I know this probably a stupid question, but I'm a single mom who needs
to put a roof on an outdoor shed. Roofers wanted $700. I bought all the
supplies for less than $80.

Reading the roofing books I have an idea of how to do this. And my
18-year-old son is going to help.

But, we went work to put out chalk lines and I need help.

I bought an irwin chalk line set at the hardware store. My first
mistake was cutting the line off the hook, not realizing it needed to
be tied there.

Then, I realized the line has no chalk on it. I do have a blue bottle
of chalk. My son found a sliding lid on the chalk reel. He thinks the
chalk should be squirted into this compartment. It makes sense. But I
was hoping someone could confirm. Also, how much do you put in -- when
do you stop.

Yes, I know, a paranoid, duh, question, but when you have no idea....
tina

wrote:

I bought an irwin chalk line set at the hardware store. My first
mistake was cutting the line off the hook, not realizing it needed
to be tied there.

It doesn't *have* to be there, just makes it easy to hook over a nail
when you are working alone and don't have anyone to hold the end.
______________

Then, I realized the line has no chalk on it. I do have a blue
bottle of chalk. My son found a sliding lid on the chalk reel. He
thinks the chalk should be squirted into this compartment. It makes
sense. But I was hoping someone could confirm. Also, how much do
you put in -- when do you stop.

Yes, put chalk in the reel. The amount isn't written in stone but you
might as well put in as much as you can but not so much as to make it
difficult to reel/unreel the string. You can always add more.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:

Yes, put chalk in the reel. The amount isn't written in stone but you
might as well put in as much as you can but not so much as to make it
difficult to reel/unreel the string. You can always add more.

--

dadiOH

Thanks so much for the help. It seemed the thing to go, but when you
aren't sure... Anyway, works perfectly now. Guess that means we have to
get to work (just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

Thanks again!
tina

wrote in message
oups.com...

dadiOH wrote:

Yes, put chalk in the reel. The amount isn't written in stone but you
might as well put in as much as you can but not so much as to make it
difficult to reel/unreel the string. You can always add more.

--

dadiOH

Thanks so much for the help. It seemed the thing to go, but when you
aren't sure... Anyway, works perfectly now. Guess that means we have to
get to work (just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

Thanks again!
tina

Hate to smack a tired woman, BUT,

You really don't need a chalk line if you follow the lines of the old
shingles.

--
Colbyt
One picture can be worth a 1000 words.
Post yours at www.ImageGenie.net for FREE.

wrote:
I know this probably a stupid question, but I'm a single mom who needs
to put a roof on an outdoor shed. Roofers wanted $700. I bought all the
supplies for less than $80.

Reading the roofing books I have an idea of how to do this. And my
18-year-old son is going to help.

But, we went work to put out chalk lines and I need help.

I bought an irwin chalk line set at the hardware store. My first
mistake was cutting the line off the hook, not realizing it needed to
be tied there.

Then, I realized the line has no chalk on it. I do have a blue bottle
of chalk. My son found a sliding lid on the chalk reel. He thinks the
chalk should be squirted into this compartment. It makes sense. But I
was hoping someone could confirm. Also, how much do you put in -- when
do you stop.

Yes, I know, a paranoid, duh, question, but when you have no idea....
tina

Others have explained the chalk line.

Instructions (and very good ones) are printed on every shingle bundle.
You should be able to do a professional job just by following those
instructions.

Harry K

Colbyt wrote:

You really don't need a chalk line if you follow the lines of the old
shingles.

True, but even pros will run a chalk line now and then on some jobs,
like around dormers. Besides, for the beginner, a chalk line helps to
buld enough confidence to discard it after a few squares are down. And
don't forget the roof jacks and planks and other safety related items.
Good luck.

Joe

Yes, that's a very physically demanding job. You've got my respect.
Can you hire any teenage boys to help? They are the ones with energy.
Sometimes no direction, but lots of energy.

Years ago, a friend showed me that on the long flat edge of the
shingle is a cut. You find that cut, and that's where the short edge
of the next shingle lines up.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

wrote in message
oups.com...


Thanks so much for the help. It seemed the thing to go, but when you
aren't sure... Anyway, works perfectly now. Guess that means we have
to
get to work (just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from
the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

Thanks again!
tina

"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...

Colbyt wrote:

You really don't need a chalk line if you follow the lines of the old
shingles.

True, but even pros will run a chalk line now and then on some jobs,
like around dormers. Besides, for the beginner, a chalk line helps to
buld enough confidence to discard it after a few squares are down. And
don't forget the roof jacks and planks and other safety related items.
Good luck.

1. Based on the price she paid for the supplies (unless she got a hell of a
deal on some closeouts or something), this is a small shed. Probably not big
enough to need roof jacks and such.

2. Once you tear off the old shingles, and put down new felt, there aren't
any old shingle lines to follow. Roofing is enough of a PITA that you want
to do it as little as possible. And that means a tearoff, no matter what
code says. If you lay the felt carefully, you can use the lines on that. For
a newbie, snapping a line every 3rd course or so isn't a bad idea, and only
takes a few minutes. Nothing screams 'amatuer' more loudly than courses that
wander up and down.

aem sends...

wrote:

(just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

If you ever attempt a larger roofing job, seriously consider rooftop
delivery of the shingles and tar paper. The savings in medical bills
alone can make it worthwhile.

My 1st roofing job was a reshingling, and since the original shingles
were aligned about perfectly, I didn't have to lay down chaulk lines.
But when reshingling it's important to overlap, or "butt up," the new
shingles correctly over the old ones to minimize the amount of empty
space each shingle spans and therefore the sag. This is why the
instructions say to cut the starter course of shingles to the same
width as the tab exposure rather than simply nail down whole shingles
with the tabs facing upward. If the overlap is done wrong, the new
shingles will develop a bend where they sag.

My 2nd attempt at roofing was over bare plywood decking, and I had to
redo it since I originally laid down only horizontal chaulk lines but
not vertical ones. The alignment looked fine to me while I was on the
roof, but from the ground it was a completely different matter. So
chaulk lines are a good idea.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Yes, that's a very physically demanding job. You've got my respect.
Can you hire any teenage boys to help? They are the ones with energy.
Sometimes no direction, but lots of energy.

Years ago, a friend showed me that on the long flat edge of the
shingle is a cut. You find that cut, and that's where the short edge
of the next shingle lines up.



That depends on the type of shingles being used. Three-tabs and "shangles"
(those three-tab shingles designed to look like shakes) it is important to
line the shingles up correctly so that the cutouts line up every other row.
On architectural/dimensional shingles, it doesn't really matter.

wrote:
wrote:

(just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

If you ever attempt a larger roofing job, seriously consider rooftop
delivery of the shingles and tar paper. The savings in medical bills
alone can make it worthwhile.

My 1st roofing job was a reshingling, and since the original shingles
were aligned about perfectly, I didn't have to lay down chaulk lines.
But when reshingling it's important to overlap, or "butt up," the new
shingles correctly over the old ones to minimize the amount of empty
space each shingle spans and therefore the sag. This is why the
instructions say to cut the starter course of shingles to the same
width as the tab exposure rather than simply nail down whole shingles
with the tabs facing upward. If the overlap is done wrong, the new
shingles will develop a bend where they sag.

My 2nd attempt at roofing was over bare plywood decking, and I had to
redo it since I originally laid down only horizontal chaulk lines but
not vertical ones. The alignment looked fine to me while I was on the
roof, but from the ground it was a completely different matter. So
chaulk lines are a good idea.

Why would one ever put down vertical chalk lines?
If the alignment of slots is off, the installer is
cutting the starter shingle for each row
incorrectly. Starters should always be cut at the
slot or midway between slots (unless one is into
some fancy pattern. Anyway, the wrapping on each
bundle gives all the instructions.

It is a shed so there should be no dormers, just a
straight shot.

wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
Colbyt wrote:

You really don't need a chalk line if you follow the lines of the old
shingles.
True, but even pros will run a chalk line now and then on some jobs,
like around dormers. Besides, for the beginner, a chalk line helps to
buld enough confidence to discard it after a few squares are down. And
don't forget the roof jacks and planks and other safety related items.
Good luck.

1. Based on the price she paid for the supplies (unless she got a hell of a
deal on some closeouts or something), this is a small shed. Probably not big
enough to need roof jacks and such.

2. Once you tear off the old shingles, and put down new felt, there aren't
any old shingle lines to follow. Roofing is enough of a PITA that you want
to do it as little as possible. And that means a tearoff, no matter what
code says. If you lay the felt carefully, you can use the lines on that. For
a newbie, snapping a line every 3rd course or so isn't a bad idea, and only
takes a few minutes. Nothing screams 'amatuer' more loudly than courses that
wander up and down.

aem sends...


I agree with the last statement. Everything
depends on getting the starter course straight,
and the usually means just following the edge of
roof. After that you just need to be careful. In
most cases just carefully butting each shingle to
the next will result in a straight line. But to
insure parallel courses you can use a stick cut to
the length of the shingle exposure and use that to
measure the exposure at each end of the shingle
before nailing.

George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:
wrote:

(just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

If you ever attempt a larger roofing job, seriously consider rooftop
delivery of the shingles and tar paper. The savings in medical bills
alone can make it worthwhile.

My 1st roofing job was a reshingling, and since the original shingles
were aligned about perfectly, I didn't have to lay down chaulk lines.
But when reshingling it's important to overlap, or "butt up," the new
shingles correctly over the old ones to minimize the amount of empty
space each shingle spans and therefore the sag. This is why the
instructions say to cut the starter course of shingles to the same
width as the tab exposure rather than simply nail down whole shingles
with the tabs facing upward. If the overlap is done wrong, the new
shingles will develop a bend where they sag.

My 2nd attempt at roofing was over bare plywood decking, and I had to
redo it since I originally laid down only horizontal chaulk lines but
not vertical ones. The alignment looked fine to me while I was on the
roof, but from the ground it was a completely different matter. So
chaulk lines are a good idea.

Why would one ever put down vertical chalk lines?
If the alignment of slots is off, the installer is
cutting the starter shingle for each row
incorrectly. Starters should always be cut at the
slot or midway between slots (unless one is into
some fancy pattern. Anyway, the wrapping on each
bundle gives all the instructions.

You get a much nicer look and errors are not as obvious if you use the
shorter offset. Can't recall now if it is 1/4 or 1/3 a tab. Done that
way, the tabs don't line up on every 2nd course. In my opinion, the
mark of an amatuer job is slots lining up straight up the roof.

Harry K

Using a chalk line requires a college degree. Go to your local
university and sign up for "Chalk Line Classes".
In two years for the basic degree or 4 years for the advanced degree,
you will be a chalk line expert.


On 10 Sep 2006 13:20:07 -0700, wrote:

I know this probably a stupid question, but I'm a single mom who needs
to put a roof on an outdoor shed. Roofers wanted $700. I bought all the
supplies for less than $80.

Reading the roofing books I have an idea of how to do this. And my
18-year-old son is going to help.

But, we went work to put out chalk lines and I need help.

I bought an irwin chalk line set at the hardware store. My first
mistake was cutting the line off the hook, not realizing it needed to
be tied there.

Then, I realized the line has no chalk on it. I do have a blue bottle
of chalk. My son found a sliding lid on the chalk reel. He thinks the
chalk should be squirted into this compartment. It makes sense. But I
was hoping someone could confirm. Also, how much do you put in -- when
do you stop.

Yes, I know, a paranoid, duh, question, but when you have no idea....
tina

Hi, everyone:

Thanks for all the discussion. This is indeed a small shed, 20X14. The
roof is just a simple slanted deck with no valleys or anything else.

I don't know the term for it, But if you took a flat piece of plywood
and then just tilted it up at the long end a bit, that's what we
have....a sloping piece of roof.

The original roof was shingles, but my husband at the time took them
off when they started to leak and replaced it all with felt and roll
roofing. I remember helping at the time and it was a pretty simple job.

However, it started to leak last spring. A few different roofers all
said it had been face-nailed and they were surprised it lasted the 10
years without a problem.

They all said it should be shingled and while one roofer said it should
be all torn off and started over, the other two said it would be easier
to just put shingles on top of the roll roof, which is in good shape,
except, I guess where the nails are allowing water to penetrate.

Tina

Hi, everyone:

Thanks for all the discussion. This is indeed a small shed, 20X14. The
roof is just a simple slanted deck with no valleys or anything else.

I don't know the term for it, But if you took a flat piece of plywood
and then just tilted it up at the long end a bit, that's what we
have....a sloping piece of roof.

The original roof was shingles, but my husband at the time took them
off when they started to leak and replaced it all with felt and roll
roofing. I remember helping at the time and it was a pretty simple job.

However, it started to leak last spring. A few different roofers all
said it had been face-nailed and they were surprised it lasted the 10
years without a problem.

They all said it should be shingled and while one roofer said it should
be all torn off and started over, the other two said it would be easier
to just put shingles on top of the roll roof, which is in good shape,
except, I guess where the nails are allowing water to penetrate.

If it's tilted more than about 1" every two feet, then it's called
(amazingly enough) A "Shed" roof. As opposed to a "gable" roof,
which looks like a monopoly house, or a "gambrel" roof, which
looks like a fisher-price barn.

I don't know why people are recommending shingles, though,
roll roofing should be fine. If I understand correctly,
one just glues down the lower edge, and nails the upper
edge where it will be covered by the next row.
I mean, shingles will work, as long as the roof is tilted
enough (more than 1" in 12) but it seems like more work.

George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:

My 2nd attempt at roofing was over bare plywood decking, and I had to
redo it since I originally laid down only horizontal chaulk lines but
not vertical ones. The alignment looked fine to me while I was on the
roof, but from the ground it was a completely different matter. So
chaulk lines are a good idea.

Why would one ever put down vertical chalk lines?

Because I lack the talent to get the horizontal alignment correct
without them, and the shingles I used were about 1/4" wider than the
originals

TakenEvent wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Yes, that's a very physically demanding job. You've got my respect.
Can you hire any teenage boys to help? They are the ones with energy.
Sometimes no direction, but lots of energy.

Years ago, a friend showed me that on the long flat edge of the
shingle is a cut. You find that cut, and that's where the short edge
of the next shingle lines up.



That depends on the type of shingles being used. Three-tabs and "shangles"
(those three-tab shingles designed to look like shakes) it is important to
line the shingles up correctly so that the cutouts line up every other row.
On architectural/dimensional shingles, it doesn't really matter.




Actually, shingle manufactures suggest that the
cutout line up after more than every other row, to
minimize streaks and rain groove wear. I followed
the instruction on the package and mine line up
every third row. Most roofers in my area follow
that pattern.

wrote:
George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:

My 2nd attempt at roofing was over bare plywood decking, and I had to
redo it since I originally laid down only horizontal chaulk lines but
not vertical ones. The alignment looked fine to me while I was on the
roof, but from the ground it was a completely different matter. So
chaulk lines are a good idea.

Why would one ever put down vertical chalk lines?

Because I lack the talent to get the horizontal alignment correct
without them, and the shingles I used were about 1/4" wider than the
originals

Not to start a discussion, but I don't see how
vertical chalk lines help one align things
horizontally. Normally one aligns a horizontal
thing with a horizontal line. Don't see what the
difference wider shingles would make either,
unless one put them on top of the originals and
then you just align the new shingles by butting
them up to the lower edge of the original shingles.

George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:
George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:

My 2nd attempt at roofing was over bare plywood decking, and I had to
redo it since I originally laid down only horizontal chaulk lines but
not vertical ones. The alignment looked fine to me while I was on the
roof, but from the ground it was a completely different matter. So
chaulk lines are a good idea.

Why would one ever put down vertical chalk lines?

Because I lack the talent to get the horizontal alignment correct
without them, and the shingles I used were about 1/4" wider than the
originals

Not to start a discussion, but I don't see how
vertical chalk lines help one align things
horizontally. Normally one aligns a horizontal
thing with a horizontal line. Don't see what the
difference wider shingles would make either,
unless one put them on top of the originals and
then you just align the new shingles by butting
them up to the lower edge of the original shingles.

Yep. In any case, I prefer to use a shingle hatchet. Well worth the
purchase price even doing just one roof, I just finished 2 sheds and a
2 car garage last summer and never used a chalk line except for the
ridge caps (hip roofs). Slap shingle down, adjust with hatchet twice
to set the exposure ( three times on the course starts for the offset)
nail and done. On a larger roof I would probably do a chalk line up
toward the middle.

Harry K

George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:

Not to start a discussion, but I don't see how
vertical chalk lines help one align things
horizontally.

I don't see how they help one align things vertically. Ask a pilot how
the horizon is used for aligning planes vertically.

Normally one aligns a horizontal
thing with a horizontal line.

For attitude or elevation?

she didn't say it was going over an old roof


"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

wrote in message
oups.com...

dadiOH wrote:

Yes, put chalk in the reel. The amount isn't written in stone but you
might as well put in as much as you can but not so much as to make it
difficult to reel/unreel the string. You can always add more.

--

dadiOH

Thanks so much for the help. It seemed the thing to go, but when you
aren't sure... Anyway, works perfectly now. Guess that means we have to
get to work (just hauling the shingle bundles a hundred yards from the
car and then up to the roof about did me in already this morning,
though).

Thanks again!
tina

Hate to smack a tired woman, BUT,

You really don't need a chalk line if you follow the lines of the old
shingles.

--
Colbyt
One picture can be worth a 1000 words.
Post yours at www.ImageGenie.net for FREE.