Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

HomeDecoy wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.

HomeDecoy wrote:
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.

Ok, then Sevin Dust is indeed what you want. It is regularly used in
agriculture.

On 15 Sep 2006 10:23:01 -0700, "HomeDecoy"
wrote:

wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


Just roto-till it, and plant beans. They won't come back
to that spot again.

"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

In article , "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
roups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

Horse-puckey. Sevin is perfectly safe when used as directed.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
t...
In article , "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:
"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
groups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want
to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

Horse-puckey. Sevin is perfectly safe when used as directed.

Horse-puckey. No substance can be considered safe in or around food unless
it is tested on humans. You may find one or two instances of that happening,
but they were rare, and the practice is now illegal.

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT
want to use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None
of them ever has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not
possible.

The only pesticide I can think of that has never been shown to be harmful to
humans in any concentration (less than 100%, and at that level people do die
from being smothered) is DDT. You can get it if you try hard enough.

On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 14:56:41 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
"HeyBub" quickly quoth:

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT
want to use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None
of them ever has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not
possible.

The only pesticide I can think of that has never been shown to be harmful to
humans in any concentration (less than 100%, and at that level people do die
from being smothered) is DDT. You can get it if you try hard enough.

RIGHT! Go back and look at the research done since the 60s. It was
safer than many of the current pesticides. Rachel Carson's _Silent
Spring_ has been found to be totally wrong but before that as a
result, world governments had banned a perfectly harmless product.

Nearly three million people die of malaria each year. I hope she can
sleep nights.

I used chlordane, etc. safely for years, too. Just pay attention to
the instructions and bury what you need to so pets don't get into it.
Billions of dollars worth of homes have been lost to termites since it
was banned.


--
Real freedom lies in wildness, not in civilization.
-- Charles Lindbergh

HeyBub wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT
want to use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None
of them ever has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not
possible.

The only pesticide I can think of that has never been shown to be harmful to
humans in any concentration (less than 100%, and at that level people do die
from being smothered) is DDT.

Based upon Michael Crichton's "State of Fear" study, no doubt.

"The EPA estimates with "medium" confidence (due to "shorter duration
than desired" of the studies) based mainly on liver toxicity in rats,
that no non-carcinogenic effect will be seen at an oral exposure of
less than 5 x10^-4 mg/kg-day as a conservative limit including a
10-fold safety factor for generalizing from rats to humans, and another
10-fold factor to account for human subpopulations which may be
exceptionally
sensitive."http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0147.htm#conoral

"Similarly, the EPA classifies DDT as class B2, a probable human
carcinogen, based on observed carcinogenicity in animals, i.e. tumors
(generally of the liver) in seven studies in various mouse strains and
three studies in rats, and on structural similarity to other
carcinogens such as DDE, DDD, dicofol, and
chlorobenzilate."http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0147.htm#woe

"The risk factor for oral ingestion is estimated at 3.4x10^-1 per
mg/kg-day or 9.7x10^-6 per ug/L for drinking water, which translates
into a cancer risk of 1 in 10,000 for 10 ug/L, 1 in 100,000 for 1 ug/L,
or 1 in 1,000,000 for 0.1 ug/L; the risk factor for inhalation is
estimated at 9.7x10^-5 per ug/m^3, which translates into a cancer risk
of 1 in 10,000 for 1 ug/m^3, 1 in 100,000 for 0.1 ug/m^3, or 1 in
1,000,000 for 0.01
"ug/m^3."http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0147.htm#quainhal

You can interpret that as "never been shown to be harmful to humans in
any concentration" if you like, but then lots of people believe that
tobacco has "never been shown to be harmful to humans in any
concentration" on very similar evidence.

On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 17:51:04 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"JoeSpareBedroom" quickly quoth:

"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
roups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

Grab a copy of Stossel's new book. He cites studies which show that
people are more apt to be poisoned by nature's own pesticides than by
any man-made artificials. http://tinyurl.com/rc93k

But I'm against killing bees. Using water to drive them out is a much
better play, IMO.


--
Real freedom lies in wildness, not in civilization.
-- Charles Lindbergh

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 17:51:04 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"JoeSpareBedroom" quickly quoth:

"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
groups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want
to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

Grab a copy of Stossel's new book. He cites studies which show that
people are more apt to be poisoned by nature's own pesticides than by
any man-made artificials. http://tinyurl.com/rc93k

Stossel!??! He's been discredited many times over for completely twisting
this kind of information.

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

Another factor: various plants pick up toxins in different amounts.
There are lists around the web from reliable folks like the local ag
stations, etc. about which food plants are more likely to carry toxins
that were in the soil. I'll see if I can find any to post.

"z" wrote in message
oups.com...

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
wrote:
Water? Even water is a chemical, technically. What aspect of
"chemicals" don't you want? Use Sevin dust. It breaks down nicely
after a little while.

Haha true. I guess I'm looking for something that can go in the ground
but not cause long-term damage to the soil so that we can grow things
there again.


If you're planning on growing edibles in that area, then you do NOT want
to
use ANY so-called "safe" or "relatively safe" pesticide. None of them
ever
has been or ever will be shown to be safe. It is not possible.

Another factor: various plants pick up toxins in different amounts.
There are lists around the web from reliable folks like the local ag
stations, etc. about which food plants are more likely to carry toxins
that were in the soil. I'll see if I can find any to post.


Be prepared to respond to a couple of knuckleheads who believe you can wash
off systemics. I hope you have lots of patience. :-)

z wrote:

Another factor: various plants pick up toxins in different amounts.
There are lists around the web from reliable folks like the local ag
stations, etc. about which food plants are more likely to carry toxins
that were in the soil. I'll see if I can find any to post.

OK, here it is:
"Buy these items organic as often as possible
What: Apples, bell peppers, celery, cherries, imported grapes,
nectarines, peaches, pears, potatoes, red raspberries, spinach, and
strawberries.
Why: The U.S. Department of Agriculture's own lab testing reveals
that even after washing, some fruits and vegetables consistently carry
much higher levels of pesticide residue than others. Based on an
analysis of more than 100,000 U.S. government pesticide test results,
researchers at the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a research and
advocacy organization based in Washington, D.C., have developed the
"dirty dozen" fruits and vegetables, above, that they say you
should always buy organic if possible because their conventionally
grown counterparts tend to be laden with pesticides. Among fruits,
nectarines had the highest percentage testing positive for pesticide
residue. Peaches and red raspberries had the most pesticides (nine) on
a single sample. Among vegetables, celery and spinach most often
carried pesticides, with spinach having the highest number (10) on a
single sample. (For more information on pesticide levels for other
types of produce, go to www.foodnews.org.)

Buy these items organic if price is no object
What: Asparagus, avocados, bananas, broccoli, cauliflower, sweet corn,
kiwi, mangos, onions, papaya, pineapples, and sweet peas.
Why: Multiple pesticide residues are, in general, rarely found on
conventionally grown versions of these fruits and vegetables, according
to research by the EWG. So if you're buying organic only for health
reasons, you may not want to pay 22 percent extra for organic bananas,
let alone more than 150 percent for organic asparagus--the premiums we
found in our price survey of several New York City area supermarkets.

(similar list
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/13737389/page/2/)

Try lime that you spread on your yard. This has sometimes worked for me.

"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 17:46:39 GMT, "Jeff" wrote:

Try lime that you spread on your yard. This has sometimes worked for
me.

"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
roups.com...
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the
ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside
the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE
they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I
can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't
return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)



Ground nesting wasps are a big deal in Hawaii. We can actually call
our State Department of Heath, Vector Control, and those people will
come over and destroy that nest. I'd suggest you be sure about the
nest because wasps can sting multiple times. Bees are one time and
then they die but wasps keep their stingers. Anaphylactic shock etc.
comes to mind. Of course I hope I am wrong about your nest.

aloha,
beans
--smithfarms.com
farmers of pure kona
roast beans to kona to email

HomeDecoy wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

Yellowjackets/ground-wasps don't use the same nest year-to-year, at
least not here in the northeast.

D

In daylight use 2 by 4 or other long pole to EXACTLY mark the
entrance...

Come back at NIGHT, use NO lights at all! They will instantly go after
lights

Pour gasoline into bucket, approach quietly dump gasoline quickly down
hole. This kills them instantly!

Now light the hole if you want it will burn off the gasoline.

If you REA:LLY concerned a few days later dig up the nest and
surrounding soil dump in non garden area.

or leave that area for flowers only for a few years

avoid the hole for a few days straglers who didnt make it home the
night of the disaster will fly around a bit then go away

On 15 Sep 2006 11:09:02 -0700, "
wrote:

In daylight use 2 by 4 or other long pole to EXACTLY mark the
entrance...

Come back at NIGHT, use NO lights at all! They will instantly go after
lights

Pour gasoline into bucket, approach quietly dump gasoline quickly down
hole. This kills them instantly!

Now light the hole if you want it will burn off the gasoline.

Light it? You have to be kidding. Do you use this method on moles too?

Do you know where the hole goes or how big it is? What would happen
if your hole was close or hooked up to a foundation? BOOM, instant
headache.

In daylight use 2 by 4 or other long pole to EXACTLY mark the
entrance...

Come back at NIGHT, use NO lights at all! They will instantly go after
lights

Pour gasoline into bucket, approach quietly dump gasoline quickly down
hole. This kills them instantly!

Now light the hole if you want it will burn off the gasoline.

If you REA:LLY concerned a few days later dig up the nest and
surrounding soil dump in non garden area.

or leave that area for flowers only for a few years

avoid the hole for a few days straglers who didnt make it home the
night of the disaster will fly around a bit then go away

Use plain old cheep bleach---just poor it in the hole & forget it. I
get it at the $ store























wrote:
HomeDecoy wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

Yellowjackets/ground-wasps don't use the same nest year-to-year, at
least not here in the northeast.

D

In article .com,
says...
Use plain old cheep bleach---just poor it in the hole & forget it. I
get it at the $ store


Bleach can sterilize the soil in the area for awhile creating a
vegetation dead zone. The sevin dust at night is probably the
best/safest home owner remedy suggested so far....
--
Lar

to email...get rid of the BUGS

In article .com, "HomeDecoy" wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?

Option 1: Sevin dust.

Option 2: a pint of gasoline and a match. Stand back a safe distance and throw
lit matches at the hole until it ignites. Bye-bye, bees.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On 15 Sep 2006 10:07:10 -0700, "HomeDecoy"
wrote:

Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)


Remember to always follow directions/codes/common sense:

I had yellow jackets, a lot, nested under some mulch. I used some
carpenter bee powder (I had for the carpenter bees that attack my
deck), and dusted their enterence. The Yellow Jackets swarmed for a
while and when I checked back later, I found many dead ones. I then
dusted again for safe measure.

This is what I did, not a how-to for you.

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com

On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 14:50:16 -0400, Tom The Great
wrote:

On 15 Sep 2006 10:07:10 -0700, "HomeDecoy"
wrote:

Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)


Remember to always follow directions/codes/common sense:

I had yellow jackets, a lot, nested under some mulch. I used some
carpenter bee powder (I had for the carpenter bees that attack my
deck), and dusted their enterence. The Yellow Jackets swarmed for a
while and when I checked back later, I found many dead ones. I then

You know, I was reading this, with CSI Miami in the background, and I
turned to look at the TV, and they were in an airboat after a plane
crash or something, and the blond guy spotted a survivor, and I
thought, "One of the yellow jackets survived!"

I have to learn to compartmentalize.

dusted again for safe measure.

This is what I did, not a how-to for you.

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com

If you take a clear plastic or glass bowl, place it over their hole and
press it tightly to the ground, so they can't walk under the edge, put a
weight of some sort on it to keep it in place, they will starve to death. Do
this at night when they've all gone back into the nest and are not active.
As long as they can see sunlight, they don't dig themselves a new exit hole


"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

RBM (remove this) wrote:
If you take a clear plastic or glass bowl, place it over their hole and
press it tightly to the ground, so they can't walk under the edge, put a
weight of some sort on it to keep it in place, they will starve to death. Do
this at night when they've all gone back into the nest and are not active.
As long as they can see sunlight, they don't dig themselves a new exit hole



will this work for rodents or just insects?

It works on yellow jackets. I think rodents have a few more brain cells


"RayV" wrote in message
ps.com...

RBM (remove this) wrote:
If you take a clear plastic or glass bowl, place it over their hole and
press it tightly to the ground, so they can't walk under the edge, put a
weight of some sort on it to keep it in place, they will starve to death.
Do
this at night when they've all gone back into the nest and are not
active.
As long as they can see sunlight, they don't dig themselves a new exit
hole



will this work for rodents or just insects?

On Sat, 16 Sep 2006 07:07:19 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

It works on yellow jackets. I think rodents have a few more brain cells

I was going to say the same thing, but you have a lot more experience
than I.

Still, mice and maybe other rodents are very smart. When too many
mice got killed on my second floor, they stopped coming up here. They
routinely change the places they go to avoid dangers. The Tom and
Jerry cartoons probably aren't far off. Of course they use lab-size
rats in mazes and time them, and watch them get better each time they
run the maze. I guess they can change the maze and the rat is still
faster for having trained in the other maze. Aren't beavers and
groundhogs rodents. They live in society and share responsibilities.
One does't think of moles as being smart, but maybe they are too.


I was amazed however when a guy in the old fraternity house we lived
in threw a shoe or boot at a mouse, hit it, and killed it. I didn't
think they were killed that easily. Then he took it to the cat, which
may have been sleeping. The cat gradually opened its eyes, looked for
a second or two at the mouse, and then zip, quickly used its paw to
scoop it into his mouth. Only the tail was out of his mouth.

"RayV" wrote in message
ups.com...

RBM (remove this) wrote:
If you take a clear plastic or glass bowl, place it over their hole and
press it tightly to the ground, so they can't walk under the edge, put a
weight of some sort on it to keep it in place, they will starve to death.
Do
this at night when they've all gone back into the nest and are not
active.
As long as they can see sunlight, they don't dig themselves a new exit
hole



will this work for rodents or just insects?

Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the
ground? So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right
inside the nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want
to make SURE they don't come back.

I had the problem. They were too far down for hardware store sprays. I
finally called a pro, and I'm glad I did.

Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I
can maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?

If you can wait for frost, that will work.

You probably have yellow jackets rather than bees. These critters all
die over the winter, except for a queen that has probably flown on to a
new spot. Poisoning the nest now won't do much good.

http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC2510.htm has a nice article.



HomeDecoy wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

DLC wrote:
You probably have yellow jackets rather than bees. These critters all
die over the winter, except for a queen that has probably flown on to a
new spot. Poisoning the nest now won't do much good.

http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC2510.htm has a nice article.




Um, your own link recommends poisoning them with Sevin.

HomeDecoy wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

Gardens need bees.

On 15 Sep 2006 10:07:10 -0700, "HomeDecoy"
wrote:

Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

Just build a nice hot fire on top of the nest. Get some paper and
wood and let her burn. Ashes will add useful nutrients to your soil,
and no chemicals will be used. If you live in the city where fires
are not allowed, build a nice hot fire in your charcoal grill and dump
the hot coals in garden.

Mark

Sevin dust is both the safest and also particularly toxic to bees. It
breaks down fairly quickly, especially if it rains, so you have to reapply
every several months.

Ignore the idiots who say it isn't safe. It is. Every farmer uses Sevin
and it is used on just about every crop. Very extensively studied and shown
to be 100% harmless to humans and other mammals. In fact, it's also
recommended for outdoor animals to control fleas and ticks, by rubbing it
into their coat. Google for "Sevin safety" or something like that and
you'll see all the research.

However, are you sure you can't just leave them alone? Are they really
harming anything? Depending on what you actually have, they may be harmless
if they are not aggressive. Bees are very beneficial to the environment and
should be left alone if they aren't causing a problem.


"HomeDecoy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Can anyone tell me how to safely get rid of a bees nest in the ground?
So far I've taken a hose and left it going for a bit right inside the
nest. That seemed to cut down on some of them. I want to make SURE they
don't come back.
Winter is coming up so I'm figuring that after the first frost I can
maybe dig the area up and remove the nest or something?
Can anyone suggest anything to kill them or make sure they don't return
without dumping chemicals into the ground? It's right in the garden
that we're hoping to bring back to life. (Previous owners let it go
without tending for 5 years and likely never noticed the bees.)

Unrevealed Source wrote:

Sevin dust is both the safest and also particularly toxic to bees. It
breaks down fairly quickly, especially if it rains, so you have to reapply
every several months.

Ignore the idiots who say it isn't safe. It is. Every farmer uses Sevin
and it is used on just about every crop. Very extensively studied and shown
to be 100% harmless to humans and other mammals. In fact, it's also

Not so.

recommended for outdoor animals to control fleas and ticks, by rubbing it
into their coat. Google for "Sevin safety" or something like that and
you'll see all the research.

Google for "Sevin MSDS".

Norminn wrote:
Unrevealed Source wrote:

Sevin dust is both the safest and also particularly toxic to bees. It
breaks down fairly quickly, especially if it rains, so you have
to reapply every several months.

Ignore the idiots who say it isn't safe. It is. Every farmer uses
Sevin and it is used on just about every crop. Very extensively
studied and shown to be 100% harmless to humans and other mammals. In
fact, it's also

Not so.

It's less dangerous than paint. I read once where someone painted an
elephant (!). It died. If you drink paint, you will suffer. In laboratory
experiments, rats who were force-fed five gallons of Martha Stewart Latex
developed distended stomachs and became lethargic.

Use according to directions and you'll be golden. (or you could accomplish
the same thing by painting yourself orange).

HeyBub wrote:

Norminn wrote:

Unrevealed Source wrote:


Sevin dust is both the safest and also particularly toxic to bees. It
breaks down fairly quickly, especially if it rains, so you have
to reapply every several months.

Ignore the idiots who say it isn't safe. It is. Every farmer uses
Sevin and it is used on just about every crop. Very extensively
studied and shown to be 100% harmless to humans and other mammals. In
fact, it's also

Not so.


It's less dangerous than paint. I read once where someone painted an
elephant (!). It died. If you drink paint, you will suffer. In laboratory
experiments, rats who were force-fed five gallons of Martha Stewart Latex
developed distended stomachs and became lethargic.

Use according to directions and you'll be golden. (or you could accomplish
the same thing by painting yourself orange).


Sevin, for one thing, is terratogenic. May be less toxic than some
stuff, but genes count )