This new Hi-Efficency Rheem furnace and A/C was supposed to save me from
problems like this...... :^(

Came home from work today, and my month-old system was blowing warm. 93+
furnace, 13 SEER A/C, all new hardware, has been working fine, including
over the 90-degree-plus weekend just completed. Inside blower runs, no error
messages on fancy thermostat, no tripped breakers or open fuses. Outside box
does NOT spin, and no temp difference in the 2 lines leading from inside to
outside. Compressor lockup? Coolant leak? Something obvious I am missing?

Yes, I will be calling vendor in the A.M., assuming I don't sweat to death
overnight, or the night monsters don't carry me off through the open windows
tonight.

Sigh. Ain't nothing easy....

aem sends...

Outside box does NOT spin, and no temp
difference in the 2 lines leading from inside to outside. Compressor
lockup? Coolant leak? Something obvious I am missing?

I don't think a compressor failure or refrigerant leak will stop the
condensor fan (outside unit) from running although I suppose there could be
some with fancy electronics that tell it to shut down. So two likely
possibilities: No power to the condensing unit (despite your checks). Or
the thermostat isn't telling it to turn on whether due to a problem with
the 'stat or settings or the control wiring to the condensing unit.

ameijers wrote:
This new Hi-Efficency Rheem furnace and A/C was supposed to save me from
problems like this...... :^(

Came home from work today, and my month-old system was blowing warm. 93+
furnace, 13 SEER A/C, all new hardware, has been working fine, including
over the 90-degree-plus weekend just completed. Inside blower runs, no error
messages on fancy thermostat, no tripped breakers

Tripped breakers aren't always apparent. Even if you're convinced
they're not tripped, I would move them to the "off" position and then
back on.

Beyond that, you should probably leave it until the a.m. so your vendor
has no excuse from the warranty.

It might just be a bad contactor or open circuit on the low-voltage side
(i.e. a quick fix).

or open fuses. Outside box
does NOT spin, and no temp difference in the 2 lines leading from inside to
outside. Compressor lockup? Coolant leak? Something obvious I am missing?

Yes, I will be calling vendor in the A.M., assuming I don't sweat to death
overnight, or the night monsters don't carry me off through the open windows
tonight.

Sigh. Ain't nothing easy....

aem sends...



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Steve Kraus writes:

I don't think a compressor failure or refrigerant leak will stop the
condensor fan (outside unit) from running although I suppose there
could be some with fancy electronics that tell it to shut down.

Plain old unfancy units have pressure switches that shut the unit down from
overpressure on the discharge side, underpressure on the suction side,
and/or overtemperature.

Look for a reset button on your compressor.

ameijers wrote:
. Outside box does NOT spin, and no temp
difference in the 2 lines leading from inside to outside. Compressor
lockup? Coolant leak?

Is that the red (Toyota) coolant or the green (Prestone) brand?

"ameijers" wrote in message
...
This new Hi-Efficency Rheem furnace and A/C was supposed to save me from
problems like this...... :^(

(snip)
Thanks for all the input, guys. I nailed a note to HVAC contractor's door on
the way to work, told him where I hid the key. When I got out of the morning
meetings, there was a message on my voicemail that they had already been out
and fixed it. 'Loose wire', no other details. Nothing obvious to my eyeball
exam, so I suspect it was a terminal on one of the control boards inside the
pretty metal boxes. I suppose if they didn't snug a screw down, thermal
cycling could have made it walk off. Or maybe the mice were doing
chinups....



aem sends....

Richard J Kinchwrote:
Plain old unfancy units have pressure switches that shut the unit down
from overpressure on the discharge side, underpressure on the suction
side, and/or overtemperature.

Shut down the whole unit? Good to know. Thought only the compressor would
shut off.

Steve Kraus wrote:
Richard J Kinchwrote:
Plain old unfancy units have pressure switches that shut the unit
down from overpressure on the discharge side, underpressure on the
suction side, and/or overtemperature.

Shut down the whole unit? Good to know. Thought only the compressor
would shut off.

Most 'unfancy' units don't have high pressure / low pressure switches,
but instead rely on the compressor overtemperature switch.

Travis Jordan writes:

Steve Kraus wrote:
Richard J Kinchwrote:
Plain old unfancy units have pressure switches that shut the unit
down from overpressure on the discharge side, underpressure on the
suction side, and/or overtemperature.

Shut down the whole unit? Good to know. Thought only the compressor
would shut off.

Most 'unfancy' units don't have high pressure / low pressure switches,
but instead rely on the compressor overtemperature switch.

Some do, and the OP was looking for easy things to rule out.