I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg

Chris

I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg


Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert them right up
against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt. Roots can't get
past solid metal.

Not really frugal cost-wise if you're not a long term resident, but just
about permanent.

I have one of these at my home now if you want me to shoot a photo...

Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R

Currently Riding The "Mother Ship"

Ride a motorcycle in or near NJ?
http://tinyurl.com/5apkg
http://www.youthelate.com

Joe skrev:

Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.

You don't need metal plates. Fabric root barrier is used now to prevent
roots from growing under sidewalks but the problem I see is installing
either.

Here's one: http://www.geo-synthetics.com/Biobar...ot_Fabrics.asp

"Joe" wrote in message
news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg


Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert them right up
against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt. Roots can't get
past solid metal.

Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true, maybe some
copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away from the slab.
Does anyone know if this really works?

Paul

All of the above solutions were considered, and are good, but in my
similiar situation, I choose to redo the patio because it was also the
finished edge of a new addition to the house. I dug a 12" wide by 15"
concrete footing trench along the perimeter of the patio, included
rebar, and I placed foam board in the trench for a vapor seal along the
face, prior to pouring in the concrete. Tree roots seek out water, and
won't penetrate surfaces where there is none. For this work you'll
have to cut tree roots, which may not be so bad because it appears that
the surface roots you have may be seeking after shallow irrigation
water. I'd irrigate infrequently, but when you do deep water the tree
roots to keep them in the ground.

Pavel314 wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message
news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg


Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert them right up
against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt. Roots can't get
past solid metal.

Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true, maybe some
copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away from the slab.
Does anyone know if this really works?

Paul

I seem to be having a problem posting so if this is posted with my
other post sorry but I don think the first one went through.
You know chris this is probably the number 1 reason we are called out
for diveway bids and the fact of the matter is that the fix is very
simply and only needs to be done once a year. Go purchase what is
called a straight edge spade, or long spade picture if you will a flat
shovel that is about 7-8" wide by maybe 13-15" long with a short
handle. Simply run this along the edge of the slab atleast halfway down
more if you can and this cuts off any feeler roots that are heading
twards trouble..once a year is all you need to do it .....If you
already have larger roots you really have no choice but to dig next to
the slab and but them off after doing this do what I have explained
above. We have replaced dozens and dozens of driveways that have been
raised up by roots and we allways cut the roots from 6-12" back from
the slab and instruct the customer as I have above...havent had a call
back yet if you have any doubts talk to a arborist about root growth
patterns and he will tell you this is an effective controll..


cover wrote:
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg

Chris

cover wrote in
:

dangerously close



dangerously close? Those look like fairly mature roots, many, right at the
edge. The part of each of those roots that thins to needle size is well
under the slab already is my guess.

"Pavel314" wrote in
:


"Joe" wrote in message
news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe.
Chainsaws and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective.
The link below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg


Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless
steel. Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert
them right up against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt.
Roots can't get past solid metal.

Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true,
maybe some copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away
from the slab. Does anyone know if this really works?

Paul




Well, alge is a plant right? Here's one case where you kill a plant with
copper. The dark/black alge that grows on roof shingles in more humid
areas.

http://www.askthebuilder.com/printer...ingles .shtml

Root Kill for treating roots in sewer drains is a copper compound. I
used that brand name product for several years semi-annually instead
of calling roto rooter.

On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 19:27:07 -0400, "Pavel314"
wrote:


"Joe" wrote in message
news:1zsDg.3225$5M.1851@trnddc02...
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg


Go to a local metal shop and order some plate aluminum or stainless steel.
Make it 12" "deep" by around 3-4' long and manually insert them right up
against the concrete and even with the top of the dirt. Roots can't get
past solid metal.

Years ago I heard that plants can't stand copper. If that's true, maybe some
copper tubes strategically placed will turn the roots away from the slab.
Does anyone know if this really works?

Paul

"cover" wrote in message
...
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg

Chris
Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep quite
easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.

wrote:
Root Kill for treating roots in sewer drains is a copper compound. I
used that brand name product for several years semi-annually instead
of calling roto rooter.


Rock salt down the sewer is just as effective at a fraction of the
price, works great as long as your underground piping isnt steel, which
very few are.

Most bad lines are terracotta pipe, the trees love all those joints

Ron P wrote:
"cover" wrote in message
...
I've got tree roots from a maple tree growing dangerously close to a
concrete slab and was hoping someone might have an effective way of
dealing with an issue like this short of swinging the axe. Chainsaws
and grinders in my experience haven't been too effective. The link
below shows the problem and thanks very much for any ideas.

http://home.nctv.com/ajns/roots.jpg

Chris
Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep quite
easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.

Here we have the classic example of a common problem with certain trees
that have surface roots. The roots take up moisture and nutrients
that prevent grass or other plants from growing. And they are more
likely to cause problems with sidewalks than other trees that have
deeper roots. Norway maples are well known for this problem.

From the pic, it looks like the roots are already under the slab.
It's also unclear how far from the tree trunk the slab is. Obviously,
the farther away, the better the chance of being able to trench and
install a steel barrier without killing the tree. If you're willing to
do that and don't need anything to grow around the tree, it should
work. If not, the other solution is removing the tree and replacing
it with one that doesn't have surface root problems and is located
farther away.

Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.

Chris

cover said:

Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.


It was a poor choice of a tree to plant so close to a sidewalk (or a poor
choice for a sidewalk location, as it wasn't specified which came first).
In either case, maple roots grow quite horizontally. Severing the roots,
will most likely damage the tree beyond recoverability, or will certainly
disfigure it, probably in a short time.

--
Eggs

-Half the people you know are below average.

Planting a tree is like getting a new puppy. Few of us can visualize what it
will be like at maturity. :-)

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
cover said:

Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.


It was a poor choice of a tree to plant so close to a sidewalk (or a poor
choice for a sidewalk location, as it wasn't specified which came first).
In either case, maple roots grow quite horizontally. Severing the roots,
will most likely damage the tree beyond recoverability, or will certainly
disfigure it, probably in a short time.

--
Eggs

-Half the people you know are below average.

15' from the slab? That's not too close. Ask an arborist to be sure,
but a clean cut along one side of the tree may be OK. At that distance
from the trunk, regardless of tree, one foot or so down into the soil
won't cut the life of an otherwise healthy tree. Our Magnolia, a tree
that doens't mind having it's roots pruned, is closer to the slab than
that and we cut plenty of roots any which way we could before trenching
in the patio edge. Then we put a used brick patio right up to the
trunk on one side. The tree seems to be doing pretty well this summer
of incredible heat. In our case, we replaced the slab patio
altogether. Outside the foundation barrier footer and patio edge, I
cut the roots back and down a couple of feet and gently slope toward
the trunk, trying to avoid major roots as I got closer to the tree. I
then filled in a few yards of pea gravel and a drain pipe system to
draw the patio water away to a deep dry well well away from the patio.
I layered soil fabric over the pea grave, some road base, tamped into
the slope I wanted, and then puzzled in the used brick that I had
accumulated over the previous two years (It's amazing what amounts of
brick is tossed by the roadside in places). I broomed sand into the
cracks between bricks that weren't spaced. Some people recommended
mixing the sand with some portland cement, but I didn't want the grey
look this gives to the brick. If the base is solid, cement isn't
necessary. Along the lawn edge, I put in flush some old 8x8 redwood
railroad ties, but treated ties are easier to find in most places.
This winter the patio drained well enough, the tree seems pretty happy,
the excellent underground drainage of the pea gravel should discourage
larger tree roots from forming there for awhile.


John Lawrence wrote:
Planting a tree is like getting a new puppy. Few of us can visualize what it
will be like at maturity. :-)

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
cover said:

Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.


It was a poor choice of a tree to plant so close to a sidewalk (or a poor
choice for a sidewalk location, as it wasn't specified which came first).
In either case, maple roots grow quite horizontally. Severing the roots,
will most likely damage the tree beyond recoverability, or will certainly
disfigure it, probably in a short time.

--
Eggs

-Half the people you know are below average.

Our softener used salt and the slurry discharged in the main line
didn't stop the roots. Root Kill package was about $5.00 and would be
used in about 1.5 years. I didn't consider it pricey.

On 13 Aug 2006 06:47:34 -0700, "
wrote:


wrote:
Root Kill for treating roots in sewer drains is a copper compound. I
used that brand name product for several years semi-annually instead
of calling roto rooter.


Rock salt down the sewer is just as effective at a fraction of the
price, works great as long as your underground piping isnt steel, which
very few are.

Most bad lines are terracotta pipe, the trees love all those joints

I wondered how something like that might work (a diversionary concept
to draw the roots away from the slab). In the experience of those of
you who have cut these roots, was an axe the best approach?

On 13 Aug 2006 19:33:21 -0700, "Alan" wrote:

15' from the slab? That's not too close. Ask an arborist to be sure,
but a clean cut along one side of the tree may be OK. At that distance
from the trunk, regardless of tree, one foot or so down into the soil
won't cut the life of an otherwise healthy tree. Our Magnolia, a tree
that doens't mind having it's roots pruned, is closer to the slab than
that and we cut plenty of roots any which way we could before trenching
in the patio edge. Then we put a used brick patio right up to the
trunk on one side. The tree seems to be doing pretty well this summer
of incredible heat. In our case, we replaced the slab patio
altogether. Outside the foundation barrier footer and patio edge, I
cut the roots back and down a couple of feet and gently slope toward
the trunk, trying to avoid major roots as I got closer to the tree. I
then filled in a few yards of pea gravel and a drain pipe system to
draw the patio water away to a deep dry well well away from the patio.
I layered soil fabric over the pea grave, some road base, tamped into
the slope I wanted, and then puzzled in the used brick that I had
accumulated over the previous two years (It's amazing what amounts of
brick is tossed by the roadside in places). I broomed sand into the
cracks between bricks that weren't spaced. Some people recommended
mixing the sand with some portland cement, but I didn't want the grey
look this gives to the brick. If the base is solid, cement isn't
necessary. Along the lawn edge, I put in flush some old 8x8 redwood
railroad ties, but treated ties are easier to find in most places.
This winter the patio drained well enough, the tree seems pretty happy,
the excellent underground drainage of the pea gravel should discourage
larger tree roots from forming there for awhile.


John Lawrence wrote:
Planting a tree is like getting a new puppy. Few of us can visualize what it
will be like at maturity. :-)

"Eggs Zachtly" wrote in message
...
cover said:

Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:17:54 -0400, "Ron P" wrote:

Chris
Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep quite
easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.

What does one of these trenchers do when they encounter roots, Ron?
(kick up, cut through ???) thanks

cover wrote:
I wondered how something like that might work (a diversionary concept
to draw the roots away from the slab). In the experience of those of
you who have cut these roots, was an axe the best approach?

Don't try a chainsaw. The blade will last only about 15 seconds until
it is totally dull. That happens even if the dirt is dug out fairly
well. All it takes is a momentary touch to kill the blade.

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:05:34 -0400, Stubby
wrote:

Don't try a chainsaw. The blade will last only about 15 seconds until
it is totally dull. That happens even if the dirt is dug out fairly
well. All it takes is a momentary touch to kill the blade.

Yeah, I was thinking about that one too where my chainsaw is
concerned. Another killer incidentally is railroad ties. :-) I
was thinking about using an axe (though they can be spooky devils to
work with).

cover wrote:
Many thanks to all of you for your replies. Appreciate that very
much. The tree is a fairly healthy size maple tree and the trunk is
approximately 15' from the slab. A trencher just might be the easiest
approach. Any thoughts on using an axe versus some sort of root saw
if a person doesn't want to bring great harm to the tree. It's fairly
mature and I hate to damage it too significantly but at the same time,
have property to protect.


If you have a sawzall, you can buy a pruning blade for about $6. They
are about 12-15" long and will go through dirt and roots like butter. I
used one to cut the roots off a stump so I could pull it up and it was
the easiest stump I have ever removed.

--
Art

cover wrote:

What does one of these trenchers do when they encounter roots, Ron?
(kick up, cut through ???) thanks

You'll see some wood chips in the dirt it spits out. Other than that you
don't even notice there's a root there.

--
Art

Guess it depends on size of root, and how sharp your trencher is. I cut
through allot of roots, except for some big ones. Some knotted up roots it
will not get through.
I used the walk behind. Maybe the one you sit on has less of a problem.

--
remove one of the @'s unless you are a spammer.
"cover" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:17:54 -0400, "Ron P" wrote:

Chris
Have you considered using a trench digger for burying cables? A trench
digger can make a trench about 3 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches deep
quite
easily. Put whatever barrier you want in there and back fill.

What does one of these trenchers do when they encounter roots, Ron?
(kick up, cut through ???) thanks