Preparing to install laminate flooring in my bedroom this weekend, I lifted
up some of the carpet to see how close to the concrete slab floor the bottom
of the moulding is, and the bottom of the moulding is almost right down to
the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the bottom of the
moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid having to remove
and then reinstall the moulding. Being lazy and liking shortcuts, I gotta
ask - after I get the carpet, padding, and tackstrips up, what'd be wrong
with leaving the existing moulding where it is (it looks fine and there's a
really nice caulk job between the top of the moulding and the sheetrock
wall) and just using a piece of quarter round moulding attached to the
existing moulding to cover the expansion gap between the laminate and the
moulding?

What's the "best" choice on the correct color for the quarter round - white
to match the wall, or a stain that approximates the flooring?

Thanks!

Texas Yankee wrote:
Preparing to install laminate flooring in my bedroom this weekend,...
Being lazy and liking shortcuts, I gotta ask - after I get the carpet,
padding, and tackstrips up, what'd be wrong with leaving the existing
moulding where it is (it looks fine and there's a really nice caulk job
between the top of the moulding and the sheetrock wall) and just using
a piece of quarter round moulding attached to the existing moulding to
cover the expansion gap between the laminate and the moulding?

Nothing, except I would use shoe molding instead of 1/4 round.

What's the "best" choice on the correct color for the quarter round -
white to match the wall, or a stain that approximates the flooring?

Depends on what you like, I would paint it to match the base molding.

Texas Yankee, 6/20/2006, 3:01:48 PM, wCXlg.14491$RU4.5939@trnddc03
wrote:

Preparing to install laminate flooring in my bedroom this weekend, I
lifted up some of the carpet to see how close to the concrete slab
floor the bottom of the moulding is, and the bottom of the moulding
is almost right down to the slab - I was hoping to have enough
clearance under the bottom of the moulding to slide the laminate
under the moulding and avoid having to remove and then reinstall the
moulding. Being lazy and liking shortcuts, I gotta ask - after I get
the carpet, padding, and tackstrips up, what'd be wrong with leaving
the existing moulding where it is (it looks fine and there's a really
nice caulk job between the top of the moulding and the sheetrock
wall) and just using a piece of quarter round moulding attached to
the existing moulding to cover the expansion gap between the laminate
and the moulding?

Nothing, this is how many people do it. However, given the chance to
do it again I would have removed the baseboard. I think it looks
better and cleaner that way. It also eliminates the chance of a gap
due to the quarter-round not being wide enough.

What's the "best" choice on the correct color for the quarter round -
white to match the wall, or a stain that approximates the flooring?

I would choose the same color as the floor, but it is all your taste.

I sure hope you have read the installation instructions. Sounds like you
are winging it. You need a moisture barrier and there are other issues...


"Texas Yankee" wrote in message
news:wCXlg.14491$RU4.5939@trnddc03...
Preparing to install laminate flooring in my bedroom this weekend, I
lifted up some of the carpet to see how close to the concrete slab floor
the bottom of the moulding is, and the bottom of the moulding is almost
right down to the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the
bottom of the moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid
having to remove and then reinstall the moulding. Being lazy and liking
shortcuts, I gotta ask - after I get the carpet, padding, and tackstrips
up, what'd be wrong with leaving the existing moulding where it is (it
looks fine and there's a really nice caulk job between the top of the
moulding and the sheetrock wall) and just using a piece of quarter round
moulding attached to the existing moulding to cover the expansion gap
between the laminate and the moulding?

What's the "best" choice on the correct color for the quarter round -
white to match the wall, or a stain that approximates the flooring?

Thanks!

"Texas Yankee" wrote in message
Being lazy and liking shortcuts, I gotta ask - after I get the carpet,
padding, and tackstrips up, what'd be wrong with leaving the existing
moulding where it is (it looks fine and there's a really nice caulk job
between the top of the moulding and the sheetrock wall) and just using a
piece of quarter round moulding attached to the existing moulding to cover
the expansion gap between the laminate and the moulding?

Caulk? Why is caulk needed? . You can leave it if you desire. If you
remove it, refinish it, and then put it back (it will be a little higher
over the floor) the job will look first rate.


What's the "best" choice on the correct color for the quarter round -
white to match the wall, or a stain that approximates the flooring?

I'd match the existing trim. It is part of hte trim, not part of the floor.

"winging it" ? Well, I'm not a professional, but I think I can handle it -
I already have the moisture barrier - I purchased it when I purchased the
flooring - and the install instructions seem pretty straightforward -
oriented to a do-it-yourselfer versus a professional - the laminate and
moisture barrier was only a few hundred (small room) - worst case, I screw
it up and I get a pro in to do it after I do the prep - best case, the job
goes fine and the other three bedrooms are a lot easier for me.

Thanks for the help everyone!

"Art" wrote in message
nk.net...
I sure hope you have read the installation instructions. Sounds like you
are winging it. You need a moisture barrier and there are other issues...


"Texas Yankee" wrote in message
news:wCXlg.14491$RU4.5939@trnddc03...
Preparing to install laminate flooring in my bedroom this weekend, I
lifted up some of the carpet to see how close to the concrete slab floor
the bottom of the moulding is, and the bottom of the moulding is almost
right down to the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the
bottom of the moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid
having to remove and then reinstall the moulding. Being lazy and liking
shortcuts, I gotta ask - after I get the carpet, padding, and tackstrips
up, what'd be wrong with leaving the existing moulding where it is (it
looks fine and there's a really nice caulk job between the top of the
moulding and the sheetrock wall) and just using a piece of quarter round
moulding attached to the existing moulding to cover the expansion gap
between the laminate and the moulding?

What's the "best" choice on the correct color for the quarter round -
white to match the wall, or a stain that approximates the flooring?

Thanks!

"Texas Yankee" wrote in message
newsNYlg.2735$DI2.1299@trnddc05...
"winging it" ? Well, I'm not a professional, but I think I can handle
it -

Just in case you don' tknow already. Use a CARBIDE blade for cutting. This
is tough stuff and ruins a steel blade very fast.

"Texas Yankee" wrote in message
news:wCXlg.14491$RU4.5939@trnddc03...
Preparing to install laminate flooring in my bedroom this weekend, I
lifted up some of the carpet to see how close to the concrete slab floor
the bottom of the moulding is, and the bottom of the moulding is almost
right down to the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the
bottom of the moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid
having to remove and then reinstall the moulding. Being lazy and liking
shortcuts, I gotta ask - after I get the carpet, padding, and tackstrips
up, what'd be wrong with leaving the existing moulding where it is (it
looks fine and there's a really nice caulk job between the top of the
moulding and the sheetrock wall) and just using a piece of quarter round
moulding attached to the existing moulding to cover the expansion gap
between the laminate and the moulding?

I would guess that 90% of the laminate and other floating floors are done
this way. It is the same method that I used for my floating hardwood floor.
Also, I used a plain painted quarter round. I think it looks better and is
certainly cheaper than stained wood or wood look alike.

Darrell

the bottom of the moulding is almost right down to
the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the bottom of the
moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid having to remove
and then reinstall the moulding.

by the way... there is a special type of saw that can be used to
undercut the moulding flush with the wall. it is designed specially
for your specific problem. You might be able to rent one if it's not
in the budget. I like your solution but just wanted to say.... here is
a link to the type of saw I mean:

http://www.craintools.com/specialtysaw.htm

On 20 Jun 2006 19:51:12 -0700, Lawrence wrote:

the bottom of the moulding is almost right down to
the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the bottom of the
moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid having to remove
and then reinstall the moulding.

by the way... there is a special type of saw that can be used to
undercut the moulding flush with the wall. it is designed specially
for your specific problem. You might be able to rent one if it's not
in the budget. I like your solution but just wanted to say.... here is
a link to the type of saw I mean:

http://www.craintools.com/specialtysaw.htm

How do you plan on getting it under the base ?....If it is a snap-loc
laminate which most are the plank will have to be at around 45 deg. to
interlock...never get it under both baseboards

Peter Griffin wrote:
On 20 Jun 2006 19:51:12 -0700, Lawrence wrote:

the bottom of the moulding is almost right down to
the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the bottom of the
moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid having to remove
and then reinstall the moulding.

by the way... there is a special type of saw that can be used to
undercut the moulding flush with the wall. it is designed specially
for your specific problem. You might be able to rent one if it's not
in the budget. I like your solution but just wanted to say.... here is
a link to the type of saw I mean:

http://www.craintools.com/specialtysaw.htm

How do you plan on getting it under the base ?....If it is a snap-loc
laminate which most are the plank will have to be at around 45 deg. to
interlock...never get it under both baseboards

The saw does exist, however, which is the only point I am making. I am
not an expert in the field but here is one idea: The flooring can be
fit under the baseboard on one side of the room. Then, when you get
to the other side of the room you could rip the edge off of the last
plank then slide it under the other baseboard. The baseboard would
hold it in place and it would also be face nailed. There are probably
other ways. I like the OP's solution and have previously said so. I
just wanted to point out the neat tool which is apparently designed
specifically for this problem.

Lawrence

Lawrence wrote:
Peter Griffin wrote:
On 20 Jun 2006 19:51:12 -0700, Lawrence wrote:

the bottom of the moulding is almost right down to
the slab - I was hoping to have enough clearance under the bottom of the
moulding to slide the laminate under the moulding and avoid having to remove
and then reinstall the moulding.

by the way... there is a special type of saw that can be used to
undercut the moulding flush with the wall. it is designed specially
for your specific problem. You might be able to rent one if it's not
in the budget. I like your solution but just wanted to say.... here is
a link to the type of saw I mean:

http://www.craintools.com/specialtysaw.htm

How do you plan on getting it under the base ?....If it is a snap-loc
laminate which most are the plank will have to be at around 45 deg. to
interlock...never get it under both baseboards

The saw does exist, however, which is the only point I am making. I am
not an expert in the field but here is one idea: The flooring can be
fit under the baseboard on one side of the room. Then, when you get
to the other side of the room you could rip the edge off of the last
plank then slide it under the other baseboard. The baseboard would
hold it in place and it would also be face nailed. There are probably
other ways. I like the OP's solution and have previously said so. I
just wanted to point out the neat tool which is apparently designed
specifically for this problem.

Lawrence

I install laminate flooring I am located in Moorhead, MN There are a
couple different ways to solve your moulding issues. You can but up to
the existing baseboard (leaving a 1/4" gap or manufacturers recommended
space of course) and then put quarter round on OR you can take out the
baseboard and reinstall it. If you take out the base board in a room
and it 45's with another piece of baseboard that is not going to be
over the laminate be forewarned you will have to cut 5/16 or so off the
bottom of the baseboard so that the heights of the mouldings come into
check. Laminate is a job that takes a little know how and a little
experience working with it a time or two. The stores make it look
really easy! I think there is something to remember not discounting
anyones ability. You get what you pay for!

If you have any questions or are around Fargo Moorhead and need someone
to install laminate for you drop me a line I am more than willing to
help! James ~ Paragon Renovations ~ Moorhead, MN ~