The new tile floor in my kitchen with 14 inch tiles are clicking. We pulled
up a few and reset with more mortar but more are clicking and I think a few
of the originals.

I am afraid the subfloor (two 5/8" plywood sheets) moves too much. It has
been suggested that I pull up the bad tiles and then screw the floor to the
joists. Will this be sufficient? The floor does seem to move when my 250
lbs walks on it - the movement can not be seen from the basement - it is not
the joists. Would additional cross bracing installed from below help?
Would additional wood from below then screw up and pull down work (plywood
does not hold screws well. I do have full access from below.

On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 10:22:15 -0400, "new"
wrote:

The new tile floor in my kitchen with 14 inch tiles are clicking. We pulled
up a few and reset with more mortar but more are clicking and I think a few
of the originals.

I am afraid the subfloor (two 5/8" plywood sheets) moves too much. It has
been suggested that I pull up the bad tiles and then screw the floor to the
joists. Will this be sufficient? The floor does seem to move when my 250
lbs walks on it - the movement can not be seen from the basement - it is not
the joists. Would additional cross bracing installed from below help?
Would additional wood from below then screw up and pull down work (plywood
does not hold screws well. I do have full access from below.


I think you have hit on the best solution. Pull up the tiles and
screw the boards down every 10 inches to the joists. No cross bracing
is necessary.

Then smear on lots of the most 'expensive' tile mortar you can find.
The expensive stuff doesn't dry out like the cheap stuff.

That should hold it in place for 20 or 30 years.

new wrote:
The new tile floor in my kitchen with 14 inch tiles are clicking. We
pulled up a few and reset with more mortar but more are clicking and
I think a few of the originals.

I am afraid the subfloor (two 5/8" plywood sheets) moves too much.
It has been suggested that I pull up the bad tiles and then screw the
floor to the joists. Will this be sufficient? The floor does seem
to move when my 250 lbs walks on it - the movement can not be seen
from the basement - it is not the joists. Would additional cross
bracing installed from below help? Would additional wood from below
then screw up and pull down work (plywood does not hold screws well.
I do have full access from below.

Do all the tiles "click"? If no and you rap on clicking ones with your
knuckle do you get a hollow sound? If so your problem is insufficient
mortar/mastic, not sub-floor.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
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LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
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JimL wrote:
Then smear on lots of the most 'expensive' tile mortar you can find.
The expensive stuff doesn't dry out like the cheap stuff.

If you're talking about mortar as opposed to mastic you better hope and pray
the mortar dries. Mastic too for that matter...


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 16:20:53 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

JimL wrote:
Then smear on lots of the most 'expensive' tile mortar you can find.
The expensive stuff doesn't dry out like the cheap stuff.

If you're talking about mortar as opposed to mastic you better hope and pray
the mortar dries. Mastic too for that matter...

No.


"To get a stronger and a more pliable bond, use an acrylic fortifier
in place of the water. First pour two gallons of the fortifier into
the bucket and then gradually add one bag of mortar to the acrylic.
Use a mixer attached to a drill to stir the mortar. "

JimL wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 16:20:53 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

JimL wrote:
Then smear on lots of the most 'expensive' tile mortar you can
find. The expensive stuff doesn't dry out like the cheap stuff.

If you're talking about mortar as opposed to mastic you better hope
and pray the mortar dries. Mastic too for that matter...

No.


"To get a stronger and a more pliable bond, use an acrylic fortifier
in place of the water. First pour two gallons of the fortifier into
the bucket and then gradually add one bag of mortar to the acrylic.
Use a mixer attached to a drill to stir the mortar. "

It dries (sets) too.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico