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Default Tank fittings help

In the line from the well to the tank, there are a bunch of metal
fittings and modifications that have seen better days (Three splices in
the 1in plastic as well coming into the cellar wall from the pump!),
and I strongly suspect they're galvanized as well.
A "Tank Tee" would be fine as a replacement, but the line, after coming
out of the wall, goes 90 degrees to an oversized fitting having, at the
first third a single 1/8in tap (plugged), and at the second third,
three 1/4in taps 90 degrees apart, one to the pressure switch, one to
the presure gauge, and one plugged. The outlet of this fitting goes to
a tee to the house, and then the tank.
This setup puts the tank connection parallel to the wall, and half the
distance away from the wall that turning the tank 90 degrees, and
having the outlet perpendicular to the wall, but further out into the
cellar, as putting a "tank tee" would do.
I've been looking for such a replacement fitting, and suspect it's also
a one-way valve, as the pump is a submersible.
Any pointers on where I might find a fitting like this?

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Default Tank fittings help


wrote:
In the line from the well to the tank, there are a bunch of metal
fittings and modifications that have seen better days (Three splices in
the 1in plastic as well coming into the cellar wall from the pump!),
and I strongly suspect they're galvanized as well.
A "Tank Tee" would be fine as a replacement, but the line, after coming
out of the wall, goes 90 degrees to an oversized fitting having, at the
first third a single 1/8in tap (plugged), and at the second third,
three 1/4in taps 90 degrees apart, one to the pressure switch, one to
the presure gauge, and one plugged. The outlet of this fitting goes to
a tee to the house, and then the tank.
This setup puts the tank connection parallel to the wall, and half the
distance away from the wall that turning the tank 90 degrees, and
having the outlet perpendicular to the wall, but further out into the
cellar, as putting a "tank tee" would do.
I've been looking for such a replacement fitting, and suspect it's also
a one-way valve, as the pump is a submersible.
Any pointers on where I might find a fitting like this?


Not suire just what you are up to from the description. Sounds like
you want to reposition the tank. In any case.

Faced with such a set-up my solution has always been to just trash the
whole mess and replace with a sensible pipe job. There comes a point
where it is a losing proposition to keep fooling with a botch job.

You only need one T somewhere in the 'in' line to feed the house. Then
some fittings, usually at the tank, that have the 1/8" taps for the
gauge, pressure switch, drain valve. The best solution there is a
standard manifold that has 2 1/8 taps, 1 3/4" IPT for the drain valve,
another 3/4" or 1" for the overload valve. Somewhere before the house
take-off you also need a shut-off valve. That manifold is usually
installed right at the tank in/out fitting.

There is no need at all for "one-way" valve (check valve) as the pump
itself has one.

Harry K

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Default Tank fittings help


Harry K wrote:
wrote:
In the line from the well to the tank, there are a bunch of metal
fittings and modifications that have seen better days (Three splices in
the 1in plastic as well coming into the cellar wall from the pump!),
and I strongly suspect they're galvanized as well.
A "Tank Tee" would be fine as a replacement, but the line, after coming
out of the wall, goes 90 degrees to an oversized fitting having, at the
first third a single 1/8in tap (plugged), and at the second third,
three 1/4in taps 90 degrees apart, one to the pressure switch, one to
the presure gauge, and one plugged. The outlet of this fitting goes to
a tee to the house, and then the tank.
This setup puts the tank connection parallel to the wall, and half the
distance away from the wall that turning the tank 90 degrees, and
having the outlet perpendicular to the wall, but further out into the
cellar, as putting a "tank tee" would do.
I've been looking for such a replacement fitting, and suspect it's also
a one-way valve, as the pump is a submersible.
Any pointers on where I might find a fitting like this?


Not suire just what you are up to from the description. Sounds like
you want to reposition the tank. In any case.

Faced with such a set-up my solution has always been to just trash the
whole mess and replace with a sensible pipe job. There comes a point
where it is a losing proposition to keep fooling with a botch job.

You only need one T somewhere in the 'in' line to feed the house. Then
some fittings, usually at the tank, that have the 1/8" taps for the
gauge, pressure switch, drain valve. The best solution there is a
standard manifold that has 2 1/8 taps, 1 3/4" IPT for the drain valve,
another 3/4" or 1" for the overload valve. Somewhere before the house
take-off you also need a shut-off valve. That manifold is usually
installed right at the tank in/out fitting.

There is no need at all for "one-way" valve (check valve) as the pump
itself has one.

Harry K

You're probably right about re-doing the entire setup. Unfortunately,
the standard manifolds I've seen, called "Tank Tee's," have the pump
inlet/house outlet flow at a right angle to the tank. That'll set that
flow line about a foot or more further from the wall, and in to the
basement than the current setup.
Oh well.
Nobody said this would be easy.
Thanks for the help.

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Default Tank fittings help


wrote:
Harry K wrote:
wrote:
In the line from the well to the tank, there are a bunch of metal
fittings and modifications that have seen better days (Three splices in
the 1in plastic as well coming into the cellar wall from the pump!),
and I strongly suspect they're galvanized as well.
A "Tank Tee" would be fine as a replacement, but the line, after coming
out of the wall, goes 90 degrees to an oversized fitting having, at the
first third a single 1/8in tap (plugged), and at the second third,
three 1/4in taps 90 degrees apart, one to the pressure switch, one to
the presure gauge, and one plugged. The outlet of this fitting goes to
a tee to the house, and then the tank.
This setup puts the tank connection parallel to the wall, and half the
distance away from the wall that turning the tank 90 degrees, and
having the outlet perpendicular to the wall, but further out into the
cellar, as putting a "tank tee" would do.
I've been looking for such a replacement fitting, and suspect it's also
a one-way valve, as the pump is a submersible.
Any pointers on where I might find a fitting like this?


Not suire just what you are up to from the description. Sounds like
you want to reposition the tank. In any case.

Faced with such a set-up my solution has always been to just trash the
whole mess and replace with a sensible pipe job. There comes a point
where it is a losing proposition to keep fooling with a botch job.

You only need one T somewhere in the 'in' line to feed the house. Then
some fittings, usually at the tank, that have the 1/8" taps for the
gauge, pressure switch, drain valve. The best solution there is a
standard manifold that has 2 1/8 taps, 1 3/4" IPT for the drain valve,
another 3/4" or 1" for the overload valve. Somewhere before the house
take-off you also need a shut-off valve. That manifold is usually
installed right at the tank in/out fitting.

There is no need at all for "one-way" valve (check valve) as the pump
itself has one.

Harry K

You're probably right about re-doing the entire setup. Unfortunately,
the standard manifolds I've seen, called "Tank Tee's," have the pump
inlet/house outlet flow at a right angle to the tank. That'll set that
flow line about a foot or more further from the wall, and in to the
basement than the current setup.
Oh well.
Nobody said this would be easy.
Thanks for the help.


A few pipe fittings, some straight pipe pieces and the tank can be
positioned any where and any orientation you want provided there isn't
a space constraint in that it can only go in one way. I wasn't happy
with were the installers put my tank in the basement so moved both it
and the water heater. Now I will get to move at least the tank again
as my planning didn't allow for changing out the water heater - it is
behind the tank in a corner - great planning...not.

Harry K

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