way to the first
connection off a PVC T connector.
Finally pounding the donut into the PVC. Then repeat to the next
connection.
Having difficulty imagining how to make sure it all fits correctly.
Using cross marks at the connectors will help on the PVC. But the clay
to pvc connection will be harder to mark and get correct. Any
corrections to the above or other ideas would be helplful.

I can see a 3 inch line coming thru the foundation, but after that
you should NOT have anything less than a 4 inch line going to the city
service hookup.

Otherwise you are talking temporary fixes. But that's okay, as long
as you know that you will be revisiting the problem again in a year or
two.




On 23 Sep 2006 07:36:08 -0700, "kstar" wrote:

Line runs as diagrammed behind the house (this was a septic conversion
in the '70's)
makes a turn at the house corner goes 15' concrete pad and then 80+'
to the street at 10' to 12'. Two other house lines combine with the
line somewhere in the front of the house.
Don't want to tacke that. Just want to fix the problem.

DK wrote:
I'm sure you will live to regret your decision.

Why not tear up and replace the whole thing while you doing the
hatchet job.





On 23 Sep 2006 05:29:31 -0700, "kstar" wrote:


kstar wrote:
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
Any advise is appreciated.

Correction that's 6" white IPS PVC. What I am doing is replacing clay
pipes that have developed a leak. The whole thing is complicated by
the number of exits from the house on this run and a chipmunk that has
created a cavity under part of the pipe. . There are 3 cast iron
exits within 12 feet. It is a septic conversion. Would also like to
ask about fitting all the connections together. I bought rubber donuts
that will convert the 2" and 3" cast iron to 4" plastic. And I have a
4" to 4" rubber ring for the 4" cast iron. It seems like the only way
to make this work is to make one connection at a time starting from the
clay to PVC connection. Plan is to:
Dry fit and mark the pipe to the first connection to make sure it will
fit.
Disconnect and install the donut on the first connection so that it is
back far enough to not interfere with the putting the last PVC piece
in place.
Then connect the PV to clay (rubber boot) and glue my way to the first
connection off a PVC T connector.
Finally pounding the donut into the PVC. Then repeat to the next
connection.
Having difficulty imagining how to make sure it all fits correctly.
Using cross marks at the connectors will help on the PVC. But the clay
to pvc connection will be harder to mark and get correct. Any
corrections to the above or other ideas would be helplful.

Really, you should just consider yourself the working head of a
roto-rooter tool.

You are going in at the new clean out trap either right next to the
foundation or possible just inside, and heading for the street
connection. You don't want to run into sharp corners or transitions
before you get there. If you do run nto rubber or roots, you want to
chew right thru it and keep on going..

That's what it is all about.







On Sat, 23 Sep 2006 11:52:34 -0500, DK wrote:


I can see a 3 inch line coming thru the foundation, but after that
you should NOT have anything less than a 4 inch line going to the city
service hookup.

Otherwise you are talking temporary fixes. But that's okay, as long
as you know that you will be revisiting the problem again in a year or
two.




On 23 Sep 2006 07:36:08 -0700, "kstar" wrote:

Line runs as diagrammed behind the house (this was a septic conversion
in the '70's)
makes a turn at the house corner goes 15' concrete pad and then 80+'
to the street at 10' to 12'. Two other house lines combine with the
line somewhere in the front of the house.
Don't want to tacke that. Just want to fix the problem.

DK wrote:
I'm sure you will live to regret your decision.

Why not tear up and replace the whole thing while you doing the
hatchet job.





On 23 Sep 2006 05:29:31 -0700, "kstar" wrote:


kstar wrote:
The local 'big box' has 6' white IPS PVC DWV with cellular core. I've
done a little research and it is unclear if I can use the white PVC for
an outside replacement of the 6" Clay pipe. The codes on the DWV pipe
indicate it is F-891-00, schedule 40, NSF, and JM 30/35. The building
department for the city has told me I can use schedule 40. But is the
white OK for US outside applications? I know green is usually used.
Any advise is appreciated.

Correction that's 6" white IPS PVC. What I am doing is replacing clay
pipes that have developed a leak. The whole thing is complicated by
the number of exits from the house on this run and a chipmunk that has
created a cavity under part of the pipe. . There are 3 cast iron
exits within 12 feet. It is a septic conversion. Would also like to
ask about fitting all the connections together. I bought rubber donuts
that will convert the 2" and 3" cast iron to 4" plastic. And I have a
4" to 4" rubber ring for the 4" cast iron. It seems like the only way
to make this work is to make one connection at a time starting from the
clay to PVC connection. Plan is to:
Dry fit and mark the pipe to the first connection to make sure it will
fit.
Disconnect and install the donut on the first connection so that it is
back far enough to not interfere with the putting the last PVC piece
in place.
Then connect the PV to clay (rubber boot) and glue my way to the first
connection off a PVC T connector.
Finally pounding the donut into the PVC. Then repeat to the next
connection.
Having difficulty imagining how to make sure it all fits correctly.
Using cross marks at the connectors will help on the PVC. But the clay
to pvc connection will be harder to mark and get correct. Any
corrections to the above or other ideas would be helplful.

On 2006-09-23, kstar wrote:

Thanks for the post. Yes it is 6". I have it exposed and it matches
size with the 6" PVC.

When you say "it" is exposed, you mean the existing clay pipe? 6"
clay pipe is quite a big bigger in outer diameter than 6" Schedule 40
pipe, so if the outer diameters match, then it is probably 5" clay
pipe.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne. The clay pipe is exposed and the diameter is bigger than
the 6 in. PVC and it matches the conversion boot for 6" clay to 6"
PVC.

Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2006-09-23, kstar wrote:

Thanks for the post. Yes it is 6". I have it exposed and it matches
size with the 6" PVC.

When you say "it" is exposed, you mean the existing clay pipe? 6"
clay pipe is quite a big bigger in outer diameter than 6" Schedule 40
pipe, so if the outer diameters match, then it is probably 5" clay
pipe.

Cheers, Wayne

4 inch line for a residence drains better the water moves the solids
along better