I need to patch a 2 inch x 2 feet x 5 feet area of my basement concrete
floor.

I will use the Fast Set Ultra Sakrete, but the web site gives confusing
instructions on how to use it. Some questions:

1. Is this mix thick enough that it can be spread on a slight incline to
drain, or does it seek its own level, like water?

2. There is something in the instructions about water rising, then
evaporating or soaking back into the concrete. What does this mean?

3. There is something about "curing" which is very confusing. The
instructions indicate I should spray the newly laid Sakrete, but it doesn't
say how often.

"Ray" wrote in message

1. Is this mix thick enough that it can be spread on a slight incline to
drain, or does it seek its own level, like water?

You can control the viscosity by the amount of water added. You shuld be
able to slop enough for a basement drain.



2. There is something in the instructions about water rising, then
evaporating or soaking back into the concrete. What does this mean?

When you trowel concrete, water will come to the top. Don't overdo the
finishing. Let he water dry up, don't try to soak it up.


3. There is something about "curing" which is very confusing. The
instructions indicate I should spray the newly laid Sakrete, but it
doesn't say how often.

Curing is a long process. If it dried too fast, it is going to be weaker
and subject to cracking. Best to keep the top surface moist for about 24
hours, maybe 48 hours on a bigger job. The hotter the temperature, the
longer you should moisten. Concrete sets by a chemical reaction and creates
some hat in the process.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

Do not use the fast set concrete Ive been finishing concrete for my
whole adult life and I couldnt even keep up with the fast set for this
situation. Dont forget its going to take you time to float this to the
drain and it will take some time for you to do it right and look good.
it sounds like you are patching an area that had some surface
problems..make sure you get all the loose material out first I would
even chisel out or cut an nice line around the entire surface edge
(where the old an new are goin to meet) so you have a bit of a lip in
this area because the area where the old and new meet (where the edege
fades to nothing) is the first to fail after the patch...you all have
seen it.....
Paint the area with a bonding adheasive and pour the concrete you want
to use the least amount of water as possible..does this mean the mix
needs to be like gravel no add alittle bit of water at a time and when
you think you are close (stay on the dry side to be safe) let the mix
sit for about 5 min then remix it will probably be wetter than you
thought.
After gettig the mix right pour it in a little at a time the more dense
(less air) you make this patch the stornger it is going to be. Float
the top with a wood float first and then steel trowel if you do not
have these buy a trowel with rounded edges (this will be eaiser to use)
done full with it to much put it down then take a board (2x4nothing
bigger) that will span the patch and ride on the existing concrete to
screed the excess off...go slow. you can use the board to tamp a line
in the concrete from where you want your water to start
flowing..remember it doesnt take much so if you are concerned about
appearance take your time and pretend like you are icing a cake its not
going to dry on you any time soon. once you get the basic shape of
your slope go over it and let it set up a bit for get about the bleed
water you will probably not have any check a thick part and the edge
with your finger to see if it leaves an impression slightly at this
point just go over it a gain lightly cleaning up the trowel marks and
making the final soothing pass..dont work the top to much get it nice
and leave it.
"spalling" is caused by over troweling and wetting new concrete to
soon not by curing methods. if this is in your basement I would not
wory about keeping it wet or even moist and DONOT COVER IT WITH PLASTIC
this will most certianly ensure breakage in an inside environment and
it is not necessary. If you feel inclined to keep it moist make sure it
is hard first and inside I would use a couple of old towels or a sheet
that was wet and rung out well and just lay it on top...
One final thing pay very close attention to the edges where the old and
the new meet for rapid drying and also the lip I mentiond above this is
a very weak spot and if not done right will cause the whole thing to
happen again..


Ray wrote:
I need to patch a 2 inch x 2 feet x 5 feet area of my basement concrete
floor.

I will use the Fast Set Ultra Sakrete, but the web site gives confusing
instructions on how to use it. Some questions:

1. Is this mix thick enough that it can be spread on a slight incline to
drain, or does it seek its own level, like water?

2. There is something in the instructions about water rising, then
evaporating or soaking back into the concrete. What does this mean?

3. There is something about "curing" which is very confusing. The
instructions indicate I should spray the newly laid Sakrete, but it doesn't
say how often.

On Mon, 04 Sep 2006 10:35:04 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 04 Sep 2006 13:23:20 GMT, "Ray"
wrote:

I need to patch a 2 inch x 2 feet x 5 feet area of my basement concrete
floor.

I will use the Fast Set Ultra Sakrete, but the web site gives confusing
instructions on how to use it. Some questions:

1. Is this mix thick enough that it can be spread on a slight incline to
drain, or does it seek its own level, like water?

2. There is something in the instructions about water rising, then
evaporating or soaking back into the concrete. What does this mean?

3. There is something about "curing" which is very confusing. The
instructions indicate I should spray the newly laid Sakrete, but it doesn't
say how often.



What's your hurry? Use the regular concrete mix

Mix it fairly stiff and it will stay where you put it., Proper
hydration only requires that all the powder gets wet. You can tell by
the color change. It can be stiffer than peanut butter.

Water will rise to the top as it sets since the concrete is heavier.

Cure it as slow as you can. I would cover it with plastic and keep it
wet at least a week. Concrete only reaches it's design strength in 28
days. Insufficient curing will cause it to "spall" and the top will
chip off.

On the tour of the Panama Canal in 1971, the guide said that the canal
cement gets harder every year since it was built, about 1905 iirc. He
said that if even a big steel ship hits the walls of a lock, it's the
ship that gets damaged.

Ray writes:

I will use the Fast Set Ultra Sakrete, but the web site gives confusing
instructions on how to use it. Some questions:

You will not be able to get good results your first time. You need
practice.

Thus, be prepared to give it your best, and when it is done, shovel it all
out *before it sets*.

Repeat until you achieve acceptable results.

Cure it as slow as you can. I would cover it with plastic and keep it
wet at least a week. Concrete only reaches it's design strength in 28
days. Insufficient curing will cause it to "spall" and the top will
chip off.

On the tour of the Panama Canal in 1971, the guide said that the canal
cement gets harder every year since it was built, about 1905 iirc. He
said that if even a big steel ship hits the walls of a lock, it's the
ship that gets damaged.


Right. That's the difference between "design strength".
and "ultimate strength". The strength of concrete approaches
ultimate strength more or less asymtopically. It reaches
design strength in 28 days, because they set up the
design-tables by measuring the strength at 28 days.